2010 mitsubishi lancer, remote start

Does anybody have R/S wiring info for this car? I looked on Bulldog Security's website and no 2010, only 2009. Also, that website states that the factory alarm can only be disarmed with the factory remote. Is this true? If so, if I use only the aftermarket R/S to lock the car, does this arm the alarm. Any input is greatly appreciated.

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Keith

	Battery		YELLOW		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Ignition 1		WHITE		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Accessory 1		LIGHT GREEN		(+)		AT IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Starter 1		ORANGE		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Anti-Theft Type		UNIVERSAL IMMOBILIZER
	Anti-Theft Descript		THE KEY SENDS AN RF SIGNAL TO THE BCM MODULE THROUGH AN ANTENNA LOCATED AROUND THE IGNITION CYLINDER
	Key Sense		RED / WHITE		(OPEN)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Tachometer		GREEN / WHITE		(AC)		AT ECM MODULE ON DRIVER SIDE OF AIRCLEANER ASSEMBLY
	Speed Sense		BROWN / WHITE		(AC)		AT ECM MODULE ON DRIVER SIDE OF AIRCLEANER ASSEMBLY
	Parking Lights		YELLOW & BROWN		(+)		CONNECTOR UNDER FUSEBOX
	Brake Lights		RED		(+)		AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
	Reverse Lights		WHITE/ BLUE		(+)		AT MODULE UNDER DRIVER SIDE DASH
	Horn		GREEN		(-)		AT MODULE UNDER DRIVER SIDE DASH

All Door Trigger Domelight Super YELLOW (-) AT MODULE UNDER DRIVER SIDE DASH LF Latch YELLOW (-) AT CONTROL MODULE UNDER DRIVER SIDE DASH RF Latch GREEN (-) AT CONTROL MODULE UNDER DRIVER SIDE DASH LR Latch RED (-) AT CONTROL MODULE UNDER DRIVER SIDE DASH RR Latch BLACK (-) AT CONTROL MODULE UNDER DRIVER SIDE DASH Trunk Trigger BROWN / WHITE (-) AT MODULE UNDER DRIVER SIDE DASH Parking Lights YELLOW & BROWN (+) CONNECTOR UNDER FUSEBOX   Power Unlock GRAY (-) IN HARNESS IN DRIVERS KICKPANEL TO DOOR PowerLock YELLOW/RED (-) IN HARNESS IN DRIVERS KICKPANEL TO DOOR Driver Mtr Unlock RED (REV) IN HARNESS IN DRIVER KICKPANEL TO DOOR Driver Mtr Lock BLUE (REV) IN HARNESS IN DRIVER KICKPANEL TO DOOR Pas Mtr Unlock RED (REV) IN HARNESS IN PASSENGER KICKPANEL TO DOOR Pas Mtr Lock PINK (REV) IN HARNESS IN PASSENGER KICKPANEL TO DOOR LF Window Up BLUE (REV) AT DRIVER WINDOW CONTROL SWITCH LF Window Dn VIOLET (REV) AT DRIVER WINDOW CONTROL SWITCH RF Window Up BROWN (REV) AT DRIVER WINDOW CONTROL SWITCH RF Window Dn GREEN (REV) AT DRIVER WINDOW CONTROL SWITCH LR Window Up WHITE (REV) AT DRIVER WINDOW CONTROL SWITCH LR Window Dn BLUE (REV) AT DRIVER WINDOW CONTROL SWITCH RR Window Up GRAY (REV) AT DRIVER WINDOW CONTROL SWITCH RR Window Dn YELLOW (REV) AT DRIVER WINDOW CONTROL SWITCH Sunroof Open YELLOW (-) AT SUNROOF CONTROL SWITCH Sunroof Close GREEN (-) AT SUNROOF CONTROL SWITCH   Headlights-Lo VIOLET (-) AT MODULE UNDER DRIVER SIDE DASH Headlights-Hi GREEN (-) AT MODULE UNDER DRIVER SIDE DASH LF Pk Lt Bulb GREEN (+) AT FRONT LEFT HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY RF Pk Lt Bulb WHITE (+) AT FRONT RIGHT HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY LR Pk Lt Bulb YELLOW (+) AT REAR LEFT TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY RR Pk Lt Bulb BROWN (+) AT REAR RIGHT TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY All Hazrd Lights GREEN (-) AT VEHICLE HAZARD SWITCH LF Hazrd Bulb RED (+) AT FRONT LEFT TURN SIGNAL ASSEMBLY RF Hazrd Bulb LIGHT BLUE (+) AT FRONT RIGHT TURN SIGNAL ASSEMBLY LR Hazrd Bulb GREEN (+) AT REAR LEFT TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY RR Hazrd Bulb WHITE (+) AT REAR LEFT TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY Parking Brake LIGHT GREEN (-) A VEHICLE PARKING BRAKE Trnk Release GRAY (REV) AT VEHICLE FUSEBOX

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Lectric Guy

Test to see if you can  disable the factory alarm:

Open the diver's window, thenlock the car door using the factory FOB. 

Wait 30 seconds, then reach in and unlock the car from inside and open the door; Factory alarm should sound.

Put your key in the drivers door key cylinder, and try turning the key cylinder to disarm the alarm.  If it does disarm, you will likely find the

wire associated with the key cylinder in the driver's kick panel area--tests as a ground when you turn the key cylinder.

If you can't disarm the factory alarm, you have 2 options.  

1.) Carry a seperate key FOB for Remote Start.   You would lock/arm and unlock/disarm with the factory remote.

2.) You could disable the factory alarm by grounding the  factory hood pin so the factory alarm never arms.  If you choose to do this with the hood pin, you definately want to cut the hood pin wire and ground it, then wire the remote start negative shutdown to use the factory hood pin; this allows the safety shutdown feature of the remote start to be functional.  You could consider an Alarm/Remote Start combo if you still want a functional alarm.

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Lectric Guy

Regarding option 1, Do you know if this car will sound alarm if it's started? I did a Honda Accord once and it would sound the alarm as soon as it was started by remote. Had to disarm before start. If this is the case with the Mitsubishi, I'll have to do something else. Thanks.

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Keith

DLPK will give you door locks and factory alarm control (arm,disarm).  Just an FYI

2010 is the same as 2009.

Are you doing only a remote starter, or an aftermarket alarm too?

On that car, regardless of whether or not you have the F.A.S.T. Key option, the car's factory keyless entry is built into the key that you already carry with you, so there is little point in connecting aftermarket keyless entry.

I just do a one-button starter on those cars (usually Prestige APS901), and that's it.

All you really need to connect is the following:

1. Constant, ignition, starter, and accessory at the keyswitch.

2. Brake at brake switch.

3. Two separate positive parking light wires at plug at bottom of driver's fuse box. (Diode isolate parking light output from remote starter.)

4. I've never connected tach on these cars, but I suppose you could if you wanted to.

5. Bypass module. The only thing on the market is the Fortin PATS-MITSUBISHI-2, which, since you're in Canada, will require the Mitsubishi dealer's scan tool for programming. Or, get a regular key-in-the-box universal bypass, and pay the dealer (or locksmith) to make another key.

Regarding option 1, Do you know if this car will sound alarm if it's started? I did a Honda Accord once and it would sound the alarm as soon as it was started by remote. Had to disarm before start. If this is the case with the Mitsubishi, I'll have to do something else. Thanks.

  The vehicle will disarm with ignition for remote start.  Option 1 is what Chris accurately describes.

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Lectric Guy

It is a 2-way R/S, Keyless Entry System that I currently have in a Mazda 6. I would prefer to use the aftermarket remote for everything (distance and confirmation are nice to have). I can also check to see if I locked my car just by looking at the remote. Maybe I've been spoiled with this, but I really would like to use all of it's features. The bypass I have (also currently in the Mazda) is a generic key in the box type.

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Keith