2008 mazda 3 and viper

i have question regarding mazda 3..

this car has factory alarm..i know mazda3 without factory alarm is 1 wire system needs 1k resistor..

but with factory there is arm and disarm wire(with double pulse to unlock)..compustar has option to unlock before start and relock after start..that is not a problem..

but with dei product, there is no option to it..

what should i do? using lock/unlock from dei to arm/disarm wires to car side?it will disarm but won't unlock door right?

which way is the best?

1. arm(dei) to arm(car side) and use relay  with 1k resistor to lock/unlock wire(car side) to lock and disarm(dei) to disarm(car side) and unlock(dei) to unlock(car side)?

2. lock(dei) to arm(car side) and unlock(dei) to disarm(car side) and program ign lock and unlock? 

3. 2nd igntion to keysense wire to disarm without unlock door? or is this not working with mazda 3?

what viper system are you using?

arm is: BLACK/ blue (-) (In driver kick panel)
disarm is: BLACK/ white (-) (double pulse)

Increase door lock pulse to 3.5 seconds.

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Sylvain Rochon
MECP security specialist
Tech support for remote starters
26 Years of experience counts
I'm here to help.

look at RS5 or something called "200ma status output"

my paperwork says that it can be used to activate the "keysense" wire which turns off the factory anti-theft without unlocking the doors.

Did you try what I wrote, pdl in driver kick panel with 3.5 second pulse....I think you need double pulse to unlock...

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Sylvain Rochon
MECP security specialist
Tech support for remote starters
26 Years of experience counts
I'm here to help.

power up keysense, it will disarm.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Yes key sense will disarm in (+) but will disable oem remotes while in remote start mode. It's preferable to use the arm and disarm wires in the driver kick panel with door lock pulse programmed in 3.5 seconds.
connect your lock and re-arm wires together, do the same with unlock and disarm. While remote starting, the short pulse from the disarm wire will disarm the oem alarm without unlocking the doors, the 3.5 pulse of the power door lock wires will unlock all doors together in one shot. I've done hundreds that way and it works very good.

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Sylvain Rochon
MECP security specialist
Tech support for remote starters
26 Years of experience counts
I'm here to help.

I always use the purple 2nd starter (-) output to rearm on DEI stuff and lt GREEN/ black to disarm

syl20rochon wrote:

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Yes key sense will disarm in (+) but will disable oem remotes while in remote start mode. It's preferable to use the arm and disarm wires in the driver kick panel with door lock pulse programmed in 3.5 seconds.
connect your lock and re-arm wires together, do the same with unlock and disarm. While remote starting, the short pulse from the disarm wire will disarm the oem alarm without unlocking the doors, the 3.5 pulse of the power door lock wires will unlock all doors together in one shot. I've done hundreds that way and it works very good.

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good information, thank you, but a quick question.

would this setup also work if i were to program the door lock pulse to .8 seconds? i want to keep my factory setup, which is single pulse to unlock drivers door, double pulse opens all others.

im guessing a 3.5second pulse emulates a double pulse.

syl20rochon wrote:

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Yes key sense will disarm in (+) but will disable oem remotes while in remote start mode. It's preferable to use the arm and disarm wires in the driver kick panel with door lock pulse programmed in 3.5 seconds.
connect your lock and re-arm wires together, do the same with unlock and disarm. While remote starting, the short pulse from the disarm wire will disarm the oem alarm without unlocking the doors, the 3.5 pulse of the power door lock wires will unlock all doors together in one shot. I've done hundreds that way and it works very good.

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my mazda still unlocks the doors when it remote starts. i can't find a feature that i can turn off or on that could be the cause of it.

also, setting the 3.5 second door lock kills the ability to only unlock the drivers door, even with the remote keyless entry.







   

OK, Why are you making this difficult? You are adding an aftermarket alarm with remote start right?

So why are you arming the factory alarm. only hook up lock and unlock(double pulse) . One wire system. you dont even need relays. Just put 2 diodes inline so only allows negative out of the lock and unlock wires for disarm.

When remote starting make sure keysense(+) is energized at same time bypass module is. This way the door do not have to unlock at all.

Attention installers 2010 Mazda 3's most model do not have factory power door locks. The run on cable system. Allow 1 hour per door for install. You can use wires from factory running into all doors except passenger front door.

1, i wanted to post that so that others could read it. we all urge people to search first, but if noone follows up, we see the same questions over and over.

i found a wire that i can use as a keysense wire, but it's listed as such:

blue/white (-)200ma second status/defroster output

"this wire supplies a 200ma output as soon as the module begins the remote start process"

i guess i can use this, but it's listed as (-), but also says it's a 200ma output, which i've come to understand is a positive output meant to drive a relay.

if you see anything greater than 200ma its often used to drive a relay if the circuit requires a greater amperage draw.

for most apps, the 250ma will suffice, but if its neg and you need positive, a relay is needed without a doubt.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

well, is it a negative? the (-) part seems to suggest it's a negative output, but written below is "200ma output"

the only clue i can find comes from this warning on some of the AUX outputs that says "never use this wire to drive anything but a relay or low current input! this transistorized output can only supply 200ma."

so my guess is that this ground is only capable of handling 200ma of current because of how it's wired to the module. it's not a direct earth ground, the path of electrons travels through the remote start module, and asking it to supply the ground for a 12V circuit drawing more than 200ma will fry the module.

on the plus side of things, that's why the horn honk output doesn't work, because the relay is wired wrong (both sides of the coil are ground). now i have a free relay to wire up the keysense wire (as i need a positive output)

yay!