viper 5902 central locking system.
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=124044
Printed Date: May 19, 2024 at 4:54 AM
Topic: viper 5902 central locking system.
Posted By: exco55
Subject: viper 5902 central locking system.
Date Posted: October 21, 2010 at 1:21 PM
Hey guys.
Really cool forum, hope to get alot of help in here ;)
Im from DK and thinking about importing the Viper 5902 alarm for my car.
but im unsure about 1 thing on the alarm, the alarm i have now needs to be connected with 6 wires to get the central locking system to luck and unlock, previus alarms also had 6 wires, and can´t find any manuals for the Viper 5902, found a guide for the Clifford alarm, and from what iv heard thats pretty much the same alarm and it seems like only 2 wires needs to be connected, 1 for lock and 1 for unlock, is this right or am i way off ?
Regards the newbie 
Replies:
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 21, 2010 at 2:08 PM
Well please follow the rules and tell us make model and year of your vehicle, then I can give you the correct answer.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: exco55
Date Posted: October 21, 2010 at 2:14 PM
Sorry for that.
The car is a vauxhall/opel Vectra B from 98
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 21, 2010 at 3:01 PM
Known as type B central locking, neg pulse, BROWN / red lock, BROWN / white unlock, BROWN / black total close these wires come from the CDL control unit, right/hand DKP on r/h/d vauxhalls, possibly the opposite on l/h/d Opels.
Use diodes with the green and blue lock wires from the 5902, 1N4004, in line on those wires, band towards the alarm, use one of your aux output wires timed for the length of time it takes your key in driver's door to lock, then deadlock and close all the windows and add 2 seconds, join to the BROWN / black wire, all at the same place.
Frankly from your question on the locks I would have this professionally installed.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 21, 2010 at 3:03 PM
Actually on your original alarm it had internal relays the 5902 doesn't hence the 6 wires, of which 2 weren't used, 2 went to ground and 2 went to the original lock trigger wires, assuming, factory installed central locking.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: exco55
Date Posted: October 21, 2010 at 3:45 PM
So something like this.
Blue (with a diode attached to it (1N4004 with the band towards the alarm))goes to BROWN / white
Green (with a diode attached to it (1N4004 with the band towards the alarm))goes to BROWN / red
Why do I need the AUX timing for locking and unlocking ?
I do not need total closeing of the windows when locking the car (because of the dog in the family)
Posted By: exco55
Date Posted: October 21, 2010 at 3:53 PM
Forgot to mention, central locking is factory installed.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 21, 2010 at 4:11 PM
Yes to the first part but if you trigger the total close from an aux, it then becomes YOUR choice rather than the alarm's!
Two points:-
A) Running the total close for about 3 secs will deadlock the vehicle,
B) If you only have front power windows you won't have any problems with venting the rear, it will keep most dogs away from the front seats.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: exco55
Date Posted: October 22, 2010 at 12:24 AM
i have power windows in all 4 dors :)
The deadlock is funny with the vectra, you have to press the lock button on the original remote twice to activated it, so I guess that option will not help ?
And i guees I can still total close with AUX manually.
It´s Awagon so he is always in the back of the car, but it´s nice for him to have some fresh air in the car.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 22, 2010 at 3:24 AM
Then go with what you wanted to do. Just as a sidebar there is a way to separately enable the deadlock if you want. I've got a dental appointment right now but if you post back I'll tell you how.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: exco55
Date Posted: October 22, 2010 at 3:41 AM
howie ll wrote:
Then go with what you wanted to do. Just as a sidebar there is a way to separately enable the deadlock if you want. I've got a dental appointment right now but if you post back I'll tell you how.
You are very helpfull inded, thx for that.
Ill be glad to hear your solution.
Iv installed my other alarm myself, but like to ask alot when i have to do something just to be sure, hope thats ok 
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 22, 2010 at 4:30 AM
I'm back, saved the tooth!!!
OK, first set the aux that I suggested for the car's BROWN / black total(comfort) close wire to 3 seconds. That should deadlock, it will also bring the windows up about 2-3" (50-80mm).
If that method fails, coming out of the CDL control unit, again in one of the kick-panels will be a BLACK/ blue* wire.
Wire as following:-
Timed aux at 3 seconds to 85.
12Volt constant 15amps fused to 86 and 87.
cut end to CDL unit to 87a.
Cut end to car to 30.
Good luck, got to go to work now.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 22, 2010 at 4:33 AM
*Sorry meant to say that wire might be blue/black, to test it sits on ground (earth/mass) and goes to 12volts + when you press the lock button twice on the factory remote.
P.S. Your use of English shames many North Americans on this site.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 22, 2010 at 4:36 AM
I also forgot to mention the factory immobiliser.
for this you will need a spare BASIC key i.e. without any buttons on it for remote control and a DEI 556UW set up for European cars as per its insrtuctions.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: exco55
Date Posted: October 22, 2010 at 4:41 AM
howie ll wrote:
*Sorry meant to say that wire might be blue/black, to test it sits on ground (earth/mass) and goes to 12volts + when you press the lock button twice on the factory remote.
P.S. Your use of English shames many North Americans on this site.
Is my english that bad ? :)
Posted By: exco55
Date Posted: October 22, 2010 at 4:42 AM
howie ll wrote:
I also forgot to mention the factory immobiliser.
for this you will need a spare BASIC key i.e. without any buttons on it for remote control and a DEI 556UW set up for European cars as per its insrtuctions.
The problem with the key is allready taken care of as the alarm i have now also have remote start ;)
Posted By: exco55
Date Posted: October 22, 2010 at 4:44 AM
There is no relay needed for the total close action ? (I guess the comfort module takes over when the wire gets the pulse ?
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 22, 2010 at 4:45 AM
No, it's that GOOD!
Thanks for knowing about the by-pass. ------------- Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 22, 2010 at 4:46 AM
Yes to your last question, it's permanently powered up.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: exco55
Date Posted: October 22, 2010 at 5:21 AM
Thx I get by with my English ;)
I might have a few more 1000 questions for you, so if I get on your nerves lemme know :)
The domelight, that is an extra you buy for the 5902 right ?
What is the dif bewteen ignition 1 and 2
1 is the first turn of the key
2 is the second turn with the key ?
and what is a flex relay ? (This wire is the polarity feed for the ignition 2/flex relay.)
PS: HATE dentists...
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 22, 2010 at 1:14 PM
Yes you will need to relay it as per the installation instructions, N.B. if no instructions, I can email all the relevant instructions if you PM me at the time.
You join it to the green door trigger wire going to the Vectra's grey wire all door trigger).
If your dome light comes on when you unlock the doors before opening them you won't need it.
Ignition 1 is the main ignition concerned with starting the car, black at the ignition switch (and by the way the wiring there on right hand drive cars is a mustard to get at)
The second ignition controls things like heating wipers rear defrost etc.
Both come on (I believe the second is also black or BLACK / YELLOW so be careful testing) when the key is inserted and turned to the first position.
When you turn to the second position (start) ign 1 stays live the starter wire (BLACK/ red) goes live and ign 2 and the thin red ACC dump.
The flex relay will be used to control ignition 2.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: exco
Date Posted: October 22, 2010 at 1:36 PM
Thx for all your kind help m8.
Ordered the alarm today on ebay from the US, hope it will arive soon :)
might be PMing you when it arrives for more info ;)
Have a great weekend..
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 22, 2010 at 1:39 PM
You mean sleep! Having to fly up to Scotland on Wednesday didn't help much, up for 23 hours, back just in time to see my lot go down 3-0 to Inter Milan at half time didn't help my mental state, effing Easy Jet didn't help my physical state!
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: exco
Date Posted: October 22, 2010 at 1:44 PM
howie ll wrote:
You mean sleep! Having to fly up to Scotland on Wednesday didn't help much, up for 23 hours, back just in time to see my lot go down 3-0 to Inter Milan at half time didn't help my mental state, effing Easy Jet didn't help my physical state!
hehe, well atleast you aint gonna be bother with more of my silly questions for now ;)
Know all about traveling and no sleep, work at Vestas :)
Posted By: exco55
Date Posted: November 14, 2010 at 2:58 AM
Hey guys.
The alarm is now installed and working except for the remote start.
Tryed the MTS guide in the user manual, but just keeps saying REMOTE START NOT AVALIBLE.
Also tryed the Learning The Tach, but nada happens when pressing the Control Button
The manual Valet function is working, so the button is functional :)
Any clues ?
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 14, 2010 at 3:25 AM
Make sure the green door trigger wire is grounded for programming, test with meter.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: exco55
Date Posted: November 16, 2010 at 6:48 AM
howie ll wrote:
Make sure the green door trigger wire is grounded for programming, test with meter.
Thats allready connected to the door, does that mean the door needs to be open ?
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 16, 2010 at 6:53 AM
Yes. What I meant was the door should be open and the green should show a ground, if not temporarily ground the green for programming.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: exco55
Date Posted: November 17, 2010 at 1:09 AM
howie ll wrote:
Yes. What I meant was the door should be open and the green should show a ground, if not temporarily ground the green for programming.
Well tryed with the door open, and the green wire is getting ground, but still no response from the control button when trying to learn the tach. 
Posted By: exco
Date Posted: November 17, 2010 at 1:28 PM
Maybe someone could tell me exactly where the following wires go to, not on the particular car but like +12V starter wire etc, cause the diagram is not really for normal people :)
Remote start (H3) 10-pin connector
H3/1 Pink
H3/2 RED / White
H3/3 Orange
H3/4 Violet - starter side
H3/5 Green - starter key side
H3/6 Red - constant 12V ?
H3/7 Pink/White
Posted By: exco
Date Posted: November 17, 2010 at 2:11 PM
Sorry forgot
H3/8 Pink/Black
H3/9 RED / Black
H3/10 NC - not connected
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 17, 2010 at 3:30 PM
Pink to your ignition 1 black it stays live during cranking.
RED / white, Red and RED / black all to the thick red at ignition lead.
Orange to accessory, the thin red at ignition lead.
Cut starter lead, I believe it's BLACK/ red,
Green to switch, violet to starter.
Pink/white to second ignition, I believe also black, this will go to 12V on ignition, dump during start.
Pink/black not used.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: exco
Date Posted: November 17, 2010 at 4:19 PM
howie ll wrote:
Pink to your ignition 1 black it stays live during cranking.
RED / white, Red and RED / black all to the thick red at ignition lead.
Orange to accessory, the thin red at ignition lead.
Cut starter lead, I believe it's BLACK/ red,
Green to switch, violet to starter.
Pink/white to second ignition, I believe also black, this will go to 12V on ignition, dump during start.
Pink/black not used.
think thats how we did it, going to check the connections tomorrow, also the neutral switch wire BLACK/ White.
When talkin ignition, ign is the first key turn and ign2 is the key turn just before turning starter right ?
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 17, 2010 at 4:26 PM
No on your car you share with VW a unique accessory system.
Key in position 1 ignition 1 and 2 and accessory. Move to the spring detente and you get ignition 1 and starter. To have on just ACC, move the key back to off without removing it simply powers up the radio, nothing else. All other makes apart from American cars, go key in, ! = Acc, 2 =ACC Ignition 1 and 2 where installed, 3 on the spring = starter, e.g. all Japanese, Ford , Rover, Jaguar, Renault, Peugeot, Saab etc.etc.
US vehicles bring the key backwards for accessory then forwards for ignition and start.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: exco
Date Posted: November 18, 2010 at 9:58 AM
ok did some testing on the wires, and it is as follows.
1 pink - Ign (everything powers up)
2 RED / white - Constant 12V
3 Orange - not connected
4 Violet - starter car side
5 Green - starter key side
6 red - constant 12V
7 pink/white - Ign (everything powers up)
8 pink/black - not connected
9 RED / black - constant 12V
10 not used
Orange should be connected to ACC right ?
pink/white is that wired right ?
This is how he connected it to the car.
Then we have
H2/18 BLACK/ White is connected to Handbrake and is grounded when pulled.
H1/8 Green is connected to Door trigger and is grounded when door is open.
Does this help ?
And howie thx for spending your time helping ;)
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 18, 2010 at 10:37 AM
Correct BUT
there are 2 ignitions coming from the switch 1 goes to the pink and this one stays live during cranking. The second is connected to pink/white and dumps during cranking.
Orange goes to the thin red ACC wire at the ignition switch. This only powers the radio so do you need it?
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: exco
Date Posted: November 18, 2010 at 10:44 AM
howie ll wrote:
Correct BUT
there are 2 ignitions coming from the switch 1 goes to the pink and this one stays live during cranking. The second is connected to pink/white and dumps during cranking.
Orange goes to the thin red ACC wire at the ignition switch. This only powers the radio so do you need it?
What part is correct? hehe
So all is then connected right ?
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 18, 2010 at 11:10 AM
BUT + the fact that you appear confused as to ign. 1 and ign 2. Test because if you get them the wrong way round it won't fire up. Ign 1 also brings up your gauges.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: exco
Date Posted: November 18, 2010 at 12:56 PM
Will check,
A side question, for all the remote start to work at all does it not need to be programmed ?
Tryed programming Menu 3,1 to Manual and 3,2 Tachometer (When violet/white is connected to RPM gauage)
but the brain does not react when starting the car and press/holding the control button.
Posted By: exco
Date Posted: November 20, 2010 at 9:34 AM
Guess the silence means no more help.
Anyway got it working, but thx for the help.
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