Printer Friendly Forum Posts - domelight and reverse lights h1/4

I am interested in adding a little feature to my dome light supervision function. I have my DEI H1/4 wire pushing a relay and connected to my negative dome circuit. I would like to tap into the H1/4 wire to also illuminate my reverse lights at the same time. But not when I open the door in general. Only on disarming and when removing key from ignition. I know I will need another relay but unsure of the connections. All the lights are LEDs and will draw minimal current. Any input would be appreciated thanks.

that would be sweet. I hope someone can answer your question as I may do that to mine aswell.. :)

Well I actually figured it out. If you are interested..let me know. I had to use a separate relay.

definitely.. Please post it up here, and I may give it a shot. Thanks

Ok here it is, Pin 86 and Pin 30 go to fused constant 12v... Pin 85 goes to dome light output of alarm (Blk/Wht) and Pin 87 taps into 12v reverse light wire. I placed a 1 amp diode on the 87 wire with band facing towards reverse light circuit as a safety precaution. The reasoning behind this is when I put my car in reverse and the rev light wire shows 12volts, I don't want the current to possible damage the relay circuit. Current only allowed in one direction on that wire.

jcs091570 wrote:

Ok here it is, Pin 86 and Pin 30 go to fused constant 12v... Pin 85 goes to dome light output of alarm (Blk/Wht) and Pin 87 taps into 12v reverse light wire. I placed a 1 amp diode on the 87 wire with band facing towards reverse light circuit as a safety precaution. The reasoning behind this is when I put my car in reverse and the rev light wire shows 12volts, I don't want the current to possible damage the relay circuit. Current only allowed in one direction on that wire.

cool I may get around to trying this out, if I can get my keyless entry working in the first place.. lol

Anyway I know you might not know, but I want to ask anyway. Should I use a relay on the original domelight supervision output wire to the factory wiring? My DEI system shows that the output wire can drive circuits up to 30 amperes. If not, I found a website that shows me how to wire up a relay to protect the DEI brain.

Oh by the way.. I used a standard Bosch 30/40amp 12vdc relay. Also, Pin 87a will supply 12volts when the relay is off. But when energized, it turns off. This can be handy to supply current to a device in your vehicle you wish to use when the alarm system is armed. I plan to hook it to my interior blue lights and Led lights under my vehicle to turn on when arming the car, and off when disarming. I will attach it to a switch to control when I want this function. Just watch amp draw on any circuit or relay.

what model DEI alarm do you have? Some have the onboard relay and some don't.

Avital 2101L

Its made by DEI

Also do I have to use the 87A on that circuit, or can I just leave it out?

No you won't need that. Is your dome light (door trigger) circuit negative or positive?

According to this site, it shows for a 1998 S10 :

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/521.html

So I guess it looks like the White (-) wire is my door trigger? Not sure where its going to be, but I guess I can use trial and error to locate it.

Also would you say that the H1/3 connection on the DEI needs to be grounded?

H1/3 BLACK/ White - DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION RELAY #87 (IN)

Is this the right diode to use?

https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productid=2036270

Yes that is the correct diode. And on the main alarm wire harness..I believe I made a mistake and said it was the H1/3 wire.. It is actually the H1/9 wire..it is black with a white stripe. Make sure it is the same with your Avital. I am sure it is. This wire will connect to Pin 85, 30 will go to ground (preferably the same point as your alarm brain and siren ground wires), 87 Pin goes to wire that goes negative on your truck (which is White) and 86 Pin to constant 12volt. You can connect that at the same 12volts your red wire from alarm connects to. Your White door trigger wire should be at the BCM right of the accelerator below the radio area. Use a volt meter to test it to make sure it is positive when door is closed and negative when opened. You can also connect the green wire from the alarm brain to the door trigger to activate the alarm if your doors get opened. You can actually just push in the door pin to make it easier. Let me know what you find out.

ok here is my wiring schematic I wrote in Wordpad. Sorry new computer and don't feel like downloading something to make it look better. Tell me what you think. Those are the wires that my brain has. 18 total but I think I will only be using about 12 of them.

https://www.filefactory.com/file/b183adc/n/Avital_2101L_wiring_schematic.rtf

Ok this is a different wiring harness than most DEI alarms but still color coded the same. So the H1/3 87 will go to the door/dome light -trigger wire which is white on your truck.. and the H1/4 wire 30 will go to ground. Let me know if the install guide states that to be sure.

I believe that you have the H1/3 and H1/4 backwards according to the manual. It says that the H1/3 wire determines what the output polarity of H1/4 will be. The H1/4 wire goes directly to the domelight circuit in the vehicle; which I am assuming is the (-) White?

Since your working with a keyless entry and not an alarm, use tan(-) at pin B4 of the purple plug at the BCM for domelight supervision. H1/3 to ground and H1/4 to the tan wire and you'll be good

blanx218 wrote:

Since your working with a keyless entry and not an alarm, use tan(-) at pin B4 of the purple plug at the BCM for domelight supervision. H1/3 to ground and H1/4 to the tan wire and you'll be good

that would only monitor the driver door correct? Since the wiring says the tan is for the drivers door, and the orange is for the passenger. Or does it not matter since this is a keyless entry?

@jcs091570

This is how I was going to wire it, let me know if you see any problems with my connections.

H1/1 - 12V FUSED
H1/2 - N/A
H1/3 - GROUND
H1/4 - (-) WHITE ON DOMELIGHT
H1/5 - (+) LT.BLUE DOOR LOCK
H1/6 - N/A
H1/7 - 12V FUSED
H1/8 - (+) WHITE DOOR LOCK
H1/9 - 12V FUSED
H1/10 - (+) BROWN PARKING LIGHTS
H1/11 - GROUND
H1/12 - SHOULD I CONNECT THIS CIRCUIT?
H1/13 - N/A
H1/14 - N/A
H1/15 - IGNITION (PINK)
H1/16 - SHOULD I CONNECT THIS CIRCUIT? THINKING ABOUT CONNECTING TO A STARTER KILL RELAY!
H1/17 - N/A
H1/18 - N/A

Also what should the 12V Fused wires be fused at? I have an external fuse block that I can have any ATC fuse in there up to 30A. Basically I was going to run my own new 16 or 14 AWG wiring with ATC fuses.

I wouldnt use the white wire at the domelight. At the light its a fairly high current circuit. I would use the tan door trigger. I've done it before on many S-10s and know it works. Since your domelight supervision is an output from the keyless entry you could use the orange or the tan. All your doing is tricking the car into thinking the door is open so the domelight comes on when you press unlock.

As far as the horn honk (H1/12) and starter kill (H1/16), those features are up to you. if anything I would probably do the starter kill to help prevent theft. but your truck has Passlock2 which also will prevent theft, so it really doesnt matter.

Forgot about your last part of the post. I always just go to the red wire in the ignition harness for 12v. You need to go there to get 12v switched anyhow. and you'll be there to do the starter kill too if you decide to do it

so everything else is good? I just don't want to fry anything by hooking something up wrong.

So that RED wire can handle everything?

yeah. the entire keyless entry will only draw a max of 15 amps. the 12v constant is a 60 amp circuit in your S-10 so you will be fine. even a 30 amp remote start is fine connected there.

OK I will probably be attempting this install over the weekend, because I still need to finish up the door lock circuits.

I will post back my status updates when available. Thanks

One more quick question.. I just bought this:

Ebay Item #200468207800

What color needs to go where?

the auction is over but i'm guessing its a starter kill. if you have orange, red, WHITE/ black, and black connect it as follows:

orange - ground when armed (pin 85)

red - +12volts constant (pin 86)

WHITE/ black - key side of yellow starter wire (pin 87a)

black - car side of yellow starter wire (pin 30)

It looks like it is a three wire in the picture. I don't actually have it in front of me right now, but I can see in the picture it has an orange, a white and a red wire coming from it. Also it has a diode running across two terminals.

well 3 wires on a relay will never work so it should be exactly as i put it in my last post. its a quick and easy install and will prevent the engine from cranking over when the doors are locked from the transmitter. just make sure you install the valet/program switch if it isnt already. it will allow you to override the starter kill in a case where you lose/break/dead battery with your transmitter

How about this setup...

posted_image

last question.. Can I connect the H1/12 BROWN (-) wire directly to the BLACK (-) wire on the truck for the horn, without a relay?

give it a shot. if it does work no worries. if not then you'll need a relay.

as far as the starter kill, i'd imagine from the diagram that the relay socket has it configured already so 3 connections will cover it. for it to work correctly with 3 wires the red wire would have to be connected to pins 86 and 87a in the socket itself

UPDATE:

One good thing, and a big bad thing has happened. Good thing is I have everything wired in the way I think its supposed to be, and the doors lock and unlock with the factory keyfobs like it should. Also the horn works just like it should..

Now for the bad thing. There is a draw on my battery that keeps killing it about a day later. I charge it, then next day boom dead.. What can be causing this. We have metered it to be a 3-amp draw on the battery.

For the relay socket, here is how the colors show:

87 - N/A
87a - white
86 - orange (diode)
85 - red (diode - band facing)
30 - red

There is a bridge between the 85 and 30 pins. I guess that is where the 3 wire setup comes from.. Anyway is that setup making the draw on my system? My dad thinks its the starter, but now I am thinking this relay config has something to do with it. Please post back. Thanks

Would this work, like you had said the relay needed to be before?

87 - N/A
87a - red
86 - orange (diode)
85 - red (diode - band facing)
30 - white

Jumper wire between pins 85 and 87a.

OR should it be like this:

87 - N/A
87a - red
86 - red (diode - band facing)
85 - orange (diode)
30 - white

Jumper wire between pins 86 and 87a.