viper 5902 in a 2007 rav4

I've ordered a Viper 5902 and while waiting for it to come in the mail I'm doing a bit of research to hopefully make the install go smoothly. Just to explain my level of experience, I've installed 4 DEI alarms so far in a '98 Tacoma, '99 Miata, '00 Civic, a '00 CR-V including features like remote start, trunk pop, and all the typical sensors etc... This alarm will be going into an '07 RAV4 Sport without an immobilizer (I was surprised at no immobilizer) or factory alarm but with factory keyless entry.

I will be soldering all connections, using heat shrink where possible, testing wires with a digital multimeter, using car wiring diagrams from here, code systems, and bulldog security, and I'll be using the 5901 install manual as it is the same as the 5902 from what I understand.

I'll be sure to search before posting questions but already it seems I have questions that I can't find answers for from a search alone.

My first question (and I'm sure there will be more to come) is what to do with the factory keyless entry system. My concern is that it has an auto lock feature that locks the doors if they are unlocked by the factory remote and at least one door isn't opened within 30 seconds. It is also set to require a double pulse to unlock the passenger doors which I don't care for. So, can I just ignore this factory system and leave it completely intact since I won't be using the factory remotes any longer or do I have to disable it some how because it might autolock the doors in some circumstances.

Most Toyotas turn off the Factory Keyless Remotes when the engine is running.  Test this by starting the RAV4 with the key and then trying to lock or unlock with a Factory FOB.  When you install the Viper and remote start the RAV4, you will need the Vipers remote transmitter to unlock the doors ( or use the key ).   While the Factory FOBs will cause the RAV4 to relock if no door is opened in a certain time, when you unlock with the Viper FOB, the doors will not relock.

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Soldering is fun!

I just ran out and checked, you're exactly right Kreg, the factory keyless entry does not work once the car is running. Good to know. So is it safe to say that if I'm only using the Viper remote that I won't have any issues leaving the factory keyless entry hooked up? Aside from the auto lock issue, would there be any other reason to disconnect it or incompatibility between it and the Viper?
Thanks.

No issues.  The factory FOB will be un-affected by the Viper install and still function normally.  Most customers just put it away because the Viper FOB does everything and at a greater range.  Less to carry around.

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Soldering is fun!

Great, thank you for the help. I'll just ignore the factory keyless entry, install the Viper 5902 as if it's not there, and pack the factory remotes away.

Next question if you guys don't mind.

Still mapping out what RAV4 wires will go to the Viper 5902.

I'm trying to figure out which starter wire to cut for H3/4 & H3/5 (starter kill input & output).

According to the FSM wiring diagram there is a yellow & a white starter wire. The yellow wire goes the switch side of the starter solenoid (87) to power the starter and the white wire goes to the field coil side of the starter solenoid (85) to power the coil that closes the switch. So do I put the Viper's onboard starter kill relay in line with the yellow one or the white one? Seems like they would both have the same effect.
Thanks

You can cut either one and run it thru the DEI alarm to create a starter kill. You will need to add a relay to energize the other starter wire during remote start unless the DEI has an extra flex relay you can use...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

First off, I'm sorry for the capital lock text below, I've cut the below info from an excel file where I'm planning my wiring. In MikeM2's post he suggested that I need an extra relay to energize the starter during remote start but I'm not sure I understand why.

Can you guys please let me know if the following wiring looks correct for the Viper 5902 H3 heavy gauge remote start 10 pin plug? Again this is for an '07 RAV4

Thanks

REMOTE START (H-3) 10 PIN PLUG:
                         
H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT     TO RAV$ WHITE (+) [IGN 1] AT IGNITION WIRE HARNESS. NOTE: POWERS IGNITION & SECURITY SYSTEM

H3/2 RED / WHITE     (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87   TO RAV4 BLUE (+) [BATTERY] AT IGNITION WIRE HARNESS. NOTE: INPUT FOR H3/7 OUTPUT

H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT     TO RAV4 RED (+) [ACC 1] AT IGNITION WIRE HARNESS. NOTE: TO ACC THAT POWES CLIMATE CONTROL

H3/4 VIOLET     (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF STARTER KILL) TO RAV4 WHITE (+) [STARTER 1] AT IGNITION WIRE HARNESS. NOTE: STARTER SIDE OF CUT STARTER WIRE

H3/5 GREEN     (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF STARTER KILL) TO RAV4 WHITE (+) [STARTER 1] AT IGNITION WIRE HARNESS. NOTE: KEY SIDE OF CUT STARTER WIRE

H3/6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT TO RAV4 BLUE (+) [BATTERY] AT IGNITION WIRE HARNESS. NOTE: POLARITY FEED FOR IGNITION 1 RELAY

H3/7 PINK/WHITE     (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT TO RAV4 PINK (+) [IGN 2] AT     IGNITION WIRE HARNESS. NOTE: CURRENTLY IGN 2 BUT CAN BE ACC 2 OR STARTER 2

H3/8 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87a KEY SIDE OF FLEX RELAY (VIPER WIRE NOT USED)

H3/9 RED / BLACK     (+) FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY / STARTER INPUT TO RAV4 BLUE (+) [BATTERY] AT IGNITION WIRE HARNESS     

H3/10     EMPTY (NOT USED)

OK, you are connecting the white starter wire but what about the yellow one? Where they both have the same effect for starter kill but both must be energized for remote start.

It seems you have another flex relay open, use that. Connect the pink/black to the yellow starter wire and be sure to program accordingly.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

I wanted to respond to this earlier but I didn't have time. I've done some of these cars; I'll throw a few comments on here:

1. The tech sheets from the alarm companies will have you running wires all over the car and making a mess. Here's where I go for my wires on that car:

1A: The harness going up the steering column has not only all your ignition wires, but more: horn, negative parking lights, and door trigger. You'll notice there's an illumination ring around the key cylinder...that light comes on when any of the five doors are opened; use that as your door trigger.

1B: Tach at the OBDII plug below the fuse box.

1C: Brake is blue at the fuse box; easier than going to the pedal, and less chance for the wire to get tangled on the pedal. Various blue wires at the fuse box; test until you find the right one.

1D: Doorlocks in the harness in the kick panel that comes in through the door.

So....you'll end up with a nice clean install, going to only four locations in the entire car.

2. Your ignition wiring above looks MOSTLY right. The only two things I see are:

2A: As Mike said, how about the second starter wire? If I'm correct about the Viper, you should be able to connect the pink/black flex wire to it, and then go into programming and program it to act as a starter output.

(You only need to interrupt ONE of the Toyota's starter wires to perform anti-grind/starter kill; I recommend doing the interrupt with the Viper green and purple on the thicker of the two Toyota starter wires.....connect the pink/black directly to the thinner starter wire without interrupting it.)

2B: The accessory wire in that car powers the radio, power mirrors, cigarette lighter, and other non-essentials. If it were my car, I'd prefer to keep the radio off during remote start, so you don't disturb the neighbors, and so you don't lose song on the CD your were listening to when you parked. Just my opinion...go ahead and hook it up if you prefer. But anyway, the HVAC system on Toyotas is powered by one of the two ignition wires.

3. Just like the others said, ignore the factory keyless entry and leave it alone; it won't hurt anything. I've seen some people like to remove the batteries from the OEM remote so you can't trigger the aftermarket alarm by accident.

If it were my car, I'd store the OEM remote keys until resale time, and just use the valet key, or get some nice non-transponder, OEM keys with logo made at the Toyota dealer.

4. You were asking about that auto-relock feature from Toyota. The Viper won't do that by default, but it is in the menu as a programming option. Up to you.

5. You said you'd prefer to unlock all five doors at the same time, instead of driver's priority, right?

The quickest and easiest way will be to just connect the Viper's green and blue wires to the car as normal, then go and program the Viper for double-pulse unlock. Also, program the Viper's doorlock pulses for 0.4 seconds instead of 0.8; it'll open the passenger doors faster this way.

If you really wanted to get fancy, you could do something different: First, find the wire in the kick panel that comes from the unlock switch on the driver's door panel.

Then, take the Viper's blue unlock wire, and split it with two diodes. Connect one diode to the unlock-switch wire you just found, and connect the other diode to the key-cylinder-unlock wire that's listed on the tech sheet.

This will allow the Viper to unlock all five doors on a single pulse, which allows your passengers to enter the car a little more quickly.

There's only one other thing I can think of I'd do if it were my personal car and I had the extra time.......

Turn on the hazards and listen for the factory flasher clicking on and off. When you locate it, look for the negative hazard flasher there.

If you connect your GREEN/ black disarm and GREEN / WHITE rearm wires to the hazards, you'll get flashes when you lock and unlock, similar to (but not exactly like) the factory setup. It'll also flash at remote start startup and shutdown.

If you're not going to be using the Viper's horn or dome supervision output, you could take advantage of either of those to flash the hazards if the alarm is triggered.......

If using domelight supervision wire: Connect to hazards; program Viper for "ignition controlled domelight off"

If using horn wire: Connect to hazards; program for your choice of horn-honk with lock/unlock on or off. (Note: you could program it for horn honk on with locks, then DON'T connect your arm/disarm wires......now you'll have hazard flash on lock, unlock, alarm trigger, but NOT with remote start.)

First of all, you guys are great and this forum is great. I really appreciate all the help you guys are all offering.
Special thanks to Chris for all the extra suggestions aside from the remote start that I haven’t even touched on yet; I’ll be using a lot of those suggestions. I realize that must have taken quite a bit of your time. Thank you.

Chris Luongo wrote:

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2 Your ignition wiring above looks MOSTLY right. The only two things I see are:

2A: As Mike said, how about the second starter wire? If I'm correct about the Viper, you should be able to connect the pink/black flex wire to it, and then go into programming and program it to act as a starter output.

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   Both Chris and Mike have suggested that I need to power both the starter 1 (white) and starter 2 (yellow) wires for remote start which makes sense.
   I've put the starter kill relay in line with the white starter wire and I'm assuming that same relay not only kills the starter when necessary but also provides power to it during remote start.
   For the starter 2 wire (yellow) that also requires power for remote start, you are both suggesting that I hook up the Viper's H3/8 pink/balck wire to the yellow starter wire and reprogram H3/8 to be a starter out.
   I have never reprogrammed a flex relay. The 5902 quick reference chart calls H3/8 (pink/black) "(+) flex relay input 87a key side (if required) of flex relay". Can this input be programmed as a starter output? If so, do I need a bitwriter? I've only done basic programming on DEI units using the remote in the past.

Chris Luongo wrote:

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The HVAC system on Toyotas is powered by one of the two ignition wires.

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Great to know, HVAC was my main reason for hooking up the Acc out. I’ll ask my wife what she prefers on this one as it’s her car. Good to know the difference. Thanks

Chris Luongo wrote:

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5. You said you'd prefer to unlock all five doors at the same time, instead of driver's priority, right?
The quickest and easiest way will be to just connect the Viper's green and blue wires to the car as normal, then go and program the Viper for double-pulse unlock. Also, program the Viper's doorlock pulses for 0.4 seconds instead of 0.8; it'll open the passenger doors faster this way.
   If you really wanted to get fancy, you could do something different: First, find the wire in the kick panel that comes from the unlock switch on the driver's door panel.
   Then, take the Viper's blue unlock wire, and split it with two diodes. Connect one diode to the unlock-switch wire you just found, and connect the other diode to the key-cylinder-unlock wire that's listed on the tech sheet.
   This will allow the Viper to unlock all five doors on a single pulse, which allows your passengers to enter the car a little more quickly.

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I’d love to have all the doors open on a single pulse. Just to be sure, since the door lock/unlock outputs are 500mA they don’t need any external relays right? I’m not sure I understand why to unlock all doors at once I need a pulse going to both the unlock in the driver’s key cylinder and door switch? Is this because the cylinder unlocks the drivers door and the door unlock switch unlocks the rest of the doors? And as for locking, that’s all done with one pulse just by hooking the RAV4 light blue lock wire in the kick panel to the Viper’s green wire right?

Chris Luongo wrote:

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Turn on the hazards and listen for the factory flasher clicking on and off. When you locate it, look for the negative hazard flasher there.
    If you connect your GREEN/ black disarm and GREEN / WHITE rearm wires to the hazards, you'll get flashes when you lock and unlock, similar to (but not exactly like) the factory setup. It'll also flash at remote start startup and shutdown.

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   So H2/1 light GREEN/ black (OEM alarm disarm output) would just pulse the hazards to flash on disarm and H2/3 GREEN / WHITE (OEM alarm arm output) would do the same upon arming, correct?
   Isn’t there a parking light output from H1/11 that does this? What would the difference be? If I recall, the parking lights will flash when you arm and disarm the car using the parking light output and they stay lit when the car is remote started or in short stop mode.

Chris Luongo wrote:

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If you're not going to be using the Viper's horn or dome supervision output, you could take advantage of either of those to flash the hazards if the alarm is triggered.......

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I will be using the dome light supervision; I just didn’t include that wiring in my post above since I just wanted to iron out what wires I needed for remote start first. Since we’re on the subject, that one is H1/9 BLACK/ white and is only a 200mA output so it will require a relay to properly ground the circuit right?

Here is the Viper 5902 installation sheet.

Kreg 357 PM'd me on this..Chris and Mike don't want to catch the Gods out but surely you mean PINK/WHITE not pink/black.
The hazards, we always wire the white to the hazards in Europe (or pos to GREEN/ black and GREEN/ YELLOW) 'cause everywhere but North America uses the AMBER lights as direction indicators, not white front and red rear because they are much easier to spot, thus on late Toyotas, neg feed to the neg wire at the hazard switch. Though I do like Chris's other idea there.
Dome lights: again late Toyotas, the switched neg side to the dome light has an off delay but shuts down immediately on locking, thus I go there (2 or 3 wire plug at the fusebox), also that way no dome supervision required.
Any thoughts on key sense?
Also on many Euro cars you can shut off the auto locking, I hate that.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Also a thought on ignition key illumination, I'm sure I looked at that ages ago, can't remember what vehicle but I'm sure it was Japanese, that illumination only worked off the driver's door also on that vehicle it stayed on after the door was closed till the ignition was engaged. After that I never tested it again.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hello Howie, thanks for the reply. Much appreciated. A quick question or two in order to clarify if you don’t mind.

howie ll wrote:

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Chris and Mike don't want to catch the Gods out but surely you mean PINK/WHITE not pink/black.

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Were you suggesting that I use the H2/11 pink/white wire (flex relay control output) for Starter 2 or just assuming that that is what Chris and Mike must have intended? I ask because prior to your post it was suggested to me in a PM that I use H2/13 violet (200mA starter output) to provide power to Starter 2. I am very new at this but based on the names of the two options it seems that H2/13 (200mA starter output) would be the way to go. Could you or someone please clarify for me whether the flex relay control output would be preferable over the 200mA starter output and why.

Thanks,
          Justin

Yes, the key cylinder unlock wire will only unlock the drivers door on the first pulse. A second pulse afterwards will unlock the rest, thus a double pulse is needed. A suggestion, connect the 2nd unlock blue wire together with the unlock blue wire, then both to the unlock cylinder wire. This way if you decide down the road you want 2 stage unlock it's already wired and wll you need to is turn off the double pulse unlock in programming.

Howie you are right. I don't do many DEI combo units and am not real familiar with the flex wiring. It seems there is only one flex relay on the unit and it is being used for the second ignition. The pink/black is actually an input for the pink/white at rest, correct(kinda silly to have)? If so, you won't need the pink/black at all and you will definately need another ralay to control the second starter wire. Howie's also right about the supervision, don't bother because the lock control will turn it on for you already.

Howie, American Toyota's light the key cylinder on all doors....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Okay, so it seems an external relay will definitely be necessary to power Starter 2.

Should I use the H2/11 pink/white wire (200mA flex relay control output) or the H2/13 violet (200mA starter output) to trigger the external relay that will provide power to Starter 2.

It's early in the morning for me but and I've never actually seen a 5*** series DEI unit. I was "promised" one to play with 2 years ago, all I know about them is what I see here!
Check your install guide, but I believe all you have to do is to power up the red, RED / white and RED / black then programme it for second starter rather than second ignition.
Failing that there's add relay # 2! Running the violet as one output and the green as another is a crock of s***!
They are actually 87a (violet) and 30 (green) terminals of the SAME internal relay which governs starter cut and anti-grind.
The comment about key switch illumination, I stand corrected!
You won't need dome supervision on this vehicle or most Hondas or BMWs.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

There should be a thin purple wire to run the external relay. It is a ground out during crank....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Mike M2 wrote:

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There should be a thin purple wire to run the external relay. It is a ground out during crank....

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Thanks Mike, that's just what I was looking for.

    Well guys, it looks like I’ve finally completed my wiring chart thanks to you all.
I’m one of those people who research things to death so I hopefully don’t make a mistake. This should go a long way in helping with a smooth install when the alarm arrives.

There are a few things that I have concerns about although I think I have it all right based on a ton of searching and all of your input.

For anyone who wouldn’t mind looking over the chart to see if everything looks right, please pay special attention to the few connections I am the least sure about which are:

-H1/4 Parking light flash isolation wire (pin 87 of onboard relay) – I’m fairly certain this
   isn’t needed.

-H1/8 Door trigger (-) input – There was talk of using the ignition key lamp but I’m not
            sure that was ever verified and I’m not sure how it would work.

-H1/9 Dome supervision output – Looks like a few of you have suggested that the lock
          control will turn on the dome light so this isn’t needed.

-H1/10 Remote start/turbo timer activation input – Again I’m fairly sure this isn’t needed.

-H2/13 200mA starter output – This one took a bit of discussion with you all to figure out
     and it is what I think we have settled on to power Starter 2

I hope this image is large enough to see easily.

Man, I wish I could edit so I could replace the last image. I think I've found a way to make the chart a little bit larger. Hopefully this is easier to read.


If not, here it is in a link:

https://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb92/corrado007/car%20and%20bike%20forum%20pics/0f7fd53a.jpg

Wow, very impressive! I can't see a single error on there.

Only three comments to add....

1. Your note about the thick pink/white, I'm not 100% sure what you meant. When you go to test the wire in the car, you'll find that it has power in both the Run and Start key positions....therefore you'll want to leave the Viper programming as default, Ignition 2 output setting. I think you know this, just making sure.

2. Yes, the car's domelight will come on when the doors are unlocked. The only catch that it will NOT come on during unlock if the remote starter is running. Never had a complaint from a customer about this. But that's the way Toyotas (and most other cars) are---having the ignition on kills any factory domelight delay.

If you want to simulate how this would be in real life without even beginning your install, just go out to the car with two keys and do the following test:

2A: Open a window to be safe, close all doors.

2B: Insert a key in the exterior of the driver's door and turn it back and forth to work the locks. Observe how the domelight operates. The Viper will be simply triggering the same wires you're operating by turning the key, so the end result will be the same.

2C: Take your second key, start the car and leave it running. Use the other key and put it in the door and repeat 2B. Notice that the domelight doesn't come on anymore.

3. I can tell you're a little doubtful about using the key cylinder illumination ring as a door trigger.

Here's a test you can do without even taking the car apart:

3A: Roll down a window so you can't get locked out.

3B: To eliminate the domelight delay and save time, insert the ignition key and turn it on. (You can skip this step if you don't mind standing around and waiting for the domelight to time out on its own.)

3C: Walk around the car and open each of the five doors (including the rear gate) one at a time. You'll see that opening any combination of door(s) will light up the key cylinder....it's wired up exactly like the domelight.

P.S. There's another option. If you look at the face of the fusebox, there's a small plug with I think maybe four wires in it; it's pretty plain to see that these wires run upward and to the left. That's the harness that goes up to the headliner; one of those wires is negative-trigger domelight. You can use that as your door trigger too if you want.

Chris Luongo wrote:

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Wow, very impressive! I can't see a single error on there.

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Thank you Chris for looking over that entire chart. The credit goes to those of you who helped out though; I have little experience with this stuff so I couldn't have done it without you guys.

Chris Luongo wrote:

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Your note about the thick pink/white, I'm not 100% sure what you meant. When you go to test the wire in the car, you'll find that it has power in both the Run and Start key positions....therefore you'll want to leave the Viper programming as default, Ignition 2 output setting. I think you know this, just making sure.

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Yeah, I know that now but thanks for checking. That was a note that I wrote early on to remind me it's a flex relay. I should probably take that out since it's going to stay IGN 2.

Chris Luongo wrote:

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Yes, the car's domelight will come on when the doors are unlocked. The only catch that it will NOT come on during unlock if the remote starter is running. Never had a complaint from a customer about this. But that's the way Toyotas (and most other cars) are---having the ignition on kills any factory domelight delay.

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Glad you pointed that out, I may have to toss in another relay to hook up the dome supervision after all then. Being that it's my wife's car, she may want to be able to see in the car if it's dark out and she remote started it. I'll have to ask her.

Chris Luongo wrote:

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I can tell you're a little doubtful about using the key cylinder illumination ring as a door trigger.

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It's not that I don't think it'll work, I'm just not sure how to hook it up. Looks like there's a grey and a pink wire that power that ring; would I just test to see which one is common to ground when the key cylinder light is on and use that as my (-) door trigger?

Actually Corrado, the main lessen here is what Chris wrote in his last post about checking.
Those tests Chris was mentioning are the sort of things us pros do without thinking. Or should.
Half your questions would have vanished if you would have done some physical tests on the vehicle.
Ref the dome light.
!) Use an aux output to the dome light trigger wire (that's the one Chris mentioned in his last post and I mentioned in an earlier post, although neither one of us can remember how many wires, between 2 and 4).
Or I believe there's a spare status output wire (GWR), in line diode, 1N4004, band towards alarm, feed to a relay, 85, constant live fused at 3 amps to 86, ground to 87 and that domelight wire to 30. That will get round your domelight question.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Excellent prep and  write up!   The install should go very well.  In the Notes space, at the end of the "Tach" row, add the comment "Change Menu 3, Menu Item 2 to Option 4".

Just don't give the wife too many options / choices.  If she finds out you have some unused Aux Outputs she'll want the rear defroster, the window roll-ups, window venting...... 

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Soldering is fun!

Kreg that was quite hilarious, made me thankful for being divorced then I realised how many freebie jobs I'd done on girl friends cars since!
The silliest was a Maxima in the mid 90s with power seats when the ex and the girlfriend both 5'4" and me 6'+, I had to use an aux to roll the chair back after either had driven it!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

On a more serious note, for general interest it seems that tach when it's on the OBD (aka data connector) is ALWAYS pin 9. That is over to one side (OBDs are all 18 pin.)
This applies to Toyotas and post 2001 BMWs as far as I'm aware.
Is there a readily accessible chart showing ALL processor pin outs for processors and fuse boxes?
It would make our jobs so simple.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

[

Chris Luongo wrote:

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I can tell you're a little doubtful about using the key cylinder illumination ring as a door trigger.

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It's not that I don't think it'll work, I'm just not sure how to hook it up. Looks like there's a grey and a pink wire that power that ring; would I just test to see which one is common to ground when the key cylinder light is on and use that as my (-) door trigger?

[/QUOTE]

Of the two, one will be 12volts always and one will be 12volts/light off-ground/light on.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

I’m sorry for writing a novel here...

howie ll wrote:

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Actually Corrado, the main lessen here is what Chris wrote in his last post about checking.
Those tests Chris was mentioning are the sort of things us pros do without thinking. Or should.
Half your questions would have vanished if you would have done some physical tests on the vehicle.

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You’re absolutely right Howie, I suppose it’s my very limited experience with this stuff that prevented me from thinking of these tests though. What’s second nature to some of you, unfortunately doesn’t always present itself as obvious to me yet. Thankfully you guys are willing to teach me.

howie ll wrote:

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Ref the dome light.
!) Use an aux output to the dome light trigger wire (that's the one Chris mentioned in his last post and I mentioned in an earlier post, although neither one of us can remember how many wires, between 2 and 4).

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I’m afraid I’m a little lost on this one. I assume this is in reference to my wanting a dome light upon unlocking even while the car is remote started but I don’t understand how an aux output would achieve this. I suppose it must be a bit over my head.

howie ll wrote:

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Or I believe there's a spare status output wire (GWR), in line diode, 1N4004, band towards alarm, feed to a relay, 85, constant live fused at 3 amps to 86, ground to 87 and that domelight wire to 30. That will get round your domelight question.

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And Howie, I’m not at all trying to be argumentative but rather trying to understand these concepts so bear with me here. It seems to me that if I use H2/10 Dark Blue (-) 200mA Status Output wire the dome light would remain on the entire time any time the vehicle is running on remote start and anytime the vehicle is left in short stop/pit stop mode. I think this because I assume that this status wire would provide a constant ground signal any time the car is running without the key as this output can be used to activate a bypass module or power the key sense wire. Perhaps you’re referring to a different output?

Why would I not just use the H1/9 BLACK/ White (-) 200mA Dome light supervision output with a relay in the same way you suggested above in your quote? Or is this the output you were referring to? Does this output provide a timed, latched signal to the dome light relay upon disarming even when the car is remote started and running? That's what I would be looking for I think.

kreg357 wrote:

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Excellent prep and write up!   The install should go very well. In the Notes space, at the end of the "Tach" row, add the comment "Change Menu 3, Menu Item 2 to Option 4".
Just don't give the wife too many options / choices. If she finds out you have some unused Aux Outputs she'll want the rear defroster, the window roll-ups, window venting......

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Hey Kreg, I’m really glad you pointed out the need to reprogram the unit to tachometer from its default virtual tach; I could just see myself trying to figure out why it has such a hard time remote starting if at all. I’ve just now added that into the notes. Thanks. And as for the rear defogger, thankfully it hardly ever gets cold enough here to really need it but I hear you buddy; I’ll keep the fact that there are unused Aux outputs to my self.

Mike M2 wrote:

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Chris Luongo wrote:

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I can tell you're a little doubtful about using the key cylinder illumination ring as a door trigger.

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corrado007 wrote:

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It's not that I don't think it'll work, I'm just not sure how to hook it up. Looks like there's a grey and a pink wire that power that ring; would I just test to see which one is common to ground when the key cylinder light is on and use that as my (-) door trigger?

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Mike M2 wrote:
Of the two, one will be 12volts always and one will be 12volts/light off-ground/light on.

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So would I just use the (+) door trigger input to the one that’s always 12V when the key cylinder light is on? Or does that side see 12V constant and I need to then use the (-) door trigger and somehow use the ground/light on signal while isolating the 12V light/off from the (-) door trigger wire to the 5902 module?

You use the - green trigger on this car, you are looking either at the fuse box plug (my favourite) or the ign switch illumination for a wire that sits on ground when the door is open and goes to open circuit when the door is closed and the dome light shuts off.
Yes use domelight supervision if the dome light situation worries you.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

You use the - green trigger on this car, you are looking either at the fuse box plug (my favourite) or the ign switch illumination for a wire that sits on ground when the door is open and goes to open circuit when the door is closed and the dome light shuts off.
Yes use domelight supervision if the dome light situation worries you but what I suggested is a lot simpler.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok, 4 pages and you haven't even turned a screw!

Time to stop over thinking it and get to work......

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

howie ll wrote:

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You use the - green trigger on this car, you are looking either at the fuse box plug (my favourite) or the ign switch illumination for a wire that sits on ground when the door is open and goes to open circuit when the door is closed and the dome light shuts off.
Yes use domelight supervision if the dome light situation worries you but what I suggested is a lot simpler.

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Howie, when the light shuts off it will go to 12volts not open.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Yes this time you can scream at me, I forget to add I always check dome this one and trunk with the plug disconnected.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

And I believe I've also commented on too much talk and questions, you see Mike and I see a pattern here.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Mike M2 wrote:

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Ok, 4 pages and you haven't even turned a screw!

Time to stop over thinking it and get to work......

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howie ll wrote:

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And I believe I've also commented on too much talk and questions, you see Mike and I see a pattern here.

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Alright, fair enough guys, I'll stop with the questions for now. Trust me, I would love to roll up my sleeves and put all this theory into practice but the silly thing hasn't arrived in the mail yet. I have no doubt there will be a another question or two once I'm all tangled up in wires but for now I think you guys have enabled my OCD enough.    
I do tend to over think things Mike, you should see all the diagrams, manuals, and charts I've got piled on my desk for this one install.

Nothing wrong with crib sheets, I always use them when working on something new to me.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hey guys,
     Just wanted to thank you all for your help. I ended up installing the 5902 yesterday and today. It took me quite a while but it went perfect. Remote start, alarm and everything else work great.
     I was having a problem with the drivers door not locking consistently before the install when using the factory keyless entry or the door switch and I hoped (but doubted) that would go away with the install and of course it didn't . I did a bit of searching and it looks like a somewhat common problem on RAV4s to have the driver's door lock actuator go out. I put a DMM up to the motor wires inside the door and they receive a pulse when the other doors lock and unlock but no movement. I guess I'll pull it out tomorrow and see if it can be taken apart and cleaned or if it's just dead.
Anyway, at least the install with smooth. Again, I really appreciate all your help guys. Couldn't have done it with out you all.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Well Done!  Research and planning are the keys to a successful install.

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Soldering is fun!