urgent, compustar 2w8000fmr

URGENT!!

Compustar 2W8000FMR (3000)

1 Problem + me trying to fix has resulted in a total of 3 problems which I believe all related to alarm now.

2 days ago I accidentally left my dome light on and drained the battery. I jump started the car and that very day the remote start feature has stopped working.

[PROBLEM #1]

It would do EVERYTHING like it normally would when it remote starts however the starter does not spin. It goes thru all the normal phases and in fact it seems to THINK that the car is running as if you press the brake pedal, the car ignition turns off and the doors unlock. If you have remote start, if you press the button to normally turn off the remote started car, it will turn off the ignition, and beep twice just like it normally does.

Everything else worked perfectly fine (can arm, un-arm, etc as normal. just the remote start stopped working). Nothing was done to the car, just the battery was drained (it's drained before and in the 3 years I've had this alarm, never had this issue)

I then spent hours on the internet diagnosing what it could be and came to a few conclusions,

1. Needed to reprogram remote so I did the routine to re-program (key acc. on/off 5 times and press "1" button). Tried it and it didn't fix it.
2. Then said to re-learn tach. So I did that. (PITA because of all the wires zipped tied in the way; took over 20 mins to remove them and get to the CPU) I started the car, waited for it to idle down (1000rpm) and pressed the button on the CPU and the horn BEEPED 1 time to indicate it recorded correctly.

Tried it and still not working.

[PROBLEM #2]

I gave up and put car back together, and drove home. IMMEDIATELY I noticed the car is idling very high (2000rpm).. In fact the moment you press the gas, the car IMMEDIATELY now revs to 2,500rpm and stays there. When you remove your foot from gas and the car is coasting, it speeds up to match to the tach is in the 2000-2,500 range and braking is clearly effected. It seems to only be high the moment you touch the gas pedal. Put it into reverse and try to idle (coast obviously moves on it own) but it backs up quite fast and have to hold the brake down to keep it under control.

All this HAS to do with the alarm.. The (2) problem HAS to be something I did, touched under the dash but what????? Did the Re-learn tach do it?

The is NO warranty on this alarm because the stupid company (A&B SOUND) went out of business 1 YEAR after I had them install it (and pay $50 for 3 extra years). Installers have told me in the past they wouldn't touch the alarm because they don't know how it was wired (apparently each shop wires it uniquely) and would only touch it (back then when I had another problem) only if I paid for a new alarm and had them install it.

Check the physical connection at the tach wire itself.

Thank you.

What would I look for? It's EXTREMELY (nearly impossible) to see anything on the CM3000. In fact I could only get 1 finger around it and feel for the button on the top so I really can't check anything. Heck, I even tried a tiny inspection mirror but cant even get it in there.

Would that cause BOTH problems? (High rev, nonworking remote start? thank you SO much!

btw: I also tried the reservation mode, in which you must

-Start your car
-take your foot off the brake
-lift up the e-brake
-take the key out of the cylinder (car will remain ON)
-open the door, get out of the car
-close the door (car will shut off, car will arm, remote will play a tone (or vibrate)

HOWEVER that does not make any sense (hint: did NOT work).

If you have your car started with the key, you can't just remove the key it's locked. You have to turn the ignition to OFF in order to remove the key so how can this be correct??

You guessed it, I start the car, put the car in neutral, parking brake is on the highest part. But I can't remove the key. I turn the ignition OFF and then I can remove the key.

And also, why do you HAVE to get OUT of the car when you perform these steps? Why can't you just sit in the car, open the door and close it? I don't particularly think it's a good idea to have a car idling with no driver with only the car in neutral. What if the car accidentally went into gear (automatic) and here you have an out of control driving car..

Ignore the last part about the reservation mode, I didn't realize it was a MANUAL only feature; I have an automatic :-)

"All this HAS to do with the alarm"   Sounds like something is wrong with the car (looking at problem 2). with them kinda problems with the car, i wouldnt look at it either. Take everything off and have someone inspect your car then reinstall it.

Problem one probably has something to do with a fuse in the satillete relay.

Most systems dont reset when the battery dies.

The thing is that the moment I pressed the black button, it's now wanting to coast at 2,500 rpm. It's fine at idle, but when you press the car the car wants to increase speed to match 2000-2500 rpm.

You don't notice it unless you touch the gas.

Seems to me you have an engine management problem, nothing to do with the alarm.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

ditto to Howies comment

In fact straight to the dealership. Oh and don,t mention the alarm. You have more than one problem.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Did you do anything else under the hood while you were jumping the car or messing with the alarm?  Sounds like it could be a mass air flow sensor issue.

Do you know where the alarm is connected to the tach signal?  That would help quite a bit. 

-------------
Kevin Pierson

Update: Case of non-working Remote Start - FIXED.

Called up a local Installer (Staub Electronics, in Richmond BC, Canada) and they were VERY helpful and knew exactly what it was the moment I explained the symptoms.

He explained that the alarm went into a default mode to a 99 second start delay timer, which is used for diesels (Option 8)

I changed it to OFF and it now remote starts without any problems.

While the rev still persists, it does seem that its completely coincidental and is not related to the alarm.

The car is perfectly fine (idles at 1000rpm). But the moment you touch the gas it immediately starts right to the 2200-2500 mark and while driving that means you coast at 60km with your foot off the brake.

I called a mechanic and over the phone, he had me gun the pedal and it idles right down to 1000 again. Touch the gas and it jumps to 2200-2500. Gun it (idling) and it drops immediately back down.. Something sticking..

Sorry if I missed it (i skimmed) but do you mention what make/model/year of the car in question?

It's a 1992 Camaro Z28. 5.7L, V8, auto.
2W8000FMR
CM3000 brain

Not a Delco reset issue (power lost; needs to reset idle-air & speed etc)?

IAC shouldn't hunt that high after a power fail, thats kind of dangerous... Although I've seen worse on some Fords but with bad parts.

I would guess either a failing or sticking IAC. 1000rpm is kind of high of an idle to begin with, you can start by checking the throttle body for some buildup. Pull the induction tube off and see if the TB is all gummed up. If the engine is racing that high like that it has to be getting extra air from somewhere.

Does this happen on warm engine, worse on cold engine?