1999 vw bora alarm

Looking for the wiring diagram for a 99 VW Bora, i was told it was the same as the Jetta but none of the wires in the door match the wires that are listed... any one with any help?

I've tried testing the wires with the multimeter and i have 4 wires that go from 12volts - 0volts (or visa versa) when the lock/unlock buttons are pushed.

Look at MkIV Golf as your reference. The wires you're looking for are in the driver's door, run across the door from lock actuator at the rear to the plug on the window motor.
Lock = yellow/blue, unlock = GREEN/ red or YELLOW /GREEN.
Neg pulse, double to unlock, extend lock pulse time for comfort (total) close.

howie ll wrote:

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Look at MkIV Golf as your reference. The wires you're looking for are in the driver's door, run across the door from lock actuator at the rear to the plug on the window motor.
Lock = yellow/blue, unlock = GREEN/ red or YELLOW /GREEN.
Neg pulse, double to unlock, extend lock pulse time for comfort (total) close.

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Got 'em, thank you. Now whenever i go to lock with the remote the relay will click and vibrate or the door lock(part on the top of the door that you can push or pull to unlock/lock) will shudder but it will neither lock or unlock...ideas? All wires are connected properly at the relay, as far as i can tell.

The door must be closed or the latch thrown over, or possible motor failure.
Try it from the switch on the door, or try looping the lock wire to ground directly and see what happens.
If the door switch gives the same result, you have a U/S motor.

howie ll wrote:

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The door must be closed or the latch thrown over, or possible motor failure.
Try it from the switch on the door, or try looping the lock wire to ground directly and see what happens.
If the door switch gives the same result, you have a U/S motor.

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Tried it with the door closed. Same result. The lock button (part on top of the door pannel) will vibrate when you try to lock the door, and do nothing when you try to unlock the door. But works fine when using the lock/unlock button on the door pannel.

On another note, now i'm having issues with the starter kill. You can bypass the starter kill relay and the vehicle will start just fine. But when you don't bypass it will not start (alarm both activated or deactivated and grounded or ungrounded)

If it helps any the alarm is an Autopage RF-320

Without knowing what you did try my trick of grounding that wire, that will prove whether it's an alarm fault, also check the unit to make sure it's putting out a neg signal on the lock wire. If this unit lists its lock/unlock wires as +or - output, you will need to diode, 1N4004, on both wires bands away from alarm but first ground that wire!
Is your starter cut relay wired correctly or is it internal with a green to key side and a violet to starter side of the cut starter wire?

howie ll wrote:

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Without knowing what you did try my trick of grounding that wire, that will prove whether it's an alarm fault, also check the unit to make sure it's putting out a neg signal on the lock wire. If this unit lists its lock/unlock wires as +or - output, you will need to diode, 1N4004, on both wires bands away from alarm but first ground that wire!
Is your starter cut relay wired correctly or is it internal with a green to key side and a violet to starter side of the cut starter wire?

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Okay i don't have any diodes on the wiring, that might be the issue but i'll try the ground trick first.

It was wired correctly when i tested it after making the connections. I assumed it was just one of the wires got pulled out but i pulled the relay (external) and all wires are still connected both to the relay and to their destinations (12v/starter/ignition/etc)

Did some more searching. The wires i had hooked up controled the windows "roll down" function. The doors would lock/unlock then a second or two later all 4 windows would roll down. Is that common? Just testing with 12volts of power. Also i checked the colors you told me against what i have and they don't match....in the door i have

BROWN / White
Purple / YELLOW
Blue / YELLOW
Grey / YELLOW
BROWN / Blue
YELLOW /GREEN or blue, can't make out the color
GREEN/ Brown
GREEN/ YELLOW


Thanks for all your help so far...

The one you had as blue / YELLOW, try that or GREEN/ YELLOW or the one you're not sure about, try them, also you can't have roll down, it will simply unlock the doors.
The roll down function, you must have enabled that so undo it. OR you have your lock and unlock wires the wrong way round!
I do about one of these every month and I've never bothered to remember the lock/unlock colours, I simply TEST! Which is what a pro would do, test first.
You will need a diode on the trunk trigger, otherwise the al;arm will fire off every 35 mins, look on this site for DEI 1076 and apply it to the BROWN / black trunk trigger wire at the BCM box (under dash, driver's side).

howie ll wrote:

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The one you had as blue / YELLOW, try that or GREEN/ YELLOW or the one you're not sure about, try them, also you can't have roll down, it will simply unlock the doors.
The roll down function, you must have enabled that so undo it. OR you have your lock and unlock wires the wrong way round!
I do about one of these every month and I've never bothered to remember the lock/unlock colours, I simply TEST! Which is what a pro would do, test first.
You will need a diode on the trunk trigger, otherwise the al;arm will fire off every 35 mins, look on this site for DEI 1076 and apply it to the BROWN / black trunk trigger wire at the BCM box (under dash, driver's side).

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I'll have to check the wiring again i guess. And go to the shop and get a few diodes. I searched on that DEI 1076 and came across nothing...a few mentionings of it here and there but no description of it or where to buy. Searched on ebay as well with the same results....is it possible to wire a few relays together to get the same results as that 1076? or.....?

BCM box, either has 1 or 2 plugs (2 if factory alarm).
Thin BROWN / black (test) is trunk trigger.Do the same with the hood, BROWN / red wire at same location.
Cut it and insert a 1N4004 with its band away from the BCM, then at the band side join to the alarm's trunk trigger, not needed on the dome lead, which on this car is your door trigger.

Okay now im having other issues. When i push "lock" on the remote, the car starts but it sounds like it leaves the starter on longer than it's supposed to. When i push "unlock" on the remote the car wont start at all. It sounds like i have a couple of wires reversed but i can't figure out which ones...

i'm just going to pull the entire alarm out and start from scratch....i'd take it to a local shop but unfourtionately the closest shop is probably 4-5 hours from here...

Don't do that, just test what you've done.
Wiring from memory.
12v+ either of 2 reds at ignition or under fusebox, 2 M6 nuts marked 30+ with thick red cables.
Ignition black or BLACK/ blue at Ignition loom
2nd ignition BLACK/ red at ditto
Starter RED / black at ditto
Acc BROWN / red or RED / brown or yellow/red or RED / yellow at ditto.
Ground points, driver kick panel or BCM mounting, follow the BROWN wires, they are all grounds.
Trunk trigger, BROWN / black (thin)- at BCM box*
Hood trigger BROWN / red - at BCM box*
All door contact blue/grey - at BCM
Trunk release BROWN / violet - at BCM
Tach injector (any) not RED / violet.
I think either you haven't learned tach or you've programmed too much crank time.
* These two will need diodes as previously explained.
You will need a by-pass, see Fortin or xpresskit or Idatalink.
Please TEST EVERYTHING above.
N.B. Steering column access is a pig.
BCM box u nder dash adjacent to steering column.

howie ll wrote:

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Don't do that, just test what you've done.
Wiring from memory.
12v+ either of 2 reds at ignition or under fusebox, 2 M6 nuts marked 30+ with thick red cables.
Ignition black or BLACK/ blue at Ignition loom
2nd ignition BLACK/ red at ditto
Starter RED / black at ditto
Acc BROWN / red or RED / brown or yellow/red or RED / yellow at ditto.
Ground points, driver kick panel or BCM mounting, follow the BROWN wires, they are all grounds.
Trunk trigger, BROWN / black (thin)- at BCM box*
Hood trigger BROWN / red - at BCM box*
All door contact blue/grey - at BCM
Trunk release BROWN / violet - at BCM
Tach injector (any) not RED / violet.
I think either you haven't learned tach or you've programmed too much crank time.
* These two will need diodes as previously explained.
You will need a by-pass, see Fortin or xpresskit or Idatalink.
Please TEST EVERYTHING above.
N.B. Steering column access is a pig.
BCM box u nder dash adjacent to steering column.

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Well the alarm i'm using doesn't use a 2nd ignition.

I have it hooked up as...
12v constant - red @ column
Ignition - black @ column
Starter - RED / black @ column
Ground - one of the points with brown wires directly under steering wheel

that's all i have hooked up currently and it's still doing the same thing, start when "lock" and no start at "unlock" the noise from the starter has gone away but the buttons and their functions are still reversed on the remote....

Also i'm seeing your mentions of the crank time, this isn't a remote start alarm, just simple lock unlock function with siren

All the alarm is calling for is

12v constant
1 ignition input
starter interupt (external relay required and wired)
ground
then all the other things such as door locks, horn, siren, parking and dome lights, etc.

Again, all I can say is test the alarm's outputs and test the car's wiring.
your colours are OK

howie ll wrote:

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your colours are OK

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that's what i was afraid you'd say...thanks again for all the help.

2kz71, you have probably solved your windows rolling down problem when unlocking by now, but incase you have not or if someone else is having a similar problem with their VW, it is an easy fix. My system was doing the same thing. I installed an ultra-start 1271M r/s and found the solution on their website : "This issue is caused by the length of the unlock pulse. To correct this issue program the system for short door lock pulses. (125ms)"

Actually roll down only occurs if you disarm WITHIN the comfort close time. Under normal use i.e. arm it and leave for a few hours, when you unlock you won't get roll-down.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Incidentally, Bora and Vento were European names for the Jetta. Focus, Golf were big sellers in Europe but as hatches, not sedans, they kept changing the Jetta name every time they changed the model.
It's been called the Bora in Europe since 1998.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.