Printer Friendly Forum Posts - viper 5902 wiring 01 civic

Hello everyone! I'm new here and need help really bad, I bought the viper 5209 and they wanted $300 to install it so I decided to do it on my own. I've never wired a remote start but have installed a few alarms and tons of stereo stuff in the past 20 some years of driving.

2001 Honda civic lx automatic no factory security.

Question: so far harness (H1) all hooked up
It took me a couple hours to figure out the fuse wasn't installed in the alarm for the lights lol!

Here is my issue for harness (H3) car won't remote start fob says remote start not available....

1- Pink, Ignition 1 input/output........blk/yel

2- RED / White, (30A fused)...ignition 2.......not connected

3- Orange, Accessory Output..............not connected

4- Violet, Starter output car side blk/wht

5- Green, Starter input key side blk/wht

6- Red, Ignition 1 Input (30A fused)...white

7- Pink/White, (30) Flex relay output................ Not connected

8- Pink/Black, (87a) Flex relay input................ Not connected

9- RED / Black, Accessory/starter relay input......white

What else do I need to hook up?
Do I need to run the tach wire from (H2) or anything else? Like the hand brake or neutral safety switch? I have found the wiring document on the12volt but the wording on the diagram doest make it idiot proof lol! Any help anyone can offer would really help me out! Thank You!

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Posted from my iphone 4

Sorry, it's the viper 5902 HD

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Posted from my iphone 4

H3/2 should be connected to constant 12 volts --White on civic

H3/3 to your accessory wire --BLACK/ Red on civic

All the other heavy gauge wires look OK.

What wires from the H1 wires connected to?? Need to have the red connected to 12 volt constant and the black to chassis ground. Make sure to check and veirfy the wires on the car with a DMM.

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H3/2 goes to White      +12v Constant
H3/3 goes to BLACK/ Red    ACC1
H3/7 goes to WHITE/ Red    ACC2     Set Viper Flex relay to Accessory2
H3/8 not used

Tach wire is the most reliable way to remote start. Any Fuel Injector non-common color wire.
The Neutral Safety wire goes chassis ground for cars with auto trans.
Hand Brake only required on manual trans cars.

Set Viper programming to auto trans.

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Soldering is fun!

I'm pretty sure everything on the h1 harness is good. Everything works, locks triggers, lights ect...

I hooked up the other wires still no remote start H3/2 and H3/3 wire as you said.

Do I need to run the tach input wire? From the H2 harness.

Do I need to run the neutral safety input? Or anything else off of the H2 harness?

My car doesn't have the immobilizer or any oem security.

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I'd like to avoid the H2 harness just to use 2 wires on it, can't I just run in the virtual tach mode and use the neutral safety toggle switch in the on position so I don't need to ground out that H2/18. Just to avoid having 16 wires extra under the dash lol.

I'm pretty sure I just need to switch to automatic trans mode at this point, I hope!

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Those extra wires can be neatly bundled and secured with a couple of tie wraps or electric tape. Personally, after I'm sure they aren't required for the install, I cut them to 2 inches and heat shrink tube them in neat adjacent groups.

Is it cold in Washington? Tach mode, connected to a Fuel Injector, is very reliable. Most comments on Virtual Tach aren't pretty, but if you try it and it doesn't work well, you can always connect the Tach wire and switch over to Tach mode.

The Neutral Safety wire must see a ground for the remote start to work. Here is an excerpt from the Viper Install guide:

Remote start input - 5-pin connector

1 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT

Connect this wire to a ground source if installing this unit in an automatic transmission
vehicle. If this unit is being installed in a manual transmission vehicle then
connect it to the emergency brake wire. This input MUST rest at ground in order
for the remote start system to operate.
Important! Always perform the steps outlined in Safety Check section to verify
that the vehicle cannot be started in ANY drive gear and that the override switch
is functioning properly.

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Soldering is fun!

Take the BLACK/ white to either the parking brake switch (or dash warning light) OR reverse light feed. Either will fulfil its function without needing the toggle switch.
ONLY use tach, possibly blue wire going to plug marked service or test under hood in loom going over one of the suspension struts.
Come to think of it tach is probably a blue wire going to the rev counter. Inst. panel removal is dead easy and you will then get access to door and trunk/hatch triggers if the warning lights are there.
Connect the RED / white.
If you run all your constants to the white lead at the ignition you won't need any fuses, that lead has a factory 50amp fuse.
Locks are easily accessed via a driver side kick panel plug.
Have we mentioned by-passes.
This is going to be a 4 pager.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

The toggle switch is wired to the unit so I was going to leave it hooked up in the on position. I wired the black and white to ground. I also wired everything as the replys came in. Every thing is wired up correctly, the car still starts with the key. As soon as I hit remote start the fob says remote start not available. I'm going to try virtual tach at first because it's on by default in the options.

I tried to program for auto trans but I can't tell what's going on, I open door, switch the key on/off then hold controll until it chirps 3 times and then I can't tell if I've got it on auto or not. At that point do I push the button twice and hold on the second/release?

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When the remote start fails, what LED error code flashes out? That will tell you if its' still in Manual Trans mode.

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Soldering is fun!

I get 7 light pulses after trying remote start.
Can anyone simplify how to set this up for automatic trans control center programing?

I Aldo need to set the flex relay for accessory 2?

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I think I have it on auto trans and flex relay set to accessory 2. Still same thing, fob says remote start not available, lights flash 7 times indicating timer mode/turbo mode/manual mode error.

What am I doing wrong, I'm at my wits end, this has been 4 fun filled days lol!

So I open the door, turn key on then off, press control button till I hear 3 chirps for menu 3, then press once for menu 3 option 1, then I hold it and press unlock for auto trans opt.2, release, the blue light flashes 2 times indicating opt.2 is selected. and then alarm chirps and goes off for a second I hit unlock and close the door and test, remote start not available, 7 flashes.

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Just for grins, try going through it again only this time press the LOCK button. The install instructions state:

Pressing the button that arms the system selects the options in increasing order.... Just a thought.

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Cool I finally got it to attempt a remote start, it tries 3 times and reports a code: tach voltage to low. Looks like a tach wire is required, virtual tach or not. I'll hook that up tomorrow. A Huge Thank You to all of you that tried to help me. I'm almost happy. Window module next week lol! I'll be back!

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Ok so now I hooked up the tach wire, when I hit remote start the car just keeps turning over until I stop it. Could it be the flex relay setting? I put it on accessory 2 is there anything else you can think of or do I have a wire crossed? On the h2 harness all I have hooked up is the tach. The neutral safety is grounded. Help!!!

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By the way I don't get any errors back on the led or the lights or the remote! Just turns over won't start!

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Again, didn't I mention by-passes?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Howie, I'm not sure what you mean by bypass, are you trying to help me or diss me?

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Two things.

1. ) Did you do a Tach Learn? This is necessary before trying a remote start in Tach mode.

2.) Try a remote start with a working key in the ignition switch but left in the OFF position. This will determine if your transponder bypass module is working. You did not mention it so far, but one is probably required for your car. If you didn't install a transponder bypass module and the car starts with the key inserted, then you need a bypass module as Howard has pointed out. If you did install one and the car starts with the key inserted, then it didn't program properly. Here is a link to DEI listings for your car : https://www.xpresskit.com/VehicleCompatibility.aspx?p=-1&year=2001&make=Honda&model=Civic&ps=1&s=0

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Soldering is fun!

I havnt installed a bypass, I didn't think I needed one since the car has zero security, thank you for taking the time to help me out, I'll look into the bypass. Sorry Howie I'm doing the best I can!

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The PKH34 or the PKALL are the easiest to install & program. Available online from various places for about $25 to $40. ( If you opt for the PKALL, make sure it is Brand New In Box - Never Used, Etc. It can only be programmed to one car. )

If the car starts with the key inserted, then you are all set except for the bypass....

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Soldering is fun!

Yep, you were right, it starts with the key in! Lol! What a relief! You guys rock!

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Yes I suppose I was dissing you but only as a friendly teacher might posted_image

Kreg knows what I was getting at...check all your info and are you reading what we post?
My little one liners are meant to be incisive not offensive I admit there's always a tinge of cynicism but there you go.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yes I've been reading all the posts, I wouldn't have been able to do it without you guys! I ordered the PKH34 to "bypass" lol. Thanks guys!

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Ok so I have a 2001 civic lx auto, Viper 5902 alarm. The Remote start works with the key in. I wired up the pkh34 and when I plug it in the light just stays on until I turn the key to the on position. The instructions say to press and hold the button while turning the key, pkh34 should blink, but it doesn't.
I'm running the D2D cable. My car is listed as install "A" type Honda.

On the pk I have brown status wire hooked to the vipers H2/10 (-)200ma status output. do I need this since I'm running the d2d cable?

On the pk I have violet data wire hooked to the pin#2 RED / blue as stated by instructions.

On the pk I have pink/white key side to pin5 (I cut this wire in half) and pink to ECM side.

On the pk I have orange ignition to pin6

Red to 12v constant

Black chassis ground to pin#1 key side

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Is there any settings I need to change on the 5902? I forgot to ask!

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Ok so after some more research is obvious to me that the bypass isn't programed properly. I do what the instructions say but it's not working. I try resetting and after that the pk light stays on while holding the button in It's supposed to blink but it never does. What does this mean? Wiring problem? I've tripple checked everything.

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If you are running D2D you shouldn't need the Brown GRW, the Red +12v or the Black Ground wires connected. Being as you do, just disconnect the D2D harness and try a reset and another program.

If you do run in D2D mode, did you set the Viper jumpers to "external D2D module"?

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Soldering is fun!

Ok, I unplugged the d2d, hold button in and unplug the 10 pin to reset, the pk light is off now and I don't get a flash while holding the button in after plugging in the 10pin. Weird!

Before the light would stay on until I hit the key.

Now when I try to program I hold the button in and turn key I get one red flash. I test the remote start and the green key light is still flashing while the engine turns over. Thank you for your help! I hope I can get this going today!!!

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The jumpers are in the default position, the pkh34 doesn't mention the jumpers. The 5902 instructions say the default position is used for most express kits so I didn't change it. Should I?

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If you are running W2W, the Vipers jumpers shouldn't matter. When in D2D mode with an external bypass module, they should both be in the horizontal position. That can be your next try. Disconnect the Brown, Red and Black wires and re-connect the D2D cable. Then reset and program.

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Soldering is fun!

I unplugged the red, black, brown. Now I get no light on the pkh34 during a reset or during the programming. However when I try the remote start the key light on the dash doesn't flash, car turns over but won't start.

I have On the pk I have violet data wire hooked to the pin#2 RED / blue as stated by instructions.

On the pk I have pink/white key side to pin5 (I cut this wire in half) and pink to ECM side.

On the pk I have orange ignition to pin6 BLACK / YELLOW

Well that's where I'm at, confused! Of cource it's raining really heavy here in WA!

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I plugged the d2d cable back in. I forgot to mention that.

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I also verified I have 12v's going into the pk thru the d2d cable. I'm stumped.

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I just noticed that when I shut the car off the key light no longer flashes when I open the door. I can't figure this out, please help!

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The remote start still only works only with the key in. Car still starts with the key.

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HELP! S.O.S.

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Does it give the correct responses during reset and programming?

The new sympton with the security light not coming on could be a loose connection or bad module.

If you believe all the wiring is done correctly and well soldered / insulated and your Reset / Programming technique is correct, then the PKH34 must be bad. I would try another PKH34 module.

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Soldering is fun!

I'm pretty sure everything is done right, I thought the security light not coming on would indicate that the bypass is working. Up to this point the security light was on during remote start.
My car is a install "A" Honda & Acura type "c" correct?

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yes...install"A" is what you should be following.

hmmm....D2D is unreliable...go with the W2W connections. I have yet to even try D2D, and probably wont 'cause W2W hasnt failed me yet. the green light on the dash should operate as normal during remote start with the bypass or with the key. also, 'cause you're using a bypass that uses the vehicles data, make sure to SOLDER your connections for the bypass.
good luck q=^)

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do it right the first time....less warranty work=more money!:)

I'll try it tomorrow before work! Thank you for taking the time to help me out, I really appreciate the site and the people on it. I'll let you know what happens w2w tomorrow!

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Yes, follow to PKH34 Install A Type C section of the guide. The wire locations and colors listed for the immobilizer connector are correct. All connections should be soldered.

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Soldering is fun!

Yep, you were right, I went w2w and soldiered everything and it works great! Woohoo! Now I noticed after remote starting I can't de-activate it by getting in the car and turning the key to the on position, do I need the brake wire hooked up on the viper 5902? H2/17 brown wire?

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Of course to switched side of brake switch. Extremely dangerous until you do.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Got it, good to go! Thank you so much for taking the time to help me out! This install took me to another level! The12volt rocks!

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Posted from my iphone 4

glad to hear everything worked for you...q=^)

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do it right the first time....less warranty work=more money!:)

I just wanted to say that when I went to program the PKH34 it didn't work like the instructions said, I had to hold the button in and then plug in the harness and then turned the key to the on position and the light goes out, release the button. Done!
I'm really happy to have remote start, now I hit it 5min before I leave work and save some freeze time! It's great! Thanks again to all that helped me out on this install!

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New problem guys, the alarm has been working flawless! The problem I have now is I did the paper clip srs reset and it only lasts about a week. I undid the seat connector and plugged it back in to make sure it's not that. After a reset it seems to last like 20 starts and then comes back on, any ideas? Resetting it is driving me nuts, I haven't had time to tear into it so it's been this way for months! Is it possible one of my connections isn't good enough?

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Help!

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unplug 5902, reset srs, wait to see if srs light comes back....basically, get the car back to its original state before the srs light started coming on......other than that, not sure what else to tell ya.....including any accessories you may have installed along with the 5902.....ie: battery back up, motuion sensor, window mods, sound equipment....I hope you get the idea and good luck.

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do it right the first time....less warranty work=more money!:)

jstall7543 wrote:

I just wanted to say that when I went to program the PKH34 it didn't work like the instructions said, I had to hold the button in and then plug in the harness and then turned the key to the on position and the light goes out, release the button. Done!
I'm really happy to have remote start, now I hit it 5min before I leave work and save some freeze time! It's great! Thanks again to all that helped me out on this install!

Ive been having problems with a newly installed PKH34 as well on a 2006 Honda Civic Ex with a Viper 5101. I used w2w and did exactly as I quoted above, and this solved the problem. It seems the instructions are wrong. Instructions for this year, make and model vehicle called for: Plug in module, insert key, turn to ignition- led comes on then turns off and the module is programmed. Simple as that! Yah, right. Might work for some Hondas, but not for mine or jstall7543's. Thanks to all for the help!