intellistart 4, starting problem, 00 peugeot 306

Hi everyone,

I'm guessing Howie might be the man who can help me with this :) I'm trying to install an Intellistart 4 module into a 2000 Peugeot 306 HDI (UK). The car already has an Clifford AvantGuard 5.5 G5 system installed and that seems to work fine.

Now, when I ground the wire for the auto transmission (BLACK/ Green), the car will start for about 2-3 seconds then shut off. When the wire isn't grounded (manual mode), the car won't start at all. I tried to set the RPM using the Cliffnet Wizard first of all, but read afterwards about all the problems with doing that, do I programmed it manually using the Valet Switch buttons, and I get 2 flashes of the indicators (which I believe means the RPM programming was successful). The tach wire I have is tapped into the tach wire that goes into the back of the instrument cluster.

Also, the handbrake connection is a little confusing in the manual. The wire I have for the handbrake at the moment is 12v when down (handbrake off) and 0v when up (handbrake on). Is this correct? If not, how should it be?

And the 2 connections on the H2 harness on the main alarm brain for brake input and output (BROWN / Red and BROWN / White respectively I think) - are they necessary for the Intellistart? Because currently, they aren't connected...

Thanks for any help or suggestions as to why the Intellistart might not be working :)

Have you allowed for diesel? Have you by-passed the transponder immobiliser? If you used Wiz after setting the tach, relearn it, installer settings, zone 3, level one. The parking brake is correct being a Peugeot it only shows when the engine is running (!). There should be two wires at the switch under the parking (hand) brake, GREEN/ YELLOW and another, use the other. The BROWN / red goes to a 20amp fused constant 12volt source, the BROWN / white goes to the brake light side (output) of the foot brake switch. Don't use the brake lead from the I/Start. Also only use the BLACK/ grey from the I/Start, not the purple black from the AG 5.5 Also don't connect the I/Start's bonnet (hood) switch, WHITE/ black because the grey from the AG 5.5 should already be connected.

Thanks for your reply Howie :) I did allow for diesel, connected the +ve glowplug light wire up, I also cut the glowplug connection and set it as petrol, as it's direct injection it always starts straight up, the glowplug light hardly ever comes on and when it does it's only for a second or so.

I made up a small jig to hold the chip from the key about that same distance from the transponder ring as the key would be and tucked it in the dash, so that has been bypassed fine now, works consistently.

I relearned the RPM fine after using the Wiz (I've heard so many problems with this, only after I bought it! I'm sure I read somewhere that the G4 version of the software is more stable, but would it work with G5 systems?).

The tach is connected to the I/Start only.

The hood switch is also connected as you described, to the AG 5.5 and not the I/Start

I'll check those foot and hand brake connections when I get to the car later today, I have a feeling that's where my problem might be with the not starting, would that sound right to you?

No it sounds like a by-pass problem frankly. The chip will work on Pugs when glued with acrylic to the top of the plastic antenna housing around the key, just test it first. Try testing by leaving another key in the ignition. Yes Wiz is more stable with G4. You're on a hiding to nothing using V2.2. The last time, about a month ago it just crashed halfway through!
Try to use the Wiz to extend the crank time slightly....good luck.

Hey Howie, sorry for the delayed reply. I've connected everything up now as you said to, the transponder is being bypassed fine I think. The problem is, the car just won't even try to start in manual mode, I hear the relay click on-off, on-off and just no ignition or anything. In automatic mode, the car starts for a few seconds, then you can hear a relay cut the ignition, then it dies.

I've got a feeling the RPM isn't being programmed correctly for some reason, even though I get the 2 flashes from the indicators to say it's been successful. I'm sure I read somewhere (can't find it now), that by using the G5 Wizard software, it can corrupt part of the I/Start for good, is that right? Because I'm not sure what else to try now.

Also, does the more stable G4 Wizard software work with G5 systems, or just G4?

Thanks :)

As long as you manually programme tach AFTER using Wizz you should be OK.
2 Things There might be, depending on the year 2 ignitions of which both are to be treated as ignition 1 on Peugeots although I think it was more relevant to post 05 206 model. Power up all the leads on the ignition loom.
Check your outputs from your intellistart to see if they are working.
Are you using a 556U and have you wired it correctly, i.e. as per European Cars and no loop antenna?

At the back of the ignition key cylinder are 4 heavy gauge wires going though 2 connectors. One connector has a red wire (12v constant) and a blue one (starter), the other connector has a orange wire (ignition) and a yellow one (accessory).

I'll check the outputs and see what's happening there.

I'm not using any type of transponder bypass, just the chip from the key very close to the transponder ring (all factory). The car starts fine with both a key with no chip in and a key with the chip inside, so I don't think there is any kind of issue there really.

After manually programming the tach, should it show up in the Wiz software? Do you still have to manually reprogram after, even if you didn't change anything?

Yes to the last question, now check the outputs from the I/Start.
You can programme in a diesel delay on the Wizz of about 4-5 secs. (10 sec. default).

Ok, so after a fair bit of poking around, I notice that the tach signal wire seems pretty inconsistent. I've tried wiring to the crankshaft sensor and injectors, but they aren't reliable either.

I've read that on diesels, you use a 454t to generate a tach signal Howie. Do you know where I might be able to find one in the UK, or even a similar product? I see loads for sale in the US, but don't want to wait like 2-3 weeks for shipping :)

Try Armour Automotive, DEI's UK distributor.
But your problem, with no tach sensing, unit will try and start with STARTER ENGAGED for up to 15 secs.
So I don't think your problem is tacho.
The tacho feed at the inst. panel is perfectly adequate for tach sensing so something else is wrong, either your wiring OR have you tested the I/Starts outputs.
Did you really expect any electrical system on a Peugeot to be RELIABLE? LOL.

Either terminal 21 or 22 rear of inst. panel wire numbers 426 or 427.
Test with a DMM with engine running, black lead to ground (earth) red lead as ptobe, set to AC volts, should read 2.5 volts AC increasing slightly as you rev up.

Hey Howie, sorry for the late reply, I've been away on holiday. Anyway, I used the tach wire you suggested and it seems ok :)

I got the Intellistart working now, I just bought another one (used), plugged it in and it worked straight away, so I'm guessing maybe the Wizard software messed up my old one or something?

I do have a few questions though - after I remotely start the car with the Intellistart, if I press the arm/disarm button (little padlock one), it just disarms the alarm, it doesn't unlock the doors (I have to do it manually with the key). Is that right? It unlocks and locks fine if not using the Intellistart.

Also, I read about the autostart thing where the car starts up when the battery voltage or temperature falls below a preset level. Do you know where the temperature gets sensed from?

Thanks :)

Can't answer that, I haven't had the problem with the locks, did you use the motor wires at the BSI box?.
Never successfully programmed the voltage/temp sensor!

Ok thanks Howie, I tapped into the lock & unlock wires under the fusebox on the drivers side, one was yellow and the other green I think. The car seems to shut off the central locking system whenever the engine is going, almost like it cuts the feed off or something. Would you know how I might get around that?

Thinking about it now, before I had the alarm fitted I used to try and leave the car running with one set of keys, and lock it with the other (not a good idea, I know lol), the central locking never worked then either, had to do it manually with the key in the door. What I'm saying is, I'm sure it's the car, not the alarm/remote start.

One other thing - is it possible to do the safestart thing without starting the engine? I mean, if you pull up somewhere and just turn the engine off and arm the car like usual, can you get the remote start ready to go without having to get back in the car, start the engine and do the safestart thing? Sorry if that sounds like a stupid question :)

Thanks again

Go above the fuse/BSI box, square black plug on the left, use the motor wires so redo the locking from type "B" neg to 5 wire, installation guide will show you how, that will remove the problem.
Second question, the answer is NO.

Thanks for your help Howie, much appreciated, you've been a great help! :)

Do you have any experience with the Clifford Callguard unit? Seems rather handy, but it's only really someone like yourself you would truly know :)

In all seriousness, what's your car worth?

Not an awful amount to be honest, it's more about the convenience of the added range via sms over the gsm network really.

Too many mods, relays, extra remote needed plus a new unused sim card to make it effective. Not cost effective from a labour point of view.