Tach wire on 99 Chevy Silvardo

       ITEM      |     WIRE COLOR     |POL|       WIRE LOCATION        |
|              12V|red                 |+ |ignition harness            |
|          STARTER|yellow              |+ |ignition harness            |
|        IGNITION|pink               |+ |ignition harness            |
| SECOND IGNITION|white               |+ |ignition harness            |
|        ACCESSORY|orange              |+ |ignition harness            |
|       POWER LOCK|lt. blue            |+ |brown plug at BCM *1        |
|     POWER UNLOCK|white               |+ |brown plug at BCM *1        |
|       LOCK MOTOR|gray               |   |drivers kick panel          |
|     UNLOCK MOTOR|tan                 |   |drivers kick panel          |
|    DISARM DEFEAT|tan/black           |   |passengers kick panel       |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|brown               |   |lt. blue plug at BCM *1     |
| PARKING LIGHTS -|white               |   |lt. blue plug at BCM *1     |
|       HEADLIGHTS|white               |+ |lt. blue plug at BCM *1     |
|     DOOR TRIGGER|*2                  |- |BCM *1                      |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|lt.green            |- |drivers kick *4             |
|       TACHOMETER|white *5            |   |ECM *3                      |
|      SPEED SENSE|dk.GREEN / WHITE      |   |ECM *3                      |
|       BRAKE WIRE|white               |+ |brake pedal switch          |
|     HORN TRIGGER|black               |- |brown plug at BCM *1        |
|           WIPERS|                    |   |                            |
| LF WINDOW UP/DN|blue   -   brown    |A |drivers door switch        |
| RF WINDOW UP/DN|blue   -   brown    |A |passenger door switch       |
| LR WINDOW UP/DN|                    |   |                            |
| RR WINDOW UP/DN|                    |   |                            |


Notes:
NOTE: If you have a 1999 Classic Pickup, refer to the 1998 Full Size Pickup. NOTE: This vehicle has the passlock II immobilizer system that, when adding a remote start, must be interfaced with. Use DEI part 555t or 555L. *1 The BCM is located behind the drivers side of the dash. The plugs on the BCM face towards the rear of the vehicle. The parking lights are in pin A5 and the headlights are in pin A11. *2 Use tan for the drivers door located in pin B4 of the purple plug, and for the passenger door it will be a orange in pin B2 in the purple plug or dk.blue/white in pin B11 of the lt.blue plug, must diode isolate these wires. *3 ECM is located near the battery, down low, between the fender and the fan under the black plastic cover. On the 4.3L, the tach wire is at pin 20 in the connector labeled 'red', and VSS wire is at pin 3 in the connector labeled 'black'. On the 4.8L, 5.3L, and 6.0L, the tach wire is located at pin 10 in the 'red' connector, and VSS wire is located in pin 50 of the 'red' connector. *4 Also found in the purple plug of the BCM. *5 Diesel wait to start wire is dk. blue (-) located at the instrument cluster 'see direct fax document #1090'.

Did you install an immobilizer bypass?

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

I didnt install a immobilizer because I dont belive it has one. I tried to start it with keys in the ignition and it still did not start. I also have the wiring diagram but cant find that wire, even went to the coil it self and had no luck. The truck should start if the keys are in the ignition right? And I mean leaving the keys in and then starting it from the remote.

This vehicle has passlock II. There is no actual chip in the key it self. There is a resistance when the key cylinder is turned. If the bcm doesn't see the resistance the fuel supply is shut down. Look for the security light on your instrument cluster.

Do you have an orange "security" light in the instrument cluster? Also what type of alarm do you have/ have you programmed tach or voltage sensing? If you need the tach then here is the info from the previous post "3 ECM is located near the battery, down low, between the fender and the fan under the black plastic cover. On the 4.3L, the tach wire is at pin 20 in the connector labeled 'red', and VSS wire is at pin 3 in the connector labeled 'black'. On the 4.8L, 5.3L, and 6.0L, the tach wire is located at pin 10 in the 'red' connector, and VSS wire is located in pin 50 of the 'red' connector" Wire color is white.

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

Sound like the problem is the "missing" ignition immobilizer module.

What kind of alarm/remote start system did you put in? If it's a DEI product (Viper, Clifford, Python, Sidewinder, Hornet), check the shutdown diagnostics. This main aid in the troubleshooting. You may have more than one problem.

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Friends Don't Let Friends Bump Stock.

This truck is the "stripped" model it doesnt flash the security light only the battery light if anything. I also installed power door locks. I am using a Crimestopper I belive it is made by DEI but how do I perform a shutdown diagnostic?

Make sure that you powered up all the IGN wires for the truck and that you relay isolated the primary IGN from the 2 nd IGN wire. To test if the Passlock is on the truck, go and get a normal key blank cut for this truck and try to start the truck with the key. If it starts fine with the copied key, then you have NO Passlock , but if you can't start it, then you need to bypass the Passlock. Post your results.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Jeff, Passlock II is built into the key cylinder, not into the key itself. A cheap $1 key copy will work, even with Passlock.

Stunnin, there are a few things to know.

Crimestopper is not made by DEI. DEI units are reliable and well-made, even if they're a little overpriced and take too long to install. Crimestopper is pretty much just average; I have a couple of used ones laying around, and they don't look like anything special.

The square panel that has the red "battery" picture in it performs a number of functions. Under certain conditions, it will turn orange and say "SECURITY." Does it do this while you're attempting to remote start?

In any event, your truck surely has Passlock II; I'm pretty sure this feature came on all models. IMPORTANT NOTE: If Passlock detects three improper starting attempts in a row, it will lock up for a little while....I forget if it's ten minutes or an hour. But you don't want to get yourself stuck there.

No matter what you do, don't attempt to remote start the truck more than twice in a row until you get everything figured out. If you try to remote-start it twice and you fail each time, hit the brake to kill the remote start, and start the truck with the key and let it run for a few moments.

It was smart of you to try remote starting the truck with the key left in the Run posistion---this helps to make sure that all the ignition wires are getting powered up----if it still cranks, starts, and dies, you've got Passlock.

Try something else. Turn the key to Run, and then tap it to Start for just a split second-----just enough to hear the starter make a noise, but not enough to actually start the engine----this will trigger all of the factory Passlock stuff to do its thing. Now, try remote starting again; does it work now? If so, there's your trouble.

There are a number of different brands of Passlock bypass units. DEI's 555L is probably the most popular, and can be picked up for I think $50 at any Circuit City. I use Audiovox's AS-GM4, which is a copy of the 555L. You might also take a look at www.transponderbypass.com.

Regardless of the brand you choose, there are two types of bypass units: Self-learning and user-adjustable.

If the instructions mention anything about measuring resistance with a multimeter, or moving DIP switches up and down, or turning an adjustment screw, that means it's a user-adjustable unit. That also means it's a piece of junk, will give you several headaches, and will add time to your install.

Shell out the few extra bucks for a self-learning module, and life will be good.

Also, the Crimestopper units I've seen inexcusably include only one ignition output---pretty much every modern car has two ignition wires, including yours.

Like Jeff says, both the pink and white wires need to see ignition during remote start. If you fail to power up the white wire, the remote start will still work, but you'll have a host of problems, including the transmission not shifting right.

So if you haven't already, make sure both of those wires are getting powered up under remote start. If your Crimestopper offers two ignition outputs, great; if not, you'll need a relay or two.

    Hey everyone this truck is a pain. I installed the bypass and cant get it to match the value. I should of bought the self learning one but didnt (ignorance is bliss). No matter how I try to adjust it the value it reads 5.09 and I need to be 3.258 and now I cant return the old for the new because I "used it". Can I just kill the bypass II ? any help is good. One last thing I still cant find the tach wire!?! its just lost in space!

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    I found the tack wire on the truck! I also got the bypass to "somewhat" match! But.... it only starts once out of three trys. The security light also still lights even when it does start. I think im close to finishing it but dont know what im doing wrong. I say the bypass matches somewhat because I turned it up all the way and it stops at 3.01, yesturday I was getting 5.09 because I was reading off the wrong wire. (duh!) Can someone please help me. Im realy tired of wiring, and rewiring this truck with no success what so ever. Thank you. Tony

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