07 civic si where to find arm/disarm

i did my friends 09 Si, and its not there.

look behind the fuse box, towards the left heading to the door. there is a blue and white plug. factory arm, disarm and door locks are all there

tach is at the injector. i used YELLOW /GREEN

Nice picture.  That connector at the top is where you can get your door triggers.  Diode isolate.

As Ted pointed out the Lock, UnLock, Arm and DisArm are around the back of that fuse box and up high.  It's difficult to get to and you will have to open up the wire harness for access.  ( like hold the clutch pedal down with the back of your head difficult )

Again, follow Teds info on the Tach wire.  Any fuel injector, un-common color wire.  I found the #1 F.I. was the easiest to get to.

as kreg mentioned, in that connector you can get all triggers and i was never able to find the hood pin, so i just ran one of my own instead.

you can also get trunk release and all the start, ign and acc wires. my entire install for the 09 civic was very stealth, following all factory wires, and everything was tapped at the fusebox, besides bypass module

is the dome light supervision at the lower fuse box (blue connector) next to the yelow connector?

If the interior lights come on with an unlock, you really don't need dome light supervision.

The green key blinking on the instrument cluster is a immobilizer bypass problem.  Did the Fortin program properly and give the 10 blinks?  Double check your wiring ( that data connection should be soldered ) Fortin PURPLE / White to Civic Light Green at Pin 3.  I'll let Ted ( our Fortin expert ) answer the re-programming question.

The UnLock should be Gray in the 34 Pin MICU connector at pin 27.  The Lock ( Green ) is right next to it at Pin 28.  These two wires can also be found in the Drivers Kick Panel in the harness going to the door.  Its harder to get to than the MICU connector...  The two doors' Lock wire is a different color ( Blue ).

If the bypass is still a problem, try inserting an ignition key into the cylinder but not turning it.  Then try a remote start.  That will clarify the situation.

kreg357 wrote:

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Nice picture.  That connector at the top is where you can get your door triggers.  Diode isolate

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I used to work at a Honda dealership installing. My memory isnt too good, but im pretty sure I used to get the door trigger somewhere below the fusebox. I think its a white connecter (pink wire).  Its close to the wires that go into the door. It was only 1 wire, and didnt need to diode isolate. Ive installed so many alarms and/or remote starters on Hondas....I dont even need a wiring diagram for them. lol Im not doubting you....just throwing that out there.

Edit- Just looked it up. I think its the domelight supervision that I would tap into. I would just use the door trigger wire from the alarm to connect to it tho.

dont use the domelight wire. i tried it and it didnt do much but fault all the time.

run the wires for the individual door triggers and diode isolate them all. very easy to get to.

on that note, the KOA (key override all) do not try to program it more than 2 times. if you do the bypass will lock up and you wil be SOL. the blue wire from the 6pin harness will go to the compustars ground when running forgot the colour off the top of my head. think its light blue or black.

looking at the picture you took, the connector above the ones covered in grey will have your door triggers, including trunk. from the far right, you will see a red wire, and above is blue. 4 pins to the left of the red wire is the driver door trigger, and above that wire is the passenger left rear door. Next to the driver door trigger (or 5 pinds left of the red wire) is the trunk pin. 

Im not going to argue, but im pretty sure (not 100% confident) that I used the domelight supervision wire without a problem. I used Audiovox, DEI, Omega...etc. alarms. I worked at one of the busiest dealerships in the country, so ive installed alot of these alarms. (I know that doesnt mean I know how to install) I never had someone come back to me about the alarm tripping. Maybe Honda's wiring is different in other countries? Who knows. Im going to look through some of my install pictures....maybe I took pics of a Civic ive done in the past.

From my side of the pond, looking at that fuse box and comparing to a 07 civic looks basically the same as  what i encounter (just on the wrong side) lol, i take my door trigger and trunk trigger from thr front of the fuse panel (no diode isolation required, indicators taken from front of fusebox also positive trigger diode isolated,  locks i interrupt the motor wires leading in to driver door and five wire them, as the wires are easy to access they're directly facing me when you look at the connector leading into the door,  to pull down that fuse box and manouver those harnesses to access those trigger wires are just painful, lol just lazy i guess.

And the best advice for this car was from an earlier post.  KarTuneMan passed on this tip.

Use the (-) low current Parking Light wire ( Gray ) in the steering column at the switch.  The (+) Red Parking Light wire can be hazardous as there are two Red wires in the same area that test the same but if you choose poorly, it will destroy the Blue lights on the instrument cluster...

if you get the unlock wire, it will unlock all doors at once.

and as kreg mentioned use the negative parking lights.

The Red Parking light wire is (+) and the Gray Parking Light wire (-).  Connect to only one.  The Gray (-) Parking Light wire is easy to locate and verify with a DMM.  You didn't mention which compustar you have but the newer CM5x00 and CM6x00 that I am familiar with have a (+) and a seperate (-) Parking Light output, both GREEN / WHITE but on different connectors.

Re - the brake wire and brain clicking.  Double check your ground connection.  On your car with a manual transmission, aside from the standard (+) Brake Pedal wire, you must connect the Parking ( Hand ) Brake wire.  This can be found in the White Plug on the right side of the steering column.  It should be a very Light Blue (-) wire.

Compustars will click when going into reservation mode...

yank the cluster out to get the ebrake wire. its VERY easy to get the trim off.

refer to these pictures.

As for Reservation Mode -  For safety reasons, after you set Reservation Mode and the remote start locks the doors and shuts off the engine, you can not re-enter the car prior to a remote start.  If you open any door, Reservation Mode is cancelled.  The remote start system can not guarantee that the cars shifter was not put into gear...

For door unlock, did you reseat / inspect the harness connection at the Brain?

Actually, Relay Pins 86 and 87 should be connected together and then the same wire continues on with the in-line fuse to +12v constant to supply the relay and trunk release power.