95 altima gxe srt 9000 need guidence
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=121807
Printed Date: July 07, 2025 at 5:00 PM
Topic: 95 altima gxe srt 9000 need guidence
Posted By: wizkid1
Subject: 95 altima gxe srt 9000 need guidence
Date Posted: May 12, 2010 at 5:50 PM
Im having a nervous breakdown on figuring out this install before i attempt it. i have the wiring diagrams and such but need some direction on a few things like it says i have 2 starter wires and they need to both be hooked up. how do i go about doing this? with a relay of some sort? also code alarm says i (must inturupt with a relay to prevent grind of starter during key takeover) on the accessory 2 wire. this also needs a relay? i have various diagrams witch contradict eachother to set these things up for instance i have an anti grind relay diagram but its saying cut the starter wire not accesory? how many relays do i actually need? some help would be much appreciated on this matter. ive had the alarm new in box for a year now and keep putting it off and dont want to spend 180 for an install around here. a little more info on my car like i said its a 95 Nissan altima gxe without antitheft.. i am attemping to install the Code alarm SRT-9000 (2way remote start and alarm)
Replies:
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: May 12, 2010 at 8:08 PM
The 95 Nissan Altima is an interesting car to do. There is a lot of conflicting information on the wire guide listings. Here is a link to the Bulldog Security web site: https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp They only list one ACC wire and have a Relay Isolation diagram for the connection. Fortunately, your car does not require a immobilizer bypass, that will save you time & money. Usually anti-grind is optional. When you do a key take-over you should be carefull and only turn the key to the IGN position. Usually, its only when you go too far, to Start, that you will get the grind... Here is a link to a pretty good install guide. https://www.designtech-intl.com/pdf/manuals/24923.pdf It is specifically for the Ready Remote R/S but on page 20 you will find a diagram of making two Starter outputs from one with a couple of relays. The relays are +12v SPDT 30/40 amp. This site has excellent info about relays and diodes that will also help. The wire listings sholud be considered a guide only and you should locate and verify all wires with a DMM. The DEI install guide explains how to test using a DMM or computer safe LED probe they supply in their kits. Additionally, all connections should be soldered and insulated with quality electric tape or heat shrink tube. Plan on a six hour install. That includes the time to carefully remove dash panels / steering column covers for access. Time to locate and verify the necessary wires. Positioning the R/S unit and making the connections. Then programming and testing. And finally putting the trim back on.
------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: wizkid1
Date Posted: May 12, 2010 at 11:00 PM
thanks much! youve relevied my headache like a bottle of asprin. but for clarification will i need two relays for the second starter wire setup as shown in the picture in that manual you mentioned?
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: May 13, 2010 at 6:07 AM
Yes, two relays are required. There is a way to do it with only one relay but for true R/S control and isolation, following that guide and using 2 relays will provide the desired results. Usually, most R/S units provide one IGN, one ACC & one Start output and they usually have a "5th relay" that is selectable for either IGN2, ACC2 or Start2. Check your Code alarm SRT-9000 install guide to see if it has the 5th relay. If your car has one Ignition, one Accessory and two Starter wires, you can configure your R/S's 5th relay for Start2 and you won't need the extra relays. It all depends on what you find while testing with the DMM. However, you will need one relay for the ACC wire isolation circuit. ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: May 13, 2010 at 8:33 AM
Look carefully through both the install guide and the features programming section.
Code Alarm is mostly just rebadged Audiovox product, but sometimes there are slight differences. I'm experienced with Audiovox but not very much with Code.
Anyway, where all the thick wires plug into the brain, you should have a heavy six-pin harness: Two constant inputs, and outputs for Ignition 1 and 2, Accessory, and Starter.
But, next to that, is there another large plug, with two heavy wires and one small one? If so, then your unit is already capable of a second starter output....the relay is on board. One of the thick wires should be another constant-power input, and the other thick wire acts as an Ignition 3 output by default.
Then, look into the programming section, that heavy Ignition 3 output should have selections for "as accessory" and "as starter." If you set it for "as starter," it'll be your second starter output and you won't need a relay.
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Regardless, you still need at least one relay to interrupt the car's accessory wire during remote start. If you don't do it, the starter will grind every time you attempt takeover, regardless of whether or not you're careful not to turn the key all the way to the "start" position.......the starter would grind every time without the relay.
Posted By: wizkid1
Date Posted: May 13, 2010 at 7:45 PM
thanks again for your guys help im not sure i have a second starter wire, i have two sides of the starter which is normal right? i also have a accessory 3 wire. heres the setup from inside my manual at this link https://i42.tinypic.com/2rmqt8i.jpg you can take a look and decipher it a bit
Posted By: wizkid1
Date Posted: May 14, 2010 at 12:41 AM
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: May 17, 2010 at 6:03 AM
You will definitely need to test each wire at the ignition switch with a DMM due to the conflicting information. Most wire listings agree on the Battery, Ignition and 2 Starter wires. If you find that your car also has 2 accessory wires, only the "Red going to BLACK/ Pink" wire should require the isolation relay to prevent starter grind during key take-over. (The WHITE/ Blue accessory wire does not have a note about relay isolation beside it.) Going by your R/S chart, your system is pre-wired for starter kill. Hence the Starter In and Starter Out wires. Check the installation guide to see if you can just use the Starter Output and tape off Starter Input. This Starter Output will go to a pair of relays to create the 2 Starter outputs your car needs. Follow the previously refferenced DEI guide for relay wiring. I am not familiar with Code units ( I use Compustar & Ultra Start ) but maybe Chris Luongo can provide input from his AudioVox experience on the Starter Kill and "pulse during crank". Your R/S provides 2 accessory outputs. If your testing finds two accessory wires, ACC1 can go directly to the cars WHITE/ Blue wire but ACC2 should be connected to the "Red to BLACK/ Pink" accessory wire as per this "Accessory Isolation" circuit: https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/extrainfo/diagrams/14301_ALTIMA_NISSAN%20ACCESSORY%20ISOLATION%20CIRCUIT.pdf
------------- Soldering is fun!
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