viper 5701, 2006 toyota corolla

I have a viper 5701 alarm system and I'm trying to hook it up to a 2006 Toyota Corolla ZZ S.

If my security alarm/remote start unit has a pink wire labeled "H3/1 Ignition1 (+) output(which is also ignition sense input)
and another pink wire which is the Remote Start (RS) (-) negative 200mA output.

Do I hook BOTH of those 2 wires up to my ignition wire on my car? (Its the BLACK/ white wire.) I'm confused about the polarity/input/output difference.

My car's Ignition:
https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=899&link=Bulldog

My Viper's wiring diagram:

Do not connect the positive and the negative wires together.  

I can only guess that the 200MA -output is the Ground While Running wire.  This wire shows ground when the vehicle is under a remote start scenario.  Do not connect this wire to any positive wire.

that makes perfect sense.
so positive on the viper can only connect to positive on the car
and negative on the viper can only go to negative on the car

what about the input vs output?
is it the same way?
THANKS ALOT!!
my newborn baby really needs this remote start so that she is not freezing in the winter and burning up in the summer!

I do not know what you are asking about input/output, but I can tell you that if it is labeled output, it is a signal that comes out of the unit.  If it is rated at 200MA, you will need to connect this wire to the coil wire of a relay.  If it is a negative output, you will need to supply the other coil connection with power.  If it is labeled input, this is a wire looking for an output from the vehicle.

	Battery		BLACK		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Ignition 1		BLACK/ WHITE		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Ignition 2		BLACK / YELLOW		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Accessory 1		BLUE/RED		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Starter 1		RED		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

The above wiring info is from the Audiovox web site. This site also has wiring info as well aas www.bulldogsecurity.com.  These wires are where your Heavy Gauge harness will be connected to.

 You should be testing and verifing each wire with a DMM before making any connections. 

12 volt constant on Corolla  to the H3/2, H3/6, and H3/9 wires.  You can also connect the H1/2 Wire here as well  as the power for your bypass module if needed.

Ignition 1 on Corolla to the H3/1 wire

Ignition 2 on Corolla to the H3/7 wire

Accessory 1 on Corolla to the H3/3 wire

Starter wire on Corolla will be cut.  The H3/4 (Violet) will connect to the Starter Side of this cut wire. The H3/5 (Green) will connect to the Key Side of this wire.

What brand of bypass will you be using?

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i am an idiot wrote:

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I do not know what you are asking about input/output, but I can tell you that if it is labeled output, it is a signal that comes out of the unit. If it is rated at 200MA, you will need to connect this wire to the coil wire of a relay. If it is a negative output, you will need to supply the other coil connection with power. If it is labeled input, this is a wire looking for an output from the vehicle.

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Sorry sir I dont know what I was saying? It was late.
I completely agree with what you have said this whole time.


Battery    BLACK IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 1           BLACK/ WHITE        IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 2           BLACK / YELLOW     IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Accessory 1      BLUE/RED IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 1   RED       IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
The above wiring info is from the Audiovox web site. This site also has wiring info as well as bulldogsecurity.com
These wires are where your Heavy Gauge harness will be connected to.
    ***^^^sorry, had trouble with the HTML code^^^***

I dont know about this info? Seems sketchy... It seems like this info is for a different unit? An audio unit(like you said)?
For instance, look at the #1 wire (the black one). When has a Black wire ever gone to a + source? I dont think there is a 12v+ black wire on my car and I know for sure there is not a solid black 12v+ wire on my viper unit. On the viper unit there is h1/5 but its the chassis ground wire.    Sorry it looked cool at first cause it said I could hook ALL those wires up to that Ignition + wire but I realize now that this doesnt help me.. I dont know what I was supposed to get out of it?   

smokeman1 wrote:

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You should be testing and verifing each wire with a DMM before making any connections.

12 volt constant on Corolla to the H3/2, H3/6, and H3/9 wires. You can also connect the H1/2 Wire here as well as the power for your bypass module if needed.

Ignition 1 on Corolla to the H3/1 wire

Ignition 2 on Corolla to the H3/7 wire

Accessory 1 on Corolla to the H3/3 wire

Starter wire on Corolla will be cut. The H3/4 (Violet) will connect to the Starter Side of this cut wire. The H3/5 (Green) will connect to the Key Side of this wire.

What brand of bypass will you be using?

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This seems like great information that can really help me!
(It dumbs it down alot) I wasnt understanding the key side/car side issue but now I do!!! :)

What is this bypass module you speak of? Is it to bypass a previously installed alarm? This car didnt come with an alarm but it has keyless remote entry. If the bypass is not for bypassing the alarm, can you direct me to compatible systems?   THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH I've learned more here than anywhere!

oh ya, am I misunderstanding or can I say that the full harnesses for H2 and RS OUT are optional and dont have to be hooked up? Thanks again!

ezrollin,

You are either smokin' some wild stuff or you're just pulling our legs....Good Luck with your install.

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no sir i dont smoke and am not trying to pull your leg.
I guess I'm just bad at this stuff because I've never done it before.

no sir i dont smoke and am not trying to pull your leg.
I guess I'm just bad at this stuff because I've never done it before.

hes talking about ignition harness,... the black wire is the 12v feed for the ignition switch,... (but i think it may be white). it will be the 12v feed for the remotestart as well. unplug the small harness with neg accessory, neg starter, neg ignition etc it is for wiring additional relays, which you will not need,.. use the blue white wire to do bypass, making that small harness obsolete. either way if you cant test wires you probably shouldnt be doing this blind just going off what strangers tell you.

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GreenGables

remote start....................... vehicle
red(s)          white
pink            BLACK/ white
pink/white black yellow
orange       blue/white
purple        red
for the bypass, tag into blue/white wire then run blue/white wire to ignition harness and put with diode (stripe towards blue wire) to key buzzer wire. good luck mang! dont smoke any BCMs!

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GreenGables

sorry orange from remote start to blue/red

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GreenGables

gabedemelo and smokeman1 wrote:

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for the bypass, tag into blue/white wire then run blue/white wire to ignition harness and put with diode (stripe towards blue wire) to key buzzer wire. good luck mang! dont smoke any BCMs!

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Someone here https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=318807&highlight=ignition+bypass
told me that the bypass is ONLY for people that have factory alarms.
I'm assuming thats true?
I also found it here https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/printpage.asp?ModelID=16128&MakeID=2   It says: "TOYOTA'S TRANSPONDER ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM, Requires 791 Bypass Module and extra Ignition Key" but this is inconclusive to me because I'm not sure if I fully understand it.
Mine had an alarm on it at one time but I'm not sure if it was factory or aftermarket however it was already removed before I received the car.
I'm gonna post an awesome simple wiring diagram, just want you all to confirm it or correct me. (this will be really GOOD for everyone)

I am pretty sure your car has a transponder engine immobilizer.  For the remote start to work, you need to bypass it.  Bulldog's suggests using their Model 791 "Key in the box" bypass ( and placing a working key inside it.)   If you don't want to give up a key, get something like the DEI PKALL bypass module.

Download the PKALL install guide for your car and open up the steering column to verify the immobilizer antenna and 7 Pin connector are present at the ignition switch.  https://www.xpresskit.com/product.aspx?productid=196

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Soldering is fun!

gabedemelo wrote:

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remote start....................... vehicle
   orange............blue/white
   purple............red

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thanks for trying to help...
everything looks correct except for these 2 unclear connection discrepancies:



----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
there are 3 solid oranges on the viper:
     H1/12= ground when armed (-) 500mA out
     RS OUT#2= accessory (-) 200mA out (drives additional accessories)
     H3/3= accessory out for climate control
on the car I see a blue/white and its for the power door lock(-) in the 12 pin harness
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
purple on the remote start.... there is no purple
there are violets, but no purple
I am guessing this is referring to H3/4 for the starter out (car side) which goes to the starter red (+) 12v on the car's side (and not the key side)
Thanks!

sorry, I see you corrected yourself on the orange=blue/red
I show that is right!

SMOKE MAN1 wrote:

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Battery        BLACK           IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 1      BLACK/ WHITE     IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 2      BLACK / YELLOW    IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Accessory 1 BLUE/RED        IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 1       RED             IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
The above wiring info is from the Audiovox web site. This site also has wiring info as well as bulldogsecurity.com
These wires are where your Heavy Gauge harness will be connected to.
    ***^^^sorry, had trouble with the HTML code^^^***

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Dang, SMOKEMAN1
After reviewing the wiring diagrams more I see that you are clearly right.
Instead of telling me I am smoking something you should've said that:
some cars have a WHITE 12v (+) ignition wire which is 25amps (BIG)   
some cars (LIKE MINE) have a BLACK 12v (+) ignition wire which is only 15amps (SMALL)
again, thanks for trying to help

PLEASE REVIEW THIS TO SEE IF I GOT IT RIGHT!
THE STUFF THAT IS CIRCLED IS THE STUFF THAT I'M NOT SURE ABOUT!

https://i56.tinypic.com/2qdx2xi.jpg
https://i51.tinypic.com/fk3y9t.jpg
https://i51.tinypic.com/289g0tz.jpg
https://i52.tinypic.com/10fdn2u.jpg

sorry, I havent learned to work this wierd forum yet...
1st
2nd
3rd
4th

kreg357 wrote:

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I am pretty sure your car has a transponder engine immobilizer.  For the remote start to work, you need to bypass it.  Bulldog's suggests using their Model 791 "Key in the box" bypass ( and placing a working key inside it.)   If you don't want to give up a key, get something like the DEI PKALL bypass module.

Download the PKALL install guide for your car and open up the steering column to verify the immobilizer antenna and 7 Pin connector are present at the ignition switch.  https://www.xpresskit.com/product.aspx?productid=196

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dude your link was broken but according to that site, my 2006 does have an immobilizer (contradictory to all wiring guides I've seen but it figures.....)
<found it on that site here>

I used to have a 2002 Chevy and the key "computer chip" was ONLY a 18k ohm resistor...   
Is that basically the same situation in the bulldog bypass 791? Does the bypass 791 just make the connections through the resistor? This 2006 corolla only came with 1 key and I been meaning to get more...

The Toyota Corolla uses a transponder type immobilizer system.  The 2002 Chevy you mentioned probably used GMs' PassLock resistor based immobilizer system.  They are very different.  The Bulldog 791 bypass module can do either type system ( as detailed in the 791 install guide ), but...

As you only have one working key, you can't use the Bulldog 791 or any "Key in the Box" bypass and hide your only key under the dash.  Fortunately, the PKALL will program to your car with only one key ( some cars / bypasses require 2 working keys, like Fords ).  Your remote start will work and you still have your key.

Just a bit of info for you.  While it is expensive, I would go to a Toyota Dealer and get another key cut and programmed to the car.  If you lose your only working key, the cars computer must be replaced ( or re-flashed ).  Much more expensive than getting a spare key now. 

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Soldering is fun!

yes sir I agreed with you.
This morning I ordered the bulldog 791 and an extra key off ebay (CHEAP)
To program and cut the key it will be an extra $65

I regret it now but I went with the bulldog 791 cause I thought the DEI PKALL was going to temporarily require 2 keys? (Still not sure on that one)

I installed almost all wires today (I worked from 1pm - 5pm? The H1, H2, H3, RS OUT wires are WAY too long and the RS IN is way too short.

I'm finding bits of a previous alarm that wasnt really hooked up.. I dont know if its factory or aftermarket but it doesnt have markings like an aftermarket would. I'm wondering if there is already a 791 up in there somewhere?

They put the factory fuse box in THE WORST POSITION!! I think I nearly had a stroke having to check all my fuses today.

I'm still not sure on alot of wires so thats what my next post is going to be: specific wire questions
Thanks again!

The Bulldog 791 is a black box a little larger than a pack of cigarettes.  If you had one previously installed, there should be an antenna ring around the outer edge of the ignition cylinder with a pair of wires go back to the 791 module. 

The PKALL will program with only one working key.  It is something to think about doing in the future.  Having a working key hidden under the dash is a liability.  Be carefull if you get the PKALL off EBay.  The PKALL can only be programmed once, so make sure it is NIB, un-used and guaranteed to work.

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Soldering is fun!

wow thats important information! I try to only order from the top rated sellers for reasons like that (oddly enough the people I bought the viper from were top rated yet the wires on the H3 were ALL scrambled around and they labeled it as Remanufactured yet when I got the box it said Refurbished! Huge difference!)
I bought the viper for the brand image... at the time I didnt know of any better competitors and didnt have an account to like, consumer reports.com
I didnt really get the viper for security, I wanted the Rem Start for my baby. Badass security is just a cool addition to the Rem Start! This one is for my wife's car. Soon I will buy one for my car and I'll try to get the DEI PKALL.
I was scared because the PKALL looked like more wires than the 791 haha

Nobody has anything to comment on my well laid out wiring diagrams that I have put together at the bottom of page 2?
Its only the rough draft but I hope it will help future users

I have my 791 and am attempting to hook it up but I have yet to receive my extra key I ordered this last monday... (its all I lack)

I'm finding discrepancies in my factory wiring vs websites like:
bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp

I'm trying to hook up my 791 bypass:
According to this website: bulldogsecurity.com   - 791 bypass
I only have to hook up 3 wires. The red to 12v+, the Orange to ground, and the blue (negative, input) to what I think is on the viper (rs status out, negative) and I think I need to put a diode between it to make sure I dont get feedback from the vehicle?
thanks

There are always differences between the wiring guides.  Bulldog is usually close, AudioVox a little worse, Directwire is very good but for dealers only.  Remember these are only guides.  Always test and verify with a Digital Multi Meter.

You can temporarily put your key in the 791 to see if it remote starts.  If the Vipers' (-) Status Output is only going to the 791s' Blue wire, no diode is needed.  Only the 3 wires you listed are required.

Wiring Comments:

First Picture -  All wires listed, red, red, RED / white & RED / black need +12v constant.  A 15A source might be insuficiant.    H3/8 is not used and gets insulated.    Keysense is usually only needed if the car has a factory alarm.  If  you want to connect it, use the Vipers (-) 200 mA Second Status Output at Remote Start Input 5 pin connector, Blue/White wire at pin 5.

Second Picture -  H1/11 - set Viper jumper to (-) and attach to cars (-) parking light wire at light switch.    Domelight supervision.  If unlocking your car with the factory remote turns on the dome light, you don't  need this connection.

Third Picture - OK

Fourth Picture - Too small to read.

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Soldering is fun!

If your car is an automatic, you must change the Viper's' default programming.  Menu 3, Item 1, Opt 2.  Also the Neutral Safety Switch wire should be connected to chassis ground.

If you are going to connect the tach wire you must change Menu 3, Item 2, Opt 4.   Then you must do a Tach Learn process before you can try a remote start.  ( Running in Tach mode is the most reliable way to get the car started. )

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Soldering is fun!

Sorry I dont know where I got that my parking light system is the ( + ) system. I dont know if I found it somewhere in the car's electrical schematic? I couldnt find it anywhere..

Thanks for all the info, that is definately needed!!
I'm scared to hook it up until I'm sure I've got everything right

I'll try uploading # 4 again:

If you cant see that then you can
type:   https://i55.tinypic.com/2ur8cpc.jpg    in your web browser's address bar at the top. Then right click on the image and choose save image or something like that to save it to your desktop where you can open it in something like paint or photoshop,etc and you can then zoom in!   thanks

Picture 4 looks OK.  Of course that is going by the wiring guide lists available and the comments previously made ( Neutral Safety, power wires, keysense, (-) Status, etc ).  You will still need to verify all the wires with a DMM.

I usually like to use the low current Parking Light wire.  It's safer and often times easier to find.  Your car has both (-) and (+) wires available so it's your choice, just set the Viper jumper accordingly.

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Soldering is fun!