remote start, factory remote, 08 accord?

Hello everyone, just one of my curiosity does anyone here know how to get the factory remote to start an aftermarket starter? My car is a 2008 Honda Accord with Viper 5902 and Xpresskit DBALL..Your car doesn't have to be a Honda anything is fine. I just want to know how you hook it up and your setting. Thanks again everyone. Ohh yeah here is a video show that it is possible to get it work. viper remote start with factory remote

You can use the WHITE/ blue trigger activation input and invert the signal of the actuator motor wires via a relay, unless there's a factory upgrade that could do the trick.

So after searching around on the net I found that the Avital 4003 will do what I was looking for, remote start with the OEM remote. Found an installation for it and it look like its almost like a regular alarm/starter...

Hey t%t tech thanks for the replied. You mentioned the WHITE/ blue (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT
H1/11 wire from the 5902. I guess just hook that wire up to the door lock wire and it should work?

Before you jump all into this project you need to make sure that the keyless entry still works with the key on and the motor running.  It is common for the car being able to activate the remote start, but once the car is running, you can not kill it nor unlock the doors.  Start the car with the key and see if you can unlock the doors with the remote.

1. Read the Viper's install guide and see if it has a WHITE/ blue (negative) and/or WHITE/ red (positive) Activation input.

Typically, you'd connect your car's Lock Motor wire (the wire that goes to the actuators inside the doors) to the WHITE/ red positive Activation Input, and set the Viper's programming for three pulses.

If you don't have the WHITE/ red, but only have the WHITE/ blue, you'd use a relay to convert the Honda's positive Lock Motor wire to a negative signal, then connect the relay's output to the Viper's WHITE/ blue.

2. However, all of this is probably pointless in your case. Honda remotes don't work with the engine running. You could remote start the car.....but then you'd be stuck inserting the key in the door and turning it to let yourself in.

The other issue is the poor remote range most OEM cars have.

In theory it isn't hard to do and many different alarms can be used, but in practice it typically doesn't provide good enough results to abandon a long range aftermarket remote.

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Kevin Pierson

Chris Luongo wrote:

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2. However, all of this is probably pointless in your case. Honda remotes don't work with the engine running. You could remote start the car.....but then you'd be stuck inserting the key in the door and turning it to let yourself in.

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x2.

Unless you dont walk out to the car until the engine is done running.

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The Avital 4003 has an activation input that can be changed from positive to negative and also 1,2 or 3 pulses. They are easy to install, but like stated you need to use a key to get in on a Honda. On select 40bit Toyotas you can use a Can module from Idatalink that will still allow the remotes to work. Most American cars have remotes that still work with the motor running, except the new Equinox, Cruze and Camaro. Most all Nissan's still work too.

Personally i prefer using a one button RS to do the job if the remotes don't work. Both DEI and Avox have an output that allows you to use the RS remote to unlock the doors when the RS is on.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

doesn't the 5902 do everything? Just forget the oem thing and go aftermarket.

Now now, re-read the very first line....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Hey everyone thanks for your inputs.. I just finish installed the viper 5902/DBALL everything works great..i didn't bother with the oem remote start..I also run into another problem is that my headlights doesn't turn off when the remote start time is over. I have Auto Headlights
Here is my connections.
DBALL Car
IMMO Data - Orange Lt.Green
CAN High - Tan/Black Pink
CAN Low - Tan Blue
Ignition input - Pink Yellow
Alarm
Heavy Gauge H3 10 Pin Harness
    Pink - Ignition Input/Output Blue
    RED / White - Flex Relay White
    Orange - 1st Accessory Orange
    Violet - Starter Yellow - car side
    Green - Starter Yellow - key side
    Red - Ignition Input 1 White - Constant 12V
    Pink/white - 2nd Accessory Red - 2nd Accessory
    RED / Black White - Constant 12V
Primary H1 12 Pin Harness      
    Red - Constants 12V Input White - Constant 12V
    Brown - Siren Siren
    Black - Ground chassis
    White - Parking Light Output Gray - Parking Light (-)
Here is an interesting point in DBall Instruction its say connect the rearm to parking light for Auto Headlights Vehicle
So I connected the H2/2 Lt.GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA Factory Alarm Arm Output to the Parking Light wire. I tested it without connect it to the vehicle parking light wire. I noticed that if I DON'T connect the wire and when I pressed the Start bottom to disengage the remote start it doesn't turn off the headlight. Now when I connected the wire to the parking light and pressed the Start bottom to disengage the Remote Start it turned off the headlight. My Question is why doesn't it turn off the headlight when the remote start time is over auto shut down? Thanks again everyone.

The factory arm output wire should go to the drivers door pin wire. This way it thinks the door opend once and starts the timed autolight sequence...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Hey Mike Thanks for the replied but wouldn't that make the alarm think that someone is open the door and set off the alarm?

OK so after I hooked up the Driver Door Pin to the - factory output I have to press Lock twice to get the Door lock to lock.. Is there any feature in the alarm that I have to set to get it to work? Thank.

Someone help me please everything is done except for the auto headlights.

auto headlights turn off after 1 minute.

I know this for a fact because i have the 09 accord, and did a full writeup for it in downloads.

you have 2 options:

1: pulse your door pin and it will turn off the headlights.
2: pulse ground (rearm wire make sure you place a diode on this line just incase) which is RED (-) headlight switch in a < size=1 face=Helvetica>< size=1 face=Helvetica>BLACK/ white 12 pin plug, pin 9

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Alrite thanks everyone..I tap it to the red wire with a diode and the headlight turned off after 1 min or so..but for some odd reason when I remote start it quickly unlock and lock back again.hmm I'm wondering if it the RED wire that trigger it..I think I can live with it as long as the thieves are not smart enough and monitor my door locks when I remote the car and open the door quickly enough before it start locking again..

Hello again everyone..I started a thread here last time about a 2008 Honda Accord with a Viper 5902 and a Xpresskit DB-All by D2D. Everything works good until today. I installed this setup for my sister car. I don't know what she did but now she CAN'T start the car with the KEY anymore, it started but immediately shut down afterward. Remote Start works, so the only way to start the car now is with Remote Start then put the Key in then it won't shut off. Please everyone if you experience this problem before please give me advise on the problem/s so I can get it back to normal again. Thank you all for you time.

Never had this problem but it sounds like the DB-ALL is on all the time.  Check the Vipers' D2D jumpers are set to External.  Verify the D2D cable is fully seated at both ends.  Check the DB-ALL Pink Ignition wire connection.  Try a DB-ALL reset by re-programming it.

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Soldering is fun!

haven't used a dball yet buti t sounds as though you grounded the status input on the dball possibly?

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A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

alrite everyone so I fixed the problem. Nothing wrong with my wiring but some how the dball module manage to erase my immobilizer module to the ECU so the car can't detect the key. I got it to register the immobilizer back and everything is working fine now. I'm not too sure if I would recommend this module to anyone. But thanks again everyone.

08accord wrote:

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alrite everyone so I fixed the problem. Nothing wrong with my wiring but some how the dball module manage to erase my immobilizer module to the ECU so the car can't detect the key. I got it to register the immobilizer back and everything is working fine now. I'm not too sure if I would recommend this module to anyone. But thanks again everyone.

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doubt it was the module....

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A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

x2 highly doubt the dball erased the ecms immobilizer code.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert