input needed on 05 accord wiring

I've pulled two wiring info. One from the commando alarm website and the other from the 12volt.com site. Would appreciate anyone's input to the following two questions:

1) trigger door input - commando alarm describes a location at the back of the fuse box where one would make connections to four separate wires (each corresponding to a door) along with diode isolate. On the other hand, the 12volt wire description talks about one single wire connection. I think i know the answer to my question..anyway is the four wire installation a better one since one does not have to consider the dome light delay and thus set the alarm accordingly? this is preferred by will take more wiring and the need to purchase diodes (cheap though).
2) on the 12 volt site, there is a description of the hood pin but its location as cited is near the latch. anyone knows where i can find this trigger wire inside the car?

Oh and one more question, 12volt.com describes a negative white wire on the driver door module to disarm the factory alarm. What use is of this info? could i connect this wire to my alarm negative output when arm to disable the factory alarm? sorry novice..

aloha.

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CJ

Connect the factory disarm wire to the Door Unlock wire of the new alarm.  When you disarm the new alarm, the door unlock wire will disarm the factory alarm.

Years ago the delayed domelight wire did cause problems.  Any new Reputable company manufactured alarm will have no problem with the delay.  It will chirp 3 times to let you know that there is an open door.  Before you get into wherever you are going in, the alarm will chirp the one time to let you know that the door has been closed and the alarm will now cover the doors.

Yeah, what he said.

1. Most good modern alarms have a setting to adjust for the delayed domelight. I use Audiovox, which can be programmed for up to 60 seconds' delay, and I would use the domelight wire on your car.

2. The "drive door module" is the power window switch. Yes, the arm and disarm wires are only available inside the door---no fun to run wires in there.

3. I'm pretty sure the hood wire is only available out under the hood.

4. What are you using to interface with the car's anti-theft immobilizer? Do you have an extra key to sacrifice for the install?

If you don't mind spending a few bucks, and you don't want to lose a key, use a databus module and save lots of time.

Any of the modules from ADS (idatalink.com) and I'm pretty sure Fortin's new EVO-ALL (ifar.ca) will give you arm/disarm, hoodpin, tachometer, and other functions without running wires all over the car and without giving up a key.

thanks for all of your replies.

in response to hooking up the door trigger wire to the alarm disable, i think the new alarm (which is being shipped as we speak), will come with extra channel outputs. One of them will trigger a negative when the alarm is armed and another when its disarmed (need to reconfirm). Given what was said, I think i'll make the appropriate connections to both arm and disarm on the factory alarm wires with the aftermarket alarm wire (i.e., door unlock wire and neg output of the additional channel).

in regards to the immobilizer, is this important only if i decide to hook up a remote startup feature to my accord? my plan was to piggy back the after market alarm with the factory alarm. i only plan to hook the door, hood and trunk triggers wires from the after market alarm. please let me know if anyone forsee a problem with this plan..
aloha.

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CJ

Door trigger and door unlock wire are not the same. 

You shouldn't need to worry about either separate door triggers or dome light delay if the following occurs:-
When you close your doors does the dome light stay on for about 1 minute?
Conversely if you close your door and then lock it either with the key or an existing OEM fob does this turn off the dome light within 4 seconds?
If so just go to the dome light wire that shows a neg on opening the door after it has been shut and the dome light has shut down.
Most reputable units will ignore up to 5 seconds as a built in delay therefore no problems.
Door trigger triggers the dome and any other interior lights,e.g. door edge warning lights.
Lock trigger is what triggers the lock/unlock relays which drive the door actuators.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks all for the responses. Now if I hook the alarm (by the way it's a Viper 3002) door lock and unlock to the factory arm and disarm wires does anyway one know if it factory alarm will subsequently respond as such to lock and unlock the car door?

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CJ

Just checked Directwire. I know the alarm but not the car.
Directwire gives pink/black as lock and pink/blue as unlock, both neg pulse at the fusebox.
It gives blue/white to blue/red as factory alarm and BLACK/ red to white as disarm, again neg pulse this time in the driver's door module.
Without having done this vehicle, to play safe I would Y-split the lock and unlock wires, one Y to each and branch to these two locations. Use a diode 1N4004 in line on each of the four with the bands towards the alarm.
Thus your 3002 will also arm and disarm the factory alarm. If this is over the top will someone with the specific vehicle knowledge please chime in here.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

For my 2005 Honda Accord, I've got in hand the wiring diagram from this website. I removed the kick panel and am looking straight at the under dash fuse/relay box. Wires I need to find in this area are the door triggers and the + wire for the parking lights. Spend quite a bit of time trying to locate these wires and testing for polarity with my meter. Been unsuccessful.

door trigger - should be a green wire on a 5 pin plug behind the fusebox. mmm..this fuse box is bolted down. is there an easier way to get to these wires?

parking lights - RED / black wire on a white plug on top of fuse box. I've see a plug but is right above the relays. I see two RED / black wires but i don't see a positive voltage or voltage at all when i turn on the parking lights.

any help especially with photos will be greatly appreciated.

Oh also there is a plate that is quite large behind the driver's dashboard lower cover. i'm thinking of mounting my viper 3002 module on this but it will be quite tough. other option was to strap it to a wire harness but i think it would not be a good idea since the two stage shock sensor is onboard (built into the module). any comments appreciated.

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CJ

If you have a built in shock sensor they recommend you cable (zip) tie to a loom.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks for the quick response guys. Anyone can tell me how to get inside the fuse box if its simple to explain? Otherwise i'll have to do some more research on this so that I don't damage any kind of wiring/mounting and secondly, if i do tap into the neg side of the parking lights at the switch, i assume i should have no problem hooking it to my alarm..alarm spec says current draw should not exceed 10 amps.


will consider strapping the module to a stiff wire loom as suggested.

p.s. i notice on the response showing the wire diagrams, there are funky looking symbols...do they link up to some notes or pics..i am using firefox as my browser.

thx.

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CJ

You obviously don't listen, I've NEVER had to get to that fusebox except maybe lock and unlock. If the dome light behaves the way I stated before, pick it up in one of the A pillars. Do you have icons on your gauges for door and trunk open? That's a good place to pick up door and trunk triggers (neg switched side of the warning lights). You can probably pick up lock and unlock on the driver's kick panel, test the plugs, you will see what's coming in from the driver's door.
Such an easy car to do.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Okay..do i deserve this kind of response??? mmm..another platinum user provided me a table which dictates to get to the MCU from inside the fuse box..now i hear you about going to the A piller but i don't really want to get monkey around in this area since there is an air bag module along this structure along the trim, if i have to go that high. any positive, encouraging and cordial response will be greatly APPRECIATED...i claim to be an amateur.

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CJ

Yes because you didn't give me the courtesy of telling me whether or not you listened to my post about the dome lights or my more recent comment about the gauges. You will probably have to route around the A pillar for the antenna any way.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Also another Platinum Member Chris also told you about the dome light wire on an earlier post. For your info, the fuse box probably drops down on 2 x M6 (10mm) nuts or bolts, BUT it's much easier to identify the plugs and pull the individual plugs, usually by squeezing in the centre catch.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

FYI. I finally was able to get my wire connections and my alarm to work correctly. Thanks to all who really helped me.

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CJ

Thought I share two take outs from my personal installation...hopefully others can benefit from this:

1) wire installation. I found out it is a good idea to check various sources when it comes to finding out where the wires are. For example, one source says for the constant power and ignition wire, go to the ignition harness. Well after considering other sources, i found out that the underdash fuse/relay box is the easiest location to tap to for the Accord. I fact, this is the easiest place to most of your taps.

2) Getting the door triggers wires was quite easy. There is a bundle of wires that projects out from behind the fuse/relay box. So there is NO need to get behind this box at all. I thought i had to actually go behind this box..

3)

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CJ

So far I took the panel off from a 05 Accord EXL and did some probing behind the plastic sheet (vapor barrier)? Two questions, where exactly are the arm/disarm wires. I've seen some photos where these wires are on a green plug but I really can't find them. Do I need to unbolt some harness inside the door?... A photo would be great. The other question, what is the adhesive called that used to secure the plastic onto the door frame?

p.s. just a comment. I noticed that the cable that connects to the interior door handle has a fragile green stub that should seat snuggly into the door handle assembly. That part had completely severed. Anyone know of a easy fix or just ignore it..

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CJ

From memory the arm and disarm wires are in the harness that goes to the power window / door lock switch.

The stuff that holds the plastic on the door is called monkey snot. Well, that is what we call it! Not sure what the technical name is.

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Kevin Pierson

it should be on the switch going to the locks if i recall. your meter has the answer for you already! as far as that tar crap it's name is 3m strip caulk.

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A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

Thanks folks. Will test the wires to the switch, ie the WHITE/ red and white wires). Will set my DDM to check for resistance to ground (which should trigger the alarm to arm and disarm given they are the correct wires. And where can I find this monkey snoot or 3m adhesive besides the auto store?

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CJ

Monkey snot or as WE call it "that s**t that you can't get off your hands" is similar to silicon rubber grommet sealer which all installers should carry. Gaff or carpet tape or whatever you call it is a good substitute.
TRhe best place for the green "thingummy", rod insert? Is a breaker's (wrecker's or scrapyard) your local Honda stealership will probably try and sell you the whole mechanism.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.