viper 5901 and pkall

I am trying to install a Viper 5901 using a PKALL bypass module on an '09 F-250. I am sure I will have a few questions but my first obstacle is on the PKALL. I see the RX and TX lines on my wiring diagram, and I realize the status line from the Viper goes to the blue white 'while running' line. My question is the PKALL ignition line (Pink). The ignition has a lot of wires, which wire does it go to? I imagine the power and ground to the module will be supplied by the D2D cable, but 'ignition' in the install instructions is a bit vague for a rookie. Any help would be appreciated.

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MarkD

hook it to the IGN wire you will power at the IGN switch

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

So you are saying to connect it to the ignition power wire, live +12V. In the case of an 09' F-250, the blue/red wire?

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MarkD

No connect it to the WHITE/ orange which is ignition. The blue/red is constant. The WHITE/ orange is ignition meaning no power when the car is off but gets power when it is being cranked and on.

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Confidence is the key to any project!!

Thank you!

So that is the ignition Run/Start line. Now on the Viper side:

The Viper has an 'ingnition 1 Input/Output' (pink; H3/1) line on the heavy gauge connector. I presume this wire also goes to the WHITE/ orange (run/start) wire.

I think the starter wire (Blue/White) needs to be cut, the ignition side tied to the 'Starter Input' line of the Viper ( Green; H3/5 ) and the starter side of the wire goes to the 'Starter Output' line (violet; H3/4). Is this correct?

It would also appear that this alarm has the 'starter kill relay' is built in, so I don't have to add one. Is this correct?

I imagine I don't connect anything to the +30A fused accessory line (RED / Black; H3/9), unless I want to power a rear defroster (which I don't have, though I do have a mirror defroster) on the accessory output line (Orange; H3/3). Is this correct?

To wrap up the remote start function I need to connect the 'Brake Shutdown wire' (Gray; pin 3 of remote start input 5 pin connector) to the violet/ white wire of the brake switch. If the virtual tach works, then I won't need to connect the tach wire I presume.

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MarkD

H3/1 goes to WHITE/ Orange.

Starter kill relay is built in and your wiring is correct.

H3/9 should be connected to suitable +12v constant.  Your truck has two Accessory wires.  You can connect H3/3 to one and re-program the Vipers' flex relay to Accessory 2 and connect H3/7 to the trucks ACC2 wire.  Your two accessory wires supply power to run things like heat, A/C, radio, etc.

There should be a Tach wire in the drivers kick panel or by the brake pedal in the Customer Access Harness.  It is Blue (AC).  In case Virtual Tach doesn't work well........

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Soldering is fun!

Like H3/9, Does that mean that I also have to connect H3/2 and H3/6 to a suitable constant 12V like the blue/red supply to the ignition (or directly to the battery circuit)?

I presume the 2 accessory lines you are refering to are the Violet/Green (Acc/Run) and the BROWN / Yellow (Sometimes Yellow/Orange, Run line).

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MarkD

Yes.  The Viper get its' power on H1/2, H3/2, H3/6 and H3/9.  Suitable source is one that can handle the Vipers' expected load.

Yes on the two accessory wires.  Those are the colors that Bulldog and AudioVox list, but it's best to verify with a DMM.

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Soldering is fun!

Well I finally got around to instaling this system. I have everything working except the door lock/unlock. The install guide for the viper 5901 says the 3 pin connector:

pin 1 (Blue) is a (+) lock (-) unlock. I connected this to the Yellow/Violet wire for (-) unlock.

pin 3 (Green) is a (+)unlock (-) lock. I connected this to the Blue/Green wire for(-)  lock.

Prior to connecting I grounded the Yellow/Violet wire to confirm the doors unlocked, they did.

Prior to connecting I grounded the  Blue/Green wire to confirm the doors locked, they did.

Connected they don't work by the viper. I figure this probably means I need to program the viper to output a negative pulse for lock and unlock. Or more likely, I found a quick reference guide that called these 2 pins by a different name,  (-) 500mA unlock and Lock outputs. This probably indicates I need to hook up relays that will ground the Lock and Unlock vehicle lines. Anybody know which it is?

MarkD

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MarkD

From what I see and read,  you should not need relays for the door locks.  Try switching the wires.  On a 5301, I connected the wires backwards once and mine did the opposite of what the buttons were for.

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Apparently I was tired, it turned out to be that I didn't plug the connector all the way into the alarm. Lock/ Unlock do work as expected once the connector is seated!

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MarkD

If I it makes you feel any better I did the same thing tonight.