any info on new viper 3303?

Any experience with the new Viper 3303 / Clifford 330.3x alarms? They use similar LC3 remotes to the 5901/50.7x. Anyone have the install guide? I found the user guide online and it says that to adjust the on board shock sensor, please see your DEI dealer. Does this mean that a bitwriter is required? I thought that it would be similar to the 5901 where you can adjust the shock sensor from the remote.

Trying to decide on this alarm or possibly a used Clifford 50.7x from a coworker of my nephew. Not interested in remote start.

Thanks
Ed

you should be able to adjust th shock sensor via remotes.

I have only done one of the clifford 3.3x and had so many problems with the remotes.

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Thanks for your reply,

I appreciate your experience as an installer, but I wonder why the user guide would tell you to go to the dealer to adjust it? That implies that you would need a bitwriter, or a secret button combination, known only to dealers, to enable the adjustment.

You say that you've had problems with clifford 3.3x remotes, what's your opinion on the LCD remotes, is this a Viper vs Clifford issue? I'm under the impression that this series of Cliffords are just rebadged Vipers. I happen to like the look of the Clifford remotes better and have also heard that the sirens that come with the Cliffords are slightly better than the ones included with the Viper systems.

Again, thanks for your insight

DEI now owns a mojority of the brands out there. Viper is their premeir line, and python and clifford is just a rebadged unit, but remotes are differant in design.

the clifford siren is bigger, and slightly louder in my opinion.

THe reason it might say take a bitwriter, is because DEI does not like people installing any DEI unit into their own vehicle. They only want to help DEI dealers, so any DIY will be SOL.
However, the shock should be adjustable through the remotes (longer process) the fast way is a bitwriter of course.

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Clifford G5 models are all that's left of the old Clifford Unfortunately, the Vipers, Avitals and Hornets can't compare and the LCD remotes are nothing but trouble.
If you don't need 2 way a Clifford AG5.1 is probably the best product on the market.
None of the above are DIY products.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

As Howie mentioned, the old Clifford line (prior to DEI) was superb. prob the best you can buy IMO.

they respond much faster, but a hell hole to install if you are not a pro. DEI if you do DIY, you will DIE.

but to answer your question, you can without adjust the shock sensor with the remotes, no bitwriter required.

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Funny you should mention the old Clifford line. I purchased a Clifford Intelliguard 700IQ and had it professionally installed, believing it to be one of the best. Other than the irritating fact that the alarm would signal armed status with 2 chirps and flashes and disarm with 1 chirp and 1 flash (not intuitive and opposite to every other alarm I've ever heard), it seemed like a good unit.

Fast forward 9 years, my car is in storage. I go to start the car and the car doesn't start, so I think maybe the alarm (which was turned off) might somehow be the cause. I forgot that I requested the starter interrupt not be installed, since I have EWS II. I notice a funny smell that I thought was just a musty odor from not driving the car for a while.

Turns out the brain caught fire and took out my ABS computer. I checked the fuses and the proper fuses were installed in the alarm harness and OK. Looks like a transistor or internal relay melted down and generated a lot of heat and smoke. The case of the alarm had a dime sized hole melted thru and one of my cars trim panels had smoke damage.

The install shop had since closed and there's no record of my alarm with Clifford. I go about removing my alarm and find that my 1997 E36 M3 is extremely easy to install an alarm. Granted remote start is a whole other story, but I'm not interested in remote start (car to be driven only in summer, manual trans, don't care about cooling car down, etc). I've researched alarm installs in US spec E36s and looking at how the Clifford harness was constructed I understand all the connections (ex: polarity inversion with relays and double lock diodes). I've looked at the 5901 install manual and understand most of the connections except for some DEI terminology, such as why the ignition(pink?) wire is designated input/output, -- input/output implies a bidirectional signal to me (computer engineer). The IQ700 had a main power wire (red) and an ignition (yellow I think) as inputs only.

Anyway, sorry about rambling on, but if I go with a DEI alarm, I'm very confident in my abilities to figure out my specific install (excluding remote start which I don't really want)

Thanks for all of your comments

I still do about one E36 a month, NEVER had any real problems with them except for the following;
You must draw your power from either of the ignition feeds, RED / blue, RED / green or you will get spiking.
Early E36 up to 94 were a PITA, by now any E36 of that vintage has f****d up electrics, window lifter CPU not working, ditto lock and door switch problems.
As for the pink wire being an ignition sense and an output, just believe me it works.
If you do go for R/S remember that tach is a black wire going to instrument panel and the purple ACC wire must be treated as a second ignition or the car won't start.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Nevermind the above question regarding the pink ignition input/output wire for the 5901, I figured it out after thinking about it for a while, I wasn't thinking in a remote start sense, just in an alarm sense. During remote start, this wire must act as the ignition wire as though it was due to the turn of the key.

Regards
Ed

i say just hook up the rs portion if you are messing with the ignition wires anyways.

well wire up what you can, then any other help that you need, we will chime in.

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I have to agree witrh ednigma on that issue of arming status with two chirps and disarm with one! That to me was just plain stupid! Honestly!

The ignition wire will provide ignition output upon remote starting and during armed state will provide ignition tamper alert and ignition locking and unlocking and all that, so that's why it's called input/output!

-------------
COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

howie ll wrote:

---

I still do about one E36 a month, NEVER had any real problems with them except for the following;
You must draw your power from either of the ignition feeds, RED / blue, RED / green or you will get spiking.
Early E36 up to 94 were a PITA, by now any E36 of that vintage has f****d up electrics, window lifter CPU not working, ditto lock and door switch problems.
As for the pink wire being an ignition sense and an output, just believe me it works.
If you do go for R/S remember that tach is a black wire going to instrument panel and the purple ACC wire must be treated as a second ignition or the car won't start.

---

Howie, from what I've seen in previous posts, you seem to be the E36 expert. My Clifford 700IQ was wired using the prewired alarm plug behind the glove box. I've also helped a friend install an Audiovox alarm in his 97 328 using the alarm plug you can get from the dealer. This plug supplies +12, Gnd, ignition, each door trigger, door lock/unlock, hazard light, trunk trigger, dome light, horn and siren. Pretty much every connection you need for a basic alarm only install. Are you saying that the +12 and ignition leads at the car's alarm plug is not suitable?

Also, I think I saw in another post that you said to grab the hazard flash at the hazard switch. The hazard flash is available at the car's alarm plug and is connected to the CrashControlModule so a low amperage signal is adequate -- maybe you are talking about E36s that don't have the alarm plug? Also, are your descriptions of drivers side and pass side referring to LHD or RHD (since I believe you are in the UK).

Regards.. Ed

It's really a chicken and egg situation. Back in '87, was it "No Man's Land" with Charlie Sheen and DB Sweeny, Clifford got it's first major cult sighting, "Don't touch it, it's a Clifford".
They had 2 chirps for on and one off, other companies such as their then greatest rival Viper reversed that procedure just to be different.
When the take over occurred the new bosses wanted to make them all 1 on and 2 off but Clifford dealers protested and that's your answer.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ed, sorry you posted between me turning on computer and writing last post.
Yes, I only ever did one of each L/H/Drive E36 and E46. Both were European specs so no I've NEVER seen the factory plug, always had to hard wire, hence my comments about neg feed to haz switch and indicators rather than lights!
I always try to specify whether the examples I give are L or R hand drive , sorry if I caused any confusion.
The leads at the plug ARE suitable, I think that either being in storage or adverse conditions such as damp may have affected the alarm. In cars that are being used everyday, I've removed still working Clifford Eagles!.....1992 vintage!

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Howie did i step on your clifford nerve? Sorry!

-------------
COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

Howie,

Ah I see, Euro E36s don't seem to come with the Alarm plug. I was surfing some of the BMW forums and saw some discussions of a factory installed alarm and I've seen a exploded parts diag that showed some alarm parts. As far as I can find, all US spec E36 cars came from Europe without alarms -- They were installed at the Port of Entry or by the dealer for maximum profit. The US BMW alarm is a basic Alpine unit that sells for about $400 with dealer installation about $100 - $200.
With the factory prewiring, the dealer can plug and play in less than 30 minutes. Nice meaty bone to throw to the US dealers.

Regards.. Ed

Yes Ed, you're right again, I've never seen that plug on Euro cars BUT:
That plug is there on Ferraris, I once spent hours and hours finding everything, only to be told by a dealer that it's there! Also Renaults and Toyotas (some). Frankly I throw away instructions on late Toyotas, they always follow roughly the same pattern, from the early 90s until now. t&t, sorry my second wind-up for you this week, no offence, it's just that yesterday I spent yet another hour repairing a Viper LCD remote, because a new one retails at wait for it $120 in the UK with programming, they are so badly made.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

hey howie, you got the new vipers (590x) in the UK now?

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

No only the 5701 LED 2 way, so I was right about the 900mhz frequency issue being B.S., as I guessed it was the remotes.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Do you guys know if you need a relay or two for the viper 3303. the door lock harness is kinda different for me. Got everything else wired on another honda accord but not locking or unlocking. I notice on the quick reference install guide, it specifys the relay # for each wire.

Doesn't the 3303 have built in relays? i.e. a lock output with purple, PURPLE / black, GREEN/ black, blue/black, WHITE/ black and BROWN / black?

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

@howie im not quite sure.

Door Lock Harness (H2) 8 Pin connector
VIOLET- UNLOCK #87 NORMALLY OPEN (INPUT)
BLUE/BLACK     - UNLOCK #30 COMMON (OUTPUT)
BROWN / BLACK - UNLOCK #87a NORMALLY CLOSED
VIOLET/BLACK - LOCK #87 NORMALLY OPEN (INPUT)
GREEN/ BLACK - LOCK #30 COMMON (OUTPUT)
WHITE/ BLACK - LOCK #87a NORMALLY CLOSED
WHITE/ VIOLET- FLEX RELAY #87 NORMALLY OPEN (INPUT)
WHITE/ BROWN - FLEX RELAY #87a NORMALLY CLOSED

I hooked up the GREEN/ BLACK to the Lock Negative wire and the BLUE/BLACK to the Unlock negative wire on a 1994 Honda Accord. No luck. then also tried the other wires and no luck also. I used a test wire and grounded the lock/unlock and they work.

Purple, PURPLE / black to ground.
GREEN/ black to lock,
Blue/black to unlock, WHITE/ black, BROWN / black un-used, just like it says in the instructions.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

@howie another question, why does it have 3 wires for the Starter Kill Harness?

GREEN / WHITE - STARTER - COMMON (KEY SIDE)
GREEN              - STARTER - NORMALLY OPEN (MOTOR SIDE)
GREEN/ BLACK - STARTER - NORMALLY CLOSED (MOTOR SIDE)

What is needed? and which goes where. Last night it worked, it killed the starter.   And now the car doesnt start.

There are three wires because you have two wiring options, the normally closed connection would be safer in the long run and allows the car to start in the event you had to unplug the brain of the alarm, the normally open connection may be less safe for the customer, but offers more security, in that, if the would be thief were to remove either power or ground from the unit, the car would not start unless he were to bridge the circuit manually,

If using normally open- The GREEN / WHITE to key side and the green to motor side

if using normally closed- the GREEN / WHITE to key side and the GREEN/ black to motor.

I'm in agreement with t&t here but I have to ask why you are asking these very basic questions, all the answers are in the installation manual.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I'm working off a quick reference guide. The installation manual does not explain anything. I'm not familiar with these terms, but have a good idea on what it is. I just want to double check.

Apologies, ask away.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

No problem this will be the fourth alarm installed, and a lot of thanks from you guys and this site. Viper 3303 installed and functional. Now to try to prohgram some features! Thanks ya.