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remote start clifford 50.7x

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=124104
Printed Date: June 15, 2025 at 7:08 AM


Topic: remote start clifford 50.7x

Posted By: dplus
Subject: remote start clifford 50.7x
Date Posted: October 24, 2010 at 3:46 PM

Hey i'm new to this forum, and decided to join because i really need some input. this forum has helped out big time. i just installed a 50.7x clifford alarm into my tacoma 2002 xtra cab prerunner automatic, the alarm works fine but cannot get the remote starter to work. instead i get a remote start error on the 2 way remote...

here's my wiring scheme
for the H3 wire harness:
(module -> tacoma wires)
Pink -> BLK/RED
RED / WHT -> WHT
Violet -> car side of starter wire
GRN -> key side of starter wire
RED -> WHT/RED
Pink/WHT -> BLK/YEL
Pink/BLK -> not used
RED / BLK -> not used

for the RS in:
BLK/WHT -> grounded for automatic trans
Violet/WHT -> light GRN/BLK near glove dept
BRN -> GRN/WHT above brake pedal
Gray -> hood switch connected..
BLU/WHT -> not used

please let me know i can get the remote starter to work. do i need to add a relay switch, etc??

-------------
~DPlus



Replies:

Posted By: dplus
Date Posted: October 24, 2010 at 4:06 PM
here's the wiring schematic i used...

PART       COLOR      LOCATION      DIAGRAM
12 VOLT CONSTANT      WHITE (+) and WHITE/ RED (+)      IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS     
STARTER      BLACK (+)      IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS     
STARTER 2      N/A           
IGNITION 1      BLACK/ RED (+)      IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS     
IGNITION 2      BLACK / YELLOW (+)      IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS     
IGNITION 3      N/A           
ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1      BLUE/RED (+)      IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS     
ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 2      N/A           
KEYSENSE      LIGHT GREEN/ RED (-)      IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS     
PARKING LIGHTS ( - )      PURPLE / RED (-)      @ FRONT of FUSEBOX, 22-PIN Plug     
PARKING LIGHTS ( + )      GREEN (+)      @ BACK of FUSEBOX, 12-PIN Plug     
POWER LOCK      GRAY (TYPE B) See NOTE *1      @ 22-PIN PLUG, FRONT of FUSE BOX     
POWER UNLOCK      PURPLE (TYPE B) See NOTE *1      @ 22-PIN PLUG, FRONT of FUSE BOX     
LOCK MOTOR WIRE      BLUE/WHITE (+)      IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL, 12-PIN Plug, Pin 10     
DOOR TRIGGER      See NOTE *2      @ 22-PIN PLUG, FRONT of FUSE BOX      22171_TACOMA_(-) NEGATIVE DOOR PIN ISOLATION CIRCUIT.pdf
DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION      GREEN (-), Requires Part #775 Relay      @ 22-PIN PLUG, FRONT of FUSE BOX     
TRUNK RELEASE      N/A           
SLIDING POWER DOOR      N/A           
HORN      GREEN/ RED (-)      @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS     
TACH      LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK (-)      See NOTE *3     
WAIT TO START LIGHT      N/A           
BRAKE      GREEN / WHITE (+)      @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL     
FACTORY ALARM DISARM      N/A           
ANTI-THEFT      N/A           
NOTES
NOTE *1 Test the LOCK and UNLOCK wires ONLY by operating the KEY in the PASSENGER DOOR LOCK CYLINDER. Wires will not test from POWER DOOR LOCK SWITCH.


NOTE *2 THE DRIVER DOOR TRIGGER IS GREEN(-), THE FRONT PASSENGER DOOR TRIGGER IS GREEN / WHITE(-) AND THE REAR DOOR TRIGGER IS YELLOW /GREEN(-) . WHEN CONNECTING TO AN ALARM SYSTEM, USE ALL (3) DOOR TRIGGER WIRES AND DIODE ISOLATE, TO CONNECT, SEE DIAGRAM


NOTE *3 on the 4-Cylinder engine, the tach wire is at the DATA LINK CONNECTOR to the RIGHT of the STEERING COLUMN, on the V-6 engine, the tach wire is a the IGNITER on the PASSENGER FENDER, below the AIR FILTER BOX.
     
EXTRA INFORMATION

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~DPlus




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 24, 2010 at 4:28 PM
Is an immobiliser by-pass needed? Have you properly programmed tach?

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 24, 2010 at 4:34 PM
Also you should have connected the RED / black.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: dplus
Date Posted: October 24, 2010 at 4:34 PM
since i have an 2002 tacoma i believe an immobilizer by pass is not needed... as far as programming the tach i have not done that yet. don't i have to get the remote start to work first to program the tach?

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~DPlus




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: October 24, 2010 at 4:36 PM

H3/9  RED / Black to +12v Constant  ( White or WHITE/ Red at ignition switch harness )

No bypass modules listed ( Builldog Security or iDatalink ) so it might not need one.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: dplus
Date Posted: October 24, 2010 at 4:37 PM
when you say RD/BLK,you are talking about the H3/9 wire right?

-------------
~DPlus




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 24, 2010 at 4:39 PM
DEI shows no immobiliser needed, before completion, run engine for about 1 minute or until temp. gauge starts moving, then programme tach, also set up the unit as auto transmission.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 24, 2010 at 4:42 PM
Yes,you never powered up the starter feed! Bloody amateurs, RTFM!
I've never installed one, they've only just become available here but you obviously never read the instructions especially what to hook up and the sections on tach programming and auto transmissions.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: dplus
Date Posted: October 24, 2010 at 4:52 PM
i have it set for auto, i've connected the RD/BLK and still the error occurs.. so the H3/6 RED, H3/2 RED / WHT, and H3/9 RED / BLK all need to be tied to 12V const?

-------------
~DPlus




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: October 24, 2010 at 5:22 PM

Yes, all three to +12v constant.  ( Also H1/2 )

Any additional info on the Error Message?  LED blink counts?

Did you set the programming to Tach Mode?  ( Menu 3, Menu Item 2, Option 4 )  Did you verify the Tach signal with a DMM?  Did you get a successful Tach Learn?



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: dplus
Date Posted: October 24, 2010 at 5:45 PM
all three are connected to 12V constant, also H1/2. remote still says remote start error and the blinker counts 7 times. did not set the program tach mode yet, will do right now. tested the tach line RSI 2 Violet/WHT at the brain and no signal

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~DPlus




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 24, 2010 at 5:51 PM
Do you know about the different tach wire locations on 4 and 6 cyl. cars? What signal are you looking for , i.e. voltage with engine running.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: October 24, 2010 at 5:54 PM

7 blinks leads me to believe you are still in Manual Transmission Mode...

You can get a Tach signal at any Fuel Injector.  Each should have two wires attached.  All will have one common colored wire and one unique colored wire.  Test unique wire with DMM set to 20V AC, black to chassis ground and red to F.I. wire.  Should be 1 to 6 VAC and rise with RPMs.  Not sure on a 2002 Tacoma, but check to see if the OBD2 connector under the dash has a Black wire at Pin 9.  That is also a Tach signal.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 24, 2010 at 5:59 PM
K, the 4 cylinder is at the OBD ll, pin 9, 6 cyl. under the air filter (ignition amp) in the engine bay that's why I asked the question before about no. of cylinders, I've already asked about taking out of manual mode. posted_image

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: dplus
Date Posted: October 24, 2010 at 6:00 PM
initially when i said i wasn't getting a signal i was was wrong, i had it set on DC, i am getting a signal at 20v AC. i will try the tach learn right now and see if that works. also since this is a automatic vehicle, does the nuetral safetly switch must be sent on or off? some other info, i have the H1/10 WHT/BLU grounded, should it be connected elsewhere?

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~DPlus




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: October 24, 2010 at 6:05 PM
H1/10 is not used unless you have a Turbo in that Santa Fe or want to remote start the car via a manual trigger.  Don't ground it, just insulate it.

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 24, 2010 at 6:10 PM
Connect the neutral safety switch to either the hand brake wire or the reversing (back-up) light wire, it's an extra safety 'cause each should be grounded at rest.
As Kreg says insulate the blue/white and AGAIN read the instructions.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: dplus
Date Posted: October 24, 2010 at 6:17 PM
okay, so i changed the tach mode from virtual tach to tachometer (menu 3, feature 2, opt3) and insulated H1/10. the results are still the same, remote start error.. 7 blinks.

-------------
~DPlus




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: October 24, 2010 at 6:22 PM
Are you programming with the BitWriter or the remotes?  If you are using the remotes, do the Auto Trans again. Menu 3 Menu Item 1 Option 2.  There was a recent post where it didn't take until several tries....

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 24, 2010 at 6:30 PM
Manual programming is a PITA. One word patience! It took me three installs to get the programming off pat. I'd done Clifford originals for the last 18 years and do them manually by heart. Your one, a Viper Clone, requires me to sit there with book in hand, even rehearse my actions. They even gave wrong instructions on the Bitwriter with ref. to UK models!

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: dplus
Date Posted: October 24, 2010 at 6:36 PM
i got to start, thanks guys... stupid me, i did not set it to automatic... anyhow, next problem now is that it cranks but will not stay on, and it seems that it keeps on trying to crank every couple seconds...

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~DPlus




Posted By: dplus
Date Posted: October 24, 2010 at 6:38 PM
I GOT IT.. THANKS GUYS.. when the engine did not stay on, i had to switch it back to virtual tach mode.. thanks again you guys are the PROS...

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~DPlus




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: October 24, 2010 at 6:51 PM

Excellent!!  The Toyota Lives!!   posted_image

A word of caution.  Most installers feel Virtual Tach mode is unreliable.  It's possible that you did not do a Tach Learn and thats why it didn't work in Tach mode.  If you encounter any issues starting, try switching back to Tach Mode and do the Tach Learn process.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 25, 2010 at 2:55 AM
Oh well back to page one and nos. 1 and 3 of my posts.posted_image

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.





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