Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2001 infiniti qx4 remote starter

I do apologize! I in fact took a document from MS Word. (Rich Text Document).

I'll start with the Ignition 1 on the Vehicle: will this be connected to the

h3/1 pink (+) ignition 1 input/output

h2/14 pink (-) 200mA ignition 1 output

The ACCESSORY /HEATER blower 1 and accessory heater blower 2 from the vehicle: which one should i connect these to?

h3/3 orange (+) accessory output

h2/12 orange (-) 200mA accessory output

Thanks in advance.

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Pete

Some of the wires on the H3 connector will supply the standard (+) ignition wires on your car. Some of the H2 outputs are (-) 200mA and are there to control relays for addition circuits as needed. H3/2, H3/6 and H3/9 all go to a suitable +12v constant source.

Basically, compare the wire guide list with what you actually find in the car and verify with a Digital Multi Meter. The cars Ignition 1 circuit is listed as BLACK/ White (+) and would be connected to the Vipers' H3/1 Pink wire after you verify it with the DMM. Bulldog suggests that your car has two Starter wires and two Accessory wires. The Flex relay can be programmed for Starter 2 and H3/7 would be connected to the cars Starter2 wire. The second accessory would be created using the H2/12 (-) 200mA Accessory Output and a fused relay.

There are a lot of wires to connect for a successfull install..........

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357, thank-you very much for your reply and input. I have some more questions.....

It Bulldog states that I must connect BOTH Starter1 & Starter2 wires to get enough cranking power. Would I connect both to the h3/7 (+) ignition2 / Flex Relay Output? Also, how do I program the flex relay? With there being 2 Accessory Wires would the accessory 1 from the vehicle be connected to the h3/3 (+) accessory output? Should I use a 12vdc single pole double throw relay for both accessory connections?

With the parking light red (-) & parking light blue/black (+) on the vehicle; would they be connected to the h1/4 parking light isolation wire (pin 87a of onboard relay) and the h1/11 parking light output of the alarm harness?

I know that with the Power Lock yellow (TypeB) and the Power Unlock light green (TypeB) from the vehicle, it goes to Door Lock 3-Pin connector. My question is: what does (Type B) mean? and with the unlock it states that it requires a Double Pulse.....How would I achieve this?

With Door Trigger from the vehicle: Driver Door GREEN/ red (-), Front Passenger Door yellow (-), Rear Door RED / blue (-), it says to use all three. Would I connect all three wires to the h1/6 Door Trigger Input (+) on the Main harness with one diode?

With the Domelight Supervision, it states to connect it to the Door Trigger with a #775 Relay?? is this correct? would it be connected to the the driver door wires mentioned above along with the diode then to the relay?

I really appreciate your time, consideration and patience with this!

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Pete

If you are serious in doing this install yourself, you should download the install guide from this site for your remote starter system. Become very familiar with it. The Viper 5902 is a sophisticated system and there is a lot to know, understand and do. The Flex relay programming is shown in the Install Guide.

Next go to the AudioVox site and get their wiring guide. https://techservices.audiovox.com/Login.aspx Sign-up is free, Compare that to Bulldogs' and then to the actual vehicle. These are only guides and all wires should be verified with a Digital Multi Meter. A wiring mistake can have major consequences. ( Smoking a computer is expensive. )

This site has info on Door Locks, Relays and Diodes ( more reading and learning ). Type B door locks are basic (-) locks that can be directly connected to the Viper. The Viper has a programming option for Double Unlock Pulse.

Chose only one wire to activate the Parking Lights. The Viper can do either (-) or (+) so pick the cars wire that is easier to locate and connect to.

Domelight supervision is probably not necessary if your dome light comes on with an UnLock from the factory remote. Bulldog Part #775 is just a 30/40A SPDT relay. They suggest it because their units output is the wrong polarity or can't supply the current draw.

The cars (-) door triggers would be connected to the Vipers' (-) Door Trigger Input. All 3 or 4 door triggers would be connected to this wire, and each door trigger connection would need a diode (3 or 4 diodes - 1N4001 ).

H3/3 can go to ACC1. The ACC2 wire would need a 30/40A SPDT relay to supply it. Relay control would come from H2/12.

You will need a Digital Multi Meter, soldering gun, solder, electric tape, heat shrink tube, relay(s), fuse holder(s), automotive hand tools, diodes, etc to accomplish the install. Also, your vehicle should have a transponder type ignition immobilizer. Have you purchased a bypass module? Something like the DEI PKALL should work. https://www.xpresskit.com/VehicleCompatibility.aspx?p=-1&year=2001&make=Infiniti&model=QX4&ps=1&s=0

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357, again I must thank-you for all your input thus far....I have done all the reading as you stated and more. I am feeling confident and positive so far with the instalation information. (Thanks to you!)

I do have an PKALL from Xpresskit. I also have some additional features which I have purchased. I have an 530T Window Automation System. I plan to connect this H2/3 (-) Auxillary Input to the H2/6 (-) 200mA Aux 1 Output of the Viper Alarm. Do you think that I would need to connect the "(-) Output During Activation" ? If it is required it says to use a P/N 610T Relay.

520T Backup Battery. Hookup blue (-) trigger output to the H1/7 (-) Trunk pin/Instant Trigger Input of the Viper harness

507M Tilt Sensor. Orange (-) Turn-on Input to the H1/12 (-) 500mA Ground when armed output of the Viper harness. Blue (-) Trigger Output to the H1/7 (-) Trunk pin/Instant Trigger Input of the Viper harness.

Viper SmartStart Module VSM100. Hook-up to the Bitwriter Port of the Viper unit.

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Pete

Sounds like the Deluxe system. posted_image Research and knowledge is the key. A lot of the information can be found in prior posts if you search on the right key words.

Good luck!

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357, thank-you once again for your support! I will keep you posted as to my work-in-progress. I am sure that I will have some more questions for you.

Actually, one more......In your opinion, would you cut the wires than solder, or just splice them and solder? (I was thinking of cutting them then soldering to make all connections have heat shrink tubing)....

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Pete

IMHO...

Heat shrink tubing makes for a nice neat insulation job but a quality electric tape, like Scotch Super 33+, properly applied works well. You can even go so far as adding a tie wrap to secure the end of the tape and the 2 wires together. While it is sometimes difficult, I don' t cut the wires. ( Any junction is a possible problem. Additionally, you lose some flexibility. ) Practice carefully removing a section of the insulation without cutting any strands. Then, depending on the wire gagues being connected, you can "thread the needle" or tightly wrap and then solder and insulate.

There have been a few debates on this subject already. For high currect draw and delicate data type circuits, you can't beat a good solder connection.

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Soldering is fun!

Hello,

Its been a while since my last post. Unfortunately, I have had family emergencies preventing me from installing my remote system I am back on it now.

I have a question in regards to the Xpresskit Pkall unit I am installing.

https://www.xpresskit.com/VehicleCompatibility.aspx?p=-1&year=2001&make=Infiniti&model=QX4&ps=1&s=0

(click on pkall install guide)

There are 4 wires in one of the harnesses.

Light Green --------------------Relay 1a ----------------------To Vehicle Ignition

ORANGE / Brown ----------------Relay 1b ----------------------To Vehicle Ignition

ORANGE / Green ----------------Relay 2a ----------------------To Vehicle Security LED

Brown --------------------------Relay 2b -----------------------To Vehicle Security LED

I am confused as to if I am to put a relay in between these lines?? or is this taken care of within the unit? According to the diagram I am to cut the ignition wire to connect the pkall unit. From the main harness on the pkall unit, would I connect the pink (ignition) wire to the Light Green wire or the ORANGE / Brown? Also, which wire would the H3/1 Pink ignition wire from the Viper Alarm be connected to?

Thanks again, for any input.

Pete.

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Pete

The "Relay" is in the PKALL module. No extra parts required.

The PKALL Pink ignition wire should go the the same place as the Vipers H3/1 Ignition wire. Should be a BLACK/ White wire at the QX4 ignition switch harness.

The PKALLs' ORANGE / Brown and Light Green wire connected to the cut WHITE/ Black wire at the immobilizer connector. The ORANGE / Green and Brown wires go to the cut Brown wire at the immobilizer connector. The PKALLs' PURPLE / White Data wire goes to the PURPLE / Red wire at the immobilizer connector.

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Soldering is fun!

Kreg357,

Thank-you once again for your help! In regards to the Ignition wire coming from the Viper Unit, does it matter which side it gets connected to?

i mean, since the Ignition wire needs to be cut - One side to the Pkall Light Green and the other side to the Pkall Orange Brown. Which side would the Viper Ignition wire (pink H3/1) be connected too?

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Pete

I haven't done the 2001 QX4 but going by the wiring lists available and the bypass guides, it looks like two different "ignition" wires.

The Vipers heavy gauge H3/1 should go to a BLACK/ White wire in the ignition switch harness, probably heavy gauge also. The PKALLs' Pink ignition wire can be connected to the Vipers H3/1 wire anywhere convenient. This will be the QX4s' official primary Ignition wire.

Then there are the PKALL wires going to the immobilizer connector. Your QX4 will probably be the 8 Pin type shown in the PKALL Install Guide. The ignition wire there is WHITE/ Black and probably a thin gauge wire.

Of course it is best to open up the steering column and locate and verify all wires with a Digital Multi Meter.

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Soldering is fun!

Hello Kreg357,

(Long process as I cannot spend large amounts of time due to my time constraints!) My question today is in regards to the accessory wires first.

With Accessory Wire 2 from the QX4 (RED / yellow) it would require a relay. Would this hook up be right?:

30 - 2nd Accessory (RED / Yellow) from QX4

87 - +12 volts (fused)

86 - +12 volts (fused)

85 - H2/12 Orange (-) 200mA Accessory Output

87a - N/A

Also, would the 530T Window System also need relays? According to the manual it states to use the Orange H2/4 of the 530T to the (-) Ground when armed of the alarm and the RED / White H2/3 of the 530T to the (-) Aux Output Of Alarm........

Thanks once again for your input and consideration!

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Pete

The wiring for the ACC2 relay is correct.

No relays needed for those two signals from the alarm to the 530T, just wire directly.

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Soldering is fun!

Hello Again!

Question on the 1st Starter wire on the QX4 (BLACK / YELLOW) on the ignition harness. Would this wire be connected to the Remote Start (H3) 10 Pin Connector - H3/4 (violet) (+) Starter Output on the Viper? or the H2 Harness 18-pin connector - H2/13 (purple) (-) 200mA Starter Output on the Viper? What is the difference between the two?

Thanks in advance for your input......

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Pete

Hi,

Sorry, I forgot to ask if this (Starter 1) would require a relay.....

Thanks for your input.....

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Pete

The cars' Starter1 goes to the H3/4 violet wire ( no relay needed ). The H2/13 (purple) (-) 200mA Starter Output would typically be used to control a relay if the car needed another (+) Starter output.

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Soldering is fun!

Hello Kreg357

I guess now my problems have started

1: Siren doesn't seem to come on.....I've got the red posittive from the siren to H1/3 (Brown) (+) Siren Output on the Viper. Black from siren to Ground

2. When I try to start the vehicle to initialize the Tach it does not start. What I do notice is that the fuel light comes on and the Gas needle does not move from empty. The vehicle cranks but does not start. ( I know that there is at least half a tank) I've got the H2/9 (violet/white) Tachometer input wire from the Viper going to the (WHITE/ green) tachometer wire at pin 25 of the ECM of the QX4.

I have programmed the Pkall Unit. Everything went well with that.

Thank you very much in advance for your input.

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Pete

More questions.....

My glass window hatch, which I am using as my "Trunk Release". Pin 38 on the QX4 SECU is the Glass Hatch I have this wire connected to the H1/1 (-) 200mA Trunk Release Output on the viper. Is this correct or should I have this connected to the H1/7 Blue (-) Trunk Pin/Instant Trigger Input (N/C or N/O) on the viper? I ask this because the glass release button on the driver door does not work.

Thankyou once again.

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Pete

Does the car start with the key?

Did you test the Hatch Glass Release to see what type of signal it requires? AudioVox lists a Trunk Release (+) at the Hatch Release Switch. The Viper Trunk Release at H1/1 is a (-) signal and would require a relay to convert to a (+).

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Soldering is fun!

Hello Kreg357,

Thanks for the reply. I will test the Hatch Glass release. Is there a special way to hook up the relay to convert it to (+)?

The car is NOT starting with the key.....It just keeps on cranking.....What can I try? Question.....Is the PKall LED supposed to be lit up? If so it is not....WHen I went throught the programming sequence the LED flashed accordingly. It seems to be programmed correct.....

Thanks again...

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Pete

Did you cut any of the cars' ignition wires when you connected the remote starter?

Double check the PKALL wires going to the cut ignition wire. (Relay 1a and 1b)

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Soldering is fun!

Hello Kreg357

I was trying to send you a visual, but its not letting me upload to the site. This is what I have checked this far: The connector at the Ignition Barrel is an 8-pin Connector.

Pin 1 - 12V Battery

Pin 2 - Ignition (WHITE/ black) - This wire is cut. The ORANGE / brown wire from the PKALL unit is soldered to the "ignition barrel" side of the connector. The light/green wire from the PKALL unit is soldered to the "vehicle side" of the WHITE/ black wire.

Pin 3 - N/A

Pin 4 - Security LED (brown) - This wire is cut. The brown wire from the PKALL unit is soldered to the "ignition Barrel" side of the connector. The ORANGE / green wire from the PKALL unit is soldered to the "vehicle side" of the brown wire.

Pin 5 - Gnd

Pin 6 / 7 - N/A

Pin 8 - Data - The data wire from the connector (pink/red) is connected to the PURPLE / white (Data) wire from the PKALL.

I have the (-) While Running (blue/white) wire from the PKALL connected to H2/10 dark blue (-) 200mA Status Output on the Viper. I have also got the Pink Ignition wire from the PKALL connected to the "Vehicle Side" of the WHITE/ black ignition wire at the Ignition Barrell connector. (This and the light green relay 1a wire from the PKALL are connected together). Would this pose a problem?

Thanks.

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Pete

The PKALL connections look OK with the exception of the Pink wire. I think I would connect that to the H3/1 Pink wire that goes to the cars BLACK/ White Ignition wire. How are the H3 wires connected to the car?

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Soldering is fun!

Hi Kreg357,

Thank-you. The Ignition Harness at the vehicle is wired as follows along with the (H3) 10 pin connector:

H3/1 (pink) (+) Ignition 1 Input/Output - QX4 pin 3 (+) (BLACK/ white) Ignition @ Ignition Harness

H3/2 (RED / white) (+) Fused 30A Ignition2/Flex Relay Input 87 - QX4 pin 1 (+) (WHITE/ green) 12V@ Ignition Harness

H3/3 (orange) (+) Accessory Output - QX4 pin 5 (+) (WHITE/ blue) Accessory @ Ignition Harness

H3/4 (violet) (+) Starter Output (car side of starter kill) - QX4 pin 2 (+) (BLACK / YELLOW) Starter @ Ignition Harness

H3/5 (green) (+) Starter Input (keyside of starter kill) - NOT CONNECTED

H3/6 (red) (+) Fused 30A Ignition 1 Input - QX4 pin 1 (+) (WHITE/ green) 12V@ Ignition Harness

H3/7 (pink/white) (+) Ignition 2/Flex relay output - QX4 pin 4 (+) (RED / black) Second Starter @ Ignition Harness

H3/8 (pink/black) (+) Flex Relay Input 87A key side (if req'd) of flex relay - NOT CONNECTED

H3/9 (RED / black) (+) Fused 30A Accessory/Starter Input - QX4 pin 1 (+) (WHITE/ green) 12V@ Ignition Harness

H3/10 N/C - No Connection

QX4 pin 6 (+) (RED / yellow) 2nd Accessory is connected to Relay pin 30

Relay pin 87 & Relay pin 86 is fused and also connected to - QX4 pin 1 (+) (WHITE/ green) 12V@ Ignition Harness

85 - H2/12 Orange (-) 200mA Accessory Output

87a - N/A

The Relay I am using is an Absolute RLS120

12V DC Auto Relay

Single Pole Double Throw

I think that takes care of the Ignition Harness connection and the H3 Remote Start Connection which I have. Let me know if anything looks out of the ordinary. Thank-you for your patience.

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Pete

That looks good, too. Did you change Menu 3, Menu Item 8 to Option 3?

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Soldering is fun!

Hi Kreg357,

Interesting question! I have not. But I'll tell you why and what may be my dilemna. I am now looking at the Pkall Unit instructions. Off to the top right of the page it has a little box that indicates: LED Module Diagnostics:

On: Activated, Off: Not Activated, Flash: Not Programmed

i have tried programming it a second time. It does everything that the instructions state however, the LED does NOT stay on. Is it supposed to?

With that being said I have tried to Program the Viper.

1. Open the door. 2. Turn the Ignition on then off. 3. Press & Hold the Control Button. (The number of siren chirps indicates the menu number) as it states.....I am not getting anything, no light on the Viper Control Center and no siren chirps.

I am though able to lock and unlock the doors with the HD remote and the status LED on the control Center flashes. I am not sure at this point as to why I cannot program the Viper Unit.

Your help is very much appreciated.

Thanks.

Pete.

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Pete

The ACC2 setting shouldn't be a major issue right now. The fact that the car won't start with the key is. Any fuses blown? At this point I would pull the connectors off the PKALL and jumper the two cut wires together with two jumpers to see if the car will start with the key with the PKALL out of the circuit.

Might be a silly question, but did you connect H1/2 to +12v constant? Beyond that we might need one of the Viper experts to jump in with some insight.

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Soldering is fun!

Hi Kreg357,

I have the H1/2 (red) connected to the QX4 pin 1 (+) (WHITE/ green) 12V@ Ignition Harness. WOuld that be ok?

I am trying now with the PKALL Unit out of the circuit.......

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Pete

Hi Kreg357,

I have now taken the PKall Unit out of the loop. Believe it or not I am still getting the no start with the key. The vehicle is doing the same thing, just trying to start, keeps cranking.........

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Pete

Did you jumoer both of the cut wires at the immobilizer? Did you check all the fuses in the cars fuse box(s)?

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Soldering is fun!

Hi Kreg357,

I have put jumper wires as if the ignition wire at the (Ignition Barrel) was not cut. I have also checked all the fuses and everything seems to be ok.

When I put the key into the ignition on turn it to the on position (just before the start) all the dash lights seem to come on as usual, but I do realize that after about 3sec. the fuel light comes on???? This never happened before. its almost like the truck is not getting any gas. Any ideas as to what may cause this??

Also, the door chime does not come on either.

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Pete

Kreg357,

You won't believe it, but I got the Truck started!!!! (Definate Rookie MISTAKE). When I was searching for the window wires in the kick panel, I had loosened a screw to free a plastic housing that was holding a bunch of wires. Not realizing that it also held the connector in place. I did not tighten it enough. Nonetheless, it was the source of all the issues I had asked you about. Chime, Car starting, rear hatch opening!

Now back to basics......:)

So far I have "Learned the Tach"

In Menu 3:

Menu Item 1 is set to Opt.2 (Automatic)

Menu Item 2 is set to Opt.4 (Tachometer)

Menu Item 8 is set to Opt.3 (Starter 2)

With these changes, the vehicle does not start. On the HD remote it is telling me to "Toggle Switch Off". I did, but I still get that message....

Thanks once again for all your patience!!!

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Pete

Did you plug in the Neutral Safety? Did you togle it to the other position? Make sure the hood is closed. Getting close...

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Soldering is fun!

Hello Kreg357,

I have plugged in the Neutral Safety Switch and tried toggling the switch positions.....still the same message..... Am I correct with the switch pin that I installed under the hood being at H2/15 grey (-) Hood Pin Input (N/C or N/O)? DO I need to connect the H2/18 BLACK/ white (-) Nuetral Safety Input wire to ground?

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Pete

The Hood pin is correct. If it sees a ground (-) it will not allow a remote start or it will shut down the engine if the hood is raised during a remote start.

Absolutely. There is your next problem / resolution. For cars with automatic transmissions, Viper recommends that the Neutral Safety wire be run to chasis ground. Here is a excerpt from the install guide:

BLACK/ WHITE Neutral safety switch input
Connect this wire to a ground source if installing this unit in an automatic transmission
vehicle. If this unit is being installed in a manual transmission vehicle
then connect it to the emergency brake wire. This input MUST rest at ground in
order for the remote start system to operate.
Important! Always perform the steps outlined in Safety Check section to verify
that the vehicle cannot be started in ANY drive gear and that the override switch
is functioning properly.

Did you re-connect the PKALL and remove the jumpers? There should be no need to reprogram it.

Getting closer...

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Soldering is fun!

Hello Kreg357,

Great literature. It is definately useful, and the final wire for the remote start! It WORKS!! Something basic......

The only thing that I am working on is getting the "Glass Hatch" to open with the aux button on the remote. This wire is at the SECU unit (-) pin 38 blue/white. I have it connected to the H1/1 RED / white (-) 200mA Trunk Release Output on the Viper. Any ideas as to what I may be doing wrong?

Kreg357, I want to thank you in advance once again for all your patience and help. Your expert knowledge, and guidance have enabled me to become much more confident in my learning curve for Alarm/Remote Starters! You are a DEFINATE asset to this website! I will be working on a 2006 Honda Civic. Hopefully, I will have the opportunity to share your knowledge once again!

Thank-You.

Pete.

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Pete

Have you used the DMM to verify that this SECU Blue/White wire does indeed see a (-) when the hatch glass release is pressed? If that tests OK, then you could try taking a jumper wire to chassis ground and momentarily touching the SECU wire to verify that the glass opens. Additionally you can verify that the Viper remote button is causing the Vipers' AUX wire to output a (-) when pressed.

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Soldering is fun!

Hi Kreg357,

I have run the DMM across that wire and I see nothing. The blue/white wire at SECU pin 38 on the QX4 is correct. I verified this with the vehicle electrical diagram. I am missing something here I think. The switch to open the glass hatch though does work, and opens the hatch??

Another question,

When the system is armed everything works fine, doors lock and the window goes up. The H2/3 RED / white wire from the 530T Window module is connected to the H2/4 violet black (-) 200mA Aux 2 Output on the Viper. When I press the Aux 2 button on the HD remote the window goes down.....How do I get it to go up using the HD remote?

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Pete

Hello,

I forgot to mention, I also tried jumping that wire at the SECU unit to ground to see if it would open the glass hatch. I still don't get any signal. (Wanting to believe that this isn't the right wire??) unless I am doing something wrong....

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Pete

It would appear that the glass release is the wrong wire. None of the sources I have available show that wire ( I don't have the Infinity manual. ). Only AudioVox shows a Trunk Release : Trunk Release = LIGHT GREEN/ RED (+) REAR HATCH SWITCH. It is a (+) signal so the Vipers' Trunk Release output would require a relay to convert the signal to (+). As a side note, always use your DMM to locate and verify wires and only use the "jumper method" to test after verifing with the DMM.

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Soldering is fun!

Hi Kreg357,

Thanks for the tip and advice. Just a quick relay verification:

87 - +12V Output (Trunk Release)

85 - (-) Trigger (Viper H1/1 RED / White)

30, 86 - +12V Fused

87a - N/A

Also, any advice on my window dilemna? (rolling it up with the HD remote?) goes down on Aux2.....

Thanks in advance.....

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Pete