window module wiring, 98 chevy crew cab
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=120668
Printed Date: May 01, 2024 at 7:28 PM
Topic: window module wiring, 98 chevy crew cab
Posted By: hawks
Subject: window module wiring, 98 chevy crew cab
Date Posted: March 11, 2010 at 9:49 PM
I have a four door truck I want to install 2 DEI 530t window modules in. The install looks pretty simple just wired in between the window motor and the switch. For the passenger and two rear windows can I wire the modules up between the master control panel switches on the drivers door or should I extend the wires and run them to each individual door so they are wired between the door switch on each door and the motors?
Replies:
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 12, 2010 at 2:41 AM
First check the wiring, Japanese vehicles tend to use DATA signalling so you will need to go to the motors. If your front switches put out 12V+ each way on motor up and down then you're OK, but you won't have one touch up and down for the back windows.
What vehicle?
Posted By: hawks
Date Posted: March 12, 2010 at 11:07 AM
It's a 98 Chevy crew cab.
Posted By: Mark Mizenko
Date Posted: March 12, 2010 at 3:00 PM
You can get the wires between the drivers door switchs and the motors in the other doors on that vehicle. That will give you one touch from the drivers switches. If you wanted one touch from the switchs on the respective doors, you would need to get a trigger from each swicth run back to the 530. But this is not necessary if you just want one touch from the drivers switchs.
Posted By: hawks
Date Posted: March 12, 2010 at 7:44 PM
Cool thanks for the input....Yeah, I don't care about the one touch on the other windows.
Posted By: hawks
Date Posted: March 16, 2010 at 3:51 PM
I am installing an alrm system ( Clifford 590.2x) in a 98 chev pickup with 2 window modules with 20 amp inline fuses each and a tilt sensor with a 1 amp inline fuse the alarm side of the unit with a 15 amp in line fuse and I will be adding a shock sensor to the rear of the truck so that will be another, at most 15 amp in line fuse for a total of 71 amps. I would like to hear some ideas on how to connect all these power sources. Maybe install a power distribution box from the battery or aux post at the fuse box to connect them or run them all directly to my aux post at the fuse box but what amp fuse should I use. I would love to hear some ideas on the best and easiest way to make these connections. Thank you
Posted By: hawks
Date Posted: March 17, 2010 at 11:11 AM
I am installing an alrm system with 2 window modules with 20 amp inline fuses each and a tilt sensor with a 1 amp inline fuse the alarm side of the unit with a 15 amp in line fuse and I will be adding a shock sensor to the rear of the truck so that will be another, at most 15 amp in line fuse for a total of 71 amps. I would like to hear some ideas on how to connect all these power sources. Maybe install a power distribution box from the battery or aux post at the fuse box to connect them or run them all directly to my aux post at the fuse box but what amp fuse should I use. I want to do a clean and neat installation and would love to hear some ideas on the best and easiest ways to make these connections.
Thank you
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 17, 2010 at 11:18 AM
Fuse everything SEPARATELY, solder the leads together and join to the fuse box constant input.
Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: March 17, 2010 at 11:28 AM
I would run a seperate wire directly from the battery for the window modules and then I would power everything else through one feed (with the individual fuses). Some people like to go right to the battery for alarms in case they ever have problems it is easy to get to the fuse. Some people think that the fuse at the battery is a security risk (wich is silly) and would rather connect under the dash. Either way, you'll have more then enough current for the alarm and sensors as long as you run a dedicated power feed for the window modules. ------------- Kevin Pierson
Posted By: hawks
Date Posted: March 21, 2010 at 10:41 AM
I am now working on the dome light supervision and wanted to know if I should install diodes on the dome supervision and door trigger wires since they both use the door pin wire for activation. I am installing one of the new clifford responder HD systems and for the door locking I am using a DEI451m module because this system comes with two negative outputs. I noticed this model dose not have a 2nd unlock outputeither like the previous responder LC model. Does anyone know if this model is internally wired to already do this feature or do I have to wire something up a specific way? What would be a good way to wire it up to keep the progressive locking if it is possible. I have found the the remote control door lock reciever and door lock relay under the dash if I need to wire into those to make it work.
Thank you
Rod
Posted By: Mark Mizenko
Date Posted: March 22, 2010 at 2:28 PM
There should be a Lt Blue in one of the aux harness for 2Nd Unlock, and Its programmable in the features programming..
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 22, 2010 at 2:53 PM
Mark, last night I emailed Hawks the installation and owners guides for this unit. There's no wiring layout with them but there is a wire list, H1, H2 etc. I previously suggested the light blue but there doesn't appear to be one! Unless it's a typo, can't tell, we'll never get them here. I suggested using an aux as the second unlock output.
Posted By: hawks
Date Posted: March 24, 2010 at 10:53 AM
Howie is right there is no Lt blue wire on the aux harness but the information he sent me does show a 2nd unlock that is programable under menu 1 feature 8. The default option reads 2nd unlock on ignition control after first unlock and option 2 reads 2nd unlock on ignition control with first unlock. My first thought is since there is no wire designated for the 2nd unlock but the programming is still there that the feature may now be hard wired into the unit (clifford 590.2x) and just simply adjustable. The 50.7x model had the Lt Blue 2nd unlock wire and 3 programable options the default being no 2nd unlock. It also doesn't make any sense to me that you would use one of the aux ouputs either since there is feature and option programming for each of those outputs as well.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 24, 2010 at 11:44 AM
I think you will find that that's just double lock/unlock, it's not priority unlock.
Posted By: hawks
Date Posted: April 05, 2010 at 2:30 PM
Okay, I have done a little research and I think I have come up with the right way to wire in priority locking and it would be great if someone could give me a yah or nah and if a nah a little help would be greatly appreciated. Here is a diagrahm of what I think I need to do. From what I can tell my truck sends a positve to lock the doors a negative to unlock drivers door but a positive for 2nd unlock. The clifford 590.2x alarm has 2 negative door lock outputs so I am using a DEI 451m doorlock relay module. 
Also I have a couple of other quick questions. Is it recommended to install a diode when tapping into a (+) 12 volts constant to power a module, relay or other device. For example I tapped into the the constant 12 volts at the headlight switch to power a relay for domelight supervision and will probably do the same for the tilt sensor. I am mounting the tilt sensor on a flat level spot behind the dash bezel. And, what about installing a diode for a (-) door trigger when the same wire is being used for the domelight supervision. Thank you Rod
Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: April 05, 2010 at 3:59 PM
If using the door trigger wire as the dome trigger as well, a diode normlly isn't necessary (know i never used one), also no diode at the 12volts supply for the relay, however i would reccomend connecting it to a better source like say the ignition harness, is it possible to have two different signals controlling the door locking system?, i've never seen that before, i won't reply to that unless someone else confirms this! ------------- COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF.
PSALMS 37:5
Posted By: hawks
Date Posted: April 06, 2010 at 1:27 AM
Hey T&T thanks for your reply. I think your right about the two signals thing I think I misread or wrote my notes down when I was working on it but I will recheck again when it stops raining. The only reason I tapped into the head light switch power was because it is a 10awg wire and the tilt sensor uses less than 1 amp and a domelight supervision relay probably uses even less than that plus neither is in operation when the vehicle is in use or on at the same time so I figured no harm and I don't have to run wire every where. Do you think it could cause any problems? Should I change it?
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