xpresskit or idatalink?

I'm looking to install a Python Responder One remote start in a 09 Nissan Rogue (it does not have push button start).  I've seen posts touting the following bypass kits, but i'm wondering which I should purchase: the xpresskit XK07-PKN3, or the iDataLink ADS-AL CA.

This will be my first remote start install, so i'm hoping to keep it as simple as possible.

Also, what's the difference between ADS-DLSL CA2 and ADS-AL CA, am I right that the CA2 is preloaded with the right software for my Rogue, where i would need to have the CA flashed?

The DEI XK07 would need to flashed with the PKN3 firmware using the XKLoader cable.

The iDatalink ADS AL CA would need to be flashed with the ADS AL(DL)-NI firmware using the ADS USB cable.  While the ADS DLSL CA2 can come pre-loaded with the ADS DLSL-NI firmware, it can also be flashed with many other vehicle specific firmwares so ensure you get the correct firmware on it.

I have seen ads for re-sellers that will flash any firmware on to the module after purchase and prior to shipment.

Another option you might not have explored is the Fortin CAN-SL2 bypass module.  It comes pre-loaded with the correct firmaware.  The Fortin EVO-ALL is another option but more expensive.  If you don't want to buy the DEI or iDatalink programming cables or can't find a place that will do it for you, the Fortin modules are the best choice.

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Soldering is fun!

As a first timer you should probably go Idata simply due to the great installation intructions they provide. Car specific, well laid out...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Great install instructions is a huge plus for me. 

What about the XK07's D2D port.  It looks like that should make hooking up to the Python remote start easier right? 

ADS module.   Very simple vehicle.   If it's a regular key, ....super simple. 

If it has the intellikey, you'll need to interrupt the intellikey module behind the mirror control.

And a relay at the IPDM under the hood.  Simple 4 wire relay hookup, assures no "funky cranking"

ADS module sounds like the way to go.

About the IPDM relay, is that needed if I have the standard key and not the intellikey?

Since we're on the topic of relays, are there any other relays, diodes or anything else outside of what comes in the starter and bypass kits that will be needed?

I purchased the ADS and had them flash it before shipping.

I'm reviewing all the connections that are needed, and noticed a wiring harness that came with the ADS-AL-CA that looks like a D2D to idatalink connector. Can that be used in place of a wire-to-wire hookup between the bypass and a Python Responder One remote start?

Yes!   But I'm not going to help troubleshoot any problems you have.

Theres what?  Like power, ground, ignition, and status wire connections, 4 wires?  

Save yourself some possible unpredictable problems and do it W2W.   I may get beatup over this comment, but I'm just trying to make the install easy for you, without some wierd problems.

X2      Take  Marks advice, go W2W.  

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Soldering is fun!

ok ok. W2W it is. :)

There are 6 wires actually.

- Ground, not a problem.
- Arm & disarm, connect to the arm & disarm on the remote start.

Now the questions begin.
- Trunk, It doens't have a trunk release, i'm guessing, just cap it?
- 12v, is this a constant 12v, or ignition? connect to output from remote start, or ignition switch?
- Ground (output when running), i have no clue on this one.

The ADS AL CA Red +12v wire goes to +12v constant at the remote start ( no need to go to the ignition switch ).

The ADS AL CA Blue/White (-) Output When Running goes to the Pythons' (-) Status Output ( aka GRW, Ground When Running ).

The 09 Rogue doesn't have a trunk release or the Python doesn't have a Trunk Release Output?

Here is an ADS AL CA in W2W mode for a 2011 Rogue w/Intelli-Key almost ready to install..........

                                                         

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Soldering is fun!

Don't forget the ADS  AL CA Pink Ignition wire.    Also the ADS AL CA outputs a nice Tach signal you can use instead of going under the hood or in Virtual / Voltage mode. 

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the advice guys. I've put together a cheat sheet of all connections.

If anyone could review it, I would appreciate it. I have a few outstanding questions (highlighted in yellow)

The Rogue has an ACC2 wire at the ignition switch harness.  Believe it or not, you will find two pink wires at the ignition switch. The ACC1 is Pink, same color but seperate wire from the cars Ignition1 wire, also Pink.  ACC2 is Brown.  Verify with DMM.  Is the Python Ignition 2 output selectable / programable to ACC2?  If it does, then program it to ACC2 and connect it to the Pink accessory wire.

The Neutral Safety wire should be connected to chassis ground for an automatic transmission vehicle.

With the ADS AL CA, the remote starts Lock and UnLock outputs do the locks and the arm / disarm function.  No need to connect both sets of signals to the bypass.

The bypass' Pink Ignition wire should go to the remote starts Ignition wire from the relay harness that goes to the Rogues Pink Ignition wire at the ignition switch.

Not familiar with the Python One unit and don't have an install guide, but there should be an output called (-) 200mA Status Output or (-) Ground While Running.  It is usually Blue or Blue/White on the Viper units.  That is the wire that goes to the bypass Blue/White Gound (-) Output When Running wire.

There are usually multiple +12v constant wires on the remote start unit.  Vipers are Red, RED / White, RED / Black.  All should be connected to a suitable +12v constant source.

Don't forget Page 2 of the ADS Type 10 Install intructions.  You will need a relay and wire it into the IPDM under the hood.  Use a DMM to verify the Neutral Safety wire.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks Kreg! This is very helpful.

Two points of clarification.

1. In the first paragraph you mention the ACC1 is Pink and ACC2 is Brown, but then you say connect the remote start ACC2 to Pink. Did you mix them up? Does it matter?

2. I've reviewed page 2 that shows the relay at the IPDM. My only experience with relays has been replacing them so I would always bring the dead one to the parts counter and ask for a new one. Where should I go to get one, and what type should I get?

The ACC wires don't matter for order.  Being as you had the Brown as ACC1, I listed Pink as ACC2, although the wires guides show it reversed.  Here is a crude drawing of the ignition connector :  

                                                  

A 30/40A SPDT relay is required.   Preferrably a quality and sealed one due to the engine compartment location.  Most better auto parts store should have them.  Also available on the internet.

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Soldering is fun!

I picked up a relay at Napa, and have my cheat sheet updated. I think I have everything ready to go.

Here it is: Cheat Sheet

Thanks for all the help.

criper wrote:

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ADS module sounds like the way to go.

About the IPDM relay, is that needed if I have the standard key and not the intellikey?

Since we're on the topic of relays, are there any other relays, diodes or anything else outside of what comes in the starter and bypass kits that will be needed?

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I was wondering about this as well and if anyone knows the answer.

I never had to do the relay at the IPDM on any Nissan with a standard key.

Mark Mizenko wrote:

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I never had to do the relay at the IPDM on any Nissan with a standard key.

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Since there is some differing opinions on this, does anyone know what the intended purpose of adding the relay is. Or what problems could happen if it was not installed?

I believe DEI  recommends it for 2009 and up.  Supposedly the starter will "chatter" after a remote start ( quickly engage & dis-engage ).  This is the note from the XK09  NISS2 firmware install guide:

For 2009-10 models, a relay must be added to prevent starter damage.
Refer to pages 4, 5 and 6 for the IPDM-E/R wiring of a specific vehicle.

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Soldering is fun!

Damaged Starter! Sounds like a very good reason to install it.