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fog light, alarm, fuse box

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=124391
Printed Date: May 09, 2025 at 2:06 PM


Topic: fog light, alarm, fuse box

Posted By: italian_virus
Subject: fog light, alarm, fuse box
Date Posted: November 10, 2010 at 11:13 PM

Hello gentlemen,

im currently wiring up a set of after-market fog lights on my 95 civic. An issue that arose was when i had to wire my fog lights into my fuse box.
Attached is a picture of my fuse box and its layout.
posted_image

It is stated that during the installation of the fog lights you are to wire them to Slot D on the picture.

Now i already have a plug in there and that is for my car alarm.

If you look on the picture you will see an index labeled ;
Option Connectors Index

It gives you all the specifications.

The question i have is... if i move my alarm to lets say slot A for example, would it effect my alarms functionality? Because with that specific slot D it says ;
Hot with light switch, in the HEAD or in PARK.

as apposed to slot A;

Hot at all times


Thanks an advance for any help !!!



Replies:

Posted By: italian_virus
Date Posted: November 10, 2010 at 11:17 PM
sorry i forgot to ask..

or another option, is can i just add the wire to that slot?





Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: November 11, 2010 at 12:06 AM
Is that under dash?

Why go there? Not that fog lights are a big deal, but I tend to use relays for all lights.
Hence battery - fuse - relay - light(s) as direct and short as possible.

But if there is pre-existing wiring for the lights, ok....
(My car is old. Most former hi-current carrying wires have now become mere signal wires.)




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 11, 2010 at 3:17 AM
Oh just use an illuminated switch, feed it off a low beam headlight circuit from the steering column loom to 86, ground to 85,20amp fused to 86 and output from 30.
Feed the output to a second relay at 87, ground to 85, ignition to 86 and lights output from 30.
This will give you LEGAL lights and an auto shutdown when you turn off the ignition. The second relay is optional.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: italian_virus
Date Posted: November 11, 2010 at 12:01 PM
Well what im trying to do is have a separate switch for my fog lights, so i can have the ability to turn them on & off whenever i please without it effecting my HID's




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 11, 2010 at 12:05 PM
So that's what we both suggested. Wiring the fog lights separately is:
a) Illegal in many countries, they can't bew legally used in Europe without the low beam headlights.
b) The extra relay means you can't leave them on.
Q. wth has this to do with DRLs.


-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: italian_virus
Date Posted: November 11, 2010 at 12:13 PM
howie ll wrote:

Oh just use an illuminated switch, feed it off a low beam headlight circuit from the steering column loom to 86, ground to 85,20amp fused to 86 and output from 30.
Feed the output to a second relay at 87, ground to 85, ignition to 86 and lights output from 30.
This will give you LEGAL lights and an auto shutdown when you turn off the ignition. The second relay is optional.



Here is a picture of my setup
posted_image

what i was thinking was..
what if

on the relay i leave everything as is
the Switched Out wire to my fog lights which are in parallel
the Coil out is grounded
the Switched in is a 15A fuse connected to the +ve on the battery
& the Coil in is run to the switch

--

and on my push button switch in the car..
i have one connection grounded
the other connection is connected to the switch( Coil In) & i was thinking of running a separate wire from my battery with a 15A fuse in line directly to the switch so it has power.

so every time i push the button in, it has power..

does that sound right? or am i missing something?





Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: November 11, 2010 at 12:14 PM

My guess would be that that is how the alarm controls your parking lights. 

The first thing I would do is simply unplug the D connector and see if the alarm keeps working.  My guess with what you have given here is that it will, but it will no longer flash the parking lights.

If that is the case you could then connect both harnesses together and power them both off of "D".  This would allow you to use both options and to have both options installed per manufacturers recomendation.  it sounds like, though, that if you install it this way then the fogs will only kick on with the parking lights.



-------------
Kevin Pierson




Posted By: italian_virus
Date Posted: November 11, 2010 at 12:26 PM
KPierson wrote:

My guess would be that that is how the alarm controls your parking lights. 

The first thing I would do is simply unplug the D connector and see if the alarm keeps working.  My guess with what you have given here is that it will, but it will no longer flash the parking lights.

If that is the case you could then connect both harnesses together and power them both off of "D".  This would allow you to use both options and to have both options installed per manufacturers recomendation.  it sounds like, though, that if you install it this way then the fogs will only kick on with the parking lights.




But if i was to add to connection D.. wouldnt i have to upgrade the fuse itself? because now it has a higher load on it




Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: November 11, 2010 at 12:34 PM

According to your diagram above you will be adding roughly 160mA to connector D - I think you'll be OK.

Basically, what you are doing, is taking the output that is ON when your parking lights are on and running it through a switch.  The switch then controls a low current relay.

The current for your fog lights will be provided through connector B.



-------------
Kevin Pierson




Posted By: italian_virus
Date Posted: November 11, 2010 at 1:01 PM
alright with that being said, would the result differ if was to run a wire with a fuse directly from the battery to the switch?

through connector B?, ive tried that and no luck ;s




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 11, 2010 at 1:13 PM
Nothing wrong with your last post except for the legal issues and if you give it a constant feed and forget to turn off when you leave the car?

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: italian_virus
Date Posted: November 11, 2010 at 2:06 PM
howie ll wrote:

Nothing wrong with your last post except for the legal issues and if you give it a constant feed and forget to turn off when you leave the car?


good point but your forgetting they are fog lights
ill know if i turn them off or on, cause they will either be off or on lol

im gonna try the first two ways and see what the outcome is
then ill try a direct line




Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: November 11, 2010 at 5:20 PM
How timely - Last week I finally fitted a headlight reminder. It only took a $1.15 buzzer, a $0.05c diode (so it only sounds when the driver's door opens), and about 30 years.


howie ll wrote:

Wiring the fog lights separately is.... Illegal in many countries, they can't bew legally used in Europe without the low beam headlights.

I'm sure that is now the case here too, but it used to be illegal to have fog lights AND beams on simultaneously.
But that was in ye olde days when fog lights were used to see "under" the fog. Hence high-mounted low or high beams were undesirable.
Amazing how fashion and bling can impact regulations.
(I stuck to the first principles of gambling - my fog lights were rally-class high beams.)


FWIW - a statistical qualification: The aforementioned 30 year lead time actually records as 5 years. I have only had my current (and 12V) vehicle 10 years, and I also fitted a switch to the passenger door for the dome-light (it is a 2-door ute with only the agricultural basics), hence averaging to 5 years per job.
I just wanted to clarify that to show that in reality I am 600% more efficient than in my thoughts and dreams.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 11, 2010 at 5:23 PM
So buy a Jap car not a truck, then it's built in, having said that my last Galant hasn't been as reliable (electrics wise) as 2 I had in the late 80s

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: November 11, 2010 at 6:16 PM
Another smart crack like that I'll smack your teeth out.
Well, just one - and do us both a favour!
You can reciprocate with my problem tooth.
(Apols to readers - that's a healthy in-joke between 2 sufferers.)


But LOL, it is Jap - a 1965 ute variant of their passenger car.
Of course typical Jap - they may not have fitted the passenger switch, but the provision is there. I just got a switch from a sedan.
The Japs are good with such compatibility. The first job was to fill its unused AM radio cavity. It now has an LSD from their 1985 4WD (a straight banjo swap!) and it has been modernised with a 5 speed gearbox and - of course! - a later alternator with inbuilt regulator and over 3x the output. All very simple.    
It's the trivial thinks that take time... (ie, passenger comforts! Remember - its a 2-door, hence IMO a GT or race car and not intended for panicky passengers.)




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 11, 2010 at 6:28 PM
I wish; bloody cameras everywhere, 70mph limits, +average speed cameras as well, GPS radar spotter on, gives me exact speed so cruise control on and no more than 78 (limit +10% +or- 1mph. Except Scotland where it's exactly 70 or the jock mustards will do you on the spot.
Every cop car (especially the unmarked M5s and Audi RS) has an ANPR* camera, ready to stop you with your life story. Orwell could never have imagined it. And this guy wants to run his fog lights any time.
*Automatic Number Plate Recognition camera. In the UK, your annual road test, road tax and insurance get automatically uploaded when you renew them. They know if you don't.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: November 11, 2010 at 7:00 PM
70mph? We have 8 hours drive to out nearest capital city.
We drive 2 days (over 1,500km) to get to our holiday destination in the next state.
We have a 100kph limit (61mph) and YOU complain? Some states and freeways have 110kph (69mph).
And they finally restricted the unrestricted speed limit south of Darwin.
We get booked for anything over the limit, but they deduct 3kph from the photographic traps. Wow, 3 in 100 - that is tighter than our ADRs (vehicle design rules).

I have seen the auto-plate recognition system in action. VERY effective - instant pullover for any outstanding infringement. We now have to put our own legit plates on any vehicles we steel!

We have it all - except for the banned radar detectors, and annual vehicle checking (in this state).

The other thing we excel at avoiding is driver education.


posted_image
(THAT is a SAFETY sign... LOL!!!)





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