Hi I have a ca 425/545. Today when I entered my car I noticed a 30 amp fuse lying on the ground. Have no idea where it came from. I think it came from the Code Alarm, since I'm now having trouble with it. The remote no longer works and the powers locks keep locking and unlocking on there own when the key is in the ignition and the door is open
Any Idea where the 30 amp fuse goes? I took a look in the fuse box but it didn't look like it could fit anywhere. I have a 99 Nissan Altima.
I posted here since I believe it's related to the problems I'm having with the Code Alarm
The fuse would be on the wiring going to the remote start/alarm brain, not in the car's fuse box.
The Ca425 brain was especially big, I'd say maybe 5 by 7 inches or so, so it's likely going to be in plain view under the dash. It would have been difficult for the installer to hide.
In good light, lay on your back and look up under the dash. You should see about six heavy-gauge wires going from the steering column (they connect to the wires coming from your car's ignition switch) to the main brain of the alarm......I'd say most likely the brain will be zip-tied up above where your left foot would be if you're sitting in the car.
That unit has at least two 30-amp fuses in its wiring harness, so you should be able to see the one still-in-place fuse to use as an example.
When you do finally find the little white fuse holder in the wiring harness, you can go ahead and reinsert the fuse you found on the floor.....but do make a quick visual inspection for black marks, melted wires, melted fuse holder, and so forth.
Hopefully the fuse just wasn't pushed in all the way and that's why it fell out, but it's also possible that the circuit was overloaded, the fuse holder got too hot, and that's why the fuse fell out.
Thanks, I found the wires you were talking about. Was able to push the fuse in. I had to reprogram the remote though.
Chris Luongo wrote:
Hopefully the fuse just wasn't pushed in all the way and that's why it fell out...
x2!! (Or got pulled or knocked out.)
My concern is a
loose fuse holder.
That leads to heat (a poor connection that gets worse.)
And seeing how hot a 40A fuselink got despite its bigger plastic and 9mm spade lugs, I reckon a 6mm (1/4") spade 30A ATS fuse etc would get much hotter.
The melting 40A flink was supposed to be flame proof, but I wonder....
If the 30A fuse pushed back in
solidly, cool. But maybe check now and again.
FYI - a good periodic check with any current carrying switch, wire or connector is a
temperature feel.
But be warned, fuses are often warm - and can be HOT in normal (but extreme) operation.
But feel cautiously with fast
sampling before lengthy contact, and have some ice or cold water handy.
I sometimes even feel my ground cables & starter, alternator, battery etc cables for piece of mind.
IMO: I prefer risking a finger or hand burn to a vehicle burning.