ford door locks and alarm

I'm new to this forum, so I hope I can get some information here. I know there are some smart people out there that can help me figure out what's going on.
I have a 1997 Ford E-150 Mark III conversion van that I've spent the last year restoring and updating with new electronics. Here's my problem. I purchased a Camco RS-750 alarm system, which is the same as a CX2300 series Carvox and probably a few others with different names. I'm about to stab myself in the heart because of the amount of anger this install has caused me. First of all, the translation into English isn't very good. It takes a fairly good amount of "what to they mean by that" to try and figure out. On the first install the parking lights didn't work, the program functions wouldn't hold in memory, there was no (-) output for the dome light supervision circuit and other things would pop up, when I tried workarounds for the things that didn't work. I finally called the supplier an asked if he would sell me another control module. He said he would send me another whole unit if I uninstalled everything and sent it back to him. Well, you people know how much of a royal pain that would be to untape, unsolder and remove everything. I told him I would buy another control module if he would send it. He did and I installed it. I was in the process of testing all of the functions and everything was working when my interior door lock switches stop working. Lock or unlock, it didn't matter, no response. This Van has a Keyless Entry module which is mounted on the outside wall behind the drivers seat. It does not have a factory alarm system. I had to replace this module because the locks and the remote that controls the Lock/Unlock function didn't work. When I replaced the module, I said to myself, I should make an access panel for it. I didn't and it was a mistake that I'm paying for now. When the lock switches stopped working, I starting tracing all the wires. The wires that sent the signal to the RKE (remote keyless entry module) was getting the 12 volts for it to send 12 volts to the door lock motor. The RKE was not sending the the required voltage to trip the motors. I disconnected the alarm module from the truck, connected a battery charger, turned on the ignition key back and forth a few times tried the door lock switches and to my surprise they started working again. I then connected the alarm control module again. Everything worked ! The next morning the same thing happened. The alarm would not unlock the doors, but get this, The original key FOB would. When I opened the door the inside door lock switches wouldn't work. I have a full manual for this vehicle so I again started PIN checks, which lead me back to the Keyless Entry Module again. Ford manual says to replace the module based on the pin output test. So I started removing the wall panels to get access to the module. I removed the module, took the cover of of it to see if anything was visably wrong and there wasn't. I spent most of last night and this morning reading post from this forum. There was several articles about a Ford (Wake-UP) module for fords that would wake-up the Lock/Unlock switches and the keyless entry module so the switches would work. Again I reinstalled the keyless entry module and again it work without any problems. At this point the Alarm module is not installed. It seems that after several hours the keyless module goes to sleep. A few minutes ago I tried the inside lock switches and again they didn't work. I then turned the key to the start position but not far enough to turn the starter, tried the interior lock/unlock switch and they again worked. The Ford wiring schematic does not show a GEM (wake-up module) for this vehicle. Is there anyone that can tell me what I'm doing wrong or what is happing during those hours of non-usage that causes the Lock/Unlock interior switches to shut down. Again the vehicle is a 1997 Ford E-150 Mark III conversion van. It has Keyless Entry but does not have factory alarm. This was verified by locking the doors with the widow open with the key FOB and then reaching in and opening the door from the inside. No lights and no horn beeping. I hope someone can help me. Thanks, Dave

hi,
from the ford manual, the power feed to the door lock switches is also
the feed for courtesy lights, power mirrors, etc. do those devices operate normally? you have checked for power at the both door lock switches (light GREEN/ YELLOW). it appears the RKE module has two power feeds.. yellow/black and BLACK/ white. those both test ok? there is no GEM nor is there anything in the wiring to disable the doorlock switches after any amount of time...other than circuit protection i.e. fuses. visually inspect wiring, in the door harnesses, checking for broken wires possibly? if wiring tests ok (from the door lock switches) why not bypass the RKE completely? add a few relays to switch the door lock motor current using the factory doorlock switches to trigger them.
mark

To start next time purchase a DEI product, Viper, Python, etc, did you access your vehicles wiring info from this website? If not do you have the vehicle info? Most vehicles require additional relays for light flash, dome, as well as doorlocks, are you familiar with or know how to install relays? This might not be the answers ur looking for but Im just trying to start with the basics, and if ur not familiar with relays I would reccommend that you take the vehicle to a shop and have it installed. 

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Chadillac

Yes, I do agree with you about buying a product that is known, but if you knew how much I spent doing this project. It's always the way, things cost more then you think it will. So, nearing the end of the project money gets tight. You try and save where you can. In answer to your questions, there are relays in the main fuse panel under the hood that control the parking lights. There are relays in the remote keyless entry module for the interior lighting and the door lock/unlock functions. The only thing I found that was a question was type of door lock system. The info that I got from this website and others state that it has a negative door lock system, when in fact it needs a positive 12 volts at the pink / YELLOW and pink/light green at the drivers kick panel to operate the door locks. But it's the keyless entry module that processes that 12 volt signal and sends it out to the lock motors. I think this is because when using the OEM key FOB, the first pulse opens only the drivers door and the second open all the doors. If you use the interior door switches a single pulse opens and closes all doors. I thought that installing an Alarm and remote start and tying in to the OEM harness would be pretty much the way to go then to rewire the whole van's interior lighting system. I'll say again this is a conversion van with all kinds of interior lighting which is tied in to the Keyless entry module and Mark III's lighting module. This stuff all works and all the wiring is buried in the walls and the ceiling panels. I got everything to work on the Alarm and the remote start it's just that the interior door lock switches quit working. I disconnected the 2300 series alarm, reset the keyless entry module by disconnecting the battery and turning the key on and off a few times, and the lock switches work again. The only thing I can think of is, I had to replace the keyless entry module. Maybe is was a later year then mine and it included this GEM sleep mode for the lock switches and my van is not wired to wake-up that section of the module. But then again this problem did not happen before I installed the Alarm and Remote start. So my feeling it's something I'm missing and something that is not covered in the alarm's installation manual. I finally found a digital instruction manual on-line and it to is the same as the one I received with the Alarm.

Thanks for your reply. The power to the door lock switches test good. Everything else in the doors work fine. When the switches are activated the 12 volts transfer to the proper wire that goes to the keyless entry module. These wires are in the drivers kick panel and go back to the module mounted behind the "B" pillar. The wires test good at the module. It seems like when I install the alarm I'm not doing something to isolate some input or output and the keyless entry module freezes and some switching component gets stuck until I unhook the alarm disconnect/reconnect power, turn the key of and on, and then the door switches work again. I'm afraid at some point I'm going to burn something out and the module won't reset itself.

might the door lock, unlock outputs of the aftermarket system latch on, and not pulse?...you should be able to check that rather easily. that may cause the RKE module to stop working, think of someone resting their hand on the doorlock switch. not familiar with the Camco product, how are the door lock outputs provided...negative pulse?

Yes. I checked the output of the after market lock outputs in the single mode operation. Both the Lock and Unlock pulse for about .5 second as there suppose to. I thought the same with the first control module, that's why I checked the second before connecting the lock/unlock wires. The alarm has a total of 7 wires to connect. Some you connect and some you don't depending on type of door lock system. For a Positive pulse in my case I connect the following. Yellow and yellow/black to constant +12 volts, White and WHITE/ Black connect to the vehicle trigger wires. Pink/light/green for unlock and pink / YELLOW for lock. These wires are access at the drivers kick panel and are the same ones that go back to the OEM keyless entry module behind the "B" pillar. There is also a smaller Blue wire that is connected through a relay for a 2 pulse unlock sequence. Thinking about it, I have not tried this option. maybe the OEM module has to see the 2-pluse for the door lock to act the way it's suppose to. It's just the interior door switches that seem not to work and it's not right away, it's only after a a few hours or overnight. I haven't been able to trace down the amount of time it takes for this to happen. It can be as little as 30 minutes or as long as overnight, both of which has happened.

definitely thinking the RKE is bad. the RKE operates door locks, interior lamps, head and parking lamps and horn, i'd still go with eliminating it...but it can be removed without ill effects (well the power door locks would need to be rewired)

I thought maybe the wire connections would help you guys             

Red-----------------------Constant +12 Volts------------Connected     
Brown---------------------Parking lights----------------Connected     
2nd Brown-----------------Higher current lights---------Not used      
RED / Black-----------------Trunk (-) 250mA---------------Not used      
Pink----------------------Siren-------------------------Connected     
Black---------------------Ground------------------------Connected     
Yellow--------------------Lock System 12 volts----------Connected     
Yellow/Black--------------Lock System 12 volts----------Connected     
White---------------------Lock System 12 volt trigger---Connected     
WHITE/ Black---------------Lock System 12 volt trigger---Connected     
Orange----------Lock System different application-------Not Used      
ORANGE / Black----Lock System different application-------Not Used      
7 Pin Harness            
Pin #1,GREEN / WHITE---------Factory Rearm----------------Not Used      
Pin #2,GREEN/ Black---------Factory Disarm---------------Not Used      
Pin #3,BLACK/ White---------Dome Light(use relay)--------Connected     
Pin #4,PURPLE / Black--------Aux (Window roll-up)---------Not Used      
Pin #5, WHITE/ black--------Aux Ch-5 (anything)----------Not Used      
Pin #6, Blue---------------Second Unlock--------Haven't used yet      
Pin #7, Orange-------------Starter Defeat relay---------Connected     
6 Pin Harness            
Pin #1, Yellow-------------Ignition 12 volt input-------Connected     
Pin #2, Brown--------------Brake 12 volt input----------Connected     
Pin #3, Black--------------Trunk pin switch-------------Not Used      
Pin #4, Gray---------------Hood pin switch--------------Connected     
Pin #5, Green--------------(-)Door pin switch-----Tried both ways     
Pin #6, Purple-------------(+)Door pin switch-----------Connected     
Heavy Gauge Remote Start Harness        
Pink-----------------------Ign #1, On and Cranking 12V-Connected     
Pink-----------------------Ign #2, 2nd Ign wire 12V when on--Yes      
Orange---------------------Accessory output------------Connected      
Purple---------------------Starter output -------------Connected      
8 Pin Harness            
Pins 1-4-------------------Alarm factory plug-in-------Connected      
Pin #5, Blue/White---------Bypass Module---------------Not Used       
Pin #6, Gray/Black---------Diesel wait to start--------Not Used       
Pin #7, PURPLE / White-------Tach wire input-------------Connected      
Plug in Harnesses        
4 Pin Black Connector-------Antenna/Shock sensor-------Connected      
4 Pin Red Connector---------Starter Module-------------Connected      
4 Pin White Connector-------Future Sensor plug-in------Not Used      
2 Pin White Connector-------Valet Switch---------------Connected     
2 Pin White Connector (lg)--Dash Mounted LED-----------Connected     
3 Pin Black Connector-------Microwave Sensor plug-in---Not Used

Well that didn't come out as I had written it. Hope you guys can figure it out. The Keyless Entry module was replaced before I installed the Alarm and worked in every way for over 6 mos. this only happens when the Alarm is hooked up.

Ok, guys and gals. I just noticed something else. When the door lock switches are not working and I try the locks by using the interior door switches the interior lights come on as if the door lock motors were working. When the on time has passed the go out ( the delay function of Ford interior lights) I think the relays in the keyless entry module is getting some kind of back current when the alarm is connected and not coming back to the (at rest) position. Is that possible? and how would it be happening? At this point I'm throwing everything out there! I again disconnected the alarm and battery, connected the battery and turn the key on and off and BANG, the locks work again.

Those pos lock wires you mentioned, do they both sit on ground?
Then 1 goes to 12volts on lock whilst the other says at ground and vice versa for unlock?
I think you might have the motor wires! In which case you should wire your unit as a "5 wire set-up".

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Howie       The wires from the interior door switches (pink / YELLOW for lock---and pink/light green) are the OEM wires I'm tied into for the lock system. These wires are a direct run back to the keyless entry module. These wires are only positive when it gets the voltage from the lock switch, one way or the other. All the info that I have and have gotten say that, if the vehicle has a keyless entry it's a negative (-) door locking system. It also says that if the vehicle DOSN'T have a keyless module it's then a 5 wire reverse polarity system. I had the Alarm hooked up as if it were a (-) seaking signal, the locks didn't work. I then probed the wires with a DVM and found they were getting a (+) 12V signal when the door switches were used. When one wire (the pink / YELLOW was getting it's (+) 12v, I didn't probe the other wire to see if it went negative. I also removed the door switches and probe them with the DVM. Center wire had 12Volts constant and nothing on the other two wires (pink / YELLOW and pink light green)they had no voltage until you pushed the button one way or the other. I don't know if these wires rested at ground through the keyless entry. I didn't check for that. When I hooked up the alarm the locks worked at first. The interior switches worked, the OEM key FOB worked and the new alarm remote worked, the doors locked when you armed the vehicle and unlocked when you disarmed the vehicle. It;s only after some time the interior switches do not work, The OEM key FOB still works. But the alarm remote arms and disarms but doesn't Lock/Unlock the doors. When you try the interior door switches, the interior lights come on but the locks don't work. This is when I disconnect the alarm system, the battery, reconnect the battery after say one minute, turn the key on/off a few times and only then do the interior door locks start to work again. This is the weirdest thing I've come across. there's a frigin gremlin in there some place.

Sorry, it was the only thing I could think of but out of interest have you though of going to the actual motor wires? That way you aren't running through the vehicle's processor.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I think I'm going to hook up the Second unlock mode for the alarm and see if that might make a difference. I've found the wire in the kick panel that unlocks only the drivers door. The directions are not clear on how this small gauge blue wire is hooked up. It's a (-)200mA output from the alarm so needs a relay to trip and supply 12 volts to the wire that operates the door lock. This is where the directions fall short. It doesn't say if this wire is the first pulse to unlock the drivers door or the second pulse to unlock all the other doors. It does, but it says one thing and then the opposite. Any one with any ideas on this? Again it's a CX2300 Carvox, Camco RS-750 alarm going in a 1997 E-150 Ford Mark III Conversion Van. Thanks to all who are trying to help me out. Didn't do much today, the weather hasn't been good here in RI. Woke up to the first snow this morning. Thanks again for your help with this.

Howie, I like the idea of not cutting out the keyless entry module and having it as a back up to open the doors. Also Mark III light control module is tied into this keyless entry module. It would be a nightmare to rewire all the lights in this van. If this alarm is a piece of junk, it's life may not be long, so at lease I would have a plan "B" I suppose I could go to the actual motor wires but that would mean designing a circuit with relays to reverse the polarity to the motors and Diodes to isolate the circuit. Space is at a premium in this vehicle both under the dash and in the kick panel. You wouldn't believe what I had to do to get back in at the Keyless Module, but this time I'm making that access panel I should have made in the beginning. There's a supplier out there that makes a PCB with relays and isolating diodes that all I would be required to do is cut, solder, tape and shrink-wrap the required wires. Do you know who makes them. I feel this is something simple like needing a diode or a relay here and there, but figuring that out is the hard part. My father told me one time, Sometime the long way is the short way around a problem. Thanks again Howie

One thing I was going to ask and I don't know if I already asked it. This Alarm (CX2300 series) has both a (-) and (+) door trigger wire. I've been told I should only hook up the positive one and not both. Any comments on this?

It's 10:30pm here I'm watching TV and I'll have some thoughts on your locking, N.B. diodes not needed and if the locking system on your alarm has 6 wires, it means it's already internally relay driven and you won't need relays or diodes. Except a second relay for the priority (second) unlock. I've done this trick on Focus and Mondeos over here when the GEM box goes doolallie!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Howie,   You are correct there are onboard relays for the locking system (hence the 6 wires coming out of the alarm control box) On this website they show a starter interrupt with a diode going across the coil. The relay the alarm manufacture supplied for this purpose does not. Should I assume the diode is on the PCB of the Alarm module or should I add a diode as seen here on this web site? I don't know if that will have any effect on my original problem. BTW, I Have not found anything that I can say "there's the problem". Yesterday I disconnected everything, re-ran the wires, relabeled them and connected everything back up to the ignition switch wires. Since the Alarm has been disconnected I have not had the problem of not having the interior door lock switches not working. About 30 hrs have passed and every time I check them, they work. I read some place that when installing a aftermarket alarm on a ford with keyless, use the OEM keyless to unlock the doors, install the aftermarket alarm and never use the OEM key FOB again. If you do, the unlock/lock functions stop working. The article did not say "WHY",. If it warms up a little, I'm going to reconnect everything, One at a time, Check and then connect another thing and check. Maybe I can isolate what is causing the problem. Dave

You won't need diodes if the the alarm has six output wires, it means they are relay driven already.
The problem with using the OEM remote after using alarm remotes (and not just Ford) is that it puts them out of "synch". Unlock with the factory fob, the doors will open and you're still alarmed! The alarm fobs don't seem to work! You have to use the factory fob AGAIN to restore the alarm's sequence.
I always tell my customers not to use the factory remotes.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Howie,   Does that apply to the starter interrupt relay as well? This starter interrupt relay is like an after thought to the whole alarm set-up. it is external with it's own relay adapter plug and 4 wires. 2 large gauge wires that are spliced into the ignition starter wire. 1 wire that picks a 12V feed and a (-) trip wire that goes to the alarm module. The example I've seen on this web site show's a starter interrupt relay with this diode across the coil connections of the relay. This is what I was questioning. Should I add a diode across the coil terminals or assume there is one on the PCB in the control module. This is totally separate from the lock issue. Dave

your door lock problem sound slike it might be fords sleep mode! after a set period of time the door lock switches fail to work, but the factory keyless will( kinda like a protection mode for prohibiting entry)does your alarm have a domelight supervision output?if not try adding a relay off your unlock wire tie pin 86 to wire that goes to your unlock(pink/green wire)while still kepping it attached to the pink/green, pin 85 to ground, pin 87 to constant 12 volts, pin 30 to your drivers door pin switch wire( blue/bk in left kick) then when you hit unlock on your remote it will pulse the domelight so the bcm thinks a oor opened and will return the lock switches to working

Sorry, yes you should, wired as follows:
Cut starter wire.
Key side to 87a
Starter side to 30
Ignition* to 86
"Trip"- correct name is GWA, or armed - output to 85
Diode (1N4004) across the coil, band side to 86
*Hot when ignition on AND whilst cranking (starting).

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hunter, Yeah, Howie and I were thinking that also, But here;s the thing. This 1997 Ford E-150 is not suppose to have one of those GEM "wake-up" modules. But, I had to replace the Keyless entry module because the locks weren't working at all. Before the alarm installation all locks were working, Key FOB and door switches. Now the only thing I can think of is the OEM keyless module I got from the salvage yard was a different year that worked OK under normal conditions but incorperated a wake-up circuit that my Van isn't wired for. Or is the dome light BLACK/ blue wire the wire that wakes this OEM keyless module up? The alarm I have, has a dome light supervision wire. It's a 200mA (-) output from the alarm. The first alarm module I had, I didn't have a signal on this wire. I tested this wire when I had this module installed and there was a signal. The manual also says to connect this wire through a relay. But it didn;t seem to make a difference. In the doors of this van there are door handle switches, so if you pull a little on the door handle of the front doors the interior lights come on. The lights are on a timer, 12 sec or something and then go out. These switches are working normally. With the alarm installed and when it goes into lock switches not working mode, the door switches will turn the lights on but not unlock the doors. Without the alarm connected under normal conditions operating the door lock switches do not come on. I don't think there suppose to, it doesn't make sense. OK, just a little more info for you guys. hey Hunter, thanks for jumping in. Dave

Howie, The way they say to wire this relay. This relay is tripped when the vehicle is armed. This disconnects poles 87a and 30 ( starter won't turn when armed. pole 86 gets constant 12V. pole 85 is the (-) trip signal that comes from the alarm. We on the same track here? So I would connect the diode across 85 and 86 with the band toward 86 with the constant 12v ??

Hi, I read my post and I see there might be some confusion as to what I'm trying to say about by door switches, There are outside door handle switches within the door, These turn on the interior lights when you try and pull the outside door handle. If you don't open the doors the lights stay on for 12 sec or so. Then there are the interior door lock switches, these operate the door locks. So to clear this up. When the alarm puts the door lock switches into "NO WORK" mode. When you try the interior door lock switches, the doors DO NOT unlock but the interior lights come on. It doesn't matter if the Doors are physically open or shut. When the Alarm is disconnected, and the door lock switches are operating normally the interior light do not come on, as there suppose to work.

Who said wire a constant to 86? Bloody not me! Read my post again!
IGNITION to 86 fool.
Wire a constant to 86 and that relay will be engaged ALL THE TIME THE ALARM IS ON. 1.3amps constant draw. Flat battery over night.
Bloody amateurs not reading properly are the cause of more posts on this site than anything else.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Howie, Your correct, the yellow from the relay socket (pin 86) is connected to the Ignition switch wire that has 12V when the "ignition is on and while cranking". Sorry ! Can't see the forest because of the trees. remember that old saying. I'll double check that again to see if I was in dream land when I was connecting that one. Anything is possible at this stage. Thanks Dave

Howie, You had me thinking. I had to put my coat on and go out and double check. Pin 86 is on the ignition wire that shows 12V while on and in cranking. But, I don't have the diode installed. Since the instructions don't show a diode across the coil and the company didn't supply or install one, In your opinion, should I put one in. It won't hurt if I do, right? Dave

Hi all, This alarm "Camco RS-750" same as Carvox CX2300 series has an option of 2-pulse door unlock sequence. It appears that it uses the same on-board relays to supply the voltage to lock and unlock the doors. But the alarm module has an extra small gauge blue wire that is wired into a relay to supply the voltage to either open the drivers door on pulse 1 or open the rest of the doors on pulse 2. I doesn't say how it's suppose to be wired to open just the drivers door or the rest of the doors. It does but tells you 2 different ways in the directions. I guess the only way to find out is program it for 2 pulse system and test the wires before I connect them. If the sun is shinning tomorrow that's one of the first things I'm going to try. Also to hook up the dome light supervision wire threw a relay to turn the dome light on and see if that solves my problem with the interior door/lock switches going dead. Thanks, Dave

The diode is a protection for the alarm's GWA wire that triggers the relay. I would always use it.
Check that blue wire, so if it goes neg pulse when you press the unlock a second time.
There is a way of doing this that picks up the motor wires rather than the trigger which will eliminate your problems and give you priority unlock.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok, Guys. I gave up on the Camco alarm and sent it back to the supplier. The guy is not too happy as he only is offering 1/2 refund and I had to eat the return shipping as well. I did a complete clean uninstall so there would be no problems with a new alarm system.
I purchased a Autopage RS-730. This has most of the options the Camco unit had but was more of a pain to program. IE; Turn the Ignition off/on three times and push and hold the valet butten from 3 to 11 times and then press the correct button on the remote for the item you want to program. With the Camco unit you could program everthing from the remote and watch the parking lights for confirmation.
Well the new Autopage is in, programed and is working., but I still have the same problem with the door locks not working after a certain time. The door locks quit working from the remote and the interior door look switches quit working after a period of time. Today a left the relay disconnected that controls the dome light supervision for the alarm. The door locks seemed like they continued to work for over 4 hours. I then isolated the output of the relay that connects to the plus 12v trigger wire with a diode, thinking that maybe a feedback was causing the a relay in the OEM keyless module to hang and that would turn or make the door lock not work from the alarms remote and the interior door switches. I tried the setup all through the day at 3 or 4 hours apart. They were fine until tonight at about 11:00pm. Same thing. Couldn't open the doors with the alarm's remote. If you check and read my previous post with the Camco-RS-750, this Autopage installation is acting the same way. unlock the truck with the OEM key Fob, Remote start the truck, open the doors and start the truck and then shut it down, disconnect the battery for 5 min and then reconnect and start the truck, all put the door lock system back in working order again. If this OEM keyless module "goes to sleep" what the hell wakes it up. The OEM "FOB" Always works every time! Is it the transmission of the signal from the OEM waking the keyless entry waking the module up. I have looked at 5 or 6 different wiring schematics for different alarms. They are all connected the same in the door lock section and connected to the same wires (pink / YELLOW for lock and pink/lt green for unlock. If I leave the dome light supervision wire not connected the door lock system seems to work fine.
The vehicle is a 1997 E-150 Mark III conversion van. factory Keyless Entry and no factory alarm. The present Alarm system is a Autopage CS-RS-730. As I said in my prior post the factory keyless entry module has been replaced and at this point pin checks have been made at the module and all are normal with the aftermarket alarm system not connected. If this OEM module needs a jolt to wake it up what wire should I be looking to pulse (-) or (+). I can send a pulse via the control module to the keyless entry module on another channel. You really have to read my previous post on the other alarm system, I was having the same problem with, to fully understand the scope of the problem. Someone must have had this problem on a Ford E-150 with Keyless entry. Thanks
    

Leave the domelight supervision unhooked...Has the domelight supervision connection been explained yet...Its late,i havent read the post yet.

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Tommy, empty your in box.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Sorry Howie...Made some room...

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!