98 jetta remote start

I am in the process of installing an Ultra-Start 1271M r/s in my 98 jetta stick shift. It has been quite a project, but looks like the end is near. Reading up on this site ahead of time has definitely helped, but I am having few issues:

1) Initially could not get the system to enter program mode. It would do tach learn without a hitch, but would not enter program mode until I accidentally blew my brake fuse while going through testing my connections. I connected my brake switch input from my remote starter to the RED / yellow wire at the brake switch as listed on the wiring diagram from this site. Does anyone know if the wiring diagram incorrect?

2) There is no park brake wire listed on the diagram. I've found a couple of posts that say to tap into wire at the parking brake, but I'm not sure which of the 2 to go with. How do i test which one I want?

3) I'm not sure how to go about bypassing the clutch. I found a post where someone said to use a relay to bypass at the clutch, but they were referring to installing a non-manual transmission safe starter on a manual transmission. Would this also be the best way for my system

Thanks in advance

thesandman wrote:

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1) Initially could not get the system to enter program mode. It would do tach learn without a hitch, but would not enter program mode until I accidentally blew my brake fuse while going through testing my connections. I connected my brake switch input from my remote starter to the RED / yellow wire at the brake switch as listed on the wiring diagram from this site. Does anyone know if the wiring diagram incorrect?

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Do you not have a multimeter to test the wires that you are tapping into ? Do not assume that the information is right when it's given to you.Its up to the installer to verify the proper wires to ensure no damage to the vehicle.

thesandman wrote:

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2) There is no park brake wire listed on the diagram. I've found a couple of posts that say to tap into wire at the parking brake, but I'm not sure which of the 2 to go with. How do i test which one I want?

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I think relay # 173 has the park brake wire in it. Use your tester to verify which pin it is. It's one of the smaller pins in the relay.

thesandman wrote:

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3) I'm not sure how to go about bypassing the clutch. I found a post where someone said to use a relay to bypass at the clutch, but they were referring to installing a non-manual transmission safe starter on a manual transmission. Would this also be the best way for my system

Thanks in advance

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(+) Clutch bypass for this vehicle, you will need to use a relay activated from the starter on the remote start to send a (+) signal to the wire at the clutch. It's easy to access since the clutch switch is in plain sight on this vehicle.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Thanks for the reply Jeff. I went through with the multimeter and found that the RED / yellow was constant +12V and the adjacent RED / black was the one switched by the brake pedal. Soldered to that one and can still get into program mode so am assuming that it is now correct.

I had already had taken apart the enclosure to the parking brake so went with that connection. Was surprised to see that it is -12V. Soldered to the wire that was switched off and on by the park brake, so should be good on that front too.

I will leave the clutch bypass for next weekend. I already used a relay for the trunk- will have to get another one for this weekend. I live pretty much in the middle of no-where. Any particular online store you guys recommend?

All VW/Audis have RED / black as the brake SWITCHED OUTPUT as Jeff says, read my by-line.
The parking brake as distinct from the foot brake should have 1 wire at the switch, brown primary with a second colour, this can also be picked up at the rear of the gauges.
All parking brakes read 12v+ when the ignition is on (feedback from the gauge warning light).
They go to ground as soon as you pull up the lever. The R/S is "looking" to see a ground there as a safety enable.
If there were two wires at the switch the second would be plain brown and is the ground side.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

You need a manual transmission reservation system, the clutch by-pass would enable it to start in gear...not very clever.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Howie, the system I have (ultra-start 1271M) is a manual transmission reservation mode system. Am I OK in bypassing the clutch or should I be going about it another way?

So at this point, things are looking really good. The entire system works minus 2 issues.

1) The system goes into reservation mode without a hitch, but to start the system I have to stay in the car and press the clutch in to start. This weekend I will install a relay to bypass the clutch unless I should be going about this differently.

2) When the system remote starts (with me holding in the clutch), the alarm goes off. I have seen a post by Howie in the past saying that the ignition wire to factory alarm must be "open", wired by relay, while vehicle is running. Being a 12 year old car in a low crime area, I am not too worried about the alarm and figure it would be easier to bypass the alarm altogether. I found this link showing how to bypass the alarm by disconnecting the alarm module and jumping two wires, but when I tried this, there was not enough slack in the wire to work with. Anyone have any ideas?

By-pass the clutch, I'm assuming you've already by-passed the factory immobiliser, you would have to break the ignition feed to the comfort/alarm module adjacent to the steering column.
Either that or cut the Siren, ultrasonic and indicator leads.
The trunk and hood triggers where they join the factory alarm should also be block dioded see down loads, DEI 1076 diagramme, to prevent sleep circuit wake-up triggering your alarm every hour or so.
I just looked at the diagramme above showing how to by-pass the alarm, doesn't apply to yours, you have a Mk lV Golf/Jetta, that shows a Mark lll.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

OK, bypassed clutch and works great except alarm goes off unless I set it it unlock doors when car remote starts. Is there just one wire I can cut from the ignition to the alarm so that the alarm is not activated when it starts or do I have to disconnect the alarm altogether like in the description above. (in the US, the 98 jetta is still a MK3 model and from what I've read, VW did not have an immobilizer in this model year for the US version, only European)

thesandman wrote:

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OK, bypassed clutch and works great except alarm goes off unless I set it it unlock doors when car remote starts. Is there just one wire I can cut from the ignition to the alarm so that the alarm is not activated when it starts or do I have to disconnect the alarm altogether like in the description above. (in the US, the 98 jetta is still a MK3 model and from what I've read, VW did not have an immobilizer in this model year for the US version, only European)

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Actually, scratch that thought, because according to Howie I would still have to deal with the sleep cycle triggering from the I would still have to deal with the trunk and hood triggers. I am going to try and bypass the alarm altogether since it seems to be much easier

No use that post where you showed the factory alarm wiring diagramme. You can pick up your door trunk and hood triggers from there in fact apart from tach and parking brake it gives you all your connections including lock and comfort close and unlock. Also cut the yellow/black to knock out the factory siren.
That diagramme is wrong in one place, where it shows the ignition switch, it's showing a second start as black when in fact that's ignition 1.
Also not shown there are 2nd ignition, I believe BLACK / YELLOW and ACC, BROWN / red.
Pull the plug(s) to get at everything.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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No use that post where you showed the factory alarm wiring diagramme. You can pick up your door trunk and hood triggers from there in fact apart from tach and parking brake it gives you all your connections including lock and comfort close and unlock. Also cut the yellow/black to knock out the factory siren.
That diagramme is wrong in one place, where it shows the ignition switch, it's showing a second start as black when in fact that's ignition 1.
Also not shown there are 2nd ignition, I believe BLACK / YELLOW and ACC, BROWN / red.
Pull the plug(s) to get at everything.

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Thanks for the reply Howie. Turns out that I can program the alarm to unlock the doors just before starting and then lock the doors again after it starts. Tried it out and it did not set off the alarm. Not perfect, but much easier :) Thanks for all your help. Made for a fun, though difficult project.