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automatically close doors/trunk

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=123622
Printed Date: May 02, 2024 at 1:33 AM


Topic: automatically close doors/trunk

Posted By: tillithz
Subject: automatically close doors/trunk
Date Posted: September 21, 2010 at 8:48 PM

Ok, I have a 09 Honda Odyssey van that has sliding doors.What I want to do is close the doors/trunk ONLY if they were left open when I arm the alarm. Basically you can just walk away and arm car and itll do the rest for you. Could someone proof my drawing (attached) let me know if I made any mistakes and if it should work. Thanks in advance.

posted_image



Replies:

Posted By: pitoaudiovisual
Date Posted: September 21, 2010 at 10:22 PM
looks good. Good luck

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Confidence is the key to any project!!




Posted By: tillithz
Date Posted: September 21, 2010 at 10:39 PM
Hey, thanks alot. Its been a little while since I've really done creative stuff to a car. thanks again




Posted By: tillithz
Date Posted: September 22, 2010 at 2:06 AM
welp, on the bench the tr7 performs properly, but as soon as the tr7 is connected to the relay array, it keeps cycling on its own. I think somethings backfeeding or spiking. any thoughts? thanks




Posted By: awdeclipse
Date Posted: September 22, 2010 at 8:08 AM
I was interested in doing the same thing for my 2009 Dodge Grand Caravan. Didn't plan on using a TR7 module though. No after market alarm in my car so I don't believe there is any kind of armed output or status signal. (Haven't looked into it much)Is it of any benefit to use the armed output instead of a lock pulse? Potential problem with lock pulse is you could press the lock button on the door and then open doors would close... Using Armed status ensures you are ready to leave the vehicle.

I was planning on doing similar setup, a relay for every door controlling one coil side from the door pin and then the other side off of the lock motor output. So pressing lock would pulse the relays. Pin30 connected to ground, and Pin87 to the power door trigger.

Do you think you need the PTR7? I like how it won't energize the relays every time the doors are open though. I don't know if you have to hold the buttons down on your vehicle to close the doors or not. On the G/C you can just press the buttons on the overhead console for the power doors, you don't have to hold them or anything. Relying on the lock motor pulse might not be enough for my situation.

Keep us posted, curious how it works out for you. I need to get some wiring info on the door pins for my van before I can do much.




Posted By: tillithz
Date Posted: September 22, 2010 at 9:46 AM
Well in addition to this relay array, I got an idatalink piece that controls a good portion of the system. Doors, trunk, tach, and transponder bypass. But I like your door lock idea, problem being for the Honda though is the time needed to trigger the system. It does need a few seconds (or at least a full second) to see you want to close the door. Actually in your case with the grand caravan, if you have positive door pins, it might be easier.

I am actually still stuck with the relay either backfeeding or spiking something and causing the tr7 to go into a loop. not sure how to remedy it, anyone have any ideas? thanks




Posted By: awdeclipse
Date Posted: September 22, 2010 at 11:56 AM
So the TR7 works correct on the bench by itself, no relays attached and checking the output after latching the input to Ground?

Have you tried using all suitable outputs for mode#12 Orange and White to see if you get the same behavior when hooked up to a relay? What about using the Blue(+) output and changing around your main switching relay to be a positive trigger instead?

How are you testing it on the bench when it seems to work correctly? What kind of load are you using to verify the input/output behavior?




Posted By: tillithz
Date Posted: September 22, 2010 at 12:57 PM
I have a power supply I use for testing on bench, and it works through the first relay on the far right of the pic. but once connected to the other 3 door/trunk relays it just keeps cycling. I figured it out though, and turns out I do need to diode EACH relay that the doors are connected to. I went ahead and diode on all four relays though for good measure. works well now!




Posted By: awdeclipse
Date Posted: September 29, 2010 at 11:55 AM
How is everything working out after a few days? Does the idatalink module you are using give you individual door triggers as well or did you have to pull those separately off the vehicle?

Originally I was going to see if I could do this without a module, but if spending some money will make things quicker and allow me to cut up that many fewer wires on the van I see it as a good buy.




Posted By: tillithz
Date Posted: September 29, 2010 at 12:55 PM
it works great. yes you do have to grab the doors individually. The idatalink only puts out a status for trunk/doors together. which is fine for the alarm side of things, it is the enhanced part that most people wont do on this van that requires the doors individually. I actually did it the other way without the module before, I had 4 tr7's and nearly a dozen relays, but this is so much cleaner and a better use of the current in the vehicle (namely energizing relays when not needed if a door where to be left open). definitely go with a module like idatalink.





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