01 4runner viper 5902
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=120995
Printed Date: May 18, 2024 at 12:45 AM
Topic: 01 4runner viper 5902
Posted By: 00sonoma
Subject: 01 4runner viper 5902
Date Posted: March 26, 2010 at 8:37 PM
Putting in a 5902 remote start in a 2001 toy 4 runner and have a few questions. 1.)Do i need to hookup the oem alarm disarm wire, have two different wiring charts one says disarms with keysense the other shows the wire color. 2.)Do i need to hook up the tach wire or should i use the virtual tach? 3.)Does it still need an ign interface module for remote start? 4.)What are the (-) starter,ign outputs for on the h2 18pin connector for do i need them 5.)How would i wire the H3 10 pin connector?
Replies:
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: March 26, 2010 at 9:07 PM
1) e the actual disarm wire. Alarm Disarm BLUE/BLACK (-) 18 PIN CONN IN DRIVERS KICK
2) run tach its more reliable
3) you dont need an ignition interface, you need a bypass module for the transponder override durin rs.
4) the additional (-) ign, acc, start outputs are used to add additional circuits if required. this vehicle has 2 ignitions. most toyotas have a second start wire.
5) dont know what the h3 connector is on the DEI units. i dont deal with them much. ------------- Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
Posted By: 00sonoma
Date Posted: March 26, 2010 at 9:56 PM
tedmond wrote:
1) e the actual disarm wire. Alarm Disarm BLUE/BLACK (-) 18 PIN CONN IN DRIVERS KICK
2) run tach its more reliable
3) you dont need an ignition interface, you need a bypass module for the transponder override durin rs.
4) the additional (-) ign, acc, start outputs are used to add additional circuits if required. this vehicle has 2 ignitions. most toyotas have a second start wire.
5) dont know what the h3 connector is on the DEI units. i dont deal with them much.
1.)ok the 5902 has a factory alarm rearm is that needed also? 3.)thats what i meant bypass module, i read somewhere the 5902 didnt need them but i have it. thanks
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: March 27, 2010 at 6:22 AM
1) you can connect the rearm, but the 5902 locks after shutdown of remote start so it will rearm the factory alarm as well.
3) a bypass module is required.
-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: March 27, 2010 at 6:39 AM
5) I don't think there is a wire in the H3/10 harness. I believe it is a 10 pin harness but there is no lead/wire at 10.
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Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: March 27, 2010 at 12:29 PM
1. Do you have a factory alarm? It was optional that year.
2. Tach would work better, but DEI's Virtual Tach generally works well. You could leave the tach wire long, bundled up, not connected to anything, and try Virtual Tach for a few days. If it turns out to be reliable, leave it alone. Or, if needed, you can hook up tach later.
3. Depends if it has an immobilizer; not all did for that year. Is there a red flashing SECURITY light anywhere on the dash?
4. You don't need those for your installation, but they would be to trigger external relays, if your car had extra starter, ignition, or accessory wires.
5. I don't remember what that is. What does the install guide say?
Posted By: 00sonoma
Date Posted: March 27, 2010 at 2:29 PM
Chris Luongo wrote:
1. Do you have a factory alarm? It was optional that year.
2. Tach would work better, but DEI's Virtual Tach generally works well. You could leave the tach wire long, bundled up, not connected to anything, and try Virtual Tach for a few days. If it turns out to be reliable, leave it alone. Or, if needed, you can hook up tach later.
3. Depends if it has an immobilizer; not all did for that year. Is there a red flashing SECURITY light anywhere on the dash?
4. You don't need those for your installation, but they would be to trigger external relays, if your car had extra starter, ignition, or accessory wires.
5. I don't remember what that is. What does the install guide say?
5.)Heavy gauge remote start, (H3) 10-pin connector H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT H3/2 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87 H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL) H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE) H3/6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT H3/7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT H3/8 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY H3/9 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT H3/10 NC (no connection) NC think i got that part down now that i look at it again it does have that red flashing light im pretty sure its factory ok last question priority locking how would i wire is 451m needed or not thanks everyone for all your help
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: March 27, 2010 at 5:26 PM
OK.....
H3/10 No Connection: They're telling you that this pin serves no purpose, doesn't do anything, and shouldn't be connected to anything. Probably the alarm's wire harness is empty and doesn't even have any wire there....but even if it does, you'd just cut it short and tape it off and not use it.
451M: Not needed; your car has regular low-current door locks. The small blue and green wires from the alarm will be fine. Save the 451M for another alarm install another day, or even if you just need two relays to do any other kind of automotive project.
Anyway, on to the security light.....
The light indicates that you could have an immobilizer key, or a factory alarm system that sounds the horn when people break in, or both. For 2001 it really could go either way, so you should test.
1. Test if you have a factory alarm system:
Follow this link and read the 7th post:
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=76223&get=last
2. Test for immobilizer key.
Is the head of the key thick or thin? Plastic or metal? If it's plastic and thick, it has a transponder inside.
I've heard you can test by wrapping the head of the key in aluminum foil, and try starting the engine. If it fails to start, you can be sure there's a transponder. I've only tried this test once, so I don't have much experience.
Another option would be to get a cheap copy made at the hardware store and see if it starts the engine or not.
Posted By: 00sonoma
Date Posted: April 23, 2010 at 8:53 PM
it is a plastic headed key. and a security light on dash the directed immobillizer is kinda confusing anyone dealt with this the progressive unlocking is not working is it in the program or am i missing something? lock is fine but unlock does all doors where as the factory does driver then 2nd press unlocks all also door trigger works on all door but rear hatch is there a diff wire for hatch
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 24, 2010 at 5:28 AM
The 5902 doesn't have a separate 2nd unlock wire. I think (no experience with it) that there are two low current neg unlock wires in the DKP, use the reg for the driver's door and any aux for the others. Hatch may be on a second circuit or mechanical only.
Posted By: 00sonoma
Date Posted: April 24, 2010 at 11:46 AM
the immobilizer bypass asks for ground while starting from alarm, would this be the same as the orange ground when armed?
Posted By: 00sonoma
Date Posted: April 24, 2010 at 6:34 PM
ok everything is done only will remote start will not work unless key is in the ignition, the 1100x wire colors are wrong i belive cannot find them for the life of me. tried programing the 110x module and keeps giving me the red light fault. it says for 4 runner imo wire is blu/red pin 7, the imi wire is wht/red pin 6, security light wire is vio/white pin 3 for 2003-2006 are the wire colors different for 2001? someone please help me! should i use a different immobilizer bypass module? thanks in advance.
Posted By: jokerchingon
Date Posted: April 24, 2010 at 7:12 PM
ok first what bypass are u using?second is i find it easier to use a tbx key from dei is the one were u put a spare key in a box and run a loop around the key switch is by far the eazy way to do sure u loose a key but less headaches .as for were u connect for remote start out put you connect it to the dark blue wire comming from H2 harness 18 pin connector that is 5901 status output when remote start.
Posted By: 00sonoma
Date Posted: April 24, 2010 at 7:17 PM
yes i connected to the dark blue . im using the 1100x by directed its just that i could not find the imo,imi and security light wires, diagram listed 2003-2006, vehichle is a 2001
Posted By: 00sonoma
Date Posted: April 25, 2010 at 7:02 PM
ok i found some different wiring colors for the immobilizer synch------pink/black clock-----RED / black data-----gray/red keysense----yellow/ red the guide for the directed 1100x shows only two connections for imo and im wires, the imo wire gets taped into, and the imi gets cut and the module has car side and connector side that go to them.
Anyonegot any ideas?
Posted By: 00sonoma
Date Posted: April 30, 2010 at 1:58 PM
no ideas on how to wire the directed 1100x?
Posted By: 00sonoma
Date Posted: May 15, 2010 at 12:20 PM
ok used a different bypass module.dei 555lw i belive, all works ok only issues are when remote starting remote displays a trunk open trigger, blue wire is hooked up and does not show trigger when regular arm and disarm. only during remote start. if you use the key and open trunk with alarm armed it does not trigger. also still trying to get the progressive unlock like factorty alarm does. first press drivers door, 2nd press all others. i see settings in menu but a little confused on how to make this work can not find info in the wiring diagram
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