Printer Friendly Forum Posts - viper 350hv, 516t, 508d

I am having some difficulty getting the 508D to work correctly with the 350HV. When the 508D is connected to the optional sensor port, no warn away or full trigger is happening on the alarm.
Because of such, I had to wire the GREEN and BLUE (508D) to the GREEN and BLUE of the 350HV. Its become a bit of a nuisance since everything that passes by it just goes from warning into full trigger - yes the sensitivity is high, but I would really prefer just the warn away signal. Can anyone help please?

ps. I have the 3button remote and trying to get the 4button.

12Volt ROCK!

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ChardC

I'll help with the adjustment part. I would need more info to help with the wiring. The green and blue of the Viper??? I think there are probably 3 different wires of each of those colors on a Viper alarm. Be a little more specific.

Turn both dials counterclockwise. Slowly start turning up the warn away zone until it triggers when you wave a hand about a foot or two outside the drivers and passenger windows. Test both sides of the car. After the alarm is triggered 3 times it will not trigger again until an hour passes, or the ignition is turned on and back off again. (Its call Nuisance Prevention Circuity). Test it with both the windows up and down and find a middle point for adjustment.

After you get the warn away where you want it set, you will adjust the full trigger. Put the windows down. Slowly turn the dial clockwise until the alarm goes into full trigger once a hand goes about 6-12" inside the window.

Keep in mind, you want to wait about 30 seconds after you arm the alarm before you start testing the sensors.

@JWorm

thanks. on the viper 350HV H1 harness, its pins 5 & 6 which represents:

green (-) door trigger input, zone 3
blue (-) instant trigger input, zone 1

however I noted the optional sensor port on the 350HV and connected the 508D on there, but its does not seem to do anything except for flashing the red and green lights when there is movement, no sounds from the alarm.

I will try the adjustments when I get home in about an hour and a half.

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ChardC

I'm guessing the sensor port is U/S.
Arm the alarm, look at your alarm side plug on the 508d.
Using a DMM set to low ohms, secure the black probe to ground and apply the red to either the terminal where blue and green joined. This should trip the warn away. That will tell you if the alarm's OK

I tried Auex advice from: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=82984&KW=bsd1

Actually the correct way to wire it would be:
Red- constant power
Black- ground or ground when armed
BLUE AND GREEN- Blue multiplex input.

But no luck - the motion sensor hardly lights... no triggers, nothing.... its time to bang it!!!

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ChardC

Part 2 on testing: Connect to the alarm's mux port, be able to access the loom. Sit in the car, strip the red, black, blue and green wires.
Turn on alarm, wait 15 secs. If nothing happens, then with a small 6" piece of wire short the black to either green or blue. This should trigger the alarm. If not we have to assume a faulty mux on the alarm.
If it does DMM red probe to the red on the 508d loom, black probe to the black, make sure you have 12v+.
If above is correct the 508d is faulty, highly unlikely.

@Howie

I will try the bridging and so forth later today. Thanks! Just wanted to post the options for the port I have it connected to so when I troubleshoot later and provide feedback you can probably determine if further diagnostics is required.

Optional Sensor Harness, 4-pin Connector

The four-pin sensor harness is optional, and is not included with this unit.

RED (+) 12V Constant and BLACK (-) Ground
These wires supply constant (+) 12 volts and ground to the optional sensor.

BLUE/GREEN (-) Multiplex Input
These wires are multiplex inputs. If a (-) input of less than 0.8 seconds is supplied to either wire,
the Warn-Away response will occur. A (-) input of longer than 0.8 seconds to either wire will initiate
the triggered sequence and report Zone 4.

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ChardC

@ Howie

Quote:
"If nothing happens, then with a small 6" piece of wire short the black to either green or blue. This should trigger the alarm. If not we have to assume a faulty mux on the alarm.
If it does DMM red probe to the red on the 508d loom, black probe to the black, make sure you have 12v+.
If above is correct the 508d is faulty, highly unlikely."

It seems like the port on the alarm is faulty - though it gives +12v and grounds the connection, no triggers.

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ChardC

Hi Guys,

I just wired up another shock sensor to the optional sensor port on the 350hv and no triggers or what so ever (confirmed port issue). I will just wire up the motion sensor the orignial way I did adjust and its sensitivity. Oh, does this mean I cant purchase the other modules like the power up windows and voice module?

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ChardC

My first thought would be to change the 350.
If not, you should be able to wire the 508d to the alarm's blue trigger wire. 1N4004 diodes in line before any joins, bands away from the alarm. You should have an orange wire on the 350 which goes to ground when armed (GWA). That's your window close trigger.

Thanks Howie II, I did exactly that. I will look for the diodes tomorrow.

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ChardC

Personally, I would upgrade your alarm to a 690xv or 5002 Viper Alarm. Gives you more options. Was this 350HV brand new? Hopefully nothing else is wrong with it.

Strangely enough JCS I was thinking the same thing. The 350 is very much an entry level product and really too basic to carry all those extra functions.
They market the even more basic Avital 3100 here and I'm sick of having to provide 3 1amp diodes for the ultrasonic, a 451 for the locks and 3 amp diodes for the Euro indicators!
Because of the parts and time consumption it's actually cheaper to supply a Viper 1002!
Which would have been my choice over the 350.
Suppose you added a 530t and trunk release, I doubt if you have enough aux outputs for them.

Thank you for your thoughts on that. I at one time had a 350hv and tried to hook a prox sensor up to the mux port. It would work initially with warn away but generally would skip right to instant trigger. I have come to the conclusion that the on board shock sensor may interfere with that port. Being that it is not diode isolated and on the same circuit. That is just my thought. So I have the 690xv.. the 508d is plugged into the brain..but I tapped the blue wire onto the green wire from the sensor side.. and freed up my blue wire leading to the brain which I connected my tilt sensor to. No problems. The 350v is just a basic alarm like you said.

I would also like to add that I've been installing Clifford Equipment since the early 90s when we gray imported the product (G2).
I'm not enamoured of DEI software, vastly preferring Clifford G5, faster response, easier to programme etc.
Having said that the failure rate over the last 20 years has been almost zero except recently, on-board immobiliser relays and the 5901 remotes.

Thanks for the advice guys. I had the 350hv installed one year ago this month and decided to get more modules for it recently. Viper documentation stated that the modules are supported so I figured well let me change this basic alarm to something advance and boom, the proximity sensor does not work correctly on the optional sensor port.

I've decided to get a better alarm and considering the viper 1002 or even better 5901.

Thanks again for all the help and advice.

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ChardC

If anyone remembers, I recently posted an issue with my 508D sensor and my 350HV alarm module. (https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=122546&KW=350hv) It seems I am encountering the same issue with the 516T. I reconnected the 508D to the H1 harness and added the 516T there as well with the green wires between the two connected for the warning output, but I'm not getting any voice output. Also, what sort of sounds should the 516T generate? Mine only generates a tone when the full alarm is triggered. Am I doing something wrong again???

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ChardC

I just noticed what's happening now... apparently my vehicle is set to system armed with bypass notification. I was wondering all along where that second chip came from, after all it was when I installed the 508D and had to disconnect it from the door trigger since it reported my door being open on via dashbord light. It seems to cancel my warnings for the 508D and 516U.

how can I reset the alarm to defaults? while retaining my remotes...

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ChardC

ok guys, me again. I have the voice module working correctly. however I have an issue with the motion sensor again. on my vehicle the door trigger (-) seems to light dim if the alarm is not active, but when its active (on) the door light indicator gets bright like a door is open. very strange and this happened before and the only resolution was to unplug the motion sensor. I also noticed that the light would go off completely once the vehilce was turned on, but off it comes on... anyone assist? The isloation with the diodes seem to null the triggers on that connection too.

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ChardC

Can anyone help me please? Going nutts here!!!

posted_image

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ChardC

Sorry about the previous post, I did not read the instructions regarding image size. However, you can view the image via https://yfrog.com/f/n1alarmdiagramchardcj/
No diodes are in user currently, however two will be required for connections on the accesories going to the brain blue wire and another two will be required for accessories going to the brain on the orange wire.
I am having the issue with no voice being generated, no motion sensing and also, there is a soft chirp coming out of the siren when the car is disarmed (weird)

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ChardC

Ok, so far no one has responded. Desipte such, the connections above are accurate. I had to place a diode on the H1/1 orange wire with the anode side on my accessories. I didnt have a 1n4004 diode, so a 1n4006 diode sufficed. It seems during all my frustration, I connected the 516U main connecter badly, luckily I was not playing around and jsut tracing my steps because I may have damaged the circuitry and so forth. I also managed to get the white wire at the hazards switch. It only seems now that my 508D is the oonly outstanding issue, but as suggested from a previous post, it may just be faulty.

Quetions to wrap thing up.

Do I need a relay on the H1/2 white wire (-) for parking lights since I change the connection over to the hazards switch white wire (-)? My reason for asking is because it seems to keep the hazards on when armed.

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ChardC

No you don't need a relay if you're using the negative trigger at the hazard switch. It's never happened to me before, have you tried a diode inline band facing towards the alarm side?

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

I understand your frustration and have been there and done that..with trial and error. Time to refresh and start over here. I would like to help. Let's start with the original problem.. the mux port the 508d plugged into.. check the plug from the 508d and make sure the pins are in secure and not broke. check the prongs in the mux port of the 350hv and insure they are not bent or broke off. have you adjusted both sensitivity dials on the 508d? doesn't the 516 come with a separate voice module speaker separate from the siren? what kind of vehicle is this..are you gonna use the starter kill relay ?

One more thing....are your windows tinted with metallic tint.. and were the windows up when you originally tried testing the zones of the 508d?

@t&t tech

I wil be isloating the indicators today with the diodes, but once more I will have to use the 1n4006 diodes as they're the only ones I have.

@jcs091570

The mux port on the 350HV worked fine when I connected an external Shock sensor, but it will not work right with the 508D. I had to wire the 508D to the H1 wiring harness as shown in the diagram on pg. 2 of this post. I've made up my mine that the 508D is faulty and needs replacing - the alarms triggers for no apparent reason to me - when there is actual movement around the vehicle it does not trigger (weird). I do have the starter kill relay on and wired it up with the diode on the orange wire connecting it to the 350HV and 516U. You are also correct in regards to the 516U, but the brown wire is used to determine chirps when connected to the 350HV, The dipswitch of the 516U is set to 1,2 (off) and 3,4 (on). I currently have the green wire of the 516U going to the green wire of the 508D for warning triggers - but nothing happens when you bridge the out perimeter.

What about the factory adj. option on the 508D, can this be adjusted in anyway to help in troubleshooting?

Vehicle: Mitsubishi Lancer 2005 Sedan (Fully Loaded)

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ChardC

Ok another Lancer..that will help since I own one myself and did extensive alarm work on it. Do you plan to keep the 508d or scrap it and get another one? Don't mess the with the factory adjust. Was this item new in box when you got it?

I will be ordering a new one soon, it was not new when I purchased it and paid a good 25US or more for it and when I received it, one end of the cable was cut (no mux port insert). I didnt get a chance to do anything today due to the weather, but wil try tomorrow.

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ChardC

If your last post had been your first we'd have all saved time and trouble when I told you to bin it.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Have you thought about parting with the 516 talking module? Honestly I think it is overkill..especially since you will have a 508d that gives warn away. It does the job for me. Personally I think people would laugh or even get annoyed by a talking alarm. My 508d has discouraged more attempts and people than any device I know of...plus I get paged on my remote when the warn away is tripped.

I hate to say this but the most efficient systems are those with a single sensor such as a 508d, follow the KISS principle, first sensors can actually interfere with each other, e.g. glass breaks can pick up the warn away and trigger, I had the Intellivoice on my Clifford, I simply had kids coming up to my car to hear the warnings!
I've also never rated the 516 or its relatives, never seems to work out quite right.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

So let's say we eliminate the 516 voice module..and we have our new 508d. Keep in mind the 350hv has an onboard shock sensor so you will be plugging the 508d into the mux port. Here is what I would do and hook up with the 350hv...and back up battery along with 508d

H1 Harness of 350hv:

Red to Gray of 520t backup batt / Red from 520t to White at Ignition harness or +pos batt term

Brown to Red of siren

Yellow to Yellow of starter kill relay

Black to single point ground / connect siren black and 520t black here also

Blue H1/7 to hood pin or negative truck light trigger (green wire with orange strip) at trunk light plug

Green to negative door trigger wire White at fusebox (white plug) or kick panel

White to Green wire with white stripe at fusebox (white plug) or kick panel

Orange to Orange of starter kill relay

Starter kill relay:

Yellow to BLACK/ white of ignition harness

Black goes to motor side of start wire BLACK / YELLOW

Green goes to key side Black Yellow

Orange to Orange of 350hv harness H1/12

I am assuming you will be hooking up the door lock/unlock feature

Lock wire to violet

Unlock to lt green (both in drivers kick panel)

I am out of space so I will post another trend on hooking up the 508d and tying it in with the blue negative trigger wire of the 520t. Let me know when you are ready for further detail...

To make it simple with the 508d and utilize the Blue Neg trigg wire from the 520t...eliminating use of diodes do as follow which is what I have done.

My 508d is mounted in the center console.I drilled a hole to allow passage of the 508d harness in black looming. I will try to attach a pic. So anyway route the harness up the center of the car under the cup holder and gear shifter...just an example of how mine is and it adventually plugs into my 690xv. So maybe somewhere halfway or a quarter the way from the mux port... very very carefully pull apart the green and blue wires from harness so you have some room to work with. Snip the blue wire...jump the blue wire coming from the 508d onto the green wire that goes to the mux port/brain of alarm.. and then take the blue wire from the alarm side that is left and connect it to the blue of the 520t. This will eliminate the diodes and these sensors will be on separate circuits even though plugged into the port. You can snip the green wire and use a butt connector or solder the green and blue from the 508d side to the green of the alarm side.. Make sense?