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remote start without cutting wire?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=122474
Printed Date: May 10, 2024 at 1:39 AM


Topic: remote start without cutting wire?

Posted By: nitro71
Subject: remote start without cutting wire?
Date Posted: June 29, 2010 at 2:42 PM

Getting ready to install a Avital alarm, remote start and am seeing that you are supposed to cut the ignition to starter wire and hook that to the relay. When you do this can you still use the vehicle ignition to start the vehicle? I'm assuming that you can. What if you don't want to cut the wire. Is there a down side to just using the relay output and not using the ignition input? I can't really see that it matters?



Replies:

Posted By: nitro71
Date Posted: June 29, 2010 at 3:01 PM

Decided I will install per directions since I don't really know what the device is doing.

Does the green wire connect to the line side of the starter wire you cut?

Where does the pink ignition wire connect to then? The directions say "Connect this wire to the ignition wire". Mildly vague I would say.. : )





Posted By: nitro71
Date Posted: June 29, 2010 at 3:11 PM
I think I figured it out. There is a ignition start wire that doesn't goto the starter such as one for the computer or something that you connect the pink to. The green and the purple are the wires that you cut the wire that goes to the solenoid and splice them inline into.




Posted By: Mark Mizenko
Date Posted: June 29, 2010 at 9:02 PM

You dont have to connect the green wire, you can connect the purple wire to the cars "starter: wire.

If you want to do starter kill for the alarm,.... cut the starter wire, connect the green wire to the "Key" (ignition switch) side of the cut wire and then the purple goes to the other cut (starter) side.

And yes, the Pink ignition wire goes to the igniton wire, and the Orange wire goes to the accessory wire.  Pink /White is your second Igniton output should you need one.  Pink/Black you probably wont use, and all the red wires have to go to constant power.  Simple.





Posted By: nitro71
Date Posted: June 30, 2010 at 12:34 PM
Thanks Mark, that makes my install a little cleaner. I'm not so worried about the vehicle being stolen. More vehicle break in and theft. The thought crossed my mind if the relay ever fails it would be nice to be able to still start the vehicle.




Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 30, 2010 at 9:03 PM
If you use a Tyco (formerly Bosch) or a Potter & Brumfield relay, and install it properly, I will bet you will never have a problem with it. 




Posted By: jcs091570
Date Posted: July 01, 2010 at 1:36 AM
It should be a fail safe starter kill..meaning if the relay or the alarm system goes bad..you will still be able to start your vehicle. Just ensure good connetions




Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: July 01, 2010 at 4:29 AM
A failsafe starter kill will allow the car to start if the alarm fails.  If the common and the normally closed contact fails, the car will not start.  Failures in this manner are not common under these circumstances, but it could happen.




Posted By: illuzion
Date Posted: July 18, 2010 at 12:39 AM

The main reason for this is in addition to the starter kill, DEI stuff also provides anti grind during remote start.  When system is sitting idle (not in remote start) the two wires are shorted together, almost like relay isnt there, but when you remote start the vehicle, it disconnects the keyswitch starter wire from the starter solenoid, so if out of habit when you put key in to start vehicle and turn it all the way to start, it will not grind/damage the starter.





Posted By: fredddy9
Date Posted: July 18, 2010 at 1:01 PM
H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT (BR/PK) hot in START-RUN
H3/2 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87 (BR +12 constant)
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT (BK/LG)
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL) (DB/O) hot in START
H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE) (DB/O) i cut this wire to have an antigrinding feature
H3/6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT (BR +12 constant)
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT (PK/BK)
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY
H3/9 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT (BR +12 constant)
H3/10 NC (no connection) NC




Posted By: fredddy9
Date Posted: July 18, 2010 at 1:08 PM
SORRY !! i hit 'Post reply' instead of preview first :(

basically, i just wanted to post my remote start wiring which should give some idea what wires goes where.

note that three of these H3 wires, H3/2, H3/6, H3/9 are connected together. And the rest powers up ignition and accessory wires.
You neen a specific car ignition wiring diagram to determine which wires should be hot with the car running, you need to powerup the COILS, engine computer, heated oxygen sensors, your AC blower and selector.   You can skip windshield wipers motor, or interior lighting.    As you can see i used all outputs, if needed to power up additional accessory wires i would have to use additional relay.


Regarding the H3/4 and H3/5 wires, i cut my DB/O wire so i can have a use of antigrinding feature, when you put and turn your key after remote start, viper prevent starter from cranking.
But of course you dont have to cut it, thus only connecting H3/4 wire is required.





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