complete but remote not working

I just finished installing a Python Responder One in a 09 Nissan Rouge.  For the bypass, i'm using a ADS-AL CA.

The install went well, and the ADS module seemed to take the programming steps as documented.

The problem is that I am getting no response from the transmitter.  When I click the button, a very feint red led blinks once.  No response from the brain.  It appears that it is not communicating with the brain.  I double checked the attenna connections, everything seems fine.  I also tried to re-sync the transmitter, but again, during the step where i'm suppose to press the transmitter, the brain doesn't seem to reconize it, and the programing is exited.

Any help is appreciated.

Not familiar with the Python unit.  Is there only one remote transmitter FOB?  If there are two, are both doing the same thing?  If there is only one FOB, have you tried new battery(s)?

I do have two.  They both do the same thing.  I didn't actually try new batteries, but i checked their voltage.  They are fine.

The install guide says they come programmed.  But since they weren't working I have been trying to reprogram (re-sync) them.  Step 3 is press the transmitter, but their is no response and the brain doesn't seem to learn the remote.  I've tried both a quick press, and holding the button for a long period.

Here are the steps i'm attempting to program the remotes.

1. Turn ignition on

2. Press and release the program button once.  Press and hold the program button  (The unit blinks and horn honks, so far so go.)

3. While still holding the program button, press the remote button.  (Here I get no feedback from the unit, no led, no horn.  Also no different feedback from the remote, just a feint red blink)

4. Release the program button

I've been reviewing my wires and notice that the door status output (-) on the bypass is not hooked to anything on the remote start.  I don't see a wire on the remote start that says anything about door status.  Could that be a problem?

Here is what i have on the python remote start for green wires.

GREEN / WHITE: Rearm (-)  I have this wire connected to the arm wire on the bypass.  I've tested this and when grounded it locks the doors.

GREEN/ Black: Disarm (-) I have this wire connected to the disarm wire on the bypass. I've tested this and when grounded it unlocks the doors.

Green: Door lock (-) Not connected to anything.  Is this the right wire?  Doesn't this wire send a signal to lock the doors? 

After some more research here, I am pretty sure that the green door lock wire on the remote start should not be connected to the door status output wire on the bypass.  I don't see anything on the Python's manual that lists a door status wire. 

Any one have any other ideas?  Could it be a defective unit?

The bypass has one set of wires for arm/lock and disarm/unlock.  I hooked them up the remote start arm and disarm wires.  Do i need to combine the lock and arm wires on the remote start and hook them up to the arm/lock wire on the remote start?

criper wrote:

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Do i need to combine the lock and arm wires on the remote start and hook them up to the arm/lock wire on the remote start?

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I meant the arm/lock wire on the bypass.

I believe we are talking about 2 things here.

Lock/UnLock/Arm/DisArm            Does the remote start do keyless entry?  If yes, you want to connect the remote starts lock & unlock outputs to the bypass module.  The bypass module sends the commands on to the car thru Can Data.  The iDatalink takes the remote starts unlock signal and tells the car to disarm and unlock.  The bypass module takes the remote starts lock command and passes that onto the car as a lock and arm command.    Using the bypass module to disarm the factory alarm requires an unlock command from the remote start, which will also unlock the doors. 

Door Triggers             The door trigger is a signal the car generates when a door is open.  The remote start needs to see that to do programming, I think.  As I said I am not familiar with your Python remote start unit.   The iDatalink bypass does output a Door Status signal that you could connect to the Pythons (-) Door Trigger input.  Or you could connect the Python directly to the Rogues door trigger wire in the DKP or BCM.

Does your Rogue have the factory alarm?  Even if it does, the alarm will not sound if the car is remote started while alarmed.

OK. No door trigger to worry about.  No Python expert, but I imagine that to program your remotes you use the Valet/Program button. 

Still the unanswered question, Is this unit a remote start only or does it include keyless entry?  That will determine how you connect the R/S door lock or arm/disarm wires to the bypass module.

Easiest way to find out.  Roll down drivers door window.  Lock car with factory FOB.  Wait for two minutes.  Reach in window and open door with inside door handle.  If horn beeps, you got the factory security.  As I mentioned earlier, even with factory security, the alarm should not sound if the car is remote started.  If you connect the Pythons disarm wire to the iDatalink UnLock/DisArm wire, it will unlock/disarm before remote start.  Then you would have to set the Python to Arm after start and connect the Arm wire to the bypass Lock/Arm wire to re-secure the Rogue.

But first you have to get the Pythons' one button transmitters programmed.  Perhaps if you listed the Python model number and the Part number / FCC number of the transmitters a Python person could help.

It's a Python Responder One Model # 4203P

The numbers on the transmitter are as follows.  (Not sure which one is most helpful)

RPN 7211P

IC: 1513A-7211

FCC ID: EZSDEI7211

howie ll wrote:

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Got to be a faulty unit, it's so simple.

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howie ll wrote:

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incidentally if you ground the WHITE/ blue activation input (probably twice in succession) does it remote start?

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I tried to start it using the WHITE/ blue activation wire, but no luck.  I've got a new unit coming that i'll try and swap out. 

Is there any way to bench test the unit to verify it's the problem?

howie ll wrote:

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Bad wiring, bet you haven't tested voltage etc. etc.
Bad wiring to by-pass, or improperly programmed.
Bad R/S or bad by-pass.
Bet you haven't tested the R/S outputs yet.

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I'll be sure to test my wires again, but i've already checked and rechecked them. 

I doubt it's the bypass.  Even without one, i should be able to program my remotes.

If i can't get the remote start to activate, how would i test the outputs?