Print Page | Close Window

compustar 2w900fmas vs fortin key overrid

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=122073
Printed Date: April 26, 2024 at 12:10 AM


Topic: compustar 2w900fmas vs fortin key overrid

Posted By: jobber29
Subject: compustar 2w900fmas vs fortin key overrid
Date Posted: May 31, 2010 at 10:03 AM

Hi all! I just want to know if it is possible to connect the Fortin keyoverride SL2 bypass module on the compustar 2W900FMAS remote starter? Because the CM3000 brain do not have the Rs232 plug... Thank you!



Replies:

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: May 31, 2010 at 11:04 AM
It is still possible to use the Fortin KeyOveride SL2 with the CM3000 brain.  Just go with the W2W mode ( listed in the SL2 install guide as "Without Data-Link").   Usually works flawlessly.

-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: dswift
Date Posted: June 02, 2010 at 12:24 PM
Was this a trick question? posted_image

-------------
"dont ground out!"




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: June 03, 2010 at 6:22 AM

ask kregs mentioned. it will work if wired in w2w which i beleive how all cars should be done.



-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: dswift
Date Posted: June 03, 2010 at 11:52 AM

tedmond you don't use 2way data protocols (rs232)?



-------------
"dont ground out!"




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: June 03, 2010 at 3:31 PM

no, but then again its just my preferance. Sure it does save time but i ran it so many problems im not willing to give it another chance. I have given the rs232 second chances but i keep getting screwed over. So, no more data for me. all w2w.



-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: dswift
Date Posted: June 04, 2010 at 6:08 PM
What were the issues and how long ago was it? Due tell.

-------------
"dont ground out!"




Posted By: dswift
Date Posted: June 04, 2010 at 6:10 PM
Also what units and what bypasses would help as well.

-------------
"dont ground out!"




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: June 04, 2010 at 6:25 PM

compustar cm5000 + cansl2

no hood/trunk status didnt work half the time.

compustar cm5200 + idatalink

no door trigger
bad tach output

about 3-5 months ago. but i dont mind the w2w not much more to hookup, and if something goes wrong, i can pinpoint it.



-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: dswift
Date Posted: June 04, 2010 at 6:39 PM

Well the Cm6 and the data protocols are good.

For the cansl2 or now which is the CANSL-PL has good data to data with the compustar controllers. Make sure you change option 2-11 to setting number 2. Switching it from ADS to Fortin.

As for the ADS and the cm5 series controllers the only Tach issue i ran into were for the Gm's. Maybe you should give the CM6 a try. =)



-------------
"dont ground out!"




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: June 05, 2010 at 7:01 PM
i think i will. I like the features on the cm6x00. so much more flexible

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: jobber29
Date Posted: June 20, 2010 at 8:36 PM

Ok, thank you for the answer! I have an other question, Is it necessary to use the 2nd ignition, 2nd starter or 2nd accessorie relay on a 2010 mazda 3? or I can simply cut the relay wire?





Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: June 20, 2010 at 8:54 PM

you shouldnt need any of them.

from what i remeber it has 2 acc wires, but one controls the radio only. if in doubt, power up all acc and ign wires.



-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: jobber29
Date Posted: June 20, 2010 at 9:10 PM
Yes the car have 2 acc wires. one of them is pink and the other is white. The pink wire is smaller than the white. If i'm logical, the pink should power the radio... I will not use the 2nd acc relay only to power up the radio.




Posted By: jobber29
Date Posted: June 21, 2010 at 6:37 AM

I forgot to ask what to do for the clutch bypass... I think that I have to use the (-) status wire from the brain. Does i'm right? If i'm right, I have a problem because this wire is already used to communicate with the key bypass module...





Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: June 21, 2010 at 6:43 AM

i dont like to use the status wire to bypass the clutch. you still can use this, just diode isolate them if you are powering up more than 1 item.

i often take the 2nd negative start wire and use that to bypass the clutch.



-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: jobber29
Date Posted: June 21, 2010 at 7:17 AM

Do you mean this wire?

Pin #5: RED / Black- This wire is a (-) 2nd Starter 200mA output. Normally the only vehicle this would be used on Nissan’s and older Ford’s. You may connect this wire to the purple pigtail of the additional
relay on CN #1. This will result in a (+) trigger output for the 2nd starter on the blue wire of the same relay.

Do you know what is the color of the clutch swich wire? And is it really a negative wire?





Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: June 21, 2010 at 7:27 AM
Re the 2 ACC wires.  Sometimes logic doesn't work with cars.  If you only connect the Compustar to one ACC wire, check to make sure the Heat & A/C work under remote start before putting away your soldering gun.  The thin Pink ACC wire just might be used to trigger a high current relay...

-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: June 21, 2010 at 11:13 AM

power up both acc wires, i just checked and you do need both (called up my friend that did his mazda 3) posted_image



-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: jobber29
Date Posted: June 21, 2010 at 11:40 AM
Ok I will plug the 2nd accessorie relay. Thank you very much!




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: June 21, 2010 at 9:18 PM
no problem. im sure you will be happy with the compustar when its all said and done.

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: jobber29
Date Posted: June 22, 2010 at 9:34 AM
Tedmond can you ask to your friend about the wiring of parking light wiring? because I have plugged the parking light wire ( + orange from the driver kick panel) on the remote starter (+ GREEN / WHITE) and It do not light when I push the tachometer learning button. although I can hear the relay click in the brain module. Is it possible that I have to use the negative parking light output from the remote starter brain module?




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: June 22, 2010 at 12:41 PM

he used a negative trigger.

its located at the at the BCM above drivers kick panel.

tap into the NEGATIVE grey wire @ the headlight switch or BCM. If you go to the BCM, its a  blue 24 pin plug (B), second row pin 2.



-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: jobber29
Date Posted: June 22, 2010 at 7:30 PM
Ok I have plugged the relay for the clutch bypass I have also plugged the parking light on the grey wire at the headlight switch and it work !! I have an other question , where can I pass the tachometer wire through the firewall?? Maybe I can connect the tach wire somewhere on the BCM module? I think that after my installation I will do a tutorial for the 2010 mazda 3 because it is difficult to find information and wiring diagrams...




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: June 23, 2010 at 1:28 PM

its not difficult when you got access to astrochart or fortin wirecolour posted_image

look for any grommet, around the clutch pedal, there should be anopening.

i got a diy in the downloads as well for the accord.



-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: jobber29
Date Posted: June 24, 2010 at 1:07 PM
Ok the best place I have found is to pass the tach wire in the hole of the hood release wire.  Now the final question is... where is the blue 24 pin connector (F) at the BCM module because the only blue 24pin connector I have found is (B) (located at the front of BCM module when you are sit on the driver seat) I can see 2 others connectors on the side of the BCM module but this connectors are white. Also I need  the pinout of this connector (F) ? because I need to find the blue (-) wire for door trigger. Finally do I need relay for doors lock & unlock?




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: June 24, 2010 at 5:48 PM

just take your dmm and test for the wire. companies use differant letterings for their connectors because of placement.



-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: jobber29
Date Posted: June 24, 2010 at 5:57 PM
Ok to test it I have to have continuity between the door trigger wire and ground when the door is open?




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: June 24, 2010 at 9:52 PM

door triggers are in a WHITE 24 pin plug, its on the side of the BCM.

shoot me a pm, ill have something that will help you.



-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: June 24, 2010 at 9:55 PM
the blue plug i was refering to was for the negative parking lights.

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: jobber29
Date Posted: June 24, 2010 at 10:31 PM
I know that the blue plug that you have talked about before was for the parking light. I speak about blue plug connector (F) for door trigger because I have found a wiring diagram at the bulldog security website and this wiring diagram said:  "DOOR TRIGGER  BLUE (-) N.C.   @ BCM, (BLUE, 24-PIN PLUG(F), PIN G"




Posted By: jobber29
Date Posted: June 25, 2010 at 3:58 PM
Now  I have found de blue wire (-)  for door trigger when I try to remote start the car, the parking lights flashing 3 times (open door error...)




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: June 25, 2010 at 10:45 PM
check your pm

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: jobber29
Date Posted: June 26, 2010 at 10:37 PM
It work but only if I don't use diode, I don't understand why... Now all is working, remote starter, door lock/unlock & alarm system. Thank you very much for your help. Now I will do a tutorial for remote starter installation in 2010 Mazda 3.




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: June 27, 2010 at 4:40 PM

you need the diodes or you will have backfeed onto your BCM.

the bcm has negative inputs, if you sent 12v to it, you will smoke the bcm. make sure you have the diodes the correct way.



-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: jobber29
Date Posted: June 27, 2010 at 8:16 PM

I have put diodes for the door trigger and it is working. I suppose that I have to put a diode on the (-) 2nd starter wire used to activated the clutch bypass relay and put the cathode side on the relay side?





Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: June 27, 2010 at 9:43 PM

when i do clutch bypasses, i dont use diodes. the unit themselves have diodes to prevent backfeed, but if using a relay, its not necessary.

you can put one across the coils to prevent voltage spike, but its not necessary for your application



-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert





Print Page | Close Window