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new here with a problem with bmw

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=121351
Printed Date: June 09, 2024 at 4:52 PM


Topic: new here with a problem with bmw

Posted By: cemz
Subject: new here with a problem with bmw
Date Posted: April 14, 2010 at 11:33 PM

A little introduction, My name is Sam. I been on this site for sometime looking at info about wiring an alarm and when I finally thought I got, I don't. So, I finally decided to register. I have a 96' BMW M3. The main problem I have is wiring the alarm to work with my central locking system. I'm really having a difficult time making this work. Just wondering if anyone else with BMW's have had any problems and can chime in and help? Thanks in advance.



Replies:

Posted By: cemz
Date Posted: April 14, 2010 at 11:34 PM
Oh btw, Crimestopper sp-100 wiring into an 1996 BMW M3 Coupe




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 15, 2010 at 1:53 AM
You have two ways to do it on US vehicles;
1) With factory alarms, go for the alarm module, WHITE/ black - lock and blue/red - unlock.
2) Without the factory alarm remove glove box, control module with the plugs facing you, one rectangular with heavier cables, 2 x quadplugs, middle plug, either yellow or purple, pin 17 blue/red + is unlock, probably empty socket opposite, pin 4 is lock +. If there is a wire at that point it's white with a red trace. Extend lock time pulse for window/roof closing* TEST.
The plug to it's right has the door and possibly trunk triggers.
*Make sure your 1 shot facility is still working.
Bulldog has a free access site, check that as well.




Posted By: cemz
Date Posted: April 15, 2010 at 1:16 PM
What you're saying is that theres another harness instead of the prewired for alarm harness? Do you have any pictures and can you be more specific?




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 16, 2010 at 10:59 AM
If you've found the prewired alarm plug, what's your problem?




Posted By: cemz
Date Posted: April 16, 2010 at 11:49 AM
The problem is actually getting the lock and unlock to work with my alarm. I'm not sure if the module is messed up or what, cause wiring my lock(-) and unlock(-) to the prewired harness is not working. I believe my prewired harness for the lock and unlock is (+).

Do you thinking using relays would work?
posted_image

posted_image




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 16, 2010 at 12:17 PM
If you go to the factory alarm plug, it's neg pulse so you won't need relays. Check your alarms output to see if lock and unlock give you negative pulses as they should.




Posted By: cemz
Date Posted: April 16, 2010 at 12:41 PM
On the manual it says (-). This website is confusing cause I was looking up wiring diagrams, on 1997 3 series it said (+) for lock and unlock, then I went to 1998 and it says (-) for lock and unlock.I looked on bimmerforums and they said it was (+). https://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1188309 .Anywho, I tried wiring my lock and unlock directly to the factory alarm plug and still no luck..




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 16, 2010 at 2:35 PM
92 to 98, E36, pos locking at the quadplug, that's what the European versions did. 98-05 E46 Neg locking.
In the US there was a factory alarm on the E36. This part used neg locks with the same colours as the E46. So on your model you have 2 choices which adds to the (your?) confusion. Simply test, throw over the latch on the door you keep open, shut other door and poke something into the striker so the car thinks the dome lights have shut down. To sum up, ig you have the factory alarm you have a choice of 2 lock types.




Posted By: cemz
Date Posted: April 16, 2010 at 3:26 PM
I've done a test, and it tells me the wires from the alarm is positive. I've also tested the wires from going to the motor, I ground my test light, and every time I hit lock and unlock, it would light up stating that its a (+) pulse. And since my lock and unlock from my aftermarket alarm module is (-), using the 3 wire positive door locks or 5 wire alternating door locks would be appropriate for this situation?




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 16, 2010 at 4:25 PM
A motor wire normally sits on ground and goes pos. Your biggest problem is that you don't know what you're doing. Go for the triggers. Have you identified them? What colours are they. You are messing this up, I don't know of any 2 wire alarm lock wires that are normally pos.




Posted By: cemz
Date Posted: April 16, 2010 at 4:54 PM
Ok, let me try to make this clear cause I'm getting more confused when I'm reading your replies lol.

Alarm Module
GREEN / WHITE = Lock (-)
Blue/white = Unlock (-)
Green = Door Trigger (-) which I've already wired to my door switch. Works fine.

Factory Alarm Prewired harness
WHITE/ red = Lock (+)
Blue/gray = Unlock (+)

This is the 12 pin Factory Alarm prewired harness layout
Locking Tab
1...2...3...4...5...6
7...8...9.10.11.12

Pin#.............Function......................... ........Wire Color

1...........Constant 12VDC....................RED / Green or RED / Gray
2...........Ignition 12VDC.......................Violet/White
3...........Chassis Ground......................BROWN / Orange or Brown
4...........(-) Driver Door Trigger............BROWN / Gray
5...........(-) Passenger Door.................BROWN / Blue
6...........(-) Rear Door...........................BROWN / Black or BROWN / Violet
7...........(+) Horn Trigger......................BLACK/ Blue
8 Not Used
9...........(+) Lock...................................WHITE/ Red
10..........(+) Unlock................................Blue/Red or Blue/Brown
11..........(-) Trunk Trigger......................BROWN / White or WHITE/ Brown
12 Not Used




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 17, 2010 at 1:56 AM
OK, thanks for that last post, I think we're getting somewhere now.
I apologise for the confusion but since I've never seen the US version I was going on Bulldog and Directechs which stated that although the locking system used pos pulses, the factory alarm plug used neg!.
Of the relay diagrammes you originally posted,the first one is correct BUT turn the left relay around so that the neg pulse from your module goes to 85. Then place a diode* across 85 and 86 on each relay with the band towards the pos side to protect your unit.
Now here's the clever bit. does your unit have a timed aux output?
If so set it for 10 secs., or 15 if you have an electric sunroof and run it to 85 on the lock relay. Every time you press that aux, it will deadlock the car and close the windows/roof.
*1N4004 diodes.




Posted By: cemz
Date Posted: April 17, 2010 at 9:45 AM
Thanks for the advice, and I'm glad were on the same page now lol. Would you make a diagram of how the wiring should be? So when I do get started on this again, I won't have to think real hard on it when I shouldn't.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 17, 2010 at 10:05 AM
Relay 1 Lock Alarm lock wire to 85
12V+Constant fused at 3amps to 86 and 87
Output to car's lock trigger wire (WHITE/ red) from 30
If you have an aux on your alarm that you can set up as timed, feed it to 85 on that relay. It should close the windows/roof.
relay 2 unlock.
alarm unlock wire to 85
Same fused line as above (shared) to 86 and 87
Output to car's unlock trigger (blue/red) from 30
Don't forget to diode across the coil, band of diode towards the + side (86).
If there's a remote start involved, let me know because you will need to know some BMW specific details that aren't in any guides!




Posted By: cemz
Date Posted: April 17, 2010 at 10:35 AM
I appreciate it!! Actually my alarm does have a timed aux output. What is all required for it, cause the package did not come with any extra hardware. And how would you install this?

Sp-100

    *
      2-Way FM/FM Combo Alarm, Keyless Entry and Remote Start System
    *
      2-Way FM/FM Touch Screen Paging Remote with Fully Animated LCD Graphics and Audible Tones for Confirmation of Alarm Status, Violation and Engine Start
    *
      Includes Sidekick Non-Paging Remote
    *
      Dynamic Code Protection (Anti Code-Grabbing)
    *
      Code Learning Receiver
    *
      Electronic Dual-Stage Shock Protection (Plug-In Design)
    *
      Multi-Zone Trigger Protection
    *
      Defective Zone Bypass with Warning Chirps
    *
      Alarm Pre-Warning Signal
    *
      Manual Arming Mode: Allows you to arm/disarm the system without carrying a remote control
    *
      On-Board Relay for Flashing Lights
    *
      Audible and Visual Arm/Disarm with Intrusion Alert
    *
      Programmable Carjack Protection
    *
      Programmable Vehicle Horn Output
    *
      Remote Panic Protection
    *
      25W High-Power Mini Single Tone Siren
    *
      Passive Door Locks (Programmable)
    *
      Passive & Active Re-Arming Mode (Programmable)
    *
      LED Diagnostic for Last Zone Triggered
    *
      Remote Keyless Entry
    *
      Built-In Door Lock Relays
    *
      Dual Parking Light Relays (+) or (-)
    *
      Auto Lock/Unlock Through Vehicle's Ignition
    *
      Separate Driver's Door Unlock Priority
    *
      Double Unlock Pulse (Programmable Feature for Factory Interface)
    *
      1 or 3 Second Door Lock Pulse (Programmable)
    *
      Silent Arm/Disarm Through the Remote
    *
      (6) Programmable Remote Auxiliary Outputs: Momentary, Timed or Latched
    *
      (4) Vehicle Operation
    *
      Dome Light Illumination
    *
      Programmable Arm/Disarm Chirps
    *
      Transferable Limited Lifetime Warranty
    *
      86 Programmable Options

Remote Start Features

    *
      Turbo Timer Mode: Allows Engine to Continue Running from 1-5 Minutes After Key Removal
    *
      "Ultra Smart" Tachless Mode
    *
      Programmable "Wake Up" Ignition Pulse on Unlock for Vehicles with "Slam Locks"
    *
      Timed Crank Mode (Pre-set Starter Cranking time in 4 Increments of 0.5-1.5 Seconds)
    *
      Glow Plug Input or Programmable Timed Delay for Diesel Engines
    *
      (5) On-Board Remote Start Relays for Easy Installation: ACC, IGN, IGN2, Start, and Parking Lights
    *
      Selectable Engine Speed Sensing: "Smart" Tachless or Tach (RPM) Learning
    *
      Remote Start Diagnostics
    *
      3rd Start Output
    *
      Tach Finder Mode
    *
      Timed Start Mode
    *
      Idle Down Mode
    *
      Programmable Engine Run Time: 3min, 10min, 15min or 20min
    *
      Factory OEM Alarm Arm/Disarm Outputs
    *
      Negative Ignition Output for Additional Relays or Anti-Theft Bypass Modules
    *
      Hood Open Safety Circuit: Unit will not Remote Start if Hood is Open or Ajar
    *
      Foot Brake or Parking Brake Option

Remote Features

    *
      2-Way FM/FM Touch Screen Pager with Fully Animated, Color 3D LCD Graphics and Voice Confirmation of Alarm Status, Violation, and Remote Engine Starting
    *
      Rechargeable Internal battery
    *
      Range Meter
    *
      Vehicle Battery Voltage Check Meter
    *
      Vehicle Temperature Check Meter
    *
      Parking Meter Timer
    *
      Alarm Clock
    *
      Daily Timed Start
    *
      Trigger Record (Check the Time and Date of the Last 4 Alarm Triggers or Violations)
    *
      Pin Code Set: Remote will not unlock the doors unless the proper code has been entered into the remote (Programmable)
    *
      Alarm Status Check
    *
      Real Time LCD Clock
    *
      Backlight Adjustment: Bright, Dark, Etc
    *
      English or Spanish Language Settings
    *
      Silent Arm/Disarm
    *
      Arm Without Shock Sensor
    *
      Car Finder Mode
    *
      Button Lock Protection: Buttons can be Locked to Prevent Accidental Pressing
    *
      Power Save Mode




Posted By: cemz
Date Posted: April 17, 2010 at 10:37 AM
Opps sorry thats the wrong one, I was looking at the wrong alarm lol. It seems that my alarm doesn't have the timed aux output. Sorry about that.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 17, 2010 at 12:44 PM
Does it have any aux outputs? I'm about 3500 miles away over the pond and I'm not familiar with the brand! Two answers:
1) Take an existing aux and run it through a DEI 528t set to the right time, run a parallel wire off your lock wire through a relay to interlock it with your ignition, i.e wire from lock side to relay 30, relay 87a to 528t, ignition to 86 and ground to 85. Run a wire to the unlock side from this wire, place a 1N4004 diode inline on that wire with the band towards the unlock side.This means that if you lock the doors when ignition is on, either manually or auto lock it wont close the windows or deadlock but if you arm the device it will automatically close the windows and deadlock the car. Post me if you want the remote start info.





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