08 tsx, viper 5901

Greetings. I'm installing a Viper 5901 in my 08 TSX and have gotten through the alarm part with no issues and have some questions on the remote start.

I'm using a PKH34 bypass module and going to wire it w2w. on the wire guide, it says to connect it to the security light wire (key and ECM side). I guess that's the flashing red LED on the dash. It's not listed on the wiring diagram. Do I actually need to connect it, or can I just tape off the wires? It still flashes since the factory alarm works side by side with the Viper. Any help is appreciated!

Ok, I havent hooked up the PKH34 yet because I want to test the remote start with the key in the ignition to make troubleshooting easier. Problem is that I get the 7 flashes error (which actually doe sent flash, but I just hear the relay). I assume it wants to see the shutdown sequence for manual, but I have auto. I can't seem to get to change the programing. I get to menu 3, option 1 and can't figure out how to change it from there. It says to hold down the valet button While pressing the lock button on the remote, but it just goes to option 2 when I do that. What gives?

Got the remote start working...kinda. It just keeps cranking. I didn't hook up the tach wire. The problem before was the NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT. Just need to find the tach wire now, install the PKH34 and clean it up.

Any ideas yet on the security light connection?

Tach wire is a BLUE wire at pin # 25 AT PCM MODULE IN FRONT OF CENTER CONSOLE UNDER DASH. The security light wire will have to be cut in half and it's BLUE/ORANGE at pin # 5 at the immobilizer harness in the steering wheel.

Content below courtesy of Stephane at iDatalink:
If the remote starter energizes the ignition and the vehicle cranks but fails to start, the following should be verified:

1- Ensure the Ground When Running (-) Status is energized before the vehicle ignition.
2- Ensure the Remote Starter doorlocks settings are NOT set to send Unlock before start (also known as secure lock). The vehicle OEM alarm disarm has to be controlled by the remote starter disarm command, not by the remote starter unlock command. Timings are criticals and different on both commands.
3- Ensure the LED of the module blinks upon a remote start attempt, if the LED doesn't blink the module doesn't receive the GWR signal. The module might be programmed in the wrong mode (Data/Hardwire), the remote starter may not be set for the appropriate bypass protocol DBI, iDatalink or others, or, the module is been flashed with an incomaptible protocol with the remote starter.
In all cases ensure the protocol selected for both devices are compatible and ensure proper mode is selected during module programming.

In 4 points most remote start failures are adressed. All cases are experienced during the install and can be adressed very rapidly.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Thanks for the response.

The PCM is not easy to get to. I'm going to try to figure it out another way. The engine starts, it just does not disengage the starter. I changed the starter time to .8 seconds, but it just keeps it engaged.

Also, there seems to be an issue with the starter kill. The relay does not close when the alarm is disarmed, it's also open when it's armed. I know it works because the only way to start the car is to engage the remote start, put the key in the II position and turn off the remote start :( . It was working fine before and I have not changed any wiring.

The siren also does one chirp when I turn the key to the off position. Grrr this is getting frustrating.

You can get the tach wire at the injectors as well. The starter not disengaging is because the immobilizer is not bypassed properly. If the security LED is flashing in the dash when remote started, it's because the bypass module is not sending the proper code to the immobilizer.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Rog. Got it for the starter not disengaging. Thanks.

What about the starter kill not disengaging when the alarm is disarmed?

I have been testing it with the key in the ignition also.

Do you have another relay you can temporarily use in plac eof the starter kill ?

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

I do, but I don't think it's the relay that's not working right since it works fine for remote start. I just don't know where else to troubleshoot. Maybe in the settings?

Ok. I see what you mean. It sounds like there is only one relay doing anything when I press disarm. How would I hook up an external one?

I did some tinkering and found out that I can start it with the key if I only push in the left side of the H3 plug, but when I plug in the whole plug, it won't start with the key

Can I just solder a wire in the brain and just bypass the starter kill? I don't really care about that feature. I'm not worried about someone stealing my car, at least not by starting it.

You mentioned the starter doesn't disengage? And you also have trouble with the starter kill? Have you double checked the connections for starter and ignition?

Yes I did check it. I went by https://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=706816 since the install was very similar. The starter wire on the TSX is BLACK/ white though unlike the TL.

Another thing, on the wiring diagram https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~99069 it says that the parking light wire in the steering column is neg. I tested it and it shows 12v when off and 0 when on when I test using +12v. Is this right? Wouldn't it read 0 when off, then 12 when on?

For the parking light wire, how are you testing it?  Connect the DMM red lead to constant +12v and connect the black lead to the (-) Parking Light wire.  The DMM should be set to 20v DC ( unless it is auto-ranging ) and will show +12 volts when the parking lights are turned on.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

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For the parking light wire, how are you testing it?  Connect the DMM red lead to constant +12v and connect the black lead to the (-) Parking Light wire.  The DMM should be set to 20v DC ( unless it is auto-ranging ) and will show +12 volts when the parking lights are turned on.

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It's the opposite
I set it up just like that, but when the lights are off, it reads 12v and when lights are on, 0v.

Also, the starter kill just started working right out of the blue. IDK why it was acting up before, but at least I know how to start it if it messes up again.

The proper (-) parking light wire will read 12 volts (+) at rest and will go to ground when turned on. the reading on the voltage will vary from 12 volts down to 5 volts depending on the vehicles circuitry.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Thanks for the help so far. I put everything back together and tucked everything up under the dash (somehow I'm left with 4 screws though... ) There are a couple loose ends I have to tie up one weekend.

Fix the problem of the starter not engaging. IDK if it's due to the tach not reading right or what.

Connect the brake wire to the unit. I thought the XH01 took care of that, but the brake won't stop the starter.

Connect the parking lights to the H1 harness. Again, I thought the XH01 module took care of that too, but the parking lights don't come on when remote start is initiated, nor during the panic feature.

Figure out why the PKH34 module is not bypassing the transponder.

Calibrate the sensors. Got it on silent mode tonight.

Ok, got the brake wire hooked up, PKH34 bypass module working (had to connect the brown GWR wire to status output from Viper brain) and the parking lights working.

On the parking lights, I just connected it to the + just above the fuse box in the driver side kick panel.

The wiring diagram said the brake wire was + and in the 42 pin white plug above the fuse box, but it just read +12v at rest, then went to ground when the pedal was pressed. I just connected the brake wire straight to the brake switch and it works great.

The only problem I have now is the starter is too quick to disengage. Sometimes it just kicks in and won't even go long enough to start it. The viper unit doesn't know better and give me an engine running confirmation (can lead to dead battery if you don't know). I set the starter crank time to 1.0 sec and turned off anti-grind and it still cuts out early. I'm using Virtual Tach and also reset that and recalibrated it according to the instructions, but no luck yet.

I tried to measure a fuel injector and ignition coil, but they both just read a constant +14v DC and 30v AC when running on the non-common wire. Any ideas?

This info from Bulldog Security:
 
  TACH         BLUE             @ ECM/PCM See NOTE *2
   
NOTE *2  THE ECM/PCM IS ON THE FRONT OF THE TRANSMISSION TUNNEL.THE CONNECTORS ARE ON THE PASSENGER SIDE.
                   THE TACH WIRE IS IN THE WHITE 31 PIN CONNECTOR E, PIN 25.

This info from AudioVox:

Tachometer  BLUE  (AC)  AT PCM MODULE IN FRONT OF CENTER CONSOLE UNDER DASH -  Pin 25

This connection ( PCM ) is inside the car.  ( No firewall, heat, vibration, etc...)

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Soldering is fun!

Yeah I know it's there, but it's too tight of an area to work in comfortably.

Think it's why it's not always starting?

I always try to run in Tach mode.  Hondas' crank time can vary a lot.  No problems when its very cold, the R/S always cranks the car long enough. 

As a side note, the Tach wire is one of the few places where you can "try it" without hurting anything.  The R/S Tach wire is high impedence input and does not affect the wire it's attached to.  This connection should be soldered, especially if it's at a coil or F.I.  I would go to any convenient F.I.  They only have 2 wires, so just connect to the non common color wire and try to Tach Learn the Viper ( while the car is at a warm engine idle ).  Remember to re-program the Viper to Tach mode.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for all the help. I ran the tach wire to one of the coils and it works every time. I'm trying to wrap up a few loose ends since I have been able to use the system for a couple weeks.

First off:

1) I need to know a good location for the Doubleguard shock sensor since the one in the brain is not sensitive enough even on the highest setting. Should I epoxy it to the frame somewhere?

2) I have an extra siren. Any ideas as to where I should mount it? It's the piezo one. Should I run a wire and just splice in anywhere on the Viper siren or should I run the wire to the siren wire inside the car so someone can't cut it from under the car?

3) Comfort closure- How do I get that to work with my car? I can close the windows by putting the key in the door and locking it twice and holding it. I have the KP Technology window up module for my car, but it has never worked. Maybe I can mess with that and get it to work with 2 lock pulses?

4) Defroster and seat heater aux outputs- How do you connect that? Does the brain power them or just activate the switch? The defroster has a button and seat heaters have a switch.

5) Any way to relocate the temp probe? I don't know who decided we cared what temp it is behind the dash....

6) Horn - I want to hook the horn up to an aux output. I can't find the wire in the steering column. Any ideas? (This is my last priority)

7) Sunroof closure - Any idea how I would go about hooking it up to close when I lock it, like with the comfort closure?

I know this is a lot of stuff, but I want to wrap it up pretty soon so I can make a DIY for this car. Thanks in advance!

Bump. Anyone?

I'm getting ready to mount the shock sensor. Any experience with locations for it in a TSX or Accord?

the ignition wire loom.

thats where i mounted mine on my 09 accord (same vehicle). fromt he ignition loom, trace it down and it will bend towards the left towards the fuse box. i have it around the bend area, so i can access it by sticking my head unde the dash to adjust if needed.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert