viper160xv

how to reprogram my viper 160XV with the use of bitwriter
I am just getting a long continuous honk on the horn when the brown wire is connected to the horn

HOW do you program the 160xv WITH a bitwriter?  Or WITHOUT a bitwriter?

As soon as you hook the Brown wire up to the horn the horn blows?   Or the horn trigger OUTPUT is programmed for too long?

i never did any programing to it. Just took it out the box and installed it. yes as soon as the wires are connected the horn blows

Is this unit grounded or even wired properly? Or press the disarm button on the remote. Some units will trigger a full alarm on powering up.

yes it is

So the modulr has power and ground, and the Brown wire has a constant ground on it?  If so, the module is bad.  Where did you get/buy it?

I had a few 160Xv/5500 modules LOSE their horn output, but never a latched horn output.

I even had one that wouldnt honk for lock/unlock, but worked for panic!

If we can assume that brown wire sits on ground at rest and you've wired the siren red to live and black to the brown that would do it.
I believe the brown sits on either ground or open circuit (never had to find out!)
It then outputs 12volts in alarm trigger mode.

Horn or siren? Doesn't the horn output signal ground and the siren 12volts! Have you tried the valet button?

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

ok. yes it is 12 volt yes i tried the valet button. a friend brough the alarm for me it was just sitting at home a while because i had a manual car so i didnt installed it.

it didn't come with a siren that's why the horn was used.
I got a siren and installed it this afternoon and try do some programming so far so good just have to do the dome light.
but the driver doors not locking down when i arm it

The 160XV is a remote start, what are you talking about ALARM?

And yes it's 12 volts, but do you mean positive or negative?

yea it is alarm with remote start. negative

What car?

toyota funcargo

Have you found your lock and unlock wires on the car, should be low current neg, AKA type "B" in the driver's kick panel.
Test as following:
Should be a loom coming from the door into either one or two white plugs. Take a Snap On test probe with an incandescent bulb (forget DMMs this is faster), place the croc clip on a good ground (steering column or a bolt in the kick panel) place the probe end into each terminal on those plugs, make sure the key isn't in the ignition and the door catch is turned (at rear of door). That should give you your lock and unlock wires. Also make sure your lock/unlocks from the 160 go to neg on lock and unlock.

yes i found the wires already