1998 vw passat wagon, viper 5901

I'm getting ready to install a Viper 5901 in my 98 Passat Wagon. I was curious if there is a way to replace one of my gas actuators on the rear hatch with a power one and gain the ability to open the rear hatch at the push of a button? Something to this effect anyways.

I had another question, the factory system can roll up and down the windows, so do I need to add the window module to do this with the alarm still?

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/2199.html

Are there any other wires I need to know. I think I bought a tech sheet from somewhere once...I have to find it on my server I think it's there.

You can close the windows by extending the time on the lock wire (comfort close setting). You won't be able to roll them down because this will unlock the vehicle as well. forget about going to the motor wires with a window closer the factory window modules bolt right onto the motors, you can't get at the motor wires.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks Howie,

I had another question, I was marking all the wires in the car that I'm going to wire to, I find a lot of conflicting info on the door trigger wire? But I believe it's going to the CCM module that's under the carpet, more of the wire charts list it as a blue/grey wire. There seems to be about 4 blue/grey wires, is there one wire to each door then? I saw someone mention it could be tapped in the door as well though? Seeing as I have to get in there for the locks anyways maybe I could do it there.

Ok, I think I understand how to test it now, and there may be 4 wires but I think they are all linked. But when the door is opened should so grounded, and when closed should show 12v. So I think I do have the right wire. Sorry for asking the question I should of looked into it a bit more!

I think they are separated and may need to be dioded together but you're right about taking everything from the CCM module.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

The tech sheets I have said they were shared, but I'll look into it. They may not be, it also said that the parking lights were a split design but it's actually a single wire it seems.

There was actually a BROWN / white wire in a light blue plug in the kick panel (the other blue plugs were a darker blue) this wire is a shared trigger.

I'm trying to find a tach wire, There is no green wire, I tried testing the injector plugs but they were both pretty much the same and showed ~13 volts. There are 4 wires on my coil packs, 2 of them are ground, I know that pin 3 on them is the signal wire from the ecu, is this the one I should use?

Another strange thing, after hooking up the remote start wires, and then shutting my door and pressing the lock key my interior dome lights and what not flash pretty rapidly? I'm guessing it may be because the alarm brain doesn't have power yet? My guess anyways lol but was interesting... I don't want to finish hooking up power until I have the tach wire installed.

I found a GREEN/ blue wire on the back for the gauge cluster that shows ~6.5-7.5 volts supposedly this is the tach wire but it does not seem to change much with RPM's?

Looks like that was the tach wire, it learned it anyways. I can't really test the remote start tonight as it's late and I don't think the neighbors would like me going through a bunch of menu's and hearing 100 chirps. Everything seems to of gone smoothly though :) I do need to add the pulse button to turn remote start on inside the car though. Oh and I also need to hook up the rear defogger.

Your tach colour correct, A/Vox agrees with you on door trigger, Directwire gives a different colour ??? If it works don't worry!
No info on rear defog by either, tell me when you're ready and I'll tell you how, simply you will relay interrupt the rear defog "hot when switched on" wire using a timed aux output.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yeah someone on another forum was telling me about it, said the white wire? I'm not sure if it's white, but anyways do I relay it to ground or 12v? You said hot wire so I'm guessing 12v. He said the trigger has to be latched? Not exactly sure what that means.

Remote start works perfectly as well! So I may try and get the defogger working today as well since it seems I may have more time today then I thought.

My windows roll up or down if I hold lock or unlock to ground, is there anyway to use this to make an AUX roll up/down function without buying the window module?

Definitely a white wire originating at the rear defogger switch.
Wire as follows using a relay:-
Aux output timed (that's what latching means) for say 10 minutes to 85,
12volt + constant fused at 30amps to 86 and 87,
Cut the white wire, switch side to 87a and window side to 30.

OR Just leave the switch on the night before.

The windows, just programme your unit for comfort close. To lower the windows you will be unlocking the vehicle so that's a no-no!
The alternative is to use another aux, leave on default (i.e. hold button for 1.5 seconds before it starts), release button at your vent position, join to lock wire.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Well I'm not sure leaving the switch in would work because it's not a traditional switch, it's just a push button, at least that's what it seems like.

Turn on the ignition, turn on the defogger switch, turn off the ignition and remove the key, replace key and turn on the ignition, see if it's still illuminated, that's your answer. If so you don't need to wire up the rear defogger especially.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Doesn't look like it stays on.

I was going to use the defogger output from the alarm brain.

My relay doesn't have an 87 and 87a.

Theres, 30, 86, 87 and 85. So would Power go to 87 and 30, then... Actually you have like 5 connections there, this relay has 4 connections? Do I need a different relay?

No wire as before, simply connect the white to30. Always buy 5 pins, they give you more choice, also, the first method prevents any feedback if that defogger is processor controlled, it's inherently a safer method.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I may have a 5 pin relay around somewhere. Will have to take a look. I removed a 30amp relay from my daytime running light circuit, believe it's 5 pin so I could probably use that.

It will most likely do no damage, I'm just playing safe by sending NOTHING back to the processor.
A 4 wire acts as a switch, a 5 wire as as a CHANGEOVER switch, hence when inert, 30 and 87a are joined as normal, when activated, they are disconnected and 87 is joined to 30.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Well I have this relay, it's 6 pins

80| 30 |M
    87a
K| 86

Blah that first pin is 85, not 80.

So the pins are labled, 85,30,M,87a,K,86

Ok I'm having an issue with the alarm, everything works normal except that when I remote start it after it's been sitting a while the factory alarm (horn honking) goes off. I think there might be a way to vag-com into the system to disable the factory alarm but I have to look into it more. Right now it's quite annoying because I remote start it at 6 in the morning and the horn starts going off! I have to unlock the door first I guess as that's what disables the factory alarm?

Yes. if VAG com succeeds please let me know, or disable it physically by cutting the siren lead or physically removing the siren, cut the indicator leads and one of the 3 ultrasonic leads. That's what I have to do on MklV Golfs.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Don't think mine has ultrasonic, it's just a basic door trigger system.

Doesn't look like it's possible to disable the alarm in software, kind of stupid really. So I'm replacing my sunroof and have all the interior panels off in the back atm, so I figure I might as well disconnect that factory siren. Hopefully the alarm going off doesn't effect anything else?