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50.7x alarm r/s and locks

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=122361
Printed Date: April 29, 2024 at 7:23 AM


Topic: 50.7x alarm r/s and locks

Posted By: hawks
Subject: 50.7x alarm r/s and locks
Date Posted: June 20, 2010 at 8:10 PM

I am installing a Clifford 50.7x on a 2005 Dodge Neon.  I have everything working properly on the alarm side except the rear doors do not trigger the alarm when opened.  I thought the passenger door trigger (tan&blk) would control the rear doors too.  Unless someone has a better suggestion I am thinking of taking the green door - input off the door triggers and connecting it to the domelight covering all four doors.  I guess I could also leave the front doors as they are and use the violet door + and a relay run to the domelight for the back doors.

I can't get the remote start to work.  Here is how I have it wired up.  I have the alarm set for manual transmission and virtual tach.

Pink ignition 1 to Dark blue +

RED / White 12v+ constant to pink/black constant 12v+

Orange accessory to BLACK/ orange

Violet starter to yellow starter side

Green starter to yellow key side

Red 12v+ constant to red constant 12v+

pink/white flex relay to RED / white (with auto stick only)

pink/black flex relay contact 87a I am not using

RED / black 12v+ constant to pink/black constant 12v+

I have the hood pin mounted and connected and the tach wire connected to the coil pack.  I have double checked and all connections are good.  I either wired incorrectly or the transponder bypass is not working.  I am using a DEI XK531 door lock & transponder bypass module and as far as I can tell it programmed correctly.  I first thought that maybe it was because the clutch needed to be pressed in so I sat in the car and still got a remote start error even with the clutch pushed in. 

One wire - locks?  This alarm has reversing polarity outputs and I am completely stumped here as I have yet to come across this lock setup on a vehicle.  Do I use a relay on each output and wire it up like converting a + trigger to a - trigger along with the ressitors.  I do have the door lock/transponder bypass but I am a little confused on how it works.  I made a D2D wire for it but what the heck is it suppose to do?  The directions say on the W2W connections to connect it's door lock wires to the alarm lock and unlock output wires which the way I read it the D2D wire should do instead if used.  And, a wire that is suppose to connect to the door trigger input wire which again the way I read it the D2D wire should do instead if used.  Did I possible make the D2D wire incorrectly?  Do the wires mirror each other or go left to righ on both modules?

Any help or troubleshooting suggestions we be greatly appreciated.




Replies:

Posted By: topinstaller200
Date Posted: June 20, 2010 at 10:42 PM

ok there are 2 BLACK/ orange wires one is acc the other is a 2nd ignition. did you hook up the 2nd IGN wire to Pink/White?

use the flex input wires for you 2nd ignition. if you have to push in your clutch to start your car with the key then you have to do a clutch bypass. This tech info is typically not given because of liability/safety reasons. There is always a plug on your clutch switch, sometimes 2 plugs. one plug is for start relay the other is for cruise control. if you car does not have cruise control then there is only one plug. one wire is constant ground the other needs to be grounded before car will start.

This car has different Ohm values for lock and unlock  with factory keyless its 2700ohm lock 7500 ohm unlock

without it is 1000 lock  250 unlock





Posted By: hawks
Date Posted: June 21, 2010 at 10:49 PM

Hey topinstaller200.  Sorry I guess I could be a little more clear on the wiring information.

Pink ignition 1 to Dark blue + ignition 1 on car

RED / White 12v+ constant to pink/black constant 12v+ on car

Orange accessory to BLACK/ orange accessory on car (would the smaller or larger diameter wire be the accessory)

Violet starter to yellow starter side on car

Green starter to yellow key side on car

Red 12v+ constant to red constant 12v+ on car

pink/white flex relay to RED / white (with auto stick only) ignition 2 according to bulldogsecurity.com but you say it should be BLACK/ orange

pink/black flex relay contact 87a I am not using (should I use)

RED / black 12v+ constant to pink/black constant 12v+ on car

Yeah that is what I figured I would have to do with the clutch.

I know about the resisstors but how do I connect two reversing polarity outputs to the single neg lock wire.





Posted By: topinstaller200
Date Posted: June 21, 2010 at 11:37 PM

ok, I use techservices.audiovox.com, I find it a little more accurate than Bulldog.

Anyway there should be 2 BLACK/ orange wires as far as which one is ACC and which one is 2nd IGN you will have to test.(my guess, smaller wire is 2nd IGN.) 2nd IGN will test like 1st Ign in that voltage will stay on when cranking the starter. ACC wires will typically drop voltage while cranking.

What is Auto Stick on a Neon either they are Automatic or Stick shift. I am sure someone here will tell me. I am thinking maybe like the Evolution Trannys (manual without a clutch)

well you are not doing reversing polarity with the relays. you are sort of boosting the ground outputs from the alarm brain. ok 1st--- identify your door lock/unlock wire attach a piece of wire to it then run to where you plan to mount your relays. 2nd get the proper resistors and temp attach one end to you door lock/unlock wire that you extended and touch other end to ground to ensure door either locks or unlocks.Once you have both resistors and its locking and unlocking doors, then wire up your relays.

87 of each relay to ground

87a not used

86 of each relay to constant 12V

85 of 1st relay to unlock (-) output from alarm ----30 of that same relay to the resistor that unlocks

85 of 2nd relay to lock (-) output from alarm ----30 of that same relay to the resistor that locks





Posted By: topinstaller200
Date Posted: June 21, 2010 at 11:42 PM

this is from my tech info. could be wrong, but if you say that the way you currently have it that it is not starting than its worth a try. Just verify and test wires.

COLOR POLARITY LOCATION posted_image
posted_image Battery RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
posted_image Ignition 1 DARK BLUE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
posted_image Ignition 2 BLACK/ ORANGE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
posted_image Accessory 1 BLACK/ ORANGE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
posted_image Starter 1 YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS





Posted By: blanx218
Date Posted: June 22, 2010 at 9:12 PM
Does your car crank at all when you try to remote start? Are you going thru the correct steps for manual transmission mode? Also virtual tach may not be able to be used since you have a manual tranny. I believe for manual transmissions you have to program a true tach. If you already have it hooked up, might as well program it.




Posted By: blanx218
Date Posted: June 22, 2010 at 9:20 PM
im also showing on directechs your door triggers are tan/black (-) for the drivers door and lt. blue/orange (-) for the passenger doors and they can be found in the kick panel. diode isolate each




Posted By: hawks
Date Posted: June 23, 2010 at 12:34 AM

Yep, got the door triggers isolated and the front doors worked fine but the rear doors did not trigger the alarm when opened.  So, I moved the door trigger to the domelight wire to test and it dose pickup all four doors.  BUT, now if I activate the alarm when the domelight  is on I get a door open warning on the remote and an open door will not trigger the alarm.  After the domelight goes out the alarm will activate normally and trigger on door opening.  Also, the doorlocks, and this is weird to me, work perfectly while the domelight is on but if you try to unlock the doors with the remote when the domelight is out the doors will unlock and then immediately lock again.  I then diconnected the domelight supervision relay and the door locks worked perfectly with or without the domelight on.  Would a diode maybe fix the problem?   As for the remote start, no cranking at all.  I have been working on getting all the alarm features soldered up and tucked away and I am going to tackle that next.  I will definately investigate the tach settings and start procedures when I get back to working on the R/S part.  Thanks for heads up on what to look at first.  If it isn't either of those I will be back on here asking for help and hopefully you can help me figure it out.

Thanks for your help topinstaller I did get the locks working.  Which wire should go to the BLACK/ orange second ignition the pink/white flex relay output or the pink/black felx relay contact 87a?

Thanks guys I really appreciate your help and for sharing your knowledge to help me troubleshoot these issues.





Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: June 23, 2010 at 8:24 PM
The pink/white goes to your second ignition! You aren't using the pink/black flex relay contact eliminate this wire!  Your alarm can eliminate the door trigger error via programming to assist with your trigger problem! Although i do reccomend locating instant triggers for all doors! However the option is there since you have already made your connections!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5




Posted By: hawks
Date Posted: June 23, 2010 at 9:59 PM

I agree I would prefer to hook up to all door triggers but the wiring sheet I have only shows two triggers the driver and passenger doors.  I just twisted things together to see how things would work off the domelight.  The doors do not have external door pins anywhere in the door jam so they must be inside the door.  I guess I can pop the door panels off and check it out but I was being lazy.  I have a programmer what option should I tweak to get things working if I have to continue using the domelight for a door trigger? 

I figured that I use the pink/white and not pink/black thought I would double check thanks t&t. 





Posted By: fledgling
Date Posted: July 04, 2010 at 6:11 PM

Hello. Im the guy who hawks is helping put the clifford 50.7x alarm r/s and locks into the dodge neon 05.

 He has more experience with manual transmissions than me. I'm still having trouble with getting the remote start to work right. The wiring is hooked up the same as he listed above, and as he said the remote start only works with the key in the ignition turned to the on postion while the clutch is pressed in. Does anyone know if it is because of the clutch? And if it is how do i go about wiring the bypass for it if it needs one? any help would be much appreciated. Thanks





Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: July 04, 2010 at 8:41 PM

clutch bypass needs to be done.

if you can remote start it by pushing in the clutch, a clutch bypass needs to be done. you can determine polarity by testing with your dmm.

If the rs only starts with the key in the ignition and not turned to on, you have a bypass problem.



-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: July 05, 2010 at 9:12 PM
Its probably been about 6 or 7 years since I did an install in that generation Neon but I think the rear doors may not have door pin wires. Does opening a rear door turn on the dome light? If it does not, that is why you can not find a wire for them. Dodge's typically have wires that are tan with a different colored stripe for each door.

I believe the starter wire on Chrysler's run through the clutch switch. You would connect the purple and green starter wires from the remote start after the clutch switch, instead of between the clutch switch and ignition switch. Of course this would be verified with a meter, and not just by randomly hooking up wires.

You could also run a relay to connect the clutch wires together. Typically would be:
86 - constant +12v
85 - ground when running or (-) starter output (skinny purple) from remote start
30 - clutch switch wire
87 - other clutch switch wire

You probably still are missing an ignition wire. You need to test the wires at the ignition switch and see what you are missing. The ignition switch is easily accessible. Stop worrying about what wire charts say and test the wires yourself.




Posted By: fledgling
Date Posted: July 08, 2010 at 8:03 PM

Thanks Jworm for the relay information. Before i start, i have cruise control does that mater with the clutch bypass?  Also i have three wires coming from the clutch: black, yellow/red, GREEN/ black. Does the yellow/red wire go to 30 and GREEN/ black go to 87 on the relay?






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