1998 chevy astro and compustar

Okay my granddad had a Compustar CM1000 installed in his van almost 5 years ago. he has since passed and I have taken over the van. I like the remote start and after doing some research, found out that I could upgrade from the remote i had to one that would give me door lock functionality as well after connecting the appropriate wires. After fooling with my lock switches the other day, i think i have the 5 wire (+) system. The CM1000 i believe is a (-) 150ma trigger. I also probed those wires and I only get 0.1 volts from both wires when at rest and 0 volts when i activate the unlock or lock signal.

I guess what i want to say is that I'm lost as to what to do to get my door locks connected up and working so that i can use my key fob.

Here is a link to Bulldog Security wire guides.  https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp 

Look up your van for the wire color & location.  It has (+) door locks so you will need two relays with fuses to convert the remote starts (-) outputs to a (+) signal to actuate the van's door locks.  Here is a link to the 3 Wire Positive relay setup:   https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#3wp

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the information going to finish this as well as my Retained Accessory Power relay setup.

i now have another problem with this...I have everything hooked up and i can unlock my doors with the remote but I get nothing when I try to lock them...i can hear the relay inside the compustar clicking but my relay does nothing.

i can't edit so here is another post. Doors will unlock with the fob and with the switch doors will not lock with the fob but will with the switch.

Did some more voltage testing and the unlock wires grounds out like it's supposed to when i hit the unlock button, however now when i hit the lock button i get a positive voltage of like 4.5volts.

The relay you hear clicking in the Compustar is probably the parking light relay. 

Double check your lock relay wiring ( https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#3wp ) and make sure you have a good connection to the vans' lock wire.  Should be a Light Blue wire in the same harness you found the UnLock wire. 

To test for the correct wire, use a DMM set to 20v DC.  Black to ground and Red to the suspect wire.  Should get+12v when you press the lock button.

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Soldering is fun!

I've tested every wire in my setup. The only one giving something it shouldn't is the actual trigger wire from the compustar brain. Instead of grounding itself out like the unlock wire will, the lock wire actually raises it's voltage.

Sorry, didn't quite understand your post.   Is that test with the CM10000 (-) Lock output not connected to the relay?  Some relays have built in polarity diodes and need the (-) coil input on Pin 85. 

I couldn't find any documentation on your CM1000 to check it out.  ( I use their CM5x00 and CM6x00 units. )  If it's listed as a (-) 150 mA output with no strapping / programming options other than duration, could be a bad unit. 

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Soldering is fun!

Another quick test you can do while the CM1000 (-) Lock wire is disconnected from the relays is,  using a jumper wire with ground on one end, give the lock relay (-)  lock input wire a quick tap.  That should emulate the input from the CM1000 and actuate the lock relay and the vans locks.  That will verify where the problem lies.

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Soldering is fun!