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removed rattler 300 now car won’t start

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=122321
Printed Date: March 29, 2024 at 12:25 AM


Topic: removed rattler 300 now car won’t start

Posted By: eggs
Subject: removed rattler 300 now car won’t start
Date Posted: June 16, 2010 at 11:22 AM

Hi all,

I'm new to the12volt and hope I've posted this query in the proper location.

I have a 2000 Hyundai Sonata, from which I've removed a Rattler 300 (after market vehicle security system) and now the vehicle refuses to start. Please note, the alarm system had been installed by an electronics superstore and not by me.

The online Rattler 300 installation manual can be found here: https://www.directed.com/guides/manuals/ig/rattler/N431R.pdf

While the battery cables were disconnected, I removed the Rattler 300 control module. I cut and taped 6 alarm system harness wires that were joined to my vehicle's wiring using a "tap soldering" method.

Of the 6 alarm system harness wires:

4 wires were blue, green, yellow, and white and originated from the 12-pin primary harness

2 wires were blue and green both with black stripes and originated from the 6-pin door lock harness.

In addition, one yellow wire from my vehicle--which I believe to be the vehicle's 12 gauge ignition wire--was cut and each end was "butt soldered" to the ends of black wires (2) originating from the 2-pin starter kill harness port of the alarm control module.

Due to the tight quarters around the yellow wire mentioned above, as well as its reduced length, I opted to leave the bisected yellow wire as is. Instead, I cut each of the black wires (that were "butt soldered" to the bisected yellow) at their midpoints, stripped the ends, twisted them together and taped.

At this point, when I went to start the car, there was silence, with dashboard lights dimly flickering. At this point, I figured the battery had been drained due the alarm being set off several times while I tried to figure out what was wrong with it.

So I used one of those battery charger/jumper boxes with a 75 amp setting to jump start my car, thinking if the nearly 6 year old battery was dead or weakly charged, that the car should still start. But it did not. (The battery terminals were clean and the connections were tight--red clamp to battery's positive terminal and black clamp to screw on engine block.)

While the dashboard lights flickered the same as during the first start attempt, this time there was a sound kind of like a playing card in the moving spokes of a bicycle tire or perhaps a little like the sound a woodpecker makes.

I would greatly appreciated any ideas anyone might have to offer.

Thanks,
Emily

P.S. My finances are a bit tight right now and this is why I'm trying to resolve this issue myself.







Replies:

Posted By: eggs
Date Posted: June 16, 2010 at 11:39 AM
Hi again,

Sorry meant to include this last bit of possibly relevant info:

I removed the Rattler 300 as a result of:

1. the siren triggering while attempting to start the car one day

2. the siren failing to silence while using the key chain remote powered by working battery

3. the refusal of the car to start during and since this event

Thanks again.

Emily




Posted By: roadshop570
Date Posted: June 16, 2010 at 12:01 PM
Sounds like starter wire is not connected properly, pull up the wiring diagram for your car then cut out any old butt connectors and clean it up add wire where needed, use soldering iron and heat shrink if possible, hope this can help. 

-------------
Chadillac




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 16, 2010 at 4:50 PM
You could test by baring some cable from either side of the yellow wire that was cut and rejoined to see if the starter motor lead is now OK, BUT if you get these sounds ONLY when you turn the key to the start/run position, then it's time to change your battery!
Also all those joins should really be soldered. Was your mum into the Bronte Sisters?




Posted By: topinstaller200
Date Posted: June 16, 2010 at 10:56 PM

Well you took out a perfectly good alarm for no reason.

They way your alarm acted prior to you removing it is because your battery is no good.

Replace your battery and all your problems will go away instantly.

Dont tell me you had your battery tested or it looks fine or the lights and radio works.

BAD BATTERY





Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 17, 2010 at 12:40 AM
How many times have we (as pros) heard "the alarm's draining the battery". In truth it's the other way round and when the battery's voltage drops below a certain level, the alarm "thinks" the ignition is being turned on and triggers.




Posted By: eggs
Date Posted: June 17, 2010 at 3:16 PM
Much thanks to everyone who took the time to read and respond to my post.

I will get a new battery and report how it goes. ...If that doesn't work, perhaps I'll try cutting out the butt soldering on the ignition wire and "cleaning it up."

@ howie II: No, my mum does not have a particular interest in the Bronte sisters, nor the Pointer Sisters. I think she just likes English names.




Posted By: eggs
Date Posted: July 05, 2010 at 7:14 PM
Hi all,

Just a status update:

I brought my old battery back to the local auto parts store where they tested it and told me it was still in good condition (12.5 volts of starting power).

And I remembered what topinstaller200 advised, "Replace your battery and all your problems will go away instantly. ...Dont tell me you had your battery tested."

So, I got a new battery and success! My car started up! :) :)

Thanks!







Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: July 06, 2010 at 1:31 AM
Glad everything is OK, thanks for the courtesy of letting us know.




Posted By: skinnytitan
Date Posted: January 26, 2011 at 1:52 AM
Hi guys,

I'm having the same situation with a rattler 300 in my 2001 4runner. Except, even though I replaced my battery, but I believe my rattler's kill switch has been activated and won't turn off because the car still doesn't even turn over.
Also odd, is no other electronics work, no dome light, no headlights... but when I toggle my alarm on and off with the key fob, all lights flash... so I'm getting juice.

I don't want to remove my rattler, I want to reset it and turn off the kill switch so I can start my car.

I have the key fob and it works. I can arm and disarm the alarm fine. Yet even after disarming, it won't start. I can even put the alarm in valet mode (LED solid red), still no start.
I have tried pressing the valet switch with all sorts of ignition key combinations, on, press, off, press 2ce, etc... To no avail.

Any idea how to reset the kill switch and re-enable the rattler to still function as before?
thanks
-t




Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: January 28, 2011 at 7:26 AM
skinnytitan wrote:

Hi guys,

I'm having the same situation with a rattler 300 in my 2001 4runner. Except, even though I replaced my battery, but I believe my rattler's kill switch has been activated and won't turn off because the car still doesn't even turn over.
Also odd, is no other electronics work, no dome light, no headlights... but when I toggle my alarm on and off with the key fob, all lights flash... so I'm getting juice.

I don't want to remove my rattler, I want to reset it and turn off the kill switch so I can start my car.

I have the key fob and it works. I can arm and disarm the alarm fine. Yet even after disarming, it won't start. I can even put the alarm in valet mode (LED solid red), still no start.
I have tried pressing the valet switch with all sorts of ignition key combinations, on, press, off, press 2ce, etc... To no avail.

Any idea how to reset the kill switch and re-enable the rattler to still function as before?
thanks


Check your main vehicle fuses. I don't think this is an alarm problem. Prior to changing the battery, did you happen to jump start it, and possibly reverse the positive and negative connections?

-------------
Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 29, 2011 at 5:28 AM
Had the same problem with a Yaris about 2 years ago, the (major) Toyota dealership blaming the after market alarm.
Constant live was going into the under dash fuse box/relay panel but not going from there to the ignition switch.
I simply looped round it and got the car going in about 10 mins.
Makes you wonder, it had been at the dealership for 4 days with no luck, the owner called me in above the dealer's protests.
So poster check ALL your fuses on each fusebox, 2 I believe, check if there are any fuses mounted on the batt+ lead, also check for any ground cables where the bolts might be loose.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: skinnytitan
Date Posted: January 29, 2011 at 4:40 PM
Thanks guys.

I checked and one of the 140A fuses in the under-the-hood fuse box was blown. I put foil over that one to bridge it and the car now turns over. But it still doesn't start.

It cranks very well, with a new battery and everything. I believe the alarm kill switch problem can be eliminated. But could it be other issues?
a... Could the car alarm have cut off something else like the ignition switch?
b... My spark plugs could be bad, It is cold out. I may try replacing them.
c... How would I know if it's a frozen fuel pump? It's about 32 degrees in my Garage (mid west)

d... Could there be a 2nd fuse that would keep the ignition from sparking ?

thanks - t




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 29, 2011 at 5:11 PM
First point change the fuse, that foil is a fire risk, and in the engine bay.
You have at least 2 other fuse locations, have you checked them?
Freezing point won't damage either your fuel pump or spark plugs.
If you want our help get that meter out and start testing.
Highly unlikely to be anything mechanical, YOU have to tell us if there's an ignition cut, I doubt it but I'm 4000 miles away.
Also, could you check to see if the vehicle's OEM security light is going out when you turn the key?

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: skinnytitan
Date Posted: January 30, 2011 at 6:07 PM
Howie II, Good lookin out.

The "Ignition" fuse under the dash is also blown! That's easy to fix.

So, in summary... Both Fuses (under the hood, and under the dash) were blown. I fixed the one under the hood with foil as a temporary solution, just to get it to the dealer where he can remove the fuse box and replace it. The 2nd one is just plug and go.

It hasn't started yet, but I'm confident it will.
I wonder if my Rattler kill switch blew them out, or just regular jumping of the 1st battery as it was dying.

Thanks forum. Fuses it is!
-tjb




Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: January 30, 2011 at 7:08 PM
Regular jumping shouldn't have blown them. Reversing your jumper cables would have.

-------------
Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 31, 2011 at 3:49 AM
And stop blaming the alarm! It would have fried to a crisp before blowing 140 amps or even 40 amps.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: skinnytitan
Date Posted: May 23, 2011 at 10:10 AM
I pulled the fuse out leading to the Rattler box itself. No cut wires. Just look for the fuse and pull it. This Disables the alarm and allowed my car to start. Do you have access to the push button switch within the car? I had to play around with that in combination with the key ignition to get it to stop beeping.

If your kill switch was engaged (doubtful though) you may have to re-splice the ignition wires. Rattler's manuals are online and they show which + and - wires were used to go in and out of the box for ignition. That's the very last thing i'd try though. Usually your key and the push button under the steering wheel are enough to stop the beeps.

Finally, I was able to get a new remote for about $40 at https://www.directed.com/ You can program it to match your alarm.

Good Luck




Posted By: maddogg068
Date Posted: June 19, 2011 at 7:48 AM
G'day guys i'm from the land down under Brisbane to be precise i have a rattler 300 in my R33 skyline and as i was trying to install a CB radio, i pushed the valet button cause i didn't know it was there as i bought the car from a car yard and the alarm was already fitted by the previous owner as i've had the car for 6 years now i can't get in touch with whoever installed it. I downloaded the manual from the internet and followed the instructions but i still have no ignition or acceseries i have only got headlights and interior light i can however acctivate /de acctivate the alarm with the remote but not with the valet button as per insructions any help would be appreciated thank you  

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Maddog068




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 19, 2011 at 10:39 AM
1) The battery needs replacing.
2) See if there's a starter cut probably a relay with orange and yellow coil wires + two thick wires, join the thick wires together.
See diagram.untitled.bmp

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: maddogg068
Date Posted: June 20, 2011 at 5:08 AM

G'day guys thanks for the info i've mannaged to fix it with a mate coming over you know 2 heads are better than 1 anyhow the problem had nothing to do with the alarm at all , some how the wiring loom from the ignition switch had become disconnected and that all it was so again thanks for the help cause it did help everything pointed to power not getting to the switch as you had said previosly and yea i checked ALL the fuses as the car has a boot mounted battery that took some time cause i had to remove two amps and the board they attached too to get to the main fuse box wich is right next to the battery so thanks again and i'll talk to you next time i have problems hopefully not though



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Maddog068





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