08 mazda3 which remote start bypass?

 it really does not matter if it is the parking lights that flash, just need any 2 lights in front and back to flash, when alarm goes off?

I do not have a factory alarm installed, but when i press the lock button on the factory key fob - lights in front and back flash and horn honks.

1) the car has an immobilizer. You will need a bypass module. I use the fortin key override all

2) parking light is BLACK/ white (-) @ parking light switch. test with a multi meter.

3) with the key in the driver door, when you turn the key to lock then turn it again and hold it, does the window roll up? if no this feature will not work. you will need a 530t module.

1.  You did not mention using a bypass module.  Your car requires one and from the symptoms you give confirms it.   DEI PKALL is probably a good choice.

2.  The BLACK/ White wire at the light switch is correct.  Did you test it with a DMM?  It does require a (+) 12 volt signal.  Does your Alarm/ R/S provide a positive Parking light output?

3 You will need a Window RollUp module like the DEI 530T to do the windows controlled by the Alarms'  output.

My alarm provides a + or - output by moving a jumper in the alarm, i did meter the BLACK/ white wire and it has 12vdc when it is off and when i turn it on the voltage goes away, when i meter it in ohms with the light off it is open and when light is on it ground out. if this makes any sense?

all this metering is being done with the black lead to ground and the red lead on the wire.

my alarm if i meter the same way, when the alrm goes off it sends out 12vdc.

with the light switch off and pressing lock on the factory key fob, the voltage stay at 12vdc just moves alitlle down then back up.

kregs, im sure its a negative.

take you dmm, and set it to 20vdc. RED lead to constant 12v. BLACK to the BLACK/ white (-) wire at headlight switch. Turn parking lights on and meter should read 12-14vdc.

if thats the correct wire, set the polarity of the unit as negative (-) by the jumper you mentioned.

Oh, you gotta love conflicting info.   

Bulldog lists Parking Lights as (+) and I see AudioVox lists it as (-), same BLACK/ White wire at the switch.  As always, you difinitely want to test everything with a DMM. 

i have tryed hooking the alarm wire both ways + and - it still does not work. 

1.what other lights can i tap into maybe at the PJB or passenger kick panel?

2.does anybody know where and what fuse or wire the key fob sends a signal to, to make the lights and horn honk?

3.also when it flashes it is the parking lights in front and the tail light in the back?

4. how about tapping into the hazard lights, what fuse? or color of wire and location?

I would like to Thank everybody that has replyed, and has tryed to help me out, this site is GREAT.

parking lights (-)BLACK/ white @ PJB behind glovebox Pin 1 of 46 pin plug.

Parking lights (+) orange(R) and ORANGE / white(L) @ PKP Diode isolate both wires with 3-6amp diodes.

sorry but what color is ange? and what is PKP?

or! ange/white(L) @ PKP

it says ORANGE...im not too sure how much more complex that can get...

PKP is passenger kick panel.

The reason there is L for left and R for right, there are 2 wires that control either side. you need to diode isolate the wires.

Thanks for the info on the trunk trigger.

Where is the best place to mount the Communication Unit (Antenna, LED status Indicator, Valet Switch, 3 phase shock sensor)?

should the unti be visible or should it be hidden?

Communication Unit is all theses items (Antenna, LED status Indicator, Valet Switch, 3 phase shock sensor) everything listed here is one unit?

I was thinking of mounting it under the middle compartment near the hand brake? (what do you think, good place or not) 

I already have the brain mounted and hidden.

there is a seperate LED indicator, but Im thinking of not using it, since there already is a factory light that flashes near the ignition.

dont you think i should hide it, because the valet button is on it?

doesnt that mean is someone breaks in my car, and hits the valet button, the alarm will turn off?

is under the middle console , not a good place?

I seen somewhere or heard someone say, as long as you put the unit somewhere where the full length of the cable is used, it is good to go?

Also Tedmond

I wanted to ask you,  i found the fuse for the drivers door control that controls all the windows. but heres the thing with the key in the on position the windows have 0 voltage untill I press one of the swtichs then the voltage goes to 12 volts, which is great because that is the same thing my alarm does( alarm is at 0 when lock is pressed voltage goes to 12 volts for about 15 seconds).

But here is my problem, when the car is off, for some reason there is a steady 12 volts on the wire, why is this?

cant i some how wire in a relay, so there is no voltage at the windows when the car is off, so when i press the lock button on my remote the 12 volts the alarm send out will roll up the windows??