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viper 5901 wiring on 2010 honda ridgeline

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=122468
Printed Date: May 10, 2024 at 12:56 AM


Topic: viper 5901 wiring on 2010 honda ridgeline

Posted By: chiefwigms
Subject: viper 5901 wiring on 2010 honda ridgeline
Date Posted: June 29, 2010 at 10:51 AM

I was wondering if anyone that's installed a 5901 could go over the wiring below (for a 2010 ridgeline rtl).. i'm not sure about some of the connections:

posted_image

H1/ 1 -> *not used
H1/ 2 -> (+) 12V, White, IGN
H1/ 3 -> TO DEI SIRENS (5901 + 513T)
H1/ 4 -> *not used
H1/ 5 -> Chassis Ground
H1/ 6 -> *not used
H1/ 7 -> TO DEI TILT (507M)/DEI BACKUP BATTERY (520T)
H1/ 8 -> *not used
H1/ 9 -> DOME SUPERVISION RELAY (is this needed?)
H1/10 -> *not used
H1/11 -> *not used
H1/12 -> TO DEI BACKUP BATTERY (520T)

H2/ 1 -> *not used
H2/ 2 -> *not used
H2/ 3 -> *not used
H2/ 4 -> *not used
H2/ 5 -> *not used
H2/ 6 -> *not used
H2/ 7 -> *not used
H2/ 8 -> *not used
H2/ 9 -> TACHOMETER Input (is this needed)?
H2/10 -> *not used
H2/11 -> *not used
H2/12 -> *not used
H2/13 -> *not used
H2/14 -> *not used
H2/15 -> Hood Pin Switch
H2/16 -> *not used
H2/17 -> (+) Brake Wire, Light Blue Pin 26, Brake Switch
H2/18 -> Chassis Ground

H3/ 1 -> ???
H3/ 2 -> ???
H3/ 3 -> (+) Accessory, Yellow, IGN
H3/ 4 -> (+) Starter (ECM Side), BLACK/ White, IGN
H3/ 5 -> (+) Starter (Car Side), BLACK/ White, IGN
H3/ 6 -> (+) Ignition, BLACK / YELLOW, IGN
H3/ 7 -> ???
H3/ 8 -> ???
H3/ 9 -> ???
H3/10 -> *not used

Door Lock Harness
None

CANMAX400 DEI
11 -> CAN BUS SW (Data), BROWN / Black Pin 4 (dash fuse box)
14 -> Immobilizer Data, RED / Blue Pin 2 (ICU)
16 -> (-) Security Light Key Side, Light Blue/Orange Pin 5 (ICU)
20 -> (-) Security Light ECM Side, Light Blue/Orange Pin 5 (ICU)

nstalling :
VIPER 5901 w/ CANMAX400DEI
506T GLASS-BREAK SENSOR (goes to the optional port on the 5901)
507M TILT SENSOR
520T BACKUP BATTERY
513T MINI PIEZO SIREN

Questions:
1) There is a "Light Polarity Fuse" under where the CANMAX400DEI goes on the 5901- is this needed for a ridgeline? if so, what should this be set to?
3) Is the Tach Input on H2 needed? The CANMAX400DEI manual says D2D handles the Tach Output, and since it's a dockable module, do I need to connect anything? (i've been researching, and some people just loop back the tach from the w2w wire, but they don't use the DEI versioN)
4) I'm not sure about pins 1,2,7,8,9 on the remote start wiring... anyone have any ideas?
5) For the Hood Pin Switch on H2/15, can the D2D bus recognize this (the wiring info below says there's a wire i can connect to, or install a separate one provided with the 5901)?

the 2009 ridgeline's wiring is the same as 2010 i believe (here):
12 Volts  white  (+)  ign
Starter  BLACK/ white  (+)  ign
Ignition  BLACK / YELLOW  (+)  ign
Accessory  yellow  (+)  ign
Second Accessory  WHITE/ black  (+)  ign

Any other comments or suggestions are helpful - this is my first install, so i'd like to make sure everything goes smoothly

Thanks!
-Pete




Replies:

Posted By: buddholly
Date Posted: June 30, 2010 at 9:13 AM
light polarity fuse, is for your parking lights and depends on what wire you hit for them, that vehicle has two, blue (-), or RED / black (+), put the fuse in the jumper depending on what wire you hit.

The tach input is done by the canmax so is the hood pin and brake wire. Dome supervision is optional.

All red, RED / white, RED / black go to 12v constant.
Pink goes to ignition (BLACK / YELLOW)
Pink/white goes to second ignition. (or is programmable to do second accessory which is orange)
Pink/black isn't needed.

D2D does all this:
DL-Arm Factory Security
DL-Disarm Factory Security
DL-Door Lock Control
DL-Door Unlock
DL-Driver Priority Unlock
FOB-CAN Alarm Control w/ FOB remote
PK-Immobilizer Bypass-Data No Key Req'd
RS-Tach / RPM Output
SS-CAN Alarm control w/ FOB remote
SS-Entry Monitoring ALL Door Pins
SS-Entry Monitoring Driver Door Pin
SS-Entry Monitoring Hood Pin
ST-Brake Status (foot brake)
ST-Ignition Status




Posted By: chiefwigms
Date Posted: July 01, 2010 at 7:10 PM

thanks!

so just to be sure:

H1/9 BLACK/ WHITE (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT -> optional (i don't care if the dome light turns on with the alarm)
H1/11 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT -> if i don't wire this, will the lights still flash (using the factory alarm?)

All Optional: 
H2/9 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT
H2/15 GREY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (N/C OR N/O)
H2/17 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT

Needs to Be Wired:
H2/18 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT





Posted By: buddholly
Date Posted: July 02, 2010 at 11:08 AM
BLACK/ White is optional, the canmax might actually do it for you.

White is for your parking lights, so when you remote start the car the lights come on, or they flash when you lock/unlock. I would hook it up to the negative parking light white (blue) which is at the light switch. Make sure the jumper under the cover on the 5901 is set to the negative jumper.

Violet/White is done by the canmax.
Grey is done by the canmax.
Brown is done by the canmax.

h2/18 BLACK/ White goes to ground.




Posted By: chiefwigms
Date Posted: July 18, 2010 at 1:59 AM

so a quick update -

I did the install today, and am having problems with the remote start - the car will r/s but the starter keeps going, then dies after 10 sec... does this 3 times then fails.

I tried resetting the virtual tach (open door, turn key to on, within 5 sec press control, press & hold control, then press control 4x, then press & hold control again and shut off) with the same results

With the bitwriter, its set to virtual tach - i don't think it ever learned successfully cause i never saw the parking lights stay on or the led a solid blue (it always dies after 10 sec)

any ideas?





Posted By: chiefwigms
Date Posted: July 18, 2010 at 5:31 PM

so another update -

with the key in the on position, the r/s keeps cranking but after like 5 seconds stops, and the car is started, but since the key is in the ignition, the r/s just shuts off, and never learns

if i try without the key in the ignition, the same thing happens above (tries 3x for 10 sec then dies)

i'm lost on this one





Posted By: Mark Mizenko
Date Posted: July 18, 2010 at 8:55 PM

You can use the Voltage Sensing setting, set for .08 crank time, Voltage Check  set for Low.

Are you sure you have the correct wire (purple) connected to the starter wire?

I'm not really to clear on what your problem can be.  I'm not a fan of the CANMAX stuff OR wiring D2D with DEI stuff.  I wire that W2W, and never have had a problem





Posted By: chiefwigms
Date Posted: July 18, 2010 at 11:40 PM

Tried the .8 crank time, and the voltage check i couldn't find - i saw a smart start voltage, but i wasn't in that mode (f 3 times then remote start), i was just trying a normal remote start.

I probed the wiring during key positions/ start and found (h3 harness);
Pins 2/6/9 Always had +12V

During Off : 1,3,4,5,7 = 0V
During I : 7 = 12V; 3,4,5 = 0V
During II : 3,4,7 = 12V, 5 = 0V
When R/S : 3,4,7 = 12V, 5 = 0V

When Starting via Key, pin 5 had 12V.

just to update

H1/ 1 -> *not used
H1/ 2 -> (+) 12V, White, IGN
H1/ 3 -> TO DEI SIRENS (5901 + 513T)
H1/ 4 -> *not used
H1/ 5 -> Chassis Ground
H1/ 6 -> *not used
H1/ 7 -> TO DEI TILT (507M)/DEI BACKUP BATTERY (520T)
H1/ 8 -> *not used
H1/ 9 -> *not used
H1/10 -> *not used
H1/11 -> Parking Light Switch (-)
H1/12 -> TO DEI BACKUP BATTERY (520T)

H2/ 1 -> *not used
H2/ 2 -> *not used
H2/ 3 -> *not used
H2/ 4 -> *not used
H2/ 5 -> *not used
H2/ 6 -> *not used
H2/ 7 -> *not used
H2/ 8 -> *not used
H2/ 9 -> *not used
H2/10 -> *not used
H2/11 -> *not used
H2/12 -> *not used
H2/13 -> *not used
H2/14 -> *not used
H2/15 -> *not used
H2/16 -> *not used
H2/17 -> *not used
H2/18 -> Chassis Ground

H3/ 1 -> (+) Ignition, BLACK / YELLOW
H3/ 2 -> +12V, White
H3/ 3 -> (+) Accessory, Yellow
H3/ 4 -> (+) Starter, BLACK/ White (Car Side)
H3/ 5 -> (+) Starter,BLACK/ White (Key Side)
H3/ 6 -> +12V, White
H3/ 7 -> (+) Second Accessory,
H3/ 8 -> *not used
H3/ 9 -> +12V, White
H3/10 -> *not used

CANMAX400 DEI
11 -> CAN BUS SW (Data), BROWN / Black Pin 4 (dash fuse box)
14 -> Immobilizer Data, RED / Blue Pin 2 (ICU)
16 -> (-) Security Light Key Side, Light Blue/Orange Pin 5 (ICU)
20 -> (-) Security Light ECM Side, Light Blue/Orange Pin 5 (ICU)





Posted By: Mark Mizenko
Date Posted: July 19, 2010 at 11:58 AM

I dont wanna sound silly, but can you post the wire COLORS, not numbers.  I forgot all the numbers about 20 years ago.

The color wires from the module connected to the color wires in the car.

And... the readings you get on your meter from the ignition switch wires should be the exact same, as when you start with the key, as you do when you remote start.  Power must be present, appear and disappear at the same times as using the key.





Posted By: chiefwigms
Date Posted: July 21, 2010 at 8:57 AM

thanks for all your guys' help

i didn't realize that with the canmax400dei, you need to set the tach option w/ the bit writer to "tach" instead of virtual tach.  did that and everything works like a charm!





Posted By: chiefwigms
Date Posted: July 24, 2010 at 6:08 PM

the saga continues: r/s has 2 different situations :

1) unlock -> r/s : starts up fine, locks the doors, pager thinks unit is unlocked
2) locked -> r/s : alarm triggers before r/s happens, pager says "trunk open"

All the things that are wired to blue H1/7 (Trunk Pin/Instant Trigger Input) are : Backup Battery & Tilt Sensor

I disconnected the tilt sensor, and same thing happened as above.

If I leave the trunk open (not the tailgate), the R/S works in both situations above (both if r/s when locked or unlocked).

This lead me to believe that the trunk there was a mismatch w/ the voltage being normally open or normally closed.

I changed the bit writer setting to be Normally Closed (default is normally open), and it works fine in both situations again, however the pager now notifies me that upon arming the system, the trunk is open.

Any ideas? i searched, and this was the closest thing i found (its exactly the problem i'm having) but they never said what they did to fix it
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~113653





Posted By: Mark Mizenko
Date Posted: July 24, 2010 at 9:12 PM

You should'nt have said everything works like a charm.  You jinxed yourself.





Posted By: chiefwigms
Date Posted: August 06, 2010 at 7:26 PM
anyone?





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