05 camry remote starter

Hi all,

I'm installing a remote starter for my 05 camry, try to be ready for the coming winter.  I'm using Prestege APS687N remote starter and my questions are

1/ The car had 1st starter and 2nd starter wires whereas the remote module only had only 1 starter output wire,  do I need to use a diode to connect to a 2nd wire starter ?

2/ I'd like the 2 side marker lights on like the parking light during lock, unlock or remote starter but the wiring diagram does not show which wire for the sie marker lights.

3/ My car came with a remote door lock and unlock where it has a buzzer when remote unlock or unlock, which wire is for the factory buzzer ?

4/ The wiring diagram showed a "BLACK" wire on the BECU for a hood pin but did not say which connector or which position is the "BLACK" wire and the BECU had lots of black wire so I don't know which is which and the reason I'd to use this wire is for convenience purpose where I don't have to run another wire through the call wall for a hood pin.

Thank you in advance for any inputs.

1/ The car had 1st starter and 2nd starter wires whereas the remote module only had only 1 starter output wire,  do I need to use a diode to connect to a 2nd wire starter ?

no diode, use a relay and the secondary start output from the unit to create a second start wire.

2/ I'd like the 2 side marker lights on like the parking light during lock, unlock or remote starter but the wiring diagram does not show which wire for the sie marker lights.

side marker lights should be wired into your parking lights already.

3/ My car came with a remote door lock and unlock where it has a buzzer when remote unlock or unlock, which wire is for the factory buzzer ?

you wont be able to get that buzzing sound unless you add a piezo buzzer. you can only activate the factory horn.

4/ The wiring diagram showed a "BLACK" wire on the BECU for a hood pin but did not say which connector or which position is the "BLACK" wire and the BECU had lots of black wire so I don't know which is which and the reason I'd to use this wire is for convenience purpose where I don't have to run another wire through the call wall for a hood pin.

hood pin - BLACK (-) in gray plug, right side of steering collumn. its 2 slots right of the tach wire which is BROWN (ac)

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

As a further comment to Tedmund's excellent reply.
First, if you used a diode you would need one with 20amps power handling. Second you would still burn out the starter circuitry on your remote start, third the manufacturer of the car provides two starter wires for good reason, related to fuel pump priming and bad weather.
A relay is the only answer.
Locating the right black wire..ever heard of testing?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

tedmond wrote:

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1/ The car had 1st starter and 2nd starter wires whereas the remote module only had only 1 starter output wire,  do I need to use a diode to connect to a 2nd wire starter ?

no diode, use a relay and the secondary start output from the unit to create a second start wire.

2/ I'd like the 2 side marker lights on like the parking light during lock, unlock or remote starter but the wiring diagram does not show which wire for the sie marker lights.

side marker lights should be wired into your parking lights already.

3/ My car came with a remote door lock and unlock where it has a buzzer when remote unlock or unlock, which wire is for the factory buzzer ?

you wont be able to get that buzzing sound unless you add a piezo buzzer. you can only activate the factory horn.

4/ The wiring diagram showed a "BLACK" wire on the BECU for a hood pin but did not say which connector or which position is the "BLACK" wire and the BECU had lots of black wire so I don't know which is which and the reason I'd to use this wire is for convenience purpose where I don't have to run another wire through the call wall for a hood pin.

hood pin - BLACK (-) in gray plug, right side of steering collumn. its 2 slots right of the tach wire which is BROWN (ac)

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Thank you for all inputs,

Let me clarify the answer from the 1st question

since the remote starter module only had 1 starter output so I'll use a relay to create a 2nd starter output and use the 1st starter output from the module to control the relay ?

While there is a way to accomplish this with one relay, the more common method requires two relays, each fused at 20 amps.  Here is a link to an install guide for a basic remote starter that has a nice diagram on Page 20 of the relay setup :  https://www.readyremote.com/pdf/manuals/24921.pdf

Relays are 30/40 Amp SPDT with pre-wired sockets.

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Soldering is fun!

""Let me clarify the answer from the 1st question

since the remote starter module only had 1 starter output so I'll use a relay to create a 2nd starter output and use the 1st starter output from the module to control the relay ? ""

This will work fine and is the way most do it. Your RS should have a small 4 pin plug with a BLACK / YELLOW wire for starter negative. Use this to drive the relay....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

And following on from Mike, standard Bosch type relay, available from all autopart stores or Radio Shack etc.
It will have 4 0r 5 terminals (standard 1/4" = 6mm faston terminals) marked
85,
86,
97,
30.
The 5th is marked 87a. It doesn't matter if you use a 4 pin or a 5 pin, wire as follows.
Method 1 Yellow/black as explained by Mike 85
Constant 12v+ supply to 86 and 87, fused at 30amps.
30 to second starter.
87a not used.

Method 2
Spur off original starter 1 wire to 86
Neg (ground) to 85
87 fused at 30amps constant 12v+.
30 to second starter.
87a not used.
A diode 1N4004 is advisable, join (pref solder) across the 85 and 86 contacts with its band facing 86. More desirable in method 1 to protect your R/S from back feed.




-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Kreg, I don't know why you need 2 relays, I got bored and just measured the draw on coil engagement on a Bosch SPCO automotive relay from a stabilised power supply.
At 12volts it draws 130 milliamps and 150 milliamps at 13.8.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

1. The APS687N does indeed have two starter outputs. Read the install guide in regards to the RED / black and pink wires. The pink defaults as an ignition wire...you have to change it to starter in the programming menu.

2. What do you mean by side marker lights?

When you connect to the car's parking light circuit, the front, rear, and sides of the car will light up just as if you switched on the parking lights on the dashboard.

Also, if you want, you can also connect the APS687's BLACK/ blue (pulse before start) and BLACK/ green (pulse after start) wires to the Toyota's light GREEN/ black hazard-light wire at the flasher in the driver's kick panel.

That will flash the hazards for you on unlock, lock, and remote start.

3. I've tried to find that factory buzzer before under the hood with no luck. Maybe if you went to the parts department at a Toyota dealer they might print up a diagram with the location.

4. Which model Camry do you have? Only the XLE model (with factory alarm) has a factory hoodswitch.

If you do have a factory hoodswitch, you can't just connect the APS687's wire straight into it---it rests at a slight ground and the remote start won't work.

You'll need to cut the factory wire in half, connect a diode inline, and connect the APS687's hoodpin wire to the "switch" side of the diode.

Interestingly enough Chris that comment about diode separation from the factory hood switch rang some bells, about 10+ years ago, I seem to remember being told to diode separate from all factory switches.
Jaguar came to mind, I think because back then the factory pin switch operated a hood light that was on the parking light circuit.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Kreg has pointed out to me that my method 2 above is incorrect; the line 85 to ground should read 85 to GWR (status output) via a 1N4004 diode with the band away from the relay.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.