viper 5901

Hi, since i want to install the antenna module in the back of the car and the brain module in the front i need to extend the factory 6 wire cable.

I don't need led nor the button on that antenna module, so i'm guessing i only need to extend the wires what feed the antenna. Can someone perhaps know the pinout?



The best option for me would be removing those two antennas and hooking up an external 900mhz gsm antenna but as far i've learned its not a plug and play job.

any advices appreciated, thanks.

How far do you need to extend it and how long is the wire now?

Personally I wouldn't f with it. If the wire is too long it won't work reliably or at all. Alarm manufacturers also warn against shortening it, which can produce the same issues.

Changing the antenna itself is a whole 'nother bag of worms. A 900Mhz GSM antenna is only good on the 900Mhz GSM cell phone band, so if your remote isn't a cell phone the antenna would perform poor at best.

Thanks for your response. I didn't measure the original DEI cable but i would need like 6 meters and the DEI one is definitely shorter, maybe 3 meters.

I thought for digital transmission the length shouldn't matter. The instructions manual only states not to wind the excess of the cable because it might create some interference.     Don't know maybe i will install the brain unit at the back too then.

Is it digital transmission? How about moving the alarm brain?

In digital transmission it all depends on what communication protocols are being utilized and what voltages the system is running at. Some setups are very tolerant of tripling the cable length, others have issues.

If you really need the antenna at the back you can try it out. It won't fry anything, unless you get the wires crossed.

IMHO it's alot of work for not much benefit. From an aesthetic stand point, the rear view mirror typically conceals the antenna. Only way I'd bother trying extending the antenna to the back is if a customer was paying me at least $100 to make it happen.

I agree 100% with catback, seems like a lot of effort for not much return. I have done this on some vehicles, Porsche 911 and MR ll spring to mind although note the vehicle layout and I've gone for an under seat position for the brain, gives me the option of front or rear.

X3 with howard and catback!  Besides no real benefits, i don't believe rthat unit has inputs for off board led and valet switch! Could be awful discomforting in the event of system failure!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

i was planning to hide an antenna inside the 3rd stop light at the rear window, it seems like a great spot.
I just don't like the general idea of placing the antenna with an alarm disable button in a visible place on the windshield, especially with that led blinking.

Well maybe i will mount it under the dash but the reception will drop probably.

Behind your rear view mirror is a great spot! The led faces the exterior and kinda makes it look like those bmw's with the factory system that has the led to the rear or the rear view!  Do this only of your rear view has an arm from the celing and not stuck onto the windshield, this way the cable is concealed behind the arm and shield it with a couple inches of 1/4" loom!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

it took me two days to figure out why the engine dies right after remote started.   
For some reason Viper 5901 activates:

H1/12 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT

right after the engine is started with a remote, even if its unlocked, with a door open, thus it was cutting off my fuel which i previously separated with a relay.   

Anybody else also run into this issue?    why does it ground H1/12 wire after remote start, even if its unarmed?

To prevent the customer from grinding the starter with the key (dummy bump), when wired as a starter kill.

Program it OFF with your bitwriter.  Simple

alright thanks for your reply. I also just found it in a manual that i can set this option to ON OFF.

My understanding was that antigrinding was achieved by splitting the starter wire to H3/4 (VIOLET)   and H3/5 (GREEN), and completely not related to H1/12 ground when armed.

So now i can turn Antrigrinding OFF,   and   be carefull with the keys

or leave it ON, and then with the engine running   also my field disturbance sensors will be ON too.   And i was planning to hook one of them to the horn. Gee they implemented so many different status outputs yet H1/12 Ground when armed   doesnt work as it suppose to.

Really! I didn't know you could program that GWA off! I was under the impression that anti-grind reffered to the splitting of the starter wire with the heavy gauge wires on the xcrs!

I don't think that is correct, that GWA wire isn't functioning properly! To the OP how did you wire the fuel cut describe the connections at the relay, if i see the flaw i'm looking for i'll let you know!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

If GWA is programmed on... it will go active after remote started.

Simple, use your status GWRunning output to a second relay to "loop" round your fuel cut relay. In fact even simpler,get rid of the fuel cut relay, it's dangerous!
The Orange GWA should only go to ground when the alarm is activated, have you dioded your fuel cut relay?

Was thinking along the same lines howard!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

Great minds Darren
The ACPO (association of chief police officers) over here are against anything but starter cuts on safety grounds, it may cut out whilst driving etc, in fact in the late 90s we were getting lots of problems with the FACTORY Transponders on Porsches and VWs.
The fuel cut relay comment is that it should be dioded, other wise back feed will cause just that problem.

Thanks for your replays.
Yes, fuel cut-off relay is dioded between 86 and 85 pins.

positive 86 is connected to 87a (+12V feed from the ignition)
30 goes to the fuel pump

and negative 85 is connected to viper GWA.   I thought GWA is grounded all the time in ARMED mode not only during 30 seconds alarm trigger.

I like that idea to use another relay to cut off GWA with STATUS output, i'll keep antigrinding feature and still have fuelcutoff protection during alarm trigger.   But still, for example if i see somebody getting into running car and driving off , even if i ARM it,   GWA wont stop the theft because STATUS will prevent energizing my relay.   I would have to use one of the AUX output.

The relay would energize as soon as the would be thief hit the brake pedal, because the status out would cease when that happens!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

a little update to my research.

GWA is grounded when armed all the time, and stays grounded after remote start.

the engine is running on a remote start, i hit Unarm button, but GWA is still grounded.

once i turn the key on, and deactivate remote start GWA breaks ground.


So i guess i cant use this GWA wire to powerup my microwave sensors because remote starting the car will trigger the alarm.


And regarding my fuel cut-off relay, i connected it to AUX4 in Latched mode. Works for me!   i can shut the car off anytime i want.   I just don't know if setting AUX4-ON draws any additionl current, have to check this out.

I finally have everything setup (ten relays total) but the microwave sensors.

I want to hook up two DUAL microwave sensors.   
Exterior zone generates 300ms signals
Interior zone generates 800ms signals.

I've already tested it with H2/8 green (-)door input, and prealarm works. Horn honk also works.

I need some advice how to connect it in a proper way the first time, as i have a whole dash apart.

Here is my setup:


1. do i need to separate GWA wires too with diodes?

2. what is your advice on wiring

3. MUX port (?)
I'm really interested in that additional MUX port on viper brain module. Can somebody tell me which pins are alarm inputs and how do they work? i mean is it instant trigger or prealarm?

And also i just wanted to update on this 'antenna cable extending' issue. Its working, i mean i cut the cable and used 6 wires to extend it to the lenght i wanted +1m, don't know about the transmission quality thus the remote range, but i hope it wouldn't decrease.


Looking forward on some advices, what are the best alarm trigger inputs to hook up my microwave sensors.    MUX port would report 'zone 4' but i just don't know its pinout...   Thanks for any feedback. I finally putting the car back together this afternoon.

As i've already stated in different topic, MUX port is a four pin connector between 'neutral safety switch' and 'door lock' connector.

Pinout from the left:

1 - input warn away
2 - input warn away
3 - ground
4 - +12V

I couldn't find any difference between 1 and 2 inputs, it just gives warn away chirps and lamps flashing, thats what i was looking for.

Except i dont understand why my remote reports 'Sensor 2' and hammer icon, like if it was a built in shock sensor triggering. I'll post an updated diagram later.

OK, so i founded out that Sensor 2 = Zone 4, so everything is correct. Zone 4 is for a external MUX port. Too bad its not possible to change that 'hammer' icon without a bit writer.

Anyway here is my final diagram, although i still haven't connected that behind the grill microwave sensor, it simply doesn't sense anything, i guess because of metallic coat, although the grill is plastic. I'll try to place a sensor lower under the bumper.



And last two questions:

-do i also need to place a diode on that sensor output wire which feeds Horn-honk relay (?)

-do i need to separate GWA wires when connecting two sensors ? (i think not, but i just want to be sure). Thanks.

Your diagramme:- delete the diodes except the horn relay, that should have one because of relay onrush (shutdown spike).
Diode esperate the GWA wires otherwise feedback.

Sorry, the wire from the lower m/wave* going to the green door trigger does require a diode, also on the green from between the door switch and that junction.
* It's not PC to call them microwaves, now called field disturbance sensors.

Sorry for my delayed response.

I really don't understand why do i need to separate GWA wires feeding two microwave sensors connected to the same viper input.

Would only one diode be enough? like on my updated diagram:



Also i wonder whether my assumption on MUX identical inputs are correct. And also does viper 5901 have any multiplex input or not?
those older models have such inputs according to their installation manuals, but 5901 doesn't say anything.

Hi, i understand that i need to hold AUX button for like 1.5-2 seconds to pop the trunk.

But i don't understand why H1/1 aux/trunk stays hot for ~2 seconds afterwords.   Then i can hear the trunk lock solenoid to back off.
Is it normal that it lasts 2 seconds?    and i don't think it can be adjusted anywhere.

When i open up a trunk without a remote, i mean just by pressing the button on a dash i don't need to hold it.

you can go into settings and change the duration of the pulse.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

tedmond wrote:

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you can go into settings and change the duration of the pulse.

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Not without a Bitwriter....

ow i see, maybe i'll buy that bitwriter someday.   Its just odd that opening signal is so long by default. For example i hooked up my fuel door to AUX2, and it opens with just a short impulse without any problem. Same type of solenoid unlocks my trunk lock, no need to hold it for 2 seconds.

Anyway, i also wanted to say sorry for the Admin that i've created new topic, and thanks for moving it to this thread, i just forgot about that i should continue here.


And BTW: regarding the separating GWA wires with diodes issue i've been previously asking.
I connected both of my field_disturbance sensors to the same GWA wire (without separating with diodes)   and i don't have any issues.
So they have both +12V constant   and GWA feed.

One sensor protects front bumper, and the other is inside the cabin. Of course i've separated the trigger outputs as described on last diagram i posted.
I've been searching the net and i really cannot find any info, why should i separate the grounds (-12V).

Unless i don't understand Howie 11 statement:

howie ll wrote:

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Diode seperate the GWA wires otherwise feedback.

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what kind of feedback?   like one sensor can trigger the other one through their power supply ground wires (?)

GWA not grounds, actually the reason is that the GWA might be controlling a window closer such as a 530t, or an immobiliser relay, coil feed back along the GWA could destroy your 5901, also diode the triggers, grounds do NOT need separating.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

thanks for your response. So as i only use GWA (ground when armed) to power up my two field disturbance sensors   i shouldn't have any issues.   But i need to remember about adding diodes if i wanted to hook some extras you've mentioned in the future.     Thanks for clearing this up.