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viper 5901 in ford flex

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=123923
Printed Date: May 23, 2024 at 3:37 AM


Topic: viper 5901 in ford flex

Posted By: spyderman_maryj
Subject: viper 5901 in ford flex
Date Posted: October 13, 2010 at 9:31 PM

Hey everyone.  I need some expert help!  We recently had a Viper 5901 RS/Alarm installed in our 2009 Ford Flex at a local shop.  Now I am having a number of problems.  We had it back once to "finish" the install but I am still having a number of problems.. 

1) We had "passive arming" activated, but the system will still arm when the key is turned to the first (ACC) position..  I have to turn the key all the way to RUN to disable the auto arming.  Is this correct?  Any previous systems would not arm in the ACC position.

2) Does the Viper have an output to connect to the Flex's factory alarm?  I have a print off labeled "2009 Ford Flex... DirectWire 2.0 Vehicle Information" Which shows a wire for both Factory alarm arm and Factory alarm disarm.  Should there be a connection to the Viper?  The reason I ask is before the Viper system when I would disarm (unlock) the car with the IKT the interior lights would come on.  Now when I Disarm the Viper they do not.. Also when my wife was Vacuuming the car recently she had the drivers door open, then she closed it and went to the passenger side and opened the door the factory horn honk went off..  Again Passive arming is active so I understand that it will automatically arm, but it was only a matter of a few seconds and it was the Horn and not the siren

3) Is there any reason why you cannot connect the Viper hood pin input to the Flex's factory hood pin?  I was a little disappointed that they drilled a new hole in the fender to install the provided hood pin when there is already a hood pin..  I'm sure the newly installed pin will be fine (for awhile till it rusts..) but I even provided them the DirectWire sheet so that really bothers me..  Do you think this is worth having them connect correctly?

4) I asked them connect the heated seats to an AUX output of the Viper. The first time they told me it was a ribbon data cable and so they could not do it.  When I showed them DirectWire sheet showing the wire(s) in the passenger kick panel, they connected both driver and passenger seat to AUX 1 of the Viper (press function then press AUX.)  Now here are the problem(s).. first when I turn on the seats by remote (press function + press AUX) the remote says LATCH.  Is this correct?  Does that mean it is a latched output?  Also the dash light does not light.  Not a big deal, but I do not know if they are on or not.  The bigger problem is that now when I use the dash switch to manually activate the seats the drivers OR passengers will work independentIy, but once you turn them on together they seem to cancel the other out (ie. If I turn on the drivers seat it will cycle thru High-Medium-Off, but if either seat is on High or Medium and you push the button for the other seat it will flash both quickly and turn both to off.)  I spoke to the install bay and they said the two seats may need to be Diode isolated.  Does that make sense? 

We have the car going back in to be fixed next week, but I wanted some expert advice first so I know what to expect when I get the car back.  I have had alarms and starters installed in almost all my cars in the past and have never had problems like this before.

Thanks in advance!

Ryan




Replies:

Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: October 14, 2010 at 7:07 PM

The passive arming sequence will only be cancelled when u turn to the run and not the accc position.

Yes there should be a connection from the viper to the vehicle'e arm and disarm wire

There isn't any reason i can think of why they cannot connect the hood switch trigger to the original one, the unit can be programmed to open or closed circuits, unless it's data, it beats me.

Not to knowledgeable on the seat issue, hopefully someone will chime in here.





Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 16, 2010 at 12:17 PM
On the seat heating issue, ask if they used one relay for both seats? They should have used two. The warning lights will not come on because they are triggered by the input stages as controlled by the heater controls. Yes they are probably right about the diodes. With a data switch, I wonder if anything from DEI, e.g. canmax could control them more effectively.
Don't come down too hard on the install shop, this is cutting edge work.
T&t is spot on with his other comments though. Are they a DEI dealer? i.e. can they get tech back-up from DEI?

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: spyderman_maryj
Date Posted: October 16, 2010 at 9:11 PM

Thanks guys..  So I guess then when ever I get gas or unload groceries I have to leave the key in the RUN position with the dash lights and DRL's on?.. Maybe I will have them turn this off because I don't like that.  All my previous alarms would cancel with the ACC position. 

I thought there should be a connection between the Viper and the factory system since the dome lights and headlights no longer turn on after disarming.  Also I noticed that because the dome light stays on after you close the door, if I manually arm the system it comes back "DOOR OPEN" and by-passes the zone (doors). 

The hood thing is mostly a personal wiz-off!  Even after I provided them a DirectWire printout they ran a new wire and drilled the fender for a new pin only about three inches from the factory one.  I think I will request that they correct this.

As for the seats.. I hope they can figure it out.  I noticed today that when I turn on the drivers (only) seat to high both seats will come on, if I turn on both seats they both go to low (but BOTH show high).  I beleive they are A DEI dealer.  It is an electronics shop that sell many lines of alarm and starter systems so I will ask them to possibly contact DEI for some tech support.

Thanks again guys!!

Ryan





Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 16, 2010 at 11:52 PM
If this were an alarm rather than a R/S you could use the ACC rather than IGN as the ignition stand-off.
T&t is more familiar with these than me, I wonder if they still have the yellow ignition input wire and if that can still be connected to ACC, if so it might cure the problem.


-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.





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