Printer Friendly Forum Posts - autopage, mercury mariner 2007

I need some help with my Autopage Remote Starter installation. In the installation manual(https://carmedia1.com/pdf/RSTKE900.pdf) they say so VIOLET wire should be connected to the low current start solenoid
wire of the ignition switch harness, between START CUT RELAY and NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH(see picture).
posted_image

My question is: Do I have START CUT RELAY in my car and if I will connect this wire to the wire around the steering column(not sure yet which one: "Starter Positive Wire (+): Tan/Light Blue" or "Vehicle Ignition Wire (+): WHITE/ orange"), it will be before NSS?

Thank you!
Andrew

A basic answer, the neutral safety switch is only there on auto transmission vehicles. For your purposes the violet goes to the vehicle starter wire, tan/light blue.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thank you Howie,
but do you know if 2007 Mercury mariner has a START CUT RELAY???

Andrew

The starter cut relay would be part of an aftermarket alarm. If you don't have one, simply connect as Howie states. Don't overthink it...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Thank you for quick answer. I have more questions if I can...
Brown wire should be connected to accessory output:

"Brown Wire –Accessory Output (Heater /AC Output)
Connect the BROWN wire to the accessory wire in the vehicle that powers the
climate control system. 7
An accessory wire will show + 12 volts when the ignition switch is turned to the
“ACCESSORY” or “ON” and “RUN” positions, and will show 0 Volts when the
key is turned to the “OFF” and “START” or “CRANK” position. There will often
be more than one accessory wire in the ignition harness. The correct
accessory wire will provide power to the vehicle’s climate control system. Some
vehicles may have separate wires for the blower motor and the air conditioning
compressor. In such cases, it will be necessary to add a relay to power the
second accessory wire. "

Do you know if my car needs a relay?

Andrew

if you have only one ACC wire, then no.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

How I can tell if I have one or two wires???

Test. Q., are you up for this?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hello everybody!!!
Anyone of you is familiar with AutoPage remote Starters systems like C3-RSTKE-900 ??? Here is it's install manual:
https://carmedia1.com/pdf/RSTKE900.pdf

I have some doubts reading this manual like on page 9 - about connector H10, pin #3:

"H10/3 Pink wire – (-) 200mA Programmable Output
2 Steps Unlock Output (Factory default setting)
(See System Feature C – 1 Programming)
The 2 steps unlock feature will work for the most fully electronic door lock circuit. The vehicle must have an electronic door lock switch (not the lock knob or key switch), which locks and unlocks all of vehicle's doors. When wired for this feature, press the disarm (or unlock) button one time will disarm the system and unlock the driver's door only. If, press disarm (or unlock) button two times within 3 seconds, the system will disarm and all doors will unlock.
   Factory Security Disarm Signal Output –
This wire is designed to disarm a factory installed security system. This wire sends a negative (-) 1 seconds pulse upon a remote start and remote door unlocking. Some factory systems must be disarmed to allow remote starting. In most cases, this wire may be connected directly to the factory alarm disarm wire. The correct wire will show negative ground when the key is used to unlock the doors or trunk. This wire is usually found in the kick panel area in the wiring harness coming into the car body from the door.
Start Status (Shock Sensor By-Pass Control) Output–
This wire is designed to by-pass shock sensor module. This wire will supply an output at all times the remote start is operating plus an additional 3 seconds after the remote start unit turn off. "

and page 16, H7 3pin connector:
posted_image

and next pages.

I'm not sure how to interpret it and how to wire it.

Thank you for any help.
Andrew

howie ll wrote:

Test. Q., are you up for this?

Yes!
Where to look for it, in ignition harnes??? there is 17wires.

and0b] wrote:

Hello everybody!!!
Anyone of you is familiar with AutoPage remote Starters systems like C3-RSTKE-900 ??? Here is it's install manual:
https://carmedia1.com/pdf/RSTKE900.pdf

I have some doubts reading this manual like on page 9 - about connector H10, pin #3:

"H10/3 Pink wire – (-) 200mA Programmable Output
2 Steps Unlock Output (Factory default setting)
(See System Feature C – 1 Programming)
The 2 steps unlock feature will work for the most fully electronic door lock circuit. The vehicle must have an electronic door lock switch (not the lock knob or key switch), which locks and unlocks all of vehicle's doors. When wired for this feature, press the disarm (or unlock) button one time will disarm the system and unlock the driver's door only. If, press disarm (or unlock) button two times within 3 seconds, the system will disarm and all doors will unlock.
   Factory Security Disarm Signal Output –
This wire is designed to disarm a factory installed security system. This wire sends a negative (-) 1 seconds pulse upon a remote start and remote door unlocking. Some factory systems must be disarmed to allow remote starting. In most cases, this wire may be connected directly to the factory alarm disarm wire. The correct wire will show negative ground when the key is used to unlock the doors or trunk. This wire is usually found in the kick panel area in the wiring harness coming into the car body from the door.
Start Status (Shock Sensor By-Pass Control) Output–
This wire is designed to by-pass shock sensor module. This wire will supply an output at all times the remote start is operating plus an additional 3 seconds after the remote start unit turn off. "

and page 16, H7 3pin connector:

and next pages.

I'm not sure how to interpret it and how to wire it.

Thank you for any help.
Andrew

To be more specific - how than should I wire door lock/unlock???

Oh follow it up to the ignition switch, there should be only 4 wires they will be thicker than the others and I think it's GREEN/ black on the Mariner.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

This is getting daft this post will break all records if any one else bothers to help. It's going to cost you a lot less in time and damages to have it installed by a pro. Have you even thought about by-passes yet.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

You seem to have done no research on your own vehicle which would be the first stage. Look and test/verify before installing.
Post your email address and I'll send you the spec sheet.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

This was my thought H, sounds as if he has no tech sheet!

I am with you on another statement. "have it installed by a pro"

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howie ll wrote:

You seem to have done no research on your own vehicle which would be the first stage. Look and test/verify before installing.
Post your email address and I'll send you the spec sheet.

I did some research, but if you will not start to do it, you don't know what to research for....

Also, you can research for years and when you will finally get to installation and find two instructions for this same(door locking-see above) without additional explanation you still will confused.

and0b@yahoo.com

Thank you!

Do you really think you will understand flip flock low current lock outputs? set up as neg, i.e green to lock and blue to unlock to the relevant lock/unlock trigger wires in your car.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

P.S. Pro newbies get on the job supervised training after classroom basic knowledge is learned and tested.
Do you even posses a DMM or soldering and heat shrink?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

P.S. Pro newbies get on the job supervised training after classroom basic knowledge is learned and tested.
Do you even posses a DMM or soldering and heat shrink?

Well, firs soldering gun I got when I was 13 and around that time, first time I used analog, first DMM I got maybe 12 years ago. Yes I do have heat shrink.

Andrew

Fine now go to the next page on the agenda, PM me with your email and I'll send you the sheet for your vehicle.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

Do you really think you will understand flip flock low current lock outputs? set up as neg, i.e green to lock and blue to unlock to the relevant lock/unlock trigger wires in your car.

English is my second language but I don't have any problem with understanding tech. mumbo jumbo, specially in writing, until it is not completely encrypted.
I understood English before I was able to talk in English, this is due to large amount of tech. doc. I used to read and translate.

Thanks,
Andrew

I wouldn't have known English was your second language, your command of it is very good but since you haven't given me your email address I have to assume you already have the vehicle diagrammes etc. Hence all your questions so far are moot, it's now 2:00am here and I need my bed.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I'll ask too, do you have a bypass for the car?

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

howie ll wrote:

I wouldn't have known English was your second language, your command of it is very good but since you haven't given me your email address I have to assume you already have the vehicle diagrammes etc. Hence all your questions so far are moot, it's now 2:00am here and I need my bed.

I posted my email few posts earlier, here it is again:

and0b@yahoo.com

Thank you!
Andrew

Mike M2 wrote:

I'll ask too, do you have a bypass for the car?

On order, I should have it in the middle of the week.

Andrew

KarTuneMan wrote:

This was my thought H, sounds as if he has no tech sheet!

I am with you on another statement. "have it installed by a pro"

I want to install it by myself, not because I want to save few $$, just because I want to do it! For this same reason I'm doing most jobs on my cars(brakes, mufflers, struts, shocks, radiators, water pumps, alternators, starters, electric/electronic etc.... - I don't do alignment, transmissions, engines...). I'm programmer - database administrator - I can help you with FoxPro or VB if you need help, but with remote starters I need some help from you. Don't have doubts about, I will do it, you will help me or not, it will work, just matter of time.... I'm Polish, I will do it.

Thanks!
Andrew

howie ll wrote:

I wouldn't have known English was your second language, your command of it is very good but since you haven't given me your email address I have to assume you already have the vehicle diagrammes etc. Hence all your questions so far are moot, it's now 2:00am here and I need my bed.

I have some materials, which I found on the net and I will appreciate for any materials you can email me, but my biggest problem is in this installation manual.
How should I (or anybody who was not in AutoPage training) know which wire control door lock if you have two references to two door locking wires!(see earlier post) First is for electronic door lock switch, with second the don't say anything, so I'm assuming so it is for all other, but does mean so I have to just skip it if I have electronic door lock switch??? How should I connect this wire than?

The whole point is you are the one making your questions more complex, if I started to explain flip-flop lock out puts, multiplex wiring as on your car with resistor and relays required and why we'd have no room for any one else on this site. It's already gone 3 pages and hasn't even started.
If we say use a relay thus, do it don't ask why, work it out when you install it and pretest EVERYTHING otherwise the deal's off and NO ADVICE.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

By the way two types of amateurs make us cringe, industrial electricians who can't think DC, higher currents and relays and IT people who tend to spend all their time criticising the alarm and car software are always tweaking everything and ask too many bloody questions.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

The whole point is you are the one making your questions more complex, if I started to explain flip-flop lock out puts, multiplex wiring as on your car with resistor and relays required and why we'd have no room for any one else on this site. It's already gone 3 pages and hasn't even started.
If we say use a relay thus, do it don't ask why, work it out when you install it and pretest EVERYTHING otherwise the deal's off and NO ADVICE.

Thank you Howard! I got wiring info, it will help a lot, I now know, I have only one accessory wire.
But I still don't know which option should I use to lock/unlock door lock.

Andrew

howie ll wrote:

By the way two types of amateurs make us cringe, industrial electricians who can't think DC, higher currents and relays and IT people who tend to spend all their time criticising the alarm and car software are always tweaking everything and ask too many bloody questions.

Well...., we would have much less questions and theses questions would be much less bloody if people who are writing manuals would be more open minded, more experienced and more versatile. I know, theses install manuals are for install technicians but I bet they have doubts too reading this manual. More info never hurt.

Andrew

AGREED!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

So, can someone help me with this door lock/unlock switch connection????

Andrew

You said you were good enough, go for it.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

You said you were good enough, go for it.

Well....
Thank you very much, you are very helpfull.....

Andrew

thank you for this post, i found it quite amusing.

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do it right the first time....less warranty work=more money!:)

Interestingly, the original poster asked Kreg some questions about by-passes and I thought from the phrasing, "hello this one's Russian" (or generalised Eastern European, Russians would say "like armoured Range Rover" rather than "do you like my armoured Range Rover".
On this post he seems to have run his questions through a translation programme", unfortunately it had rather a stubborn stupid side to it, as in "I've done a soldering course and I won't listen".
posted_image

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.