viper 5901 in a 2003 ford f 250

New guy here. I have never installed an alarm before. I ordered a Viper 5901 for my 2003 Ford F-250. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Here is a link to Bulldog Security for their wiring guide :  https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp   They include some nice pictures, too.

Here is a link to AudioVox for their wiring guide & tips :  https://techservices.audiovox.com/Login.aspx   Sign-up is free.

These are only guides.  Always verify all wires with a DMM. 

This site has the 5901 Install Guide in the Downloads section.  Just go to Downloads and search on "Viper 5901".  ( Your 5901 might be the newer version. )

Pay special attention to Bulldogs' Note #1 about the door locks and the Ford GEM module...

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Soldering is fun!

What is that relay part number and the diode size?

The relays' generic name is  30/40 Amp SPDT relay.  I believe they are available in better automotive part stores.  Also available online.

The diode is a 1N4001 but a 1N4004 will also work.  They are available at places like RadioShack.  Also available online.

This site has some good basic info on Diodes and Relays.  Look at the blue bar across and near the top of the screen.

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Soldering is fun!

Alright, I now have the diodes and relays. Since I don't have the alarm yet but am trying to round u everything I am going to need, can someone tell me what the majority of the wire sizing is so I can get connectors and extra wire.

In a typical install, you can locate the Viper 5901 in a position that will allow the supplied wires on the harnesses to reach their connection points.  There will also be many unused wires so they can be cut and added to any short wires if necessary.  

For the best reliability, it is recommended that all connections be soldered and insulated with quality tape or heat shrink tube. 

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Soldering is fun!

Have you purchased a bypass module yet? 

Plan on at least the entire weekend for your install. You will be spending time upside down verifing wires. As mentioned by kreg357, soldering is the best connection. I use a Weller 260/200w soldering gun. Heats up those heavy gauge wires real quick. I tried a 140/100 watt soldering gun, but it doesn't do very well on the heavy wires.  

My first install I tried scotch locks with miserable results.   I'm not a pro at this stuff, I have learned 95 percent of my stuff from the great people of this site.  I have done my cars, my kids cars and my brothers with great results thanks to the pro's here.  I guess I'm a Pro-DIYer.

Good Luck. Take your time. Double check all your wires. Use a good quality tape like Scotch Super 33+.

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From what I have read I do not need a bypass module.

Think only the F150's had them that year.  Check your ignition key or get a plain key cut for $1.89 and try to start it.

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Soldering is fun!

Anything else? I am getting excited to get this done.

Keep some adrenaline you might need it when you start the install. LOL. Make sure and verify you don't need a bypass, do what Mr. Kreg told you.

Read and study the Viper 5901 install guide.  There is a lot to know and do. 

Assuming your truck has auto trans.  The Viper comes defaulted for manual transmissions.  You must change a program option to make it set for automatic transmission.   Menu 3, Item 1, Option 2.

Looks like your truck has 2 ignition and 2 accessory circuits.  ( Test and verify with DMM. )  The Viper comes with the Flex relay set for Ignition 2 so use that for IGN2.  You will need an extra 30/40 Amp relay and 20 Amp fuse for Accessory 2.  Relay control can be supplied by the Orange wire marked (-) 200mA Accessory Output on the 5 pin Remote Start Aux Output connector.

Tach mode is the most reliable method to start the truck.  If you have a diesel, there is a tach signal wire under the dash by the Aux Trailor Harness.

Drink plenty of water and take frequent breaks...

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Soldering is fun!

Help  I don't know what to do.  I have started my install.  On the remote start harness there is an

Ignition 1 input/output

and

(+) (30A) Fused Ignition 1 relay input

Do they hook to the same wire.  The same thing with Igninition 2.  I am lost.

H3/1 is your Ignition 1 output ( basically ).  Connect to the trucks Ignition 1 wire at the ignition switch.

H3/7 is your Ignition 2 output.  The Viper comes with this as the factory default setting.  Connect to the trucks Ignition 2 wire at the ignition switch.   H3/8 is not used.

H3/2, H3/6 and H3/9 all go to a suitable +12v power source.  ( there might be multiple Light GREEN/ Purple wires that are +12v constant at the ignition switch.

If you find more than 1 accessory during your test and locate phase, you will need additional relays and fuse holders/fuses.

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Soldering is fun!

Can H3/2, H3/6 and H3/9  all be connected to the same source?

Sometimes.  Depends on the load on the Vipers' IGN1, IGN2, ACC and Starter circuits.  If you are connecting to a heavy gauge wire at the trucks' ignition switch, assume a heavy (20A + ) draw.   I believe you will find multiple +12 constants at the ignition switch.  Look for and test any solid Yellow or Light GREEN/ Purple wires at the switch and split up the wires accordingly.  Also remember to connect H1/2 to a +12v constant.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the help.  I ended up tying them to my heavy amp power wire.  Everything seems to work fine.

Excellent!  

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Soldering is fun!