new rs in 04 toy tundra

Hello all:

I'm planning on buying a Viper 5901 for my 04 DC Tundra. I'm pretty handy, but have never installed a RS before. It looks like from my research there's no bypass needed. The door locks seem to be a little strange, needing some diodes and a relay installed. This is a little confusing for me still. I've also seen an interface, the TOYDL which sells for $60 or so that I think will take all the confusion away from the locks, but don't know if its really necessary or not. I guess I'm really wanting to know if all I really need for this vehicle is the 5901, a relay and a few diodes (or a TOYDL). How does this unit interface with the factory alarm? Since I haven't bought the unit yet, I don't know how clear the installation instructions are. Any guides or help from you all would be great. I'd like to order all that I'll need as soon as I know exactly what I need.

Thanks all in advance.

Welly

You are pretty much correct, just the 5901 and a solution for locks. No second starter so nothing needed there. The locks aren't that hard, i can do them in 15 minutes but you need to run 2 wires into the drivers door. It's up to you whether it's worth 60 bucks or not.

Very important, you must connect the keysense wire to the status output wire on this truck...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Thanks Mike. I've just received the 5901. I'm still doing my homework before I begin. So for the door locks, I need to run two wires into the door, correct? Since I'm wanting to be able to unlock all doors with a single button push, it looks like I have to run these wires into the passenger side door. I'm guessing the Door ECU is physically located inside the door, not the kick panel, which is why these connections need to be done inside the door and not the kick panel? Also, for the 1070 doc, I'll need 1 relay, and two 1A diodes? Is this all I need? I don't need to do this for each door correct?

Here is the Bulldog Security diagram for the 2004 Tundra double cab :  https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/extrainfo/diagrams/17044_TUNDRA-DOUBLE-CAB_TOYOTA%20and%20LEXUS%20door%20lock%20.pdf

Looks like 3 wires for their solution, lock, unlock and relay power.  Done in the passenger door, you can unlock all with a sngle pulse.  Done in the drivers door you need a double pulse to unlock all doors.

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Soldering is fun!

I have never gone to the passenger side for this, always the drivers door. You can get them all to unlock in the drivers door by simply programming the RS to 2 pulses. 2 wires is correct as you can get power from the door ECU(thick green wire on the drivers side if i remember right).

Also, the door ECU is the actual window switch, not a separate module...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

thanks kreg357 and Mike M2:

Mike, what do you mean by programming the RS to 2 pulses? Does this mean that I would still only have to hit the lock/unlock button once to unlock/lock all doors? I want it to be single pulse unlock, which from all the stuff I've read requires this to be done in the passenger door. If you're saying I can wire this in the drivers door and still have single pulse unlock via programming, I don't see why everyone doesn't do this. Sounds like you would have the option of single or progressive pulse unlock.

Program the Viper 5901 for double pulse door unlock.  Menu 1, Menu Item 6, Option 2.  When you press the Viper Unlock button once and get a double pulse output on the Blue Unlock wire.

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Soldering is fun!

so this setting does make it function as a single pulse unlock. why does all the info on the door lock wiring say that you must wire into the passenger side door for single pulse, if you could just do this setting via programming? Is this because not all systems have this functionality via programming? Just seems like wiring it in the drivers door is better since you can have either single or progressive unlocks.

You couldn't be more correct! The setting will pulse the locks 2 times in a second. First the drivers will unlock but a second later the others will too. This way if you decide you want progressive locks you can simply change the programming...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

think i got it. I still need to finish reading thru the manual and do some more planning. I don't have a lot of time to have this truck down, so I really need to do as much planning as possible. any other tips or supplies I'll be needing would help out too. I have never done one of these before. I was planning on soldering all connections, but since all of these connections are just wire taps, should I be using some sort of tap? any other things I'll either need or should note before I begin?

Solder everything.  Vibration, especially on a truck, can lead to bad connections with taps.  Use a quality electric tape, like Scotch Super 33+.  Buy a small bag of assorted heat shrink tube for use where possible.  Buy some tie wraps to keep things neat.  Use a Digital Multi Meter to verify wires.

Become very familiar with the Vipers install guide.  There are some wires you won't use.  There are programming options that will need to be changed.  Tach mode is the most reliable way to start the engine.

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Soldering is fun!

This is an easy truck compared to a lot. Other than the locks it's about as simple as it gets. I get lights and brake in the kick panel, door trigger at the ignition key cylinder(blue/black, covers all doors). Brain placement is tight, little room under the dash for a big truck. I usually go above the kick panel.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Wiretaps...wiretaps? Blasphemy! Remove this poster please moderators.
Joking aside, wiretaps will fail for the following reasons:- (and quite quickly).
Poor electrical joint, not enough contact area = high resistance = fail.
Can fall apart from vibrations.
Corrosion can enter.
Please, either connect via soldering and heat shrink tubing* and or soldering and Scotch 33+.
* Cut the wire to be joined to, strip 12cm (1/2") off each end.
Strip the joining wire 1/4" about 2" back, join one of the cut sides, solder letting the solder flow into the joint, nice and shiny.
Heat shrink the joint, place another heat shrink over the cut end, butt splice the two together solder and heat shrink.
Fiddly, but neat looking and it will last forever.




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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

all right I'm going to start this morning with the install. I had just a few questions that I'm hoping someone can clarify.

1. Hood Pin input- I wasn't able to find one on the truck. I have a wiring diagram that list a wire but I'm guessing this is a mistake. Any suggestion on where to install the supplied hood pin on this truck?

2. Dome Light Output- I have one wiring diagram that says "comes on with unlock", which I read as not used, and another that lists a Blu/BLK wire. Not sure which is correct for this truck.

3. Similar to previous, Factory Alarm disarm output-One guide says "disarms with unlock", which again I read as its not used. Yet the other diagram lists a BLU/RED wire. Not sure which is correct.

4. Lastly, (-)200mA 2ND UNLOCK OUTPUT- It doesn't appear that i need to hook anything up to this, but unsure. It states the wire produces output for progressive locks which my truck has. Since I want to have single pulse action, which as discussed earlier in this thread I going to do via programming, since I'm going into the drivers door for the locks. Does this wire have anything to do with doing this?

That's it, not as many questions as I thought I'd have. Sure is a lot of wires, and I think it will take quite a long time for someone who hasn't done it before, but looking forward to it.

Oh, does everybody typically mount the antenna on the windshield behind the rearview mirror? Is there no recommended location where it can be completely out of view? I mean it has 1 mile range, which I don't really need, so loosing some of that distance by mounting it somewhere out of view would be fine by me. What are some options for location?

Thanks for all the help and tips (very funny Howie II).

1) Any where the lid closed down on it breaking it's ground circuit without damaging it, also preferably high up and away from water paths, also spray it (and the siren) with a moisture retarder.
2) If your dome light has a fade but shuts down instantly the doors are locked, then comes on when the doors are unlocked before opening, you don't need this just go to the wire at the dome light which switches to neg when the door is opened. This is connected to your green door trigger wire.
3)?
4) Don't use it just set your unlock to double pulse.
See if you can mount the antenna in the top right corner where it's out of your line of sight. Another option, I do this on BMWs is to pop the gauge cluster, always easy on Japanese vehicles, and place the antenna there, if you have the combined antenna including LED and valet switch, go for the top position.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I'll add that on this truck the interior lights will come on when you unlock using the wires in the drivers door. Don't bother with it.

All you need to disarm is the unlock in the drivers door. The pulse will not only unlock but disarm too. You need it to disarm when you RS also and this is done by seeing a ground on the keysense wire when the ignition comes on. Make sure you connect the keysense to the status output of the RS and this will be fine.

I would connect the 2nd unlock wire to the blue unlock wire. Reason being, it won't make a difference now since you want it to unlock all and you are setting it to double pulse but if you ever want it to do prgressive locks it will be a simple matter of reprogramming. No wiring will be needed because you already did it. Connect the 1st 1nd 2nd blue unlocks together and there will be no issue later if you decide to change it.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Well the install took longer than I thought, but it went well. No problems and all of you guys who answered all my questions sure made it straight forward. Thanks again for the help!