Some questions...
What brand/model of R/S system? Does it do tachless and does it need to be programmed to do tachless?
Did you connect to both Starter1 (BLACK/ Red) and Starter2 (BLACK / YELLOW) at the ignition?
Does the car remote start with a working key in the ignition ( but not turned )?
Any Security Light on the dash?
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Soldering is fun!
kreg357 wrote:
Some questions...
What brand/model of R/S system? Does it do tachless and does it need to be programmed to do tachless?
Did you connect to both Starter1 (BLACK/ Red) and Starter2 (BLACK / YELLOW) at the ignition?
Does the car remote start with a working key in the ignition ( but not turned )?
Any Security Light on the dash?
The System is the DEI Ready Remote 24921. Using the tach is optional and only needs to be programmed if the tach option is used. I did wire up both Starter wires and it will work if I have the key in the ignition and turned on and it will keep trying once the vehicle has started causing it to grind the starter. I dont recall a security light on the dash.
I think instead of a light that says "security," the Altima has a little picture of a a car that's a red flashing light in the instrument cluster.
Regardless, what are you using to interface with your Altima's anti-theft immobilizer?
Chris Luongo wrote:
I think instead of a light that says "security," the Altima has a little picture of a a car that's a red flashing light in the instrument cluster.
Regardless, what are you using to interface with your Altima's anti-theft immobilizer?
I dont recall that light either. I am using a DEI 556U with the key inside. The key is good, I used it to start the car before placing it in the box. My main concern was about the transponder loop on the 556U. It pretty much goes right on top of the factory one on the ignition switch. Is it fine that way, or should I hard wire into the factory transponder ring wires?
The 556u antenna ring should be placed in front of the factory receiver ring ( on the key side ) not on top of it. The jumper can be set for Mode 1 ( 18 windings ) for Asain cars although Mode 2 ( 60 windings ) is more sensitive.
Only three wires are connected. Red goes to +12v constant. Black goes to ground. Blue goes to the 24921's thin Blue wire, (-) Status Output. If you are using the (-) Status Output for something else too, you should diode isolate.
There seems to be some conflicting info on your cars wiring. Bulldog Security says 1 IGN wire, 2 Starter wires and 2 ACC wires. AudioVox says two of each. Your R/S only supplies 1 ACC, 1 Starter and 2 IGN outputs. I would suggest using the computer friendly test light or a DMM and checking your car. You will need some relays to get everything powered up. The Install Guide for the 24921 is pretty good for relay info.
I have had some problems with the Ready Remotes in Tachless mode. I remember a Ford that would start, then turn off and then start again. It would give up after three attempts. It didn't grind the starter. It is usually best to run in Tach mode. On your car, go to any Fuel Injector or Ignition Coil and connect to the non-common wire. You can test with a DMM set to A/C. You should see a 1 to 6 volt signal that rises with RPM's.
Here is the wiring info from AudioVox:
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Battery GREEN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 1 RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 2 BLACK/ RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Accessory 1 RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Accessory 2 WHITE/ BLUE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 1 BLACK/ RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 2 BLACK / YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Anti-Theft Type NISSAN NVIS® VEHICLE IMMOBILIZER
Anti-Theft Descript THE KEY SENDS AN RF SIGNAL TO THE BCM MODULE THROUGH AN ANTENNA LOCATED AROUND THE IGNITION CYLINDER
Key Sense BLACK/ RED (+) AT BCM MODULE BEHIND LEFT SIDE OF DASH NEAR FUSE PANEL
PIN #37
Neutral Safety GREEN/ RED (-) AT ECM MODULE ABOVE PASSENGER FOOTWELL
Tachometer
THE VEHICLE TACHOMETER SIGNAL IS SENT THROUGH A DATABUS LINE - YOU MUST USE A CRANKSHAFT OR CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR OR A FUEL INJECTOR SIGNAL WIRE.
Crankshaft Sensor WHITE (AC) AT ECM MODULE BEHIND GLOVEBOX ABOVE PASSENGER FOOTWELL
PIN #71
Camshaft Sensor WHITE (AC) AT ECM MODULE BEHIND GLOVEBOX ABOVE PASSENGER FOOTWELL
PIN #62
Parking Lights RED / BLUE (+) AT POWER DISTRIBUTION CENTER UNDER HOOD
ALSO IN HARNESS IN DRIVER SILL PLATE HARNESS
Brake Lights RED / GREEN (+) AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
Reverse Lights GREEN / WHITE (+) IN DRIVERS DOOR SILL HARNESS
Horn GREEN / WHITE (-) IN HARNESS AT STEERING COLUMN
Anti Theft RX BLUE/RED (DATA) AT IMMOBILIZER CONTROL UNIT IN STEERING COLUMN
Anti Theft TX WHITE/ BLUE (+) AT IMMOBILIZER CONTROL UNIT IN STEERING COLUMN
Rear Defrost RED
And to answer the un-asked question - No, you can't make the Parking Lights stay on constant while running in remote start, they will only blink.
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Soldering is fun!
Ok....here is the easy way to test. Remove the ring from the cylinder. Place the key in the ignition cylinder, and then remote start the car. If the car stays running, then it's a bypass issue. If it reacts the same way, then it will most likely be a tach issue.
With the above test from mikvot, do not turn the key, just insert it. You only want the cars immobilzer antenna to see the keys transponder chip signal. You don't want to power up any ignition wires by turning the key, the R/S should do all of that ( if connected properly ).
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Soldering is fun!
Thank you all. I get the car back tomorrow. I will try to run the Tach wire and hopefully achieve some better results. I will keep you all posted.