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viper 5701, 07 mazda3?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=121919
Printed Date: April 27, 2024 at 6:43 PM


Topic: viper 5701, 07 mazda3?

Posted By: ctdubbin
Subject: viper 5701, 07 mazda3?
Date Posted: May 20, 2010 at 10:13 AM

first off, you guys are awesome.

second off, i'd like your help.

the car is an 07 mazda 3 and the alarm is the Viper 5701 pink edition and the bypass module is a DEI PKFM

1. in its programmed state, what is the status LED on the PKFM supposed to do? i tried programming it, and now it blinks in unison with the factory security light. is that what it's supposed to do? the programming method said to insert the keys into the cylinder, etc. then remote start the car. i did all that but when i went to remote start, it didn't start. (afterwards i realized that the hoodpin wire hadn't been hooked to anything, and neither had the factory arm/disarm wire)

2. what's the best way to turn off the anti-theft system to remote start?

- i can use the Keysense Wire (which i'd have to make up a relay for) does the Key sense wire turn off the factory alarm in this application?

3. how would I deal with my door triggers? per the datasheet:

"These wires may rest at ground with the doors closed and go to an open circuit when the doors are opened"

does this sound right? i don't want to fry my G/F's BCM, they're probably expensive

posted_image



Replies:

Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 20, 2010 at 1:45 PM
There's a DEI part, I think Mazda2 for the door pins, yes they use a "back to front " door pin where they go to ground when the door is closed and revert to open circuit when the door is opened.
The diagramme refers to an earlier Ford system it's on this site known as DEI 1076. Diode blocking is used as an alternative to either strap-up resistors or a relay.




Posted By: blanx218
Date Posted: May 20, 2010 at 8:52 PM
heres a link to a diagram to connect these door triggers... https://directechs.com/tech_docs/Document10556-1456.pdf...you can also use the domesupervision wire BLACK/ blue or BLACK/ red in the pass. kick if you're not worried about domelight delay




Posted By: ctdubbin
Date Posted: May 20, 2010 at 11:36 PM
i'll use the latch wires that's fine, is there any where else that diagram is available? i can't get onto directechs.com, they won't let me sign up :(




Posted By: ctdubbin
Date Posted: May 21, 2010 at 12:02 AM
also, the DEI 452 (the module referred to by a previous poster) is a $35 part.....

so i'm gonna hold out for someone with access to directechs.com or that information, and also throw this up here:

https://www.12voltdata.com/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=1412

and this (for the people like me who have only a basic understanding of BCM and door trigger theory)

THE FOLLOWING ARE JUST MADE UP NUMBERS TO EXPLAIN A POINT, NOT ACTUAL FIGURES!!!


Door trigger, Ok this is how it works: There is a wire in your car that runs from the PCM to the doorpins. The amount of voltage running on this wire when a door is tripped is not enough (not 12 volt) to set off an aftermarket alarm. So, if you only connect the doorpin trigger wire from the alarm, even with the doorpin tripped it's not going to set off you alarm. So, someone realised this and calculated just the right amount of power(12voltsw/ serperate 10k ohm resistors) to send the doorpins so they would be powerful enough to trip the alarm when opened but not to powerful so that it triggers your door open light on your dash. So basicly, a real simple way to look at it: your alarm needs to see 12 volts to go off. your car only send 8 volts to the PCM when a door is tripped. So by putting a constant 4 volts on the wire it will be enough to allow the alarm to see 12 volts when a door trips, but not so much that the constant 4 volts will effect any other use of doorpins (door open lights or domelights). You must use diodes to block the doorpins from grounding out through each other. Basicly serperate them so they don't have any affect on each other.




Posted By: ctdubbin
Date Posted: May 24, 2010 at 2:44 PM
im gonna try it without any 12V pullup on the wires, and take it from there.

thanks for the help.




Posted By: ctdubbin
Date Posted: June 02, 2010 at 9:51 PM
so i did it today, and it worked fine without the 12V pullup on the wires. alarm goes off when u open the doors, no door ajar lights or anything in the dash. thanks a lot to everyone that helped me out with this stuff.

all i needed to do was to split and diode isolate the 12v door trigger wire.








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