remote start, trunk pop problem

I've searched all over the forums looking for a person before me who may have had a similar problem but havent found anything, so I finally decided to post my question.  Any helpful input is much appreciated, by the way this site helped me out alot already.

I am installing an alarm & seperate remote start in a 1994 Plymouth Sundance (same as 94 dodge shadhow).  I got the wiring diagram, researched so i knew exactly where i was supposed to put where, where i would need relays, etc.  Now I have everything hooked up.  The alarm by the way is a Scytek Astra 777 with two way & the remote start is a Valet 561t.  I also converted the manual locks to power using door actuators, & the manual trunk to power using a pop trunk kit.  The alarm is working, it does almost everything it is supposed to do out of the box by default.  There are two problems however.  The remote start seems to not be working, & the trunk pop solenoid seems to not be working either.

As far as the remote start I have everything hooked up to the correct wires, i checked the wires with a multimeter to double check that the wires had the correct readings at the correct times.  I do have the tach wire connected, & it is connected to the alarm.  The first thing it says to do in the manual is to have the remote start learn the tach signal.  I perform the steps but the led on the unit does not light up like it is supposed to when the signal is learned.  The car does still start up with the key as normal & everything works, so I'm starting to wonder if the brain works at all for the remote start.  I will go make sure today that it is getting a good ground, but that is the only thing I could think of, so do any of you have any ideas?

A more detailed problem for the trunk pop is that it has a good power source & ground i have checked those. I have it hooked up as such, the kit comes with a button to mount in the car, I found a relay diagram where i can keep the button & use the one of the auxillary on the remote to open the trunk as well.  So i tested to make sure the alarm was sending the proper signal it is activating the relay properly.  I checked the voltage I'm getting 11.8 volts before the button (the one that came with the kit), after the button i'm getting 8.65 volts (when the button is pressed thus closing the circuit) that seems strange to me, but i did an additional test.  I took the button out of the equation all together simply wiring the positive on the solenoid motor to a positive power source & leaving the ground, when i did this i heard a small click in the solenoid but its not pulling the wire as it should, so is this solenoid bad? or am i doing something wrong, or is there a better way to test to see if the solenoid itself is even working?

Sorry this is so long i just wanted to be as detailed as possible & give the information that may be needed to answer without having to guess...if i left out anything or there is anything you want to know please let me know & i will add it.  Thanks in advance :D

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I wouldnt ask if i already knew...

First, where have you connected the tach to? Is there a separate coil or plug packs and injectors? If coil, neg side, if injectors non common colour leads, or if a tacho in instrument panel, use it's lead.
Second solenoids fore trunk release are nasty things to install. Open the trunk, flip the catch over and try to release using the remote. Is it pulling correctly?
Is there enough tension or too much.
1 hour's cable run, 5 minutes to install and a day to get it right!
I just hate doing them.

The tach wire is connected at the coil, & it is the negative side. 

As far as the solenoid it has the correct tension, when i press the button it will click but the wire does not move.  The click is very subtle though so i dont know if the solenoid is bad or if it is something else.

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I wouldnt ask if i already knew...

Divajones-

 You may want to set your remote start for voltage checking (vs tach checking) and confirm everything else is operating.   If all else is OK, you may have a poor connection for the tach, or the wrong wire connected.  If you measure your tach wire near your remote start (confirming both the tach connection and the wire), you should measure a signal from 1 to 6 volts AC (need to set the meter for AC voltage).  The signal will increase slightly as you press the accelerator.

 As far as the trunk pop, if your solenoid is not pulling in, may I ask what wire size did you install to the solenoid?   I assume the solenoid is grounded at the trunk, and the power wire is run back to the solenoid...If your solenoid did not come with a wire, or if you used different wire for your installation, it needs to be fairly thick...

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Lectric Guy

Lectric guy is absolutely correct, also I would test the voltage as you actuate the trunk release, DON'T ground it locally, go back into the car for an existing good grounding point, e.g. the grounds for your tail lights. If you're using the alarm's trunk pop, assuming it's a grounding aux feed, and your power source is a good (i.e. nice heavy constant 12V+ wire) fused at 15 amp then I assume you're using a relay as such. Aux from alarm OR neg going switch, diode each with the bars towards switch and alarm, both leads to 85, constant at 15 amps to 86 and 87, 30 to solenoid (trunk pop). Don't wire thus:- constant to trunk pop, ground return through alarms aux.

I'll reply to lectricguy first...

yea as i went back through in the remote start manual, i did think to myself that i should switch that jumper over to voltage checking.  Its been raining here so i'll do that as soon as the weather permits.  I'll also run the check on the tach wire while accelerating. The wire size i used for the solenoid is the wire that came in the kit, i'm not absolutely sure what gauge it is though, but it is thicker than most of the other wires i have run (with the exception of the remote start wires going to the ignition of course), if i had to guess i would say its about  12 gauge.  Does it need to be thicker than that?

to howie:

to confirm, I am using the ground for the taillights, there is a factory bolt in the back of the car that already had taillight ground going to it.  it is fused at 15 amps i am using a relay to activate the trunk pop via the alarm aux that is a grounding type feed.  i havent tested the voltage as i am actuating it though so i will do that.  Also I'll rearange my relay to match your description & test. 

Thanks so far guys i'll let you know how this turns out tomorrow...after i run the tests.

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I wouldnt ask if i already knew...

devajones-

  If you are using the wires supplied with the trunk pop solenoid, you should be ok...what you need to watch out for is using wire that is less than that guage other places in the installation ( to wire a relay, to go to the power source, to the ground, etc).  If you were consistant with the wire guage, then I would test the voltage across the solenoid while activating it as Howie suggested.

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Lectric Guy

Ok I checked my tach wire it was the correct one, then i switched the jumper to voltage instead of tach & voila!!! Its working just fine.  I guess my car falls into the "newer" chrysler/plymouth/dodge cars that the manual was refering to that needs to use the voltage checking setting. Thanks so much for the advice!!!

Now for the trunk solenoid, i tested the voltage while it was being actuated & i was getting about 6.8 volts.  I also set up the relay exactly like howie suggested & the wire is still not pulling in at all.  Does the solenoid wire have to have any tension on it to pull?  Is that the correct voltage? I'm starting to think the solenoid may be defective...

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I wouldnt ask if i already knew...

The voltage sounds very low...

The solenoid does not need any tension to operate (Pull in) as a test.   If the trunk mechanism is tight/rusted/stuck, however, and the solenoid is energized, it is possible the solenoid would not be able to pull in.

I would remove the latch from the soleniod and see if it operates.   If it does, I would look at why the latch is preventing proper operation. 

If it does not work, I would remove the solenoid and test it on the bench.  First, connect a Fuse to the solenoid.  Using a 12V battery (I usually use a power supply),  momentarily connect the solenoid through the fuse to the battery.  This will confirm if the solenoid is good. 

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Lectric Guy

Yea i thought so too about the voltage being low.  I havent figured out what could be causing that exactly. i know the latch mechanism is just fine there is no rust nothing is binding, & it moves freely. As a matter of fact it is fairly easy to actuate.  The bench test is my next move to actually test if the actuator is working.  I'll update tomorrow when i do that test.

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I wouldnt ask if i already knew...

How many posts ago did I ask you to test the actuator, you would have been ahead of where you are now a week ago if you had listened.

Maybe you should read your own posts again. I have tested it several times, & i tested it the way you suggested, i already posted that didnt work...plus its been raining non-stop here.  You dont have to be a jerk about it. Bottom line is i'll get it figured out one way or another. Its really no big deal, nor am i in a hurry i have several cars...so in no way is this situation putting me in a bind. 

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I wouldnt ask if i already knew...

No, I suggested you test it across a battery or power source, not in situ! This voltage you were getting, 6.8? Was this with the solenoid connected? Try it again on the wire going to the solenoid with the solenoid disconnected, you should get 12 -12.6 volts. If so you have a short on the solenoid, change it.