alarm missing ground when armed

Hi Folks,

I am a novice but am almost finished with an install of a StarDrive alarm. Would not recommend it BTW. But my question is that it does not have a Ground when Armed lead. I would like to hook up some DEI accessories that seem to require GWA. I actually used the search and found a schematic on how to make a latched relay and actually found a schematic on how to build a solid state device for the same. I can handle the relay, but not the solid state stuff.

Anyway, I have a lead on the system that provides a short ground when armed and another lead that provides a short ground when disarmed. But I am not sure how to transform the diagram below to give me the constant ground when armed signals off those two momentary signals. Can anyone please point me to a diagram that might help me build something like that?



Also, I am not sure if this will drain my battery so quick that I just should not bother. I could see how having a bunch of these relays energized for a couple of days could kill a battery.

send the wiring diagram of the alarm and let me know what options you are trying to hook up

A simpler way would be to use a "latching " relay triggered by the central locking. for instance Maplin UK N38AW latching relay, about $5

Either way having those relays energized whilst the car is off is not wise!

-------------
COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

howie ll wrote:

---

A simpler way would be to use a "latching " relay triggered by the central locking. for instance Maplin UK N38AW latching relay, about $5

---

I could not find a source for those here in the US. Certainly we must import something similar from China!

Does it have an LED wire?  Most alarm LED wires are GWA.  At least they used to be many many years ago.  Wire for starter kill relay should also be GWA.  If they are no longer like this somebody let him know.

Mr. I probably has the answer ref starter kill, T&T, latching relays don't draw any juice, I used one for ages on a Clifford Solaris with only one aux, made the aux trunk release when disarmed and headlight flash for 10 secs. through a 528t when armed. You normally have a DIL package with 6 terminals for DPCO and 4 for the 2 coils, with 2 (86) at constant 12 volt+, the 2 (85) then get sequentially triggered by a spur (diode blocked of course) from the lock and unlock NEG wires. The joy is it can be triggered either way (pos or neg)and the 2 DPCOs give you lots of flexibility.

i am an idiot wrote:

---

Does it have an LED wire? Most alarm LED wires are GWA. At least they used to be many many years ago. Wire for starter kill relay should also be GWA. If they are no longer like this somebody let him know.

---

Unfortunately not on this particular system

howie ll wrote:

---

Mr. I probably has the answer ref starter kill, T&T, latching relays don't draw any juice, I used one for ages on a Clifford Solaris with only one aux, made the aux trunk release when disarmed and headlight flash for 10 secs. through a 528t when armed. You normally have a DIL package with 6 terminals for DPCO and 4 for the 2 coils, with 2 (86) at constant 12 volt+, the 2 (85) then get sequentially triggered by a spur (diode blocked of course) from the lock and unlock NEG wires. The joy is it can be triggered either way (pos or neg)and the 2 DPCOs give you lots of flexibility.

---

Got a linky to such a relay available in the US? I found some 5VDC and some others, but nothing for 12VDC.

A quick answer because the football (soccer) is starting in a few moments, I tried Farnell because they are the US equivalent of RS components here, don't think they're connected but their on-line sites are identical, also Maplin Electronics UK similar to Radio Shack list it. I'll go through the relay section of the RS catalogue and pick out some manufacturer's numbers for you but about 2 hrs. time!
Where are you in Florida?

OK, hasn't kicked off yet so OMRON G6BK 1114P-US12DC twin coils so if you have pos going locks, you constant ground the neg coil side and vice versa with neg going locks, sustained 5 amp current on the DPDT switch side, this will give you either a GWA or a 12V+WA, told you it was versatile. Look up Farnell, quote the part number I've given you.

6985567 is the Farnell US part number

howie ll wrote:

---

6985567 is the Farnell US part number

---

Thank you very much. Got it. $6 :) Is there a socket for this or does one generally just carefully solder wires directly to the pins? I searched for the socket # P6B-06P but did not seem to find it.

The help to this newbie is very much appreciated!

Solder

Just a thought, when you make the connections, after the join insert a couple of inline diodes (1N4004) on the lock and unlock wires AFTER the join, if neg pulse locks, band towards join, if pos pulse do the opposite, this will prevent locking the doors bringing on the armed output.

Can someone please help me in understanding this diagram for this relay?

I take pins 3 & 4 are the output of the relay.

Applying 12V to Pins 1 & 6 close the relay? (3 & 4 will close)

Applying 12V to Pins 2 & 7 will open the relay (3 & 4 will open)?

I tried that and the resistance on pins 3 & 4 did not change.



Any guidance would be most appreciated!

If your locks are negative going, apply constant 12v+ to 6 and 7, then ground 1 for 1 sec. You should hear the relay click and 3 and 4 she be continuous and stay that way. then apply ground for 1 second to 2.
This should open the circuit between 3 and 4 continuously.

Ah, I figured it out.

Applying 12V to Pins 1 & 6 open the relay - (3 & 4 will open)

Applying 12V to Pins 2 & 7 will close the relay - (3 & 4 will close)

Howie II - Thank you very much for this invaluable guidance. It works perfectly. No power drain at all with the latching relay. All those DEI accessories that depend on GWA are now perfectly functional. I cannot express my gratitude in walking this newbie thru this.